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Introducing H. Moser & Cie.'s Endeavour Centre Seconds Concept Lime Green

By Wristcheck
12 May 2022
3 min read

The latest in its line of daringly minimalist timepieces, Moser’s recent addition to the Endeavour collection uses the traditional art of Grand Feu enameling to create a vibrant, hammered-textured dial

 

Largely known for its gorgeous fumé dials, Moser’s latest offering in ‘Lime Green’ uses the age-old “grand feu’’ enameling technique to create an outstanding hammered-like pattern on a gold base dial. The quintessential three-hand watch comes housed in a 40mm steel case and is powered by an automatic engine.

The sui generis dial is the brainchild of the craftsmen at Moser, who hammer a gold base and wash three different pigments that are finely crushed before being applied on the surface to accomplish an ombré effect. The scrupulous attention to detail is courtesy of the master enameller who takes around an hour to apply the pigments, adding them one by one to achieve the shadow effect. This meticulous process, Moser says, is necessary for the colors to oxidize and unify in the furnace without getting pixelated.

 

Moser
A translucent Grand Feu enamel dial must be fired 12 times – a rigorous process to create a signature H. Moser & Cie. fumé effect Photo: Perkin Yu/ Wristcheck
Moser
The purple seconds hand signifies the use of the Straumann Double Hairspring in the watch’s movement ©H. Moser & Cie.

 

A translucent Grand Feu enamel dial must be fired 12 times – a rigorous process to create a signature H. Moser & Cie. fumé effect. Named Lime Green, the watch face features an extraordinary finish, a prepossessing texture, and an animated tone. With no logo or indexes, a design philosophy Moser likes to flex through its ‘Endeavour’ and ‘Specials’ collections, the minimalist execution of the Endeavour Centre Seconds Concept Lime Green renders a pleasing austerity of the design.

 

Moser
The HMC 200 automatic caliber has been entirely designed, developed, and produced in-house Photo: Perkin Yu/ Wristcheck
Moser
The Straumann Double Hairspring is a brilliant solution to counteract the effects of gravity on the balance  ©H. Moser & Cie.

 

Inside the steel case beats the HMC 200 automatic caliber, which has been entirely designed, developed, and produced in-house. The self-winding movement achieves a solid power reserve of around three days and oscillates at a frequency of 21,600 vibrations per hour. It comes equipped with a regulating organ manufactured by H. Moser & Cie.'s sister company, Precision Engineering AG, and incorporates the Straumann Double Hairspring – a feature easily recognisable by its purple seconds hand and the blue balance bridge. The use of this double hairspring, stacked one atop the other in a 180° diametrically opposed orientation, helps in minimizing the negative effect of gravity on the watch’s accuracy. Though this may seem like a simple innovation, the cost of constructing and regulating the double hairspring can cost as much as making a tourbillon.

 

Moser
Photo: Perkin Yu/ Wristcheck

 

Embellished with the famed Moser double stripes, the caliber HMC 200 features a large oscillating weight and an automatic bi-directional pawl winding system. Paired with a grey kudu leather strap, this understated three-hand watch embodies the Endeavour collection’s modest and functional DNA. With its sculpted cases and pure dials, this family of classic round watches clearly believes in doing more with less. 

 

Moser
This understated three-hand watch features a grey kudu leather strap and reflects the Endeavour collection's modest and functional DNA Photo: Perkin Yu/ Wristcheck

 

Specifications

Reference Number: 1200-1233
Diameter: 40mm
Case: Steel
Dial: Grand Feu enamel Lime Green fumé with hammered texture, leaf-shaped hour and minute hands, and purple central seconds hand
Movement: HMC 200 self-winding caliber
Frequency: 21,600 vibrations/hour
Power Reserve: 3 days (approx.)
Functions: Hours and minutes and central seconds
Strap: Hand-stitched gray kudu leather with steel pin buckle
Price: HK$218,000

For further information, visit H. Moser & Cie.