Her Hour: Hind Seddiqi's New Vision

One doesn’t have to be a seasoned horological expert to see that the watch industry is ruled by…well…veterans. The lion's share of the brands that dictate trends and write the rules belong to the people born into them – these are the guardians of hundreds of years old legacy and sacred knowledge. Noble and grandiose though it may sound, the monarchical, almost, structures that hold Swiss watchmaking in place, are, by default, closed off to fresh perspectives or talent from the outsiders that could make the whole industry more robust, competitive, and, frankly, exciting. 
 

That’s precisely why talking about and engaging with independent watchmakers is more crucial than ever. Dubai Watch Week (DWW) with its flagship initiative Horology Forum, is one such institution that vows to support independent watchmaking and provide young, talented artists, craftsmen, and engineers with the support they need to make a mark. 

“Dubai Watch Week started in 2015 but the idea came after we hosted the GPHG-nominated watches the year before,” says CEO Hind Seddiqi, “we invited the collectors to come and learn about the awards, categories and how and why these watches were winning.” She also explains how, even before Dubai hosted a touring GPHG exhibition for the first time a decade ago, she and her team would take collectors and watch enthusiasts to visit notable manufactures in Geneva, “and witness their transformation after touring these factories – they were mesmerized.” Seeing this power of learning firsthand served as an inspiration for Hind Seddiqi to develop the concept further. 

“Organizing tours wasn’t enough, obviously,” the CEO continues, “a lot of the collectors wanted to meet the watchmakers themselves, and we wanted to introduce them to the independent players.” The focus of both DWW and Horology Forum is, above all, education. And having diverse voices represented is one of its foundational tenets. This, Hind Seddiqi believes, levels the playing field between the independent brands and those backed by retailers or conglomerates, “We were so happy to launch a platform that wasn’t forced to promote or only talk about the messaging of a certain house and were able to encourage the questions that aren’t normally asked in the watch world.” She mentions DWW and Horology Forum don’t shun discussing controversies, posing head-on questions about sustainability, and more.  

Hind Seddiqi is also determined for her platforms to not only amplify female voices in the industry but also to act as safe spaces, in which women can learn about watches without judgment. “During DWW, we often collaborate with Watch Femme [a Swiss non-profit dedicated to promoting women’s voices across the watch world] and curate special experiences for women,” she says, “And, at HF10, we also ensure we have female voices represented during the panels.” 

This year, the 10th edition of the Horology Forum (HF10) took place in Hong Kong, because “there’s just so much of watch knowledge in the city,” says Hind Seddiqi, “As far as the pre-owned market is concerned, it’s like a treasure hunt here!” She also mentions HF10’s collaboration with Wristcheck on the “East Meets West” exhibition of rare watches as one of the highlights of the three-day event. On the opening day of the Forum, after a series of thought-provoking panels and workshops (including a lume painting class, hosted by Wristcheck’s very own watchmaker-in-residence Peter Glomb), Hind Seddiqi and Revolution’s founder Wei Koh announced the Dubai Watch Week x Grail Watch Design Competition aimed to “discover and foster the next generation of watch design talent”. The theme of the first iteration of the competition is Shaped Watches, and the submissions are open until December 31st. 

As someone who’s spent her life surrounded by watches (as an heiress to Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons retail empire, specializing in Swiss timepieces), Hind Seddiqi has developed an impeccable horological taste, gravitating towards special and often inconspicuous pieces, “you will not find the usual suspects in my collection,” she laughs. As a veritable champion of independent watchmaking, she owns a few UAE limited editions created in collaboration with Bovet, H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Centre Seconds; F.P. Journe and Daniel Roth are also some of the brands she gravitates towards. But that’s not to say that DWW’s CEO doesn’t dabble in the offerings of bigger players in the industry – she still owns a Rolex Daytona with a black mother-of-pearl dial, Chopard’s limited-edition Elton John Foundation Chronograph and a Van Cleef & Arpels Alhambra pendant watch. And, during our conversation, she’s wearing a now-discontinued Patek Philippe Calatrava Skeleton 5180 in white gold. “It’s hard to tell if it’s Patek because it doesn’t have the signature emblem on the crown,” she adds, “and it’s always fascinating to wear a Skeleton.” 

And while the buying behavior of female customers is evolving (women are now more eager to purchase men’s or unisex watches or complicated pieces, according to Wristcheck’s sales data), Hind Seddiqi still sees incredible potential in traditionally feminine pieces. “Ladies’ watches remain an investment-worthy category,” she explains, “If you look at Van Cleef & Arpels and their Poetic Complications line, for example, it has both storytelling and an advanced technical side. And, while I would wear a men’s watch, my mother, for example, would gravitate towards a bejeweled secret watch that looks like a bracelet.” 

While high watchmaking is, by default, aspirational, it doesn’t have to be exclusionary. If we were to look at the example of our fashion brothers and sisters, we’d see that one city or country doesn’t have to be the sole capital of the craft, and the people who represent this craft don’t have to look the same or share similar backgrounds. And, if the end goal is to democratize this industry we love so much, then listening to voices like Hind Seddiqi and paying close attention to her platforms could take us a step closer.