Highlights From Watches & Wonders 2025

This year at Watches and Wonders Geneva – the watchmaking industry's flagship event – the fair welcomes 60 participating brands in the halls of the Palexpo center for a week-long affair that keeps every collector and watch enthusiast on the edge of their seats. Read along to discover the highlights of Watches & Wonders 2025.

 

If you missed our coverage of the key launches from Rolex and Patek Philippe, you can catch up here.

CARTIER

The Cartier Tank à Guichets, originally created in 1928, gets a revival this year in three different metals in the original dial layout, and one in platinum limited to 200 pieces with a sideways design. This has already prompted collectors to nickname the limited edition version as the “Tank à Guichets Oblique” or the “Driver-style Tank à Guichets”. For those of you paying close attention to the dial, the timepiece seems to make more sense as a watch worn on the right wrist. All models feature the manual-wound 9755 MC calibre movement with jumping hours and trailing minutes.

The Cartier Tank Louis Cartier receives an updated larger case size, measuring 38.1mm high by 27.75mm wide and 8.18mm thick, to allow for the addition of the automatic caliber 1899 MC. The new Cartier Tank LC is available in rose and yellow gold.
 

“Tressage” is the French word for braiding, and is the name of Cartier's new jewellery collection characterized by sculptural design. Four versions are being released, all featuring a rectangular case and twisting sides with various combinations of gold and gems.

The Panthère collection receives two new bangle-watch models being added to Cartier's offering, with the highlight piece being the high-jewelry version in white gold snow-set with 1,103 brilliant-cut diamonds totalling 11.9 ct. Emerald stones are being used for the eyes of the panther, while onyx is used for the nose and the black spots on the animal's fur.

 

The Panthère de Cartier collection sees a creative interpretation of the model in an animal-inspired jewelry iteration mixing a zebra and tiger print and motifs in black and golden-brown lacquer, pavé-set diamonds, and orange and yellow spessartites.

VACHERON CONSTANTIN

With important anniversaries come important watches, and Vacheron Constantin did not disappoint this year with the release of the Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Solaria Ultra Grand Complication – La Première. It's a long name for a watch, but this record-breaking timepiece's list of complications is even longer. Here is a short summary of what this remarkable timepiece has to offer: 41 watchmaking complications, 5 rare astronomical complications, 13 patent applications filed, 8 years of development, a new caliber 3655 with 1521 components. One of the most amazing aspect of this watch, is that all of these complications and technical innovations were fitted inside a very wearable 45mm white gold case. 

The brand is no stranger to world records. In 2015, Vacheron Constantin created the most complicated watch in the world with the reference 57260. They then one-upped themselves last year during Watches & Wonders by releasing the Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers “Berkley Grand Complication”. In 2025, with the release of the Les Cabinotiers Solaria Ultra Grand Complication, Vacheron Constantin takes the title for the most complicated wristwatch in the world, a feat that the Maison will hold for quite some time we're guessing.

To celebrate their 270th anniversary, Vacheron Constantin unveils a trio of limited edition “Openface” Traditionnelle models, celebrating openworked dials and retrograde date displays; the Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Retrograde Date Openface, the Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface, and the Traditionnelle Complete Calendar Openface. Each of these models will be produced in a 370-piece limited series encased in platinum. These limited editions feature openworked dials with a signature guilloché pattern inspired by the outline of the Maltese cross, Vacheron Constantin’s emblem since 1880. The transparent sapphire crystal caseback reveals the “côte unique” finishing on the bridges, a traditional decoration that Vacheron Constantin rediscovered in 2021 when reproducing the Historiques American 1921 timepiece. The movement also features a discreet 270th anniversary emblem engraved on it.

 

As part of their anniversary celebration, the Maison is also unveiling the Traditionnelle Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar with a new manufacture caliber 2162 QP/270 combining a peripheral rotor for automatic winding, a tourbillon and perpetual calendar complication. As with other anniversary pieces in the collection, you will find the same anniversary elements on the dial and movement. This will be a limited edition of 127 pieces, all individually numbered.

 

Continuing the tour of Vacheron Constantin's anniversary pieces, the Traditionnelle collection also features two manual-wound timepieces aimed at female collectors with the Traditionnelle Moon Phase ref. 83570/000R-H060 and Traditionnelle Manual-Winding ref. 1405T/000R-H061, both in pink gold cases. The two models also feature Mother-of-Pearl dials with the special 270th anniversary decor and will be limited to 270 individually numbered pieces.

Last but not least in the Traditionnelle collection – and this one might be a popular release – is the simple but very well-balanced Traditionnelle Manual-Winding in a 38mm case. Available in either platinum or pink gold – each limited to 370 pieces – these models carry the manufacture Calibre 4400 AS/270 offering a generous 65 hours of power reserve, and enhanced by the “côte unique” finish and special anniversary emblem engraving.

Onto the Patrimony collection where we see the release of two special 270th anniversary models in the form of the Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Moon Phase Retrograde Date and the Patrimony Self-Winding, available either in white or pink gold. All 4 versions come with a silver-toned dial featuring the anniversary decor, just as the calibers powering the watches will feature the special finish and emblem engraving found in all the other pieces of Vacheron Constantin's 270th collection.

 

Ending our round-up of Vacheron Constantin's lineup of new releases, we make our way back into the Maison's Les Cabinotiers workshop to see the unveiling of three unique pieces paying homage to the Tour de l’Île, an historic Geneva landmark where Vacheron Constantin once installed its workshops. As a quick reminder, Les Cabinotiers is Vacheron Constantin's special department composed of highly skilled craftmen (watchmakers, engravers, enamellers, jewellers, lapidaries, etc.), and dedicated to the creation of extraordinary one-of-a-kind timepieces. This trio of “Piece Uniques” captures the spirit of Geneva, and each of the three Tribute to the Tour de l’Île dials features a view of the tower inspired by an historic lithograph and reinterpreted by the Maison. One of the watches uses a miniature Grand Feu enamel painted dial in pastel shades. Another features a highly original combination of guilloché and Grand Feu enamel. The last piece displays a finely engraved 18K pink gold dial. All of them are powered by the self-winding manufacture Calibre 2460 complemented by a hand-guilloché 18K 5N pink gold winding rotor.

JAEGER-LECOULTRE

Jaeger-LeCoultre celebrates their most iconic design by commemorating the 100th anniversary of the “Exposition des Arts Décoratifs”, a global event that took place in 1925 and would mark the birth of the Art Deco movement that would define the Reverso’s timeless aesthetic. Often referred to as "the watchmaker’s watchmaker," Jaeger-LeCoultre is showing us their technical prowess with the releases of the Reverso Tribute Minute Repeater and Reverso Hybris Artistica Calibre 179 Gyrotourbillon.

 

The Calibre 179 was initially unveiled in 2023, so this new version is simply reinterpreted for 2025 in a white gold case as a limited edition of 10 pieces, but still featuring the finest decorative craftsmanship. The front dial features blue lacquer, while the back dial showcases the excellent skeletonization work done by the Maison. The Reverso Tribute Minute Repeater highlights the newly developed, entirely in-house, hand-wound Calibre 953, which features 7 patented in,ventions including key inventions that enhance chime quality: trébuchet hammers, crystal gongs and silent-interval elimination. Cased in pink gold, this model will be produced in a limited series of 30 pieces; and while the back of the watch is the highlight, don't forget to spend time appreciating the newly designed front blue enamel dial with a hand-guilloché barley-seed pattern, which takes 12 hours to accomplish in the brand's Métiers Rares workshop.

JLC also provides updates to their Reverso Tribute Duoface and Monoface Small Seconds collections. What collectors will be talking about is the introduction of a pink gold Milanese mesh-style bracelet, with a sliding clasp, to match the pink gold case and mat golden-coloured grained dial of the Monoface Small Seconds model. For the Reverso Tribute Duoface models, we see the addition of a blue and black dial options for the front dial, while the back dial both comes in a silver colorway.

The Reverso Tribute Nonantieme "Enamel" was first introduced in 2021 to celebrate the Reverso’s 90th anniversary. In 2025, Jaeger-LeCoultre unveils a new version in pink gold with an elegant grey sunray-brushed dial and decorative enamelling on the back.

Also new for 2025 is the Reverso Tribute Geographic, combining the classic world time complication with a big date. Two version are available, one in stainless steel with blue dial and a pink gold version with a chocolate dial limited to 150 pieces. On the back, the world time map is laser engraved to shape the continents while lacquer is used to fill in the oceans. The 24-hour ring appears in a transparent rotating window marked with day/night coloring.

 

Among other releases from JLC, we find several new models, all crafted within Jaeger-LeCoultre's Métiers Rare atelier in the Vallée de Joux. The first series is the Reverso Tribute Enamel “Shahnameh” collection, which pays homage to the Persian epic poem, Shahnameh, and highlights the history of miniature painting, which originated in Persia. The other series are part of the Reverso One collection, which unites the codes of artistic crafts, and high jewellery.

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS

Known for their whimsical and poetic creations, Van Cleef & Arpels enriches its award-winning Pont des Amoureux collection by adding four new watches. Since 2010, and the first introduction of the Pont des Amoureux watch, the collection has told the beautiful love story of a man and a woman meeting on a bridge in Paris to kiss each other at noon and midnight before separating again. The two lovers mark the time by moving towards each other using a double retrograde movement. For 2025, the new releases reveal 4 models with precious bracelets and dial colors portraying the couple in landscape scenes evoking dawn, morning, dusk and moonlight. 

The new Lady Arpels Bal des Amoureux Automate continues the love story of the young couple portrayed with the Pont des Amoureux collection, and sets the scene for their private romantic rendezvous taking place in an open-air Parisian café. The time is displayed using stars in the night sky with a double retrograde system, while a separate automaton, which can be activated on demand, brings the lovers closer together as time goes by. As expected coming from VCA, the dial features a high level of craftsmanship with the use of grisaille enamel.

 

Van Cleef & Arpels also introduced two new precious creations with the Cadenas watch, combining a yellow gold bracelet with a case snow-set with diamonds and sapphires, and the Ruban Mystérieux, a unique High Jewelry piece centered around a 3.72-carat oval-cut DIF diamond and surrounded by diamonds, sapphires and emeralds.

TUDOR

Tudor updates its popular Black Bay 58 collection with the addition of a striking burgundy dial with a radial brush finish on the dial, and METAS Master Chronometer certification. A new option for a steel 5-link bracelet also becomes available to collectors for the first time in the line-up. The Black Bay Pro also receives a minor update with the addition of a new opaline dial option, and the Tudor Black Bay Chrono becomes available with a white and black dial with three-link and five-link bracelets, both with the brand’s T-Fit rapid-adjustable clasp.

Introduced as a new offering within the Black Bay collection, the Black Bay 68 now expands the line-up with a new 43mm case and METAS chronometer movement. Two dial options are available: a sun-brushed silver or blue colorway. Both watches come on the traditional three-link bracelet with micro-adjust.

The Tudor Pelagos line-up also sees a new addition with the release of the Pelagos Ultra. Clearly targeted to professional divers or enthusiasts, this new Pelagos Ultra retains its titanium package but doubles the previous water-resistance rating to 1,000 meters depth. The new 43mm case houses Tudor's MT5612-U movement, which is METAS Master Chronometer certified. 

IWC SCHAFFHAUSEN

IWC expands its Ingenieur collection by adding a new smaller size, new materials and a new complication.

Starting with the Ingenieur Automatic 35, IWC has now added a little sibling to its core collection. Trends are indicating a move towards smaller and more wearable timepieces and IWC has taken note. Three models of the Ingenieur Automatic 35 are available, starting with the 5N gold version paired with a matching gold-colored dial. The other two versions are encased in stainless steel with either a choice of black or silver dial. All models feature the characteristic “Grid” pattern on their dial.

 

Among the core collection, we see the addition of an 18-carat 5N gold version of the Ingenieur Automatic 40 paired with a black “grid” dial. Also introduced this year is a brand new 42mm full black ceramic Ingenieur – first spotted on Ed Sheeran's wrist a few days before Watches & Wonders – featuring an innovative multi-part ceramic case construction and a combination of satin-finishing, sandblasting and polishing on its ceramic components. Finally, complications make their entrance into the Ingenieur collection with the Ingenieur Perpetual Calendar 41 in stainless steel.

The big boy of IWC's Watches & Wonders' releases is the Pilot’s Watch Performance Chronograph Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month. The watch uses Ceratanium for the case and bracelet – a proprietary material developed by IWC and based on titanium but with the hardness of ceramic – giving the watch an all-black look enhanced by a black dial showcasing a hammered texture. Unlike your traditional perpetual calendar, the date and month are displayed in digital format using large gold-colored discs. On top of that you get a flyback chronograph and 68 hours of power reserve.

Also in Ceratanium is the new Big Pilot’s Watch Shock Absorber Tourbillon Skeleton XPL where IWC is using for the first time its patented SPRIN-g PROTECT® shock absorber system to protect a tourbillon against shocks. As a reminder, IWC's patented SPRIN-g PROTECT® technology uses a cantilever spring to cushion the movement and suspend it inside the case. If a watch falls on a hard surface, acceleration forces can range between 300 to 1,000 Gs, so using this cushion protection system makes a lot of sense for something as fragile as a tourbillon.

With the upcoming Apple Original Film’s “F1® THE MOVIE” starring Brad Pitt, IWC is releasing several watches inspired by elements of the movie. The first piece is a special edition of the Ingenieur 40 with a green “Grid” dial similar to the colour code and combination that Brad Pitt's character wears in the movie. IWC is also releasing three Pilot’s Chronograph watches inspired by the fictional “APXGP” F1 team.

BULGARI

Bulgari is appearing at Watches & Wonders for the first time and decided to make a mark in the halls of Palexpo by unveiling yet another record; this time, it's the world's thinnest flying tourbillon watch with the release of the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon. Measuring just 1.85mm thick, Bulgari is capturing its 10th world record in the category of ultra-thin horology and continuing to prove its technical prowess. But ultra-thin doesn't mean the brand is ignoring other aspects of a good mechanical watch. The new manually wound BVF 900 tourbillon calibre beats at 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz) and offers a respectable 42-hour of power reserve.

On the other end of the spectrum, Bulgari is staying true to its origins as a creator of beautiful jewellery pieces with the release of the Serpenti Aeterna, a modern and avant-garde take on its iconic Serpenti design; perfect to celebrate the year of the Snake in the Chinese calendar.

A. LANGE & SÖHNE

Among A. Lange & Söhne's line up of beautifully crafted timepieces, there are very few options for a simple time-only dress watch. With the addition of two new 34mm versions of the 1815 model, one in white gold and one in pink gold with blue dials, collectors now get more variety to choose from in Lange's catalog. Unlike the Saxonia Thin, the 1815 features more details on the dial with Arabic numerals attached to a railway-track minute scale, for example, and three levels of tiering on the dial. I believe collectors will be lining up to get this one.

 

The Odysseus, the brand's sporty offering, gets a new version made of Honeygold, Lange's proprietary gold alloy, and limited to 100 pieces. The matte brown dial complements the tone of the gold material, while the rest is the same as the original Odysseus released in 2019.

The highlight of the brand's releases comes in the form of the A. Lange & Söhne Minute Repeater Perpetual, which is a 40.5mm platinum complicated timepiece limited to just 50 examples. Very few watch brands spend the time and effort to develop new calibers and pair high complications together. Here, A. Lange & Söhne has used its technical expertise to create the manually-wound manufacture caliber L122.2 made of 640 movement parts and finished to the Maison's highest standards. On the dial side, the timepiece features a black enamel dial with all the calendar information clearly displayed, and retaining Lange's signature outsized date.

ZENITH

Zenith is celebrating its 160th anniversary in 2025, and the storied manufacture has decided to bring back one of their most iconic movements – the legendary calibre 135 – inside a brand new model called the G.F.J. For those unfamiliar with Zenith's history, these three letters refer to the initials of Zenith's founder: Georges Favre-Jacot. 

 

The Caliber 135 is incredibly important for Zenith in its history – especially as a manufacture constantly in pursuit of precision. Decades ago, observatories like the ones in Neuchâtel, Geneva, Kew Teddington, or Besançon, were holding chronometry trials where brands could submit their movements for competition. Zenith produced the Caliber 135 from 1949 to 1962 in two distinct versions: a commercial variant (135), and an “O” iteration (135-O) created exclusively for observatory chronometry trials. During the time Zenith was submitting this caliber for competition, it won 235 chronometry prizes – the most in watchmaking history. 

 

Now, for 2025, the Maison is relaunching the production of this iconic movement for the first time since 1962, but obviously with modern re-engineering. The new version of Caliber 135 delivers 72 hours of power reserve and is COSC certified. Notice the “brick” guilloché finishing on the movement? It's inspired by the distinctive façade of red and white-painted bricks of the Zenith Manufacture. On the front, we see the G.F.J. initials adorned on the deep blue Lapis Lazuli dial surrounded by an outer ring carrying the same “bricks” guilloché pattern as the movement. The small seconds at 6 o'clock is indicated in a mother-of-pearl subdial. Since the watch celebrates the 160th anniversary of Zenith, it will be limited to – you guessed it – 160 pieces.

 

As part of their new anniversary releases, Zenith is also unveiling a trio of watches offered in blue ceramic specially developed for their anniversary: a Chronomaster Sport, a Defy Skyline Chronograph and a Pilot Chronograph.

HERMÈS

First introduced in 2011, “Le Temps Suspendu” – French for “Suspended Time” – is a very interesting complication and is built to allow people to be more present in a specific moment. By pressing the pusher, both the hour and minute hands jump to the 12 o'clock position to remove the distraction of looking at your watch to check the time. Once the moment you are in has ended – it can be a romantic dinner, time with your kids, a phone call with a loved one, etc… – another press of the same pusher will bring the hands back to their correct time setting. It's a playful reminder that life is short and that every good moment has to be experienced fully. For 2025, Hermès has redesigned this singular complication on the Arceau and for the first time, offers this function in the Hermès Cut collection.

 

The Arceau Le Temps Suspendu is a reinterpretation of the original 2011 model. This time, the 42mm case showcases a partially openworked dial revealing the “Suspended Time” module. The watch is available in either white or rose gold with 3 choices of dial color: sunburst blue, brun désert, rouge sellier. The Hermès Cut Le Temps Suspendu is a continuation of the Cut collection released last year and is available in several versions, all cased in a 39mm rose gold case.

 

Finally, the Maillon Libre collection allows the brand to explore new territory by reinterpreting the anchor chain link as a wristwatch and a brooch watch.

TAG HEUER

With TAG Heuer returning to Formula 1 as the Official Timekeeper from the 2025 season, it is the perfect opportunity for the brand to reintroduce the TAG Heuer Formula 1 model. In total, nine new references are being launched in various combinations of dial, bezel and case colors. All models come in a 38mm case and feature TAG Heuer's Solargraph cal. TH50-00 which is powered by sunlight.

 

Staying with the Formula 1 theme, we see the release of a new edition of TAG Heuer Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph, this time in a special F1 livery. Crafted in white ceramic and mixed with sapphire elements, this technical timepiece shows the avant-garde spirit of TAG Heuer by housing its automatic split-seconds chronograph Calibre TH81-00, the brand's most advanced chronograph calibers ever made. On the dial side, avid fans of Formula 1 will find plenty of details linking this watch to their favorite racing championship. Red and white accents represent the signature colors of Formula 1, and the chronograph counters are inspired by racetrack design, featuring an asphalt-like finish, white and yellow starting grid positions, and the official F1 typography. These counters also feature another signature element widely associated with Formula 1: the phrase “LIGHTS OUT & AWAY WE GO,” made famous by British racing commentator David "Crofty" Croft and which signifies the start of the race. Only 10 pieces of this exclusive chronograph will be produced, all individually numbered.

As part of their Watches & Wonders novelties, TAG Heuer is also updating their Carrera Day-Date lineup with 5 new models and a Twin-Time model with GMT function. With updated aesthetics decorated with brushed and polished finishes, these watches all receive a new upgrade movement while retaining their original 41mm case sizes.

ULYSSE NARDIN

Ulysse Nardin is launching the Dive [AIR], the world's lightest mechanical dive watch, coming in at an impressive 52g, only including the strap. This is due to the high level of skeletonization taking place inside this timepiece and also the choice of materials used for the intricate case construction. The new 44mm case is built in a modular construction from titanium and carbon fibre, and the brand partnered with various companies to integrate innovative and sustainable materials into the Diver [AIR] project. The titanium used in the Diver [AIR]’s movement and middle case is 90% recycled. Other parts of the case feature materials made from recycled fishing nets and upcycled carbon fibers.

To keep the watch light, Ulysse Nardin chose titanium — both durable and light — for the watch movement, and despite the space inside the watch being 80% air and just 20% material (the watch movement), the highly skeletonised calibre UN-374 can withstand an impact of an impressive 5’000g. The bridges are barely a few millimeters wide, hollowed out to save even more weight, while the winding rotor has been minimised to the essentials. The mainspring barrel has been reconfigured into a flying arrangement to reduce the mass of the top bridge. Material has even been stripped from the barrel itself to lighten it further, bringing the total weight of the calibre down to just 7g. As a watch with diving purposes, it carries a 200m water resistance rating.

HUBLOT

Hublot launched its Big Bang model in 2005 under the direction of the legendary industry veteran Jean Claude Biver, and it is now impossible to think of Hublot without this iconic model in their collection. To celebrate 20 years since the first Hublot Big Bang was launched, the brand is releasing an impressive lineup of timepieces that showcase their technical innovations, mastery of complications, and R&D investments over the years.

Let's start with the special CHF 1 Million Hublot Big Bang “Materials & High Complications” set, comprising 5 unique Hublot pieces with crazy combinations of high complications and extreme materials. The first two pieces in the set – the Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic Sapphire and Big Bang Tourbillon Red Magic – are also the “simplest” of the five, with only the combination of a micro-rotor and a tourbillon. Moving on to the third piece in the collection, the Big Bang Tourbillon Chronograph in water blue sapphire with a skeletonized monopusher chronograph tourbillon calibre. This shade of color use in the case is one of Hublot's latest developments in chromatic sapphire. Rounding up the set are two minute repeater pieces. The first one is the Big Bang Integrated Tourbillon Cathedral Minute Repeater in Blue Texalium. This material features similar properties to conventional weaved carbon fibre but allows for more liberty in the tightness of the weave and the colours it takes on. The second minute repeater in the collection is the Big Bang Tourbillon Chronograph Cathedral Minute Repeater in black frosted carbon fibre, combining a tourbillon, cathedral minute repeater, and a monopusher chronograph. 

As part of the 20th anniversary of the Big Bang, Hublot is celebrating their exploration of colored sapphire by releasing a special Big Bang 20th Anniversary “Master of Sapphire” set, which features five examples of the Big Bang MECA-10, each cased in a different sapphire or SAXEM case: transparent sapphire, Water Blue sapphire, Deep Blue sapphire, Purple sapphire and Neon Yellow SAXEM. These colors represents some of the manufacture's key milestones in their study of sapphire. The MECA-10 caliber was chosen for this set as it marks the first time that this impressive movement has been cased in sapphire, and intricacies of this 10-day power reserve movement can be seen through the sapphire cases of this collection.

Five new limited edition Hublot Big Bang models make their way into Hublot catalog in a mixture of old and new to celebrate the Big Bang's anniversary. Emblematic elements from the original Big Bang are combined with the in-house Big Bang Unico movement to bring the original model into a modern package. The dials are engraved with a carbon fibre-inspired relief motif and the case has been redesigned. 

Hublot is also adding new pieces to their Big Bang Unico lineup of watches with a new Water Blue sapphire color in a 44mm case, and two new ceramic colors — Mint Green and Petrol Blue – introduced in the 42mm case version. The Hublot Big Bang One Click in 33mm is also receiving some new additions with an expanded list of materials and gem options.

ROGER DUBUIS

Mr Roger Dubuis – the watchmaker – spent the better part of two decades at Patek Philippe before setting up his own workshop in the 1980s. This is when Dubuis developed and co-patented a retrograde perpetual calendar module with Jean-Marc Wiederrecht (founder of complication specialist Agenhor) and it would later become the basis for the very first Roger Dubuis watch. The visual impact of a retrograde display unfolds when the retrograde hands – which travel along an arc – reach the end of their scales and instantly jump back to their point of origin. The sophistication of a Biretrograde system – where a complex harmony of cams, rakes, clicks, and springs is required to display information on 2 separate semi-circles – showcases the mastery that Mr Roger Dubuis had as a watchmaker. For 2025, the Genevan Maison is paying homage to the work laid down by Mr Dubuis decades ago and, in celebration of the brand's 30th anniversary, is unveiling 2 new timepieces marrying complications and Roger Dubuis' signature Biretrograde display.

The first piece is the impressive Excalibur Grande Complication. The Grand Complication title is given to any timepiece fitted with at least three additional functions on top of the basic time-telling. Here, the Maison unveils their second Grande Complication movement in this new watch, the Caliber RD118, which carries a perpetual calendar, a minute repeater, and an automatic tourbillon; and as always with Roger Dubuis, the movement parts are meticulously hand-decorated to achieve the esteemed Poinçon de Genève certification. Using the Biretrograde display system, the date and day-of-the-week are presented in their respective semi-circles, with a month disc between 11 and 12 o’clock, and a small leap year indication alongside. The minute repeater is activated by pressing the pusher on the left side of the 45mm pink gold case, but Roger Dubuis’ Minute Repeater is distinctive for its musicality. Known as “The Devil’s Chord”, the tritone chime rings a low pitch for the hours, a high pitch for the minutes, and two tones for the quarter hours. Finally, positioned between 5 and 6 o’clock is the flying tourbillon, built with a mirror-polished cage inspired by the Celtic Cross. As it is customary with the brand, only 8 pieces of this Grand Complication will be produced.

Moving to the second release for Watches & Wonders, Roger Dubuis is releasing the Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar. More classical in design, this timepiece presents the calendar information in the signature Biretrograde display alongside a white mother-of-pearl, all fitted into a slimmer 40mm pink gold case. To balance out the dial design, we find a small seconds counter at 6 o'clock, which aligns with the Poinçon de Genève seal at 12 o'clock. Powered by the Calibre RD840, the watch offers 60 hours of power reserve, and a little surprise visible through the sapphire caseback. On a ring surrounding the movement appears the phase “C'est une montre actuelle, inspirée mais pas soumise au passé, qui se projette dans un future qui nous appartient.” Translating as “This is a watch of today, inspired but not restricted to the past, projected into a future that belongs to us”, it is a quote from the Roger Dubuis co-founders that has previously appeared on the oscillating mass of past timepieces. 

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