12 New Releases at Geneva Watch Days 2024

A rather nascent watch fair, Geneva Watch Days, was established only in 2020 as a result of collaboration between six independent watchmakers: Breitling, Bvlgari, MB&F, De Bethune, Girard Perregaux, and H.Moser & Cie. Think of it as sort of a horological Ivy League for the rebel spirits. Over the mere four years, the event has garnered attention from both established brands (see Jacob & Co.) and the Bright Young Things of the world, like Konstantin Chaykin and Ming.

The 2024 edition of the fair also coincided with Breitling’s 140th anniversary (which prompted the brand to launch not one and not two, but three new renditions of its iconic models) and ran a gamut of exciting collaborations. Bvlgari, for example, played a mind-haunting horological symphony in collaboration with Swiss conductor Lorenzo Viotti, MB&F once again joined hands with the enfant terrible of clockmakers, L’Epée, and Massena created an ode to regatta races together with independent watchmaker Albishorn. And, who could forget the deliciously daring pair created in partnership between H. Moser & Cie. and Studio Underd0g (Which we covered in detail here)? 

So, without further ado, here are the launches from Geneva Watch Days 2024 that scratched our itch.

Bvlgari Octo Roma Grande Sonnerie Tourbillon and Carillon Tourbillon

The Octo Roma Grande Sonnerie Tourbillon and Octo Roma Carillon Tourbillon revolutionize Bvlgari's auditory experience. As a brand deeply connected to the rich history and culture of ancient Rome, Bvlgari boldly explores a realm beyond conventional musical harmony that remains an essential element in classical compositions. With the precision of a concert musician, the Bvlgari Manufacture in Le Sentier has mastered every type of chiming timepiece. The BVV 800 caliber of the Octo Roma Grande Sonnerie Tourbillon expertly chimes the hours and quarters as they pass, and dutifully repeats the hour on the hour. With flawless execution, it can also chime on command for hours, quarters, and minutes, showcasing its grandeur with four gongs and hammers. The Octo Roma Carillon Tourbillon serenades the passing of time with its melodies. Every hour, quarter, and minute is announced through a symphony of three notes, thanks to the innovative BVL428 caliber carillon. 

Girard-Perregaux Three Flying Bridges

Listen, not every watch presented at Geneva Watch Days is a masterpiece or an impressive feat of artistry and technical ingenuity. But it's the show-stopping releases from luxury brands like Girard-Perregaux that steal the spotlight. Take this stunning version of their Three Flying Bridges watch, now featuring a tourbillon. The transparent bridges that give this watch its name house all the intricate inner workings, held in place within an 18ct pink gold case. At 44mm, some might find it too large, but I see it as the perfect stage for this spectacular display. In a bold move, the bridges are coated in sleek black PVD, complemented by a textured rubber strap, leaving just enough polished edges of pink gold to catch the eye and add a touch of glamor.

Breitling 140th Anniversary Editions of Navitimer, Premier and Chronomat

In perfect timing with Breitling's grand campaign to commemorate its 140th anniversary, the 2024 Geneva Watch Days unveiled three fresh renditions of the manufacture’s signature models. All three timepieces boast the revolutionary Caliber B19 - Breitling's first-ever exclusive perpetual calendar movement and chronograph hybrid. It showcases a full calendar and moonphase function, effortlessly adjusting for leap years and varying month lengths of 28, 30, and 31 days. This remarkable mechanism can operate for nearly a century without requiring major adjustments and boasts a power reserve of approximately 96 hours. The Premier B19 Datora 42 140th Anniversary, crafted with precision from solid 18k red gold, maintains the Premier's recognizable Arabic numerals and striking square pushers. The black alligator leather strap is adorned with subtle yet sophisticated tone-on-tone stitching and secured with an 18k gold folding buckle. The Navitimer B19 Chronograph 43 Perpetual Calendar 140th Anniversary edition boasts a bold display of the iconic slide rule on a luxurious 18k red-gold dial. The alligator leather strap, accented with contrasting stitching, effortlessly fastens with an 18k gold folding buckle. For those seeking a more rugged timepiece, the Super Chronomat B19 44 Perpetual Calendar 140th Anniversary edition features four raised rider tabs at the 15-minute mark, an "onion" crown, and a rubber version of the classic Rouleaux bracelet. Plus, it marks another first for Breitling: a skeletonized dial.

Konstantin Chaykin ThinKing

At Geneva Watch Days 2024, Russian watchmaker Konstantin Chaykin revealed his latest invention - the ThinKing. A prototype of the Wristmons model, this timepiece aims to break records as the thinnest mechanical watch in existence, measuring a mere 1.65mm in thickness. Its sleek and modern design takes inspiration from Chaykin's signature Joker series, with one eye indicating hours and the other reading minutes. Flipping over to the back, we see the intricate K.23-0 movement that powers the watch, boasting an impressive 32-hour reserve and winding mechanism requiring a key. The fusion of two and three-dimensional elements creates a mesmerizing aesthetic for this unique piece, further emphasized by the handwritten inscription above reading "Prototype of the world's thinnest watch by K. Chaykin – 30.08.2024."

De Bethune DB28XS Steel Wheels and DB28XS Aérolite

De Bethune's latest release for Geneva Watch Days 2024 is the revamped DB28XS Steel Wheels. It boasts a compact size, measuring just 39mm with an impressive thickness of 8mm. Despite its smaller frame, this timepiece still maintains the stunning openworked dial that reveals the inner workings of its manually wound caliber DB2115V13. True to the brand's innovative nature, De Bethune has incorporated their signature elements such as a titanium balance wheel, gray gold weights, and a flat terminal curve balance spring into this design. But what truly sets this limited-edition model apart is its dial crafted from Muonionalusta meteorite, which showcases an intricate geometric pattern. While Muonionalusta meteorite may not be entirely new for De Bethune (as it was previously used in the DB25), it adds a special touch to this black zirconium case and miniaturized DB2005 caliber within.

MB&F x L’Epée Albatross

Among the many exciting releases at Geneva Watch Days 2024, MB&F's collaboration with L'Epée stood out – a masterpiece called "Albatross" that boasted an impressive 1,520 components. This timepiece not only displayed the time with a striking hour chime but also featured a first-of-its-kind complication known as "hélices au passage" - an automaton made up of 32 propellers that activated every hour. Designed by Eric Meyer, the inspiration for Albatross came from Jules Verne's novel "Robur the Conqueror", specifically the majestic airship of the same name. The airship's interior is a maze of intricate movements and winding systems. Two separate barrels power the time and chiming hour, while a third barrel fuels the propellers. Winding the first barrel in either a clockwise or anti-clockwise direction will activate the chime or time function, respectively. The second set of propellers at the back are responsible for winding the automaton, which can run for one day. The clock boasts an impressive eight-day running time, with the option to turn off the chiming feature as desired. 

Armin Strom Dual Time GMT Resonance First Edition

The most noteworthy element of this offering from Armin Strom at the Geneva Watch Days 2024 (besides showing off their prowess in resonance) is the size. While the resonance mechanism is not unfamiliar to Armin Strom, this round watch has a diameter of only 39mm, a significant step down from the previous oblong version which measured an immense 59mm by 43.4mm. This feat was achieved by positioning the two distinct movements vertically and streamlining their components for more efficient use of space. The resonance mechanism here, however, is the star of the show. This phenomenon (also known as isochronism, if you’re nasty) is essentially the synchronization of two balance wheels that minimizes the effect of gravity and helps the watch recover quickly from impact – essentially a tourbillon but adjusted for a wristwatch. While, normally, sympathetic resonance can be achieved by connecting the two organs with a baseplate, Armin Strom once again innovates by replacing it with a resonance clutch spring, which allows for a more robust information transfer between the balances. 

Massena Lab x Albishorn Maxigraph

The Massena Lab and independent watchmaker Albishorn joined forces (making the latter’s first appearance at Geneva Watch Days) to reveal the Maxigraph, a regatta timer (essentially a reverse chronograph) that pays homage to the aesthetic codes of yesteryear. With these spirits of good ol’ days in mind, the Maxigraph envisions what a modern-day regatta chronograph would have looked like in the 1930s. Meticulously crafted within its 39mm stainless steel case, this watch boasts a unique patented ten-minute retrograde regatta countdown at the 7 o'clock position, designed to halt after ten minutes while the chronograph's seconds continue ticking. The mechanism is powered by a Swiss-made proprietary caliber and features a 41mm bidirectional rotating bezel and 100-meter water resistance.

Czapek & Cie. Antarctique Polar Sky and Flying Diamonds

During this year's Geneva Watch Days, Czapek & Cie. dazzled the crowd with their latest evolution of the Antarctique collection, showcasing two new limited-edition models: Antarctique Polar Sky and Antarctique S Polar Sky. These models boast stunning aventurine glass dials, available in both 40.5mm and 38.5mm sizes. The glass alone is a marvel to behold on the dial, but for those seeking even more opulence, the Antarctique Flying Diamonds and Antarctique S Flying Diamonds feature diamond-set indexes and optional diamond-encrusted cases and bracelets. Not only that, but the innovative Antarctique cut diamonds with 24 facets add an extra touch of luxury and sparkle to these already exquisite timepieces.

Jacob & Co. Oil Pump

It has been half a decade since Jacob & Co. first released their groundbreaking Oil Pump watch, featuring a mesmerizing automaton that depicts the workings of oil derricks. Now, at Geneva Watch Days 2024, they have revealed an even more advanced edition. While still retaining the captivating 35-second bobbing motion of the derricks, this new version boasts a more compact case with a diameter reduced from 49.5 mm to 44 mm and a height cut down from 20 mm to 18 mm. The hand-wound caliber JCAM53 movement of 450 components, is housed within a domed sapphire crystal and includes a 60-second flying tourbillon. The automaton itself, crafted in solid rose gold and featuring derricks, barrels, and pipelines, can be activated by a pusher at 1:30 o’clock. This limited edition piece will only have 88 available for purchase.

Daniel Roth Tourbillon Rose Gold

For Geneva Watch Days this year, Daniel Roth unveils a revamped version of its legendary Tourbillon. Cast in rose gold, this edition features a transparent caseback, offering a glimpse into the intricate inner workings of the in-house DR001 movement. With only 50 pieces released annually, this new model boasts a striking pink-on-pink color scheme – a rose gold dial complemented by a matching case – providing a modern take on the classic silver and gray dials of the past. Building upon the success of its predecessor, the yellow gold Souscription model, the rose gold Tourbillon incorporates several subtle yet impactful upgrades. The dial now showcases a ligne or straight-line guilloché pattern, replacing the hobnail design of previous models. However, the true star of this timepiece is undoubtedly the DR001 movement, crafted by renowned watchmakers La Fabrique du Temps. Visible through the sapphire case back, this hand-wound marvel boasts an impressive 80-hour power reserve and displays impeccable finishing techniques including polished black components and intricate bridge work.

Ming 20.01 Series 3

The Ming Watches 20.01 Series 3 made a groundbreaking debut with its fused borosilicate dial, featuring a composition of silica and boron oxide that had never been seen before in watchmaking. This unique dial boasts 600 voids arranged in a symmetrical radial pattern, created using cutting-edge laser technology developed by Femtoprint SA. These voids are illuminated by Super-LumiNova X1, giving off a striking glow that makes the watch appear to be floating and showcasing the intricate movement. Speaking of, the Agenhor AgenGraphe caliber is equipped with advanced features such as a central chronograph core, backlash-free gears, and a horizontal clutch mechanism exclusive to this brand. Completing the luxurious package is an anthracite goat leather strap with Alcantara lining and a rose gold buckle from Jean Rousseau Paris.