If you’re a regular reader of Wristcheck, you’ll be familiar with legendary independent watchmakers like Richard Mille, Roger Smith, and F.P. Journe. However, there’s an entire world of indies flying under-the-radar, which is more than worth your time and attention
Sometimes it’s hard to take a step back and acknowledge how lucky we are to have been born when we were, but it’s a very special time to be alive — especially if you’re a watch collector. In watchmaking, the 50s laid the rules for classic proportions, the 60s pushed many boundaries of timekeeping innovation, and the 70s were relentlessly creative, but it’s safe to say there’s never been a better time to love watches than the last decade.
We benefit from several centuries of technological development, industrial processes that were unimaginable half a century ago, and the global retail and community networks that make collecting more accessible and fulfilling than ever before. In addition to all that, we’re also here to witness the rise and rise of the independent watchmaker.
While the most established, auction record-shattering names in independent watchmaking make up much of the conversation, there are also dozens of lesser-known independent watchmakers and designers around the world working on all kinds of exciting projects. From affordable brands looking to democratize great design to some of the finest examples of haute horlogerie out there, let’s take a look at five of our favorite indies who are making interesting watches.
Furlan Marri
Despite its relative youth, Furlan Marri has already earned itself a legion of loyal customers around the world who love the brand’s offering of good design at a great price. Founded by close friends Andrea Furlan and Hamad Al Marri, the brand was initially launched on Kickstarter with five different references — all of which were inspired by the famed Patek Philippe “Tasti Tondi” Chronograph Ref. 1463 and powered by meca-quartz movements.
Over the last couple of years, Furlan Marri has continued to level up its watchmaking, beginning with the debut of its first mechanically powered watches that featured attractive Cornes de Vache-style lugs and sector dials. Most recently, the brand has launched its very first mechanical chronographs, which are not only produced in Switzerland but are also column-wheel driven and equipped with a flyback function.
There aren’t too many watchmakers with less than a decade of experience making timepieces like these, but Furlan Marri isn’t interested in doing the same things as everyone else. If you’re looking for a watch that blends heritage inspiration (and attention to detail in all the right areas), with an affordable ethos behind it — Furlan Marri is one you need to investigate.
Laine Watches
Originally born in Finland, Torsti Laine is an independent watchmaker based in one of the homes of Swiss watchmaking: Le Locle. After going to watchmaking school in Finland, he worked at the likes of A. Lange & Söhne and Kari Voutilainen before deciding to venture out on his own, and today he produces a range of very fine hand-finished timepieces with almost endless customizability.
Essentially, Laine allows clients to select the kind of movement finishing, as well as the make-up of the three-part dials and their finishing, allowing for true personalisation at a fraction of the cost of what other independent watchmakers might charge for a “custom project”. If you’re a fan of manually wound movements (using a Unitas 6498-1 base calibre) then the G3 is a great place to start, while the micro-rotor powered (Vaucher 5401 base calibre) V38 and V38 Frosted each offer incredible beauty for their asking price.
Krayon
It was only a decade ago that Remi Maillat opened the doors of his independent watchmaking studio Krayon, but his work has already been acknowledged with success at the GPHG awards. The son of a microtechnology engineer at the Swiss Laboratory of Horological Research, Maillat finished his own studies at Vaucher Manufacture (who produced some movements for the likes of Audemars Piguet and Richard Mille) before working in the technical development team at Cartier.
His first personal watchmaking breakthrough was when he developed a technical solution for the Universal Sunrise Sunset complication, which paved the way for his Everywhere collection and was eventually awarded the Innovation Prize at the GPHG in 2018. Using a similar, but simplified version of the same principles found in the Everywhere, Maillat then launched the Anywhere collection which was more wearable and ergonomic than its predecessor.
What ties together all of Krayon’s watches—beyond the sophisticated sunrise-sunset complications—is some of the most immaculate movement finishing you’ll ever see. Krayon isn’t the most affordable watchmaker on this list, but the quality of work from Maillat and his team more than justifies its price.
De Rijke & Co.
Within the realm of independent watchmaking, there’s plenty of emphasis on technical competency and finishing quality, but arguably not enough on good old-fashioned fun. When it comes to De Rijke & Co., that’s exactly what we’re getting thanks to the brand’s colorful dials and whimsical Miffy Moonphases.
The team at De Rijke & Co. do offer slightly more straight-laced time-only watches in the Amalfi Series — complete with a 38mm rotating case — but it’s the Miffy Moonphase line-up that really catches the eye. Typically produced in limited runs of just 25 pieces, the yellow Miffy Moonphase and orange Miffy Moonphase watches honoring illustrator Dick Bruna's work are some of the most enjoyable from De Rijke & Co., both of which are powered by workhorse converted Sellita SW288-1 movements.
Sartory Billard
After starting his watch collecting journey with a Cartier Santos 100 nearly two decades ago, industrial designer Armand Billard founded Sartory Billard with his good friend Ludovic Sartory back in 2015. Following some early tinkering with experimental case shapes in the SB01, SB02, and SB03 collections, the brand has now found its feet with the more recent SB05 and SB07 collections, which focus more on complex and customizable dial designs.
The watches of Sartory Billard are created in partnership with some of the very best manufacturers in Switzerland, allowing the brand to offer its clients details and finishes you won’t find anywhere else. While SB05 features a titanium case and a manually wound La Joux Perret-powered movement, the 70s-inspired and much sportier SB07 houses a La Joux-Perret automatic G100, with both giving customers dial options such as hand guilloche, enameling and various hard-stone settings. If you’re after a watch that’s unique and bespokely designed to your taste, Sartory Billard is a name you need to know.
