Three Watch Brands that are Hidden Gems in 2024

What is “good value” when it comes to watches? Is it a watch that you can wear all day, every day, for the rest of your life? Is it a representation of the materials and work that has gone into it? Perhaps the power of the brand name on the dial? Or even the possibility of selling that watch for more money a few years down the road. Maybe it's even all of the above?

 

Honestly, value is subjective, and one person's idea of a great deal will be a hard pass for someone else — and that's OK. Having said that, we've come up with three brands that we think are in some ways could be called “hidden gems”. These hidden gems offer a tremendous amount of watch for the price and offer a compelling mix of style, heritage and watchmaking know-how.

Parmigiani Fleurier

Parmigiani Fleurier might be the best watch brand you've never heard of. While they're young by Swiss watchmaking standards, they've done an incredible amount in a short period of time. The brand was founded in 1996 by Michel Parmigiani, one of the great watchmakers of the modern age. Above all, Parmigiani, the man, was known as a restoration expert, responsible for restoring many pieces in the Patek Philippe museum and maintaining one of the most significant private collections of timepieces in the world, the Sandoz collection. On top of this, he developed calibers for other brands, including Breguet and Vacheron Constantin. Eventually, Michel Parmigiani decided it was time to work under his own name, and he launched his eponymous brand in 1996.

Parmigiani Fleurier, with the backing of the Sandoz foundation, began building an impressive watch empire in Fleurier. In addition to the brand itself, there's the manufacturing side, which includes Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier, which supplies technical and impressively finished calibres to brands like Audemars Piguet, Hermès and even Richard Mille. From a movement side, they're no joke.

These days, Michel Parmigiani occupies a strictly honorary role, but his replacement as CEO is Guido Terrini, a man who spearheaded Bulgari's watch category, including the record-smashing Octo Finissimo collection. Under Terrini's leadership, the brand's image has been refreshed, and new releases like the sleek, contemporary integrated bracelet Tonda and the dressy Toric are winning over critics and customers alike. Oh, and one final reason why you need to seriously consider Parmigiani Fleurier — it's been the watch of choice for King Charles III, who wears a 2000s-era Toric Chronograph.

TAG Heuer

TAG Heuer is one of the biggest brands in the world — surely it's a bit rich to suggest that it is, in any way, shape or form — a hidden gem? Well, yes and no. Of course, people know about TAG Heuer and their famous models like the Carrera and the Monaco, but there's a sense, a certain amount of snobbery even, that the brand is a mainstream watchmaker lacking in clout. Well, that's simply not true. TAG Heuer is a brand full of history, making iconic watches, which also happens to have a strong legacy of impressive high-end watchmaking that, honestly, needs more recognition.

 

A case in point is the brand's pioneering V4 technology, which offered a fully automatic movement with a remarkable linear winding system, with the winding weight of a single tungsten block visible through the back of the engine-like case. As if that wasn't enough, TAG Heuer took the automotive association to the extreme by using tiny belts, a mere 0.07mm thick, to transfer power from wheel to wheel. Of course, this level of technology is hard to come by, but even on the more down-to-earth end of the spectrum, the open-worked Monaco watches are a tremendous package, with a clean, well-executed contemporary design, sleek titanium case and a movement that is, hands-down one of the best mass-produced modern chronograph movements out there.

Of course, many in the know would argue that TAG Heuer's best work is their heritage-inspired designs, like the 39mm Carrera 'Glassbox'. Released in 2023, this watch is a near-perfect retro chronograph. It combines the heritage of the Carrera, a genuinely iconic design dating back to 1963, with a modern design sensibility and build quality. The movement is the excellent column wheel TRH20, with 80 hours of power reserve; the case is sleek, pebble-like and perfectly sized at 39mm, while the 'glassbox' sapphire crystal is a bezel-less dome offers an unparalleled view of the dial. With a retail price of around $6500 US, it's hard to go too far wrong. And, of course, if you want something with a bit more spice, try the Skipper variant, inspired by the historic regatta timer.

So next time you're in the market for a sporty chronograph, go to the guys who practically defined the genre.

H. Moser & Cie

Owned by the dynamic Meylan family since 2012, the historic name H. Moser & Cie occupies a unique place in the watchmaking landscape. Moser has built its name on its sumptuous dials, no-logo design and luxuriously minimalist aesthetic. But there's an incredible amount of substance to back up that style. The movements are made internally to a level the vast majority of Swiss brands cannot compete with. They make their own balance springs and balance wheels as part of their modular escapement, an ingeniously cost-effective solution that allows them to make high-quality, beautifully finished calibres at a seriously competitive price. It's smart design, too — look at any of the iconic Moser perpetual calendars. Perpetual Calendars are typically cluttered when it comes to dial layout, but Moser's clever use of a miniature central month display and a leap-year indicator on the caseback make for one of the most minimal QPs out there. Take this gorgeous tantalum-cased Endeavor as an example. High complication, unusual case material and one of the most stunning dials you're ever likely to see. It's a compelling package.

Of course, not everything about Moser is dressy — they've also made real headway into high-end sports watches, most notably with the Streamliner. Of the recent crop of integrated sports watches inspired by the unending popularity of the Royal Oak and the Nautilus, the Streamliner stands out. It's not derivative; it has a clear design language that sets it apart from the pack, and it has one of the most gorgeous bracelets in the game at the moment. If you're considering an integrated bracelet watch and the Moser Streamliner isn't on your list, we suggest you reassess your list.