Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Selfwinding Chronograph in Gold & Ceramic
Determined to grow the Code 11.59's legacy, AP has doubled down on the collection with two new models that continue to push its aesthetic identity. Is the Code 11.59 finally going to start winning some plaudits? Let's find out!
Tough Crowd
Released in 2019, the Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 was not treated to a very warm welcome upon its debut. While there was some issues with the collection’s design, the Code 11.59 was scrutinised far more than it deserved to be. The initial Code 11.59 collection featured 13 references ranging from time only models all the way up to minute repeaters with a litany of various designs, colourways and materials – an impressive feat for a new collection. But, like a phoenix from the ashes, it is safe to say the Code 11.59 is on the rise and working its way through its initial criticisms and becoming a mainstream model.
Following on from its early days, the Code 11.59 has had to endure some growing pains. While I will admit that I didn't exactly love some of the earlier models, I did feel the majority of criticisms surrounding the Code 11.59 were unwarranted, and the watches we have now have come a long way from the earlier models. Sure, it had its issues, but AP's goal for the Code 11.59 was clear – they were creating a new watch with its own identity, and it was always intended to be a work in progress. Personally, I think the new Code 11.59s, not just the latest two variants, have been quite strong. And, going by the sales I would wager AP are inclined to agree.
Never one to succumb to negative reception, AP has demonstrated that they will stick with the Code 11.59 just like they did with the Royal Oak back in 1972. A bit like the Code 11.59 now, the Royal Oak was laughed at and was thought to be a miss. AP has been developing the Code 11.59 collection relentlessly by adding even more complications, experimenting with new dial designs and trying new material combinations. Love it or hate it, you must admit the Code 11.59 collection has come a long way since its early days and is shaping up to be quite the collection.
2021 Novelties
Following the topsy-turvy year that was 2020, it was nice to know the novelties we have been waiting for would be released when we expected them. With the current situation long-established, brands have had their 2021 roadmaps pretty well thought out and made them pandemic-proof, so to speak. Just like most years, AP's novelties were stunning. With an array of new green dials, a new collection of Royal Oak Offshore Divers, amongst other things, it was quite the treat. However, lest we forget why we're here, the two new Code 11.59's Self-Winding Chronographs.
The Growing Case for the Code 11.59
As the Code 11.59 collection has built up over the past few years, its true potential has grown too. The two latest models join other variants of the family in adding something new to the collection. While the mechanics aren't new and the dials aren't totally new either, the two latest Code 11.59's add new case materials to the collection instead. With both of the variants featuring either 18kt white or rose gold cases, their mid-case is where the magic lies – they're made of ceramic. As the collection grows older, its design merit seems to grow alongside it. Personally, I think these two latest additions build on the Code 11.59's foundation quite nicely. Say what you will; I think these two models are pretty appealing.
The New Case
The Code 11.59's 41mm case is often touted as the most complex case design AP has ever created. With its ultra-thin bezel, doubled curved sapphire crystal and hollowed lugs, the complexity arising from the case's three-piece construction was perhaps lost. As a way of bringing some attention back to it, AP has introduced a black ceramic mid-case to both the white and rose gold variants of the new Code 11.59.
Created in collaboration with Bangerter, a manufacturer famed for their work with precision components made of advanced ceramics, the Code 11.59's middle case has been crafted from tungsten carbide and a plethora of other super-tough materials by the very best in the business. The process begins with Zirconium Oxide powder which is combined with a binder to create a blank. This blank is then machined and given a rough shape before the binder is removed. Following some time in a rather hot oven, the components are then hard machined with high-precision diamond tools before the satin, and polished surfaces are finished by hand to create the finished product, as we see here in these two watches.
Identical to both models, the ceramic and gold components of the Code 11.59's cases have been all hand-finished with AP's trademark alternation between satin-brushing and polished chamfers.
Finished to the detail expected of a brand like AP, it must be said that to finish two completely different materials that exist beside one another to an identical standard is quite the feat and not something we should overlook. The result in the case of the two new Code 11.59's is that their cases provide as much visual intrigue as their incredible dials.
The New Dial
Another design element AP decided to keep consistent between the two models is their dials. Both the 18kt rose gold (ref. 26393NR.OO.A002CA.01) and white gold (26393NB.OO.A002CA.01) feature the same dark grey fumé dial. With a vertical satin-finished base that matches the satin-brushing adorning the case and providing a kind of sunburst aesthetic to the dial, these dials are quite striking. With dark black chronograph subdials and inner bezel providing further visual depth to the dial, the watch-specific dial furniture offers a tangible link between the dial and the watch case. The 18kt rose gold model receives 18kt rose gold hands, indices, numerals, and subdial peripheries, while the 18kt white gold model receives the same, just made in white gold.
The Consistencies
The two completely unchanged elements of these two references is the movement within them and the straps used to hold them to your wrist. The straps are black textile straps featuring a rubber coating and case-matching precious metal pin buckles. Common amongst the collection, these straps could be improved, I think. They don't fit the precious metal very well, so I would swap them for black alligator leather straps, but that's just me.
Beyond the straps, the two models both feature AP's beautifully finished in-house calibre 4401 movement, which is proudly displayed behind an exhibition caseback on each model. Fitted with an integrated automatic flyback chronograph, a column wheel, vertical clutch and 70 hours of power reserve, AP have an incredible movement on their hands that will provide a strong base for future expansion going forward.
Conclusion
While it would be easy for me to base my opinion of the new Code 11.59's on relatively small design issues like their weak hands and indices, and rather strange font, I think that would be lazy. Sure, these are well-documented issues, and I do think they need to be addressed, but they don't ruin the watch for me. I honestly think these two watches are excellent. The case design is spectacular, the finishing is out of this world, the movements are technically impressive, and the dials are stunning.
While I do think what I just mentioned before could be improved, no watch is perfect, and these two timepieces have given the Code 11.59 a pretty strong showing amongst this incredible batch of AP novelties. Will these models sell-out and command waiting lists? Probably not, but I do think they are aiding the growing community-wide acceptance of the Code 11.59, and as a fan of AP, I think that can only be a good thing. It’s not often that a brand like AP releases a completely new collection, so it was always going to need tweaking. Considering where the Code 11.59 began and how it is turning out, AP have done a pretty spectacular job if you ask me.
Specifications
Watch name: Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Selfwinding Chronograph in Gold & Ceramic
Reference number: White Gold 26393NB.OO.A002KB.01 / Rose Gold 26393NR.OO.A002KB.01
Case size: 41 mm
Thickness: 12.6 mm
Material: Black ceramic case, 18-carat white or pink gold bezel, lugs and caseback
Crystal: Double-curved sapphire crystal
Water-resistance: 30 m
Movement: Calibre 4401
Functions: Flyback chronograph, hours, minutes, small seconds and date
Winding: Selfwinding
Frequency: 4 hz 28800 vph
Power reserve: 70 h
Strap: Black rubber-coated strap with 18-carat white or rose gold pin buckle
Availability: AP Boutiques (May 2021)
Price: CHF 41,700 (HKD $353,941)
For more information, visit Audemars Piguet online.
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