Rolex and the GMT-Bling-Master: A Journey Through Sparkling Time

Rolex’s venture into gem-set sports watches with the Rolex SARU was groundbreaking, fundamentally altering how people perceived its timepieces. Whilst Rolex was already known for its gem-encrusted Day-Date watches, introducing such opulence to a sports watch was revolutionary. It signaled a shift in the world of horology, turning sports watches into true luxury objects; a move that has created a subset of Rolex collecting that is hotter than hot!

By now, we all know what SARU stands for in the world of Rolex; it’s an acronym for GMT-Masters adorned with 'SA'pphires and 'RU'bies. These luxurious timepieces reinterpret the iconic Rolex “Pepsi” bezel, traditionally characterized by its blue and red color scheme. The blue upper half of the bezel is set with blue sapphires, while the red lower half features a semi-circle of trapeze-cut rubies. To keep track of the hours, Rolex integrated trapeze-cut diamonds for each hour marker from one to eleven, and a triangle-cut diamond at the 12 o'clock position.

Old Gold

The journey of the yellow gold GMT-Master began in the mid-1950s with reference 6542, which evolved into reference 1675/8 by the decade’s end. In 1979, the GMT-Master transitioned to reference 16758, retaining its plastic crystal but introducing a quick-set date feature. Then, in the mid-1980s, like the proverbial ugly duckling (which was, to be fair, never actually ugly!), Rolex transformed the GMT-Master into the SARU, with its extravagant new look. The OG SARU boasted a fully paved dial with blue sapphire hour markers and a yellow gold President bracelet set with 12 brilliant-cut diamonds on each center-link.

Other notable gem-set sports watches from this era include the manually wound Daytona models, references 6269 and 6279. These models were distinct, each given a unique reference number: 6269 for the brilliant-set diamond bezel and 6279 for the baguette diamond bezel. The SARU, however, shared its reference with the regular yellow gold GMT, making it essentially a modified version of a production watch with a unique dial, bezel, and bracelet. Despite this, the SARU remains a rare and coveted piece, with only around three dozen known to exist.

Modern Moments

Two decades after the original SARU was launched, Rolex revisited and revamped the concept. In 2005, the GMT-Master II was relaunched as reference 116518 in yellow gold, celebrating the 50th anniversary of the GMT-Master. This updated model featured a more robust case, with thicker lugs, and marked the debut of the Cerachrom bezel, Rolex’s new ceramic material. The following year, Rolex introduced the 116758 SARU, now with a unique reference number denoting its gem-set nature. This model featured a bezel with 18 trapeze-cut rubies, 18 trapeze-cut sapphires, 11 trapeze-cut diamonds for the hour markers, and a triangle-cut diamond at 12 o'clock. 

The new SARU lineup included the 116758 SARU, with sapphire and ruby bezel with a brilliant-cut diamond-set case. There was also a reference 116758 SA that had a sapphire and diamond bezel with a brilliant-cut diamond-set case and finally the 116758 SANR, which had a diamond bezel with black sapphire hour markers and a brilliant-cut diamond-set case. These second-generation SARU models featured diamond-set cases, with brilliant-cut diamonds on the lugs and crown guards. 

There were further bling-options with these yellow gold models with the most basic being a gem-set bezel and case with a plain dial and yellow gold Oyster bracelet. It was possible to add a pave dial featuring 428 diamonds and also a yellow gold Oyster bracelet, complete with pave-set center links.

Rolex has a history of creating watches for specific markets, and a limited number of GMT-Masters were produced for the Greater China market as stripped-back SARU models. Around 2014/15, the reference 116748 was introduced, featuring a sapphire and ruby bezel with a plain dial and case. This more understated version of the SARU had its unique charm while maintaining a touch of luxury.

A particularly notable moment in the SARU saga was when my friend Eric Ku showcased a white gold GMT-Master on Instagram. This model, reminiscent of the popular BLNR steel GMT-Master known as the Batman, featured a plain dial and a bezel set with blue and black trapeze-cut sapphires. Dubbed the "Bruce Wayne," this model added a sophisticated twist to the Batman theme. With only around 20 examples produced, the reference 116749 SABLNR (sapphires bleu et noire) stands as a testament to Rolex's innovative spirit.

In 2007, Rolex began offering the gem-set GMTs in white gold with a 116759 SARU that wore a sapphire and ruby bezel with a brilliant-cut diamond-set case. There was also, like the gold models, a 116759 SA with sapphire and diamond bezel with a brilliant-cut diamond-set case and the 116759 SANR which was adorned with a diamond bezel with black sapphire hour markers and a diamond-set case. Like their yellow gold counterparts, these white gold versions could also be augmented with pave dials and bracelets. The collection expanded further in 2019 with the introduction of the Everose gold version, reference 126755, which followed the same pattern but only offered SARU bezels.

Limited Gems

Rolex has a history of creating watches for specific markets, and a limited number of GMT-Masters were produced for the Greater China market as stripped-back SARU models. Around 2014/15, the reference 116748 was introduced, featuring a sapphire and ruby bezel with a plain dial and case. This more understated version of the SARU had its unique charm while maintaining a touch of luxury.

A particularly notable moment in the SARU saga was when my friend Eric Ku showcased a white gold GMT-Master on Instagram. This model, reminiscent of the popular BLNR steel GMT-Master known as the Batman, featured a plain dial and a bezel set with blue and black trapeze-cut sapphires. Dubbed the "Bruce Wayne," this model added a sophisticated twist to the Batman theme. With only around 20 examples produced, the reference 116749 SABLNR (sapphires bleu et noire) stands as a testament to Rolex's innovative spirit.

The pinnacle of opulence in the GMT-Master lineup is undeniably the reference 116769 TBR, a white gold GMT-Master covered entirely in diamonds. Valued at $500,000, this timepiece features a case, dial, and bracelet encrusted with diamonds, including trapeze-cut diamonds on the bezel. Known as the "Ice Master," this watch exemplifies Rolex's mastery in blending luxury with the robust functionality of a sports watch and is still, to date, the most expensive watch offered by Rolex!