The Most Legendary Chronographs From Raceway To Runway

There’s an undeniable charm that comes with a function-forward chronograph — a timepiece that has been the indelible companion of everyone from automotive engineers and Olympic officials, to aviators and captains of industry. Regardless if you’re attracted to the chronograph for its technical sophistication or the balanced business of its dial, there are a few of the most legendary chronographs that have earned their place in the history books, as timepieces every collector should own at least once in their lifetime.

Here, we’ll take a look at nine of the most important chronograph models, from watchmaking brands that have become known for the excellence of the chronographs they produce. So if you’re wondering where to get started in your chronograph-collecting journey, this is a list of watches you can’t go wrong with.

Rolex Daytona

It’s an obvious place to start, but there’s a good reason that the Rolex Daytona has become one of the most recognisable watches on the planet. While Rolex had produced chronographs for a number of decades already, the Daytona name first appeared on a Rolex dial in 1963 with the ref. 6239 and today, the latest generation ref. 126500LN is a true icon of the horological universe.

Collecting the Daytona is an area of scholarship within itself, from vintage Daytona examples that are closer to precious artefacts, to the neo-vintage era (with both clean white and contrasting black dial options) from before the famed ceramic bezel. If the utilitarian presence of steel isn’t to your taste, Rolex has created references in almost every precious metal imaginable, including the highly coveted platinum (with or without diamonds), the so-called “John Mayer” in yellow gold, under-the-radar white gold and the richly hued everose gold.

Once the Daytona really catches your imagination, it’s almost impossible to stop thinking about it.

Omega Speedmaster

The Omega Speedmaster might be the chronograph with the most incredible story behind it, as the timepiece that accompanied NASA astronauts into space and onto the moon. Much like the Daytona, however, the classic Moonwatch in stainless steel is the most popular among enthusiasts as a watch you can wear any day of the week.

Another world of research and scholarship unto itself, the Speedmaster has seen countless reinterpretations and variations, from special editions such as the "Silver Snoopy Award" to the heritage-inspired Speedmaster 57 range. No matter if you’re enchanted by the story of NASA exploration, or prefer a trackside expression of the famous three-register chronograph, there really is something for everyone.

IWC Pilot's Watch Chronograph

The watchmakers at the Schaffhausen-based factory of IWC have several chronograph families that could deserve a place on this list, but there’s something captivating about the IWC Pilot's Watch Chronograph collection. A true expression of straightforward, no-nonsense watch design, the Pilot’s Watch chronographs from IWC are refreshingly functional in their aesthetic (and experimental in their materials), with large Arabic numerals, luminous hands and high-contrast dials.

This ref. IW3705-03 in black ceramic is an excellent and highly collectible neo-vintage example, while this more contemporary expression in stainless steel dials down the stealth without losing any of its impact on the wrist. Especially if you grew up dreaming of being behind the controls of an aircraft, rather than the steering wheel of a racecar, then the IWC Pilot's Watch Chronograph collection is for you.

Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph

For decades, Patek Philippe has produced some of the most desirable chronographs on the face of the planet, with vintage examples regularly hammering as the top lot of a sale. The perpetual calendar chronographs are included here (some more precious than others), but there’s a clarity of purpose to the pure chronographs of Patek Philippe.

A shining example of this is the Patek Philippe Grand Complication Split-Seconds Chronograph ref. 5370P-001, hewn from 41mm of glimmering platinum and housing the elegant and complex calibre CHR 29-535 PS. For those compelled by watches more directly inspired by the past, this Multi-Scale ref. 5975G-001 is a treat, and as an example of the most tasteful of diamond-set dials, this recently sold Tiffany-stamped ref. 5170P-001 is as good as it gets.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph

While the original Audemars Piguet Royal Oak from 1972 was defined by its chic simplicity and integrated steel bracelet, its sibling from 1993 in the Royal Oak Offshore made no bones about its exaggerated proportions and functionality. As a result, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph is one of the most adored collections today, thanks to its bright colors and sporty wrist presence.

As you’d expect from Audemars Piguet, there are dozens of different references, including a number in stainless steel (some with a touch of bling) such as this white dial reference and this brown dial example. For those after the heft of gold, Audemars Piguet delivers again, with this rose gold and black ceramic example an unmistakably serious timepiece.

Zenith El Primero

The Rolex Daytona stands alone today as a chronograph of significance, but several decades ago the Daytona wouldn’t have been possible without the Zenith El Primero chronograph movements inside them. This legendary automatic chronograph movement was one of the first in the world (alongside both Heuer and Seiko), and survives today in a number of different designs, from the military-inspired to the collaborative and futuristic.

Perhaps one of the most important releases for Zenith of the last decade, the Chronomaster Sport is powered by an El Primero movement and remains extremely desirable among enthusiasts. For those after a more classic design, the Chronomaster Original is an ideal everyday chronograph, with its multi-colored subdials and comfortable leather strap.

Breitling Navitimer

Among the most legendary chronographs, Breitling is a name that can’t be missed, with the Navitimer collection dating back more than half a century. The first Navitimer was designed by Willy Breitling for the US Aircraft Owners and Pilots Association (AOPA) in the mid-50s, as a chronograph that could assist pilots with making in-flight calculations such as average speed, fuel consumption and more.

To achieve this, Breitling adapted the logarithmic slide rule to be functional on the bezel of the watch, creating the instantly recognizable internal bezel design that’s present on this white dial reference. With such an important history behind it, Breitling has continued to offer the Navitimer and has created a number of special editions, such as this eye-catching SwissAir example. 

TAG Heuer Carrera

As far as the list of chronograph manufacturers with deep ties to the world of motorsports, TAG Heuer is up there with the best of them. In fact, the TAG Heuer Carrera collection was born in 1950 to honor the Carrera Panamericana motor race, which covered more than 3,500 km across Mexico.

The distinctly twisted lyre lugs of the Carrera have long fascinated collectors, with a number of modern reissues unveiled in recent years turning heads, as well as a partnership with automaker Porsche to create special editions. This grey dial reference from 2021 is a clean daily companion, while a little extra pop can be found in this Orange Racing edition launched at the start of 2023.

A. Lange & Söhne

Not all great chronograph manufacturers are based in Switzerland or Japan, with A. Lange & Söhne proudly flying the German flag as a watchmaker of near peerless quality. Its time-only watches are spectacular in their poise and finishing, but this level of perfection-chasing precision also exists in the brand's chronographs, with examples such as the 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar in platinum impressing even the most hard-to-please collectors.

Another quintessential complication from A. Lange & Söhne, though one that’s a little less conventional, is this Datograph Up/Down in platinum that is a masterpiece both technically and aesthetically. With its oversized date window and symmetrical dial, the manually wound calibre L951.6 within is a marvel that deserves to be stared at for hours under a loupe.