A Guide To The Best Gem-Set Watches & How To Wear Them

The last decade of watch collecting has broadly been defined by the stainless steel sports watch, in an era that reached its zenith with the sale of Paul Newman’s Rolex Daytona back in 2017. The ethos was one of understated utilitarianism, where collectors focused on the IYKYK details of the Submariner, the Nautilus and the Royal Oak, communicating a brand of scholastic zest and unpretentiousness that the watch collecting world hadn’t quite seen before.

However, while those icons of Rolex, Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet will forever remain elevated examples of the everyday category, a shift in taste is beginning to emerge as freshly minted enthusiasts feel increasingly confident to express themselves. Design is a focus, along with unexpected materials and details — and just as the fashion world continues to hurtle towards an all-casual-everything future — the watch world is increasingly unafraid of a little formality.

Of the most exciting collecting categories to explore in this brave new world, gem-set watches stand alone as one that is inextricably linked to self-confidence — a hallmark of where we are today — and one that is ripe for self-expression. Keen to turn some heads? Roger Dubuis has you covered. Looking for elevated elegance? Perhaps a Breguet Classique Ultra Thin.

No matter the mood, the option of a gem-set watch adds a little brio to any occasion, regardless of whether you’re meeting a friend for coffee or chairing a boardroom meeting. Because at the end of the day, there’s only one rule when it comes to wearing gem-set watches: do it however you want.

With this in mind, let’s take a look at some of our favorite gem-set watches, from legendary watchmakers like Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, Breguet and beyond. If you’re in the mood to liven up your collection with a little bling, here’s some handy inspiration.

Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Ref. 5971P

Kicking things off with a veritable titan of collecting — with or without diamonds — this ref. 5971P from Patek Philippe has it all. A regular example (if you can even use that word to describe such a watch) would be a grail-worthy timepiece to own, but this remarkable piece features a 40mm platinum case and a bezel set with baguette-cut diamonds. If that wasn’t enough, its inky black dial boasts a further scattering of diamonds as hour markers, while the near peerless hand-wound Patek Philippe Caliber CH 27-70 Q presents as a miniature city of gears and levers visible through the exhibition caseback. Extraordinarily special stuff. 

Rolex Day-Date “Stella Dial” Ref. 18038

Within the Mariana-like depths of Rolex collecting, Stella dial Day-Dates are increasingly recognized as some of the rarest and most desirable watches to ever leave Switzerland. This ref. 18038 in yellow gold is a beautiful example of what’s on offer with such watches, fitted with a rich ox-blood red lacquer dial that’s made all the more special with diamond hour markers. With a classic 36mm case, Spanish day-wheel and 42 hours of power reserve served up via its calibre 3055, this isn’t a watch that’ll fly under the radar, but who would want it to?

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore “Rainbow” Chronograph

You wouldn’t say gem-set watches have hit the mainstream as far trends yet, however, a mini-trend of the last few years has been a love affair with “rainbow” bezels. This Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph from Audemars Piguet is a perfect example, featuring a bezel resplendent with gradiated sapphires, forming a color wheel of baguette-cut stones. It features a warmly toned rose gold case that measures 37mm in diameter, and when paired with its white rubber strap, makes for the summer watch of your dreams. 

Breguet Classique Ultra Thin

If you’re after a dusting of diamonds, but not so many as to draw unwanted eyes, this Breguet Classique Ultra Thin is as tasteful as it gets. With modestly sized diamonds that adorn the 38mm yellow gold bezel and lugs, you might even argue the immaculately engine-turned guilloché dial remains the star of the show, interrupted only by a pair of heat-blued Breguet hands. Housing the automatic calibre 502.3 with a power reserve of 45 hours, it’s the kind of watch that can traverse the slackline between the every day and the special occasion.

Richard Mille RM026 Tourbillon Serpent Piece Unique

Special doesn’t begin to describe this RM026 Tourbillon Serpent, which enjoys the rarified air of being a piece unique from Richard Mille. Featuring a 45mm white gold case, it’s entirely set with diamonds across the top surface and flanks of the case, as well as into the crown and strap buckle. The dial is a feat of jewelery-making, however, boasting twin serpents in white and yellow gold that are respectively encrusted with green and yellow emeralds, both of which cover the calibre RM026 tourbillon beneath. If there was ever a watch that deserved two commas in its price, it’s this one. 

Rolex Daytona Ref. 116506 In Platinum

Within Daytona lore, early vintage examples in good condition remain unbeaten in desirability, but of the more modern references, this ref. 116506 in platinum is up there with the very best. Not only are its sultry brown ceramic bezel and icy blue dial an instant indicator of its platinum status, but this specific reference also features baguette-cut diamond hour markers, earning it a place on this list and in the hearts of many enthusiasts. Originally launched to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the Daytona in 2013, collectors have spent the last decade competing for limited quantities of this watch, with the goal of adding one to their own collections.

Patek Philippe Twenty~4 Manchette Ref. 4910

Another example of tastefully applied diamonds, once again in a watch that could easily be worn as a daily companion, is this Twenty~Four ref. 4910 from Patek Philippe with a charming sunburst brushed blue dial. Arriving with a stainless steel case and bracelet that both measure 25mm in width, its quartz-powered calibre E15 is a low maintenance-high convenience approach to timekeeping that will appeal to anyone leading a high-flying life. Balanced, straightforward, and chic in equal measure. 

Audemars Piguet Millenary

A collection within the Audemars Piguet stable that doesn’t get the attention it deserves, the Millenary is a contrasting breath of fresh air from the excellent, but universally celebrated Royal Oak range. This specific example arrives with a refined oval case and elegantly stepped lugs, both of which are generously contoured and set with diamonds. Its off-set dial towards the 3 o’clock position enjoys a flawless mother-of-pearl surface, while exposing an expertly finished golden bridge and oscillating organ that visually brings the watch to life. More than worthy of a closer inspection.

Roger Dubuis Excalibur The Knights of the Round Table III

For those in the mood to draw some attention, the Excalibur The Knights of the Round Table III from Roger Dubuis is a symphony of watchmaking and stone-setting expertise. Cased in a hefty 47mm of rose gold — complete with Roger Dubuis’ signature bezel notches — the dial is almost concave to allow space for the dozen 3D-modeled knights presiding over a table made entirely of semi-translucent enamel. The dial alone takes more than a week to create, and you can see why. 

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Ref. 15451ST

Wrapping things up with a watch that straddles the past and present in terms of broad collecting taste, this 37mm Audemars Piguet Royal Oak ref. 15451ST is the best of both worlds. You’re getting a quintessential luxury sports watch in stainless steel — designed by Gérald Genta, no less — as well as a little extra panache with diamonds set into the legendary octagonal bezel. It’s black Grande Tapisserie dial plays with the light brilliantly too, while you’ll always be able to rely on the calibre AP 3120 beneath it.