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All articles featuring the Patek Philippe Nautilus

Nautilus

Is The Tiffany Dial Still Riding The Wave?

What’s All The Fuss About Custom Watches?

Showcasing the first-ever complication in the Nautilus collection, the Ref. 5740 is a horological firepower. Today, we deep-dive into this dynamic timepiece, which is not just a sports icon but also an extremely complicated offering from Patek Philippe
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The Patek Philippe Nautilus is a watch that I have waxed lyrical about for years now. It was the first Patek Philippe model that I fell in love with when I began to discover high-end luxury watchmaking, and this was long before the current state of market affairs, whereby you almost have to apologise for even thinking about this unobtainable timepiece. Nevertheless, with its unusual octagonal case, somewhat-grounded stainless steel construction and unusual design, it was a watch that I really connected with.

At the time, I was rather new to the world of watchmaking and the Nautilus Ref. 5711 was a Patek Philippe model that I felt like I could wear straight away without the need to understand any of the complexities that a traditional complication-clad Patek Philippe might come along with. Granted, I was new to the hobby and certainly wasn’t in the market for a Nautilus, but I made a genuine connection with the watch all the same. It was the Patek that I appreciated the most. But, perhaps driven by my naivety rather than anything else, I just liked the watch for its face value, which was all that mattered. I didn’t know about its history, mechanics, craftsmanship or anything else. Those were all facets of the Nautilus that I have had to learn over time.

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<img alt="Ref. 3800" data-caption="Patek Philippe's Ref. 3800 was&amp;nbsp;launched as a mid-sized variant in the Nautilus line" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="1e931552-4cb2-4986-be42-338cc7e8348d" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/111/Untitled%2520design_0.png" width="1568" />
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So, over the years, I have developed a better understanding of the complexities that surround and occupy complicated watches, while also learning about the Nautilus’ history and the environment that surrounded its release in the 1970s. With those learnings, I began to cast my eye out from the time and date-only Ref. 5711 and onto the shores of its complicated neighbours. Don’t get me wrong; I love the Ref. 5711, I genuinely do, but there is one Nautilus that marries my love of everything that drove me to the Ref. 5711 in the first place with the learnings I have made over the last few years, the Patek Philippe Nautilus Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5740G is that watch.

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<h3>Some Nautilus History</h3>

While I’m sure the majority of us have heard the story by now, the Nautilus’ history is too important just to skip entirely. Designed by Gerald Genta and launched in 1976, it was a direct response to Audemars Piguet’s very own Gerald Genta-designed paradigm-shifting Royal Oak. The Nautilus was a luxury stainless steel sports watch that sought to fight fire with fire. In its early days, it was ultimately failing until Patek decided to launch a mid-sized variant, the Ref. 3800.

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<img alt="Ref. 3700" data-caption="Thanks to its 42mm case size, the Patek Philippe Ref. 3700 was dubbed &quot;Jumbo.&quot;&amp;nbsp;Photo: Perkin Yu/ Wristcheck" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="3156f00a-9400-4a39-a7de-4650743df5bb" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/111/20211223_wristcheck1523.jpg" width="1568" />
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With this smaller 37.5mm model, they brought the Nautilus a little bit closer to the refined proportions that Patek Philippe was known for and ultimately got the Nautilus on wrists. Where the larger 42mm “Jumbo” Ref. 3700 was failing, the Ref. 3800 succeeded. In the same vein, the modern Nautilus Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5740 brings the Nautilus collection back to home base and allows the Nautilus to exist as a fully-fledged Patek Philippe family member. While it took them a while to get there, I love the Ref. 5740G for the simple fact that it represents exactly what Patek Philippe are known for; exquisite luxury watchmaking that cuts no corners while remaining true to the beautiful design that sucked me into the Nautilus in the first place.

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<h3>The Nautilus Perpetual Calendar 5740G</h3>

Launched in 2018, the Ref. 5740G represented the absolute peak of the Nautilus’ watchmaking guile. While other models have featured chronographs, annual calendars and second time zones, the Ref. 5740G brings the Nautilus into the world of true haute horology as the collection’s first grand complication. Acceptably, it is a deviation from the Nautilus’ simple roots as a sports watch, but the Ref. 5740G wonderfully represents the Nautilus’ evolution through time.

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<img alt="Ref. 5740G" data-caption="Photo: Perkin Yu/ Wristcheck" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="ca63494e-4304-4849-9235-140a65cc9ba9" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/111/WCL_0255_0.jpg" width="1568" />
The watch market isn’t static; collectors want to be amazed, and like my own journey through watchmaking has taught me, there is a lot more to appreciate than just the initial connection you make with a watch. In fact, there is so much more. The heritage, mechanics, craftsmanship and everything else that I once overlooked are put on centre stage by the Ref. 5740G, so let’s explore them as they deserve to be explored.

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<img alt="Ref. 5740G" data-caption="Photo: Perkin Yu/ Wristcheck" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="171806dc-f6a6-4c4c-8e59-b9568e404419" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/111/WCL_0214_ver.1.0.jpg" width="1568" />
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<h3>The Construction</h3>

Easily the Nautilus’ most famed aspect is its construction. Made entirely of 18kt white gold, the Ref. 5740G pays homage to the Nautilus’ stainless steel aesthetic while still retaining the absolute luxury of a precious metal construction. Like the complexity of its movement, this steely construction is a subtle “if you know you know” move by the famed Genevan watchmaker.

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<img alt="Ref. 5740G" data-caption="Photo: Perkin Yu/ Wristcheck" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="41196948-742a-4b30-b5b9-8450973bdb2d" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/111/WCL_0302_2.jpg" width="1568" />
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With a 40mm porthole-inspired case, integrated bracelet with polished centre links and gently polished bevels on its flanks and a thick polished bevel along the periphery of its octagonal bezel, the Ref. 5740G is absolutely immaculate, and the stunning glow of its 18k white gold works perfectly with the mix of surface finishes.

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<h3>The Dial</h3>

Just like the 18k white gold case appears only slightly different to the Nautilus’ usual stainless steel, the Ref. 5740G sports a beautiful blue dial that is, in fact, several shades lighter than the Nautilus’ traditional blue dial. While the Ref. 5711 and other Nautilus variants sport dark blue dials with a hint of grey, the Ref. 5740G's blue dial sports a sunburst finish that results in a wonderful effect on the wrist.&nbsp;

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<img alt="Ref. 5740G" data-caption="As the collection's first grand complication, the Ref. 5740G elevates the Nautilus to the level of true haute horology&amp;nbsp;Photo: Perkin Yu/ Wristcheck" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="9914c793-34ea-424f-83ca-df1ce15175c6" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/111/WCL_0236_0.jpg" width="1568" />
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The Ref. 5740G’s dial also features the Nautilus’ iconic horizontal embossing and applied indices with bright white lume and inscriptions. With three subdials, each containing two displays, the Ref. 5740G reads the day of the week, the date, the month, the leap year, the time on a 24-hour scale (also known as an AM/PM indicator) and the phase of the moon in the night sky. A far stretch from the hours, minutes and date-only display of the original Nautilus, the Ref. 3700, the Ref. 5740G, like I said, embodies the decades of improvement and evolution that have gone into the Nautilus.

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<h3>The Movement</h3>

As part of its busy dial, the Ref. 5740G also sports the most complicated movement to ever feature in the Nautilus collection, Patek Philippe’s automatic Cal. 240 Q. With its eponymous perpetual calendar function, it is a heavy-hitting movement and quite an impressive one at that. Standing just 3.88mm tall, it is incredibly thin considering all the functions it offers.

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<img alt="Ref. 5740G" data-caption="Powering the&amp;nbsp;Nautilus Perpetual Calendar 5740G is calibre 240 Q, an ultra-thin movement created back in the 1970s&amp;nbsp;Photo: Perkin Yu/ Wristcheck" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="4209f952-7a56-4d2c-8401-54fc45462591" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/111/WCL_0278_0.jpg" width="1568" />
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On display behind an exhibition caseback, its 22k yellow gold micro-rotor weight acts as the main visual draw that the old me would have been fixated on. Still, its beautiful finishing, such as its côtes de Genève engraving, anglage, perlage, polished screws and so on, are all subtle tells of its pristine quality that I have grown to appreciate over the years.

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<h3>My Take-Aways</h3>

A genuinely fantastic watch, the Ref. 5740G is a testament to the versatility within the Nautilus’ design – in terms of its ability to work as a sports watch as well as an extremely complicated luxury icon in precious metal. It’s a watch I’ll always yearn to own and I can’t help but feel that my appreciation for the Ref. 5740G will only grow over time as I continue to learn more and deepen my understanding of watchmaking and its many facets.
<img alt="Ref. 5740G" data-caption="The Ref. 5740G boasts the famous Nautilus horizontal embossing design, making it a grand debut and one of the sportiest models from Patek Philippe&amp;nbsp;Photo: Perkin Yu/ Wristcheck" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="d226c6c1-87ba-4fe3-b13d-2747bbe6e8fa" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/111/WCL_0310_1.jpg" width="1568" />
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The Patek Philippe Ref. 5740 Nautilus Perpetual Calendar

Hot on the heels of the latest ‘LVMH’ Nautilus reveal, we consider not one but three earlier iterations of Patek’s (now-discontinued) 5711 – all bearing the name of America’s preeminent jeweller
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In the rarefied world of Patek Philippe collecting – with its panoply of scarcity, drama, and constant brinkmanship – few watches elicit the same spell of enchantment that the Nautilus does. Patek’s (in)famous luxury sports watch has gone through a handful of iterations over the years, with the most recent being the <a href="https://www.nytimes.com/2021/12/06/fashion/watches-patek-philippe-nautilus-tiffany.html">5711 ‘Tiffany Blue’</a> —&nbsp;something of a commemorative salute to the 170-year history shared by two of the biggest names in consumer luxury. Available solely at three Tiffany locations in the continental US, it is injecting even more vigour into the discussion surrounding what is (undoubtedly) the most notorious, hotly contested sports watch of our times. (As multiple media outlets have indicated, the inclusion of the ‘LVMH’ easter egg in this release’s commemorative branding is guaranteed to stoke even more speculation.)&nbsp;&nbsp;

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<img alt="Wristcheck" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="698e3870-6c38-438d-b305-37315336b35f" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/79/20211116_wristcheck73557_0.jpg" width="1568" />

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That begs the question: how do you make what is already the watch world’s most desirable reference even rarer? As it turns out – through the addition of some well-placed, secondary branding. This month, we have the pleasure to showcase just such a 5711; or if we’re being pedantic, three versions of it, all bearing the signature of ‘Tiffany &amp; Co.’.&nbsp;

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<img alt="Wristcheck" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="4f4740ef-12a8-45cc-bbf6-38a939f01528" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/79/20211116_wristcheck73727_0.jpg" width="1568" />

<h3> 
A History of Friendship</h3>

Though Patek has a storied tradition of working with retailers around the globe (Cartier and Asprey are some of the bigger names which spring to mind), its association with Tiffany &amp; Co. is by far its most famous, <a href="https://www.gq.com/story/patek-philippe-tiffany-dial-kelly-yoch">often to the point of controversy.</a> The two luxury brands’ long-running partnership began in 1851, when the eponymous Antoine Patek met Charles Tiffany on the final leg of one of his regular US-wide promotional tours. The two reportedly became fast friends: by the time Patek returned to Switzerland, he discovered Tiffany had already committed to purchasing 150 watches. The rest, as they say, is history.&nbsp;

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<img alt="Wristcheck" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="cc14aedc-9c3c-44d1-935f-c41aa3274582" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/79/20211116_wristcheck73488_0.jpg" width="1568" />

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Some 19 years after first meeting, the two entrepreneurs formalised the relationship between their namesake brands, by making Tiffany &amp; Co. an official retailer of Patek Philippe wristwatches. The importance of that gesture cannot be overstated: till this day, Tiffany remains the only company that is authorised to add its own signature to a Patek dial. On occasion, other storied retailers like Beyer Zürich are accorded this privilege, but never as a matter of course and usually through a series of special requests.&nbsp;

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<img alt="Wristcheck" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="ca672a89-26a3-47cb-9865-3bce852c95a6" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/79/20211116_wristcheck73362.jpg" width="1568" />

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Today, Tiffany continues to retail a selection of Patek wristwatches (including various Nautilus references) with the historic ‘double signature’ from four of its flagships, all of which are located in the US. These include outposts in Beverly Hills, San Francisco, Honolulu and, naturally, the brand’s iconic multi-storey flagship in New York on Fifth Avenue (immortalised in the 1961 romcom <a href="https://youtu.be/JuimqB3ofEI?t=54">Breakfast at Tiffany’s</a>).

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<h3><img alt="Wristcheck" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="a49e6f04-22cd-4b38-93e1-967edfb98795" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/79/20211116_wristcheck73618_0.jpg" width="1568" /></h3>

<h3> 
When Two Names Are Better Than One</h3>

The long, rather exclusive nature of the Patek/Tiffany partnership provides a decent framework for understanding why collectors are so enamoured with the resultant double-signed dial. Add to that the public’s seemingly insatiable appetite for luxury sports watches (a category in which the Nautilus is often considered the poster child) and you have the perfect storm of demand and desirability. The other aspect of this equation, perhaps inevitably, centres on market performance.&nbsp;

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<img alt="Wristcheck" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="df23ea05-081a-4a22-9fab-9443e166d392" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/79/20211116_wristcheck73430_0.jpg" width="1568" />

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As compared with their mono-brand counterparts, double-signed 5711s are able to command significant premiums. More so than any of Patek’s other retail partners, this is a phenomenon that rings true for Tiffany: over the past half-decade, basic steel Nautiluses bearing the ‘Tiffany &amp; Co’ signature have hammered for 4-5 times their estimate at auction, indicating widespread confidence amongst collectors in the niche’s longevity.&nbsp;

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<img alt="Wristcheck" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="3e06ebbe-1bff-4c9e-8725-6430e7a20f15" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/79/20211116_wristcheck73443_0.jpg" width="1568" />

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Somewhat less quantifiably – and this is an observation that’s broadly applicable to any watch which is double-signed – the addition of a retailer’s signature is often thought to confer a degree of historicity, dare we even say romance, to the collecting experience. &nbsp;“Collectors are [becoming] increasingly aware of not only what a signature’s font should look like,” says <a href="https://sub.rescapement.com/">Rescapement</a> founder Tony Traina, “but the import codes, hallmarks, engravings or other details that might also be found on a retailer-signed timepiece”. To put it another way, the inclusion of a secondary signature is in and of itself representative of scholarly value.&nbsp;

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<img alt="Wristcheck" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="772057f5-84c1-470b-bed8-365fa223eb59" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/79/20211116_wristcheck73434_0.jpg" width="1568" />

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A further aspect of the double-signed dial’s appeal derives from the manner in which it is usually made. According to Dr. Helmut Crott, author of the influential French language volume Le Cadran, retailers including Tiffany have long applied their own branding to timepieces supplied by Patek – often while partially disassembled and in the place to which they’ve been exported. That in turn has led to some subtle, occasionally collectible discrepancies: relating to font size, style and position of placement on the dial.

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<img alt="Wristcheck" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="8f8f2d27-44a8-4079-98e5-77ee9349509a" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/79/20211116_wristcheck73544.jpg" width="1568" />

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<h3> 
Triple Threat</h3>

Putting these various influential factors into play, the arrival of even a single double-signed 5711 should be considered a big deal. But to have all three versions side-by-side? Now, that isn’t something you see everyday. Per the images above, the variations which are available include: two steel versions with blue and white gradient dials; or a rose gold version fitted with a dial oscillating between light and dark brown.&nbsp;

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<img alt="Wristcheck" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="c68fa8b9-29bf-4b40-8c3c-680a5af4a640" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/79/20211116_wristcheck73744.jpg" width="1568" />

<img alt="Wristcheck" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="84f3b7c5-19d8-4d9d-87f5-94c5a08c4258" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/79/20211116_wristcheck73526.jpg" width="1568" />

<img alt="Wristcheck" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="02a55b63-9d13-4372-a771-07df6590f59a" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/79/20211116_wristcheck73450_0.jpg" width="1568" />

<img alt="Wristcheck" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="b005e232-1bea-4f96-9c82-8680cf0ec13c" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/79/20211116_wristcheck73502.jpg" width="1568" />

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Beyond the inclusion of the (admittedly rare) “Tiffany &amp; Co.” signature, all three of these 5711s remain consistent with the Nautilus modern enthusiasts have come to form such an amorous love-hate relationship with. At a very balanced size of 40mm, the characteristic Nautilus case (with its octagonal bezel and porthole-shaped construction) remains a veritable crowdpleaser on an array of wrists; with that versatility further reinforced by the watch’s clean, classically styled dial.

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<img alt="Wristcheck" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="601e0bcf-dec6-4144-b92c-c5f40a281bda" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/79/20211116_wristcheck73610.jpg" width="1568" />

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In each variation, the Tiffany &amp; Co. signature is incorporated with an eye toward subtlety. As is so often the case with discussions pertaining to style, there’s no one version that is objectively superior. Measuring the height of a single horizontal groove, you get the suspicion that Tiffany’s objective was to make the presence of its own branding sufficiently felt, without detracting from the other elements on the dial. Again, that may go some way toward explaining why the text always stands out from the underlying dial colour and is located in the relatively open expanse above 6 o’clock. Notably, despite the accompanying high amount of contrast, the matte white Nautilus appears to be (to yours truly, at any rate) the most subtle of the bunch: that may perhaps be chalked up to the absence of a colour gradient, an aesthetic feature that creates beautiful interplay between light and hue – especially when combined with the 5711’s ridged dial.&nbsp;

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<img alt="Wristcheck" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="c720bd05-e49c-448a-8669-3b3633e90928" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/79/20211116_wristcheck73339.jpg" width="1568" />

<img alt="Wristcheck" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="c1e00285-b4ec-47c3-8408-4b8082299dac" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/79/20211116_wristcheck73368_0.jpg" width="1568" />

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In yet another show of how double-signed watches are, almost to a fault, concerned with small details, when you flip these Tiffany-signed Nautiluses over, you’ll find the exact same calibre 324 S C that is at the heart of the original, monobrand 5711. In the world of serially produced luxury sports watches, this remains an impressive standard bearer: the rotor, fashioned from solid 21K gold for more efficient winding, is made in Patek’s iconic ‘moustache’ shape; whereas the finishing is uniformly fine enough to have acquired the Geneva seal (visibly engraved on the bridge at 5 o’clock).&nbsp;

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When all is said and done, the key ingredient to the allure of these double-signed 5711s is their rarity. Transpose all the hurdles of buying a standard steel Nautilus into the universe of two iconic luxury brands; and it becomes apparent why so many collectors spend an inordinate length of time chasing these watches. Thanks to seismic shifts in the industry (among them, Patek’s decision to <a href="https://www.gq.com/story/patek-philippe-discontinue-nautilus-5711">discontinue the 5711</a> earlier this year) double-signed fever is unlikely to dissipate any time soon.&nbsp;

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A Trio of Patek Philippe Nautiluses, Tiffany-signed

Welcome back to ‘ICONS’ — a recurring series where we examine some of the most important wristwatches in history. Today, we discuss Gerald Genta’s second most famous design: The famed Patek Philippe Nautilus

It’s hard to talk about the Patek Philippe Nautilus without mentioning the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. Designed by Gerald Genta, the Patek Philippe Nautilus was released in 1976 and constitutes his second most famous design — after the Royal Oak of course — that would become one of the real icons of the watchmaking industry.

The two models arrived on the scene just as the Quartz Revolution was beginning: an event that was putting traditional watchmakers and brands out of business. They were released in steel (usually&nbsp;a material reserved for more affordable timepieces) and priced higher than many gold models being produced at the time. As time-only watches, they were also a far cry from the sports models of the&nbsp;time, which were mainly purpose-driven (e.g. for diving and racing), with complications built to meet a certain challenge.&nbsp;

Indubitably, the Royal Oak and the Nautilus' most significant achievement&nbsp;was&nbsp;the formation&nbsp;of an entirely new segment within the market: the luxury sports watch.

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<h3>1976, The First Nautilus: Ref. 3700</h3>

Because it arrived on the market four years after the Royal Oak, many called the Nautilus out for copying what Audemars Piguet did a few years prior. You could argue that there are similarities, but the Nautilus in fact had its own design language: a case inspired by a ship’s porthole and “ears” on the sides that served to attach the bezel to the case, thus creating only one opening. As a result, both the movement and dial of the Nautilus were raised from the front of the case.

Speaking of the movement, the Ref. 3700 was powered by the self-winding calibre 28-255. This was derived from the famous Caliber 920: developed in 1967 by Jaeger-LeCoultre, and subsequently co-opted by Vacheron Constantin, Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet.

Part of the Nautilus’s appeal — and now, an iconic element of the watch — &nbsp;was the ribbed dial, characterised by the presence of thick horizontal grooves.&nbsp;

Due to its large 42mm case size — rather big for the 1970s — interest for the Nautilus didn’t accelerate until the introduction of a smaller case size.

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<h3>1981, The Mid-Sized Nautilus: Ref. 3800</h3>
<img alt="Wristcheck" data-caption="Nautilus Ref. 3800 in steel" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="d30190d2-04f8-42f5-9207-4d1e0a511025" data-image-style="" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/14/IMG_5534.jpg" /><img alt="Wristcheck" data-caption="Nautilus Ref. 3800 in yellow gold" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="dd58852a-9e1d-4b4a-8ff3-3593ab600153" data-image-style="" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/14/JUN_5514_0.jpg" />
At 37.5mm, the mid-sized 3800 was more in line with the times, and the smaller luxury timepieces Patek Philippe was making. Between the 3700 and 3800, the changes weren’t huge: the downscaled model retained the design of the original watch, while the look of the dial remained unchanged.&nbsp;

The main visual difference was the addition of a central seconds hand to accompany the hours and minutes. This also meant that Patek had changed the movement inside the watch. At its heart was the in-house Patek Philippe Caliber 335 — finished to the highest standards of the Maison.&nbsp;

Just like the original 3700, the 3800 was also produced in a variety of different metals: including steel, gold, and two-tone (both). Even the 3800 got a revamped dial in 1996, with Patek introducing&nbsp;a plain, matte-black dial with Roman numerals, breaking free from the signature ribbed dial design that had been&nbsp;present since the Nautilus’ release in 1976.

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<h3>1998, Complications &amp; Back To Basics: Ref. 3710</h3>
<img alt="Wristcheck" data-caption="Nautilus Ref. 3710" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="ef591ead-4dbf-4ce7-9d9f-b612e05f5167" data-image-style="" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/14/593A1479_0_0.jpg" />
As years went by and the market became more accepting of larger watches — with AP launching the Royal Oak Offshore in 1993 — Patek Philippe decided to reintroduce the Nautilus’ original 42mm size. However, simply adjusting the case size would have been too simple, so the Maison decided to introduce, for the first time, complications to the lineup.&nbsp;

The original 3700 was discontinued in 1990, so for about 8 years, the largest Nautilus available was the 37.5mm 3800. The reintroduction of the 42mm Nautilus was&nbsp;a welcome addition to the collection. The model brought with it a power reserve indicator at 12 o’clock, which meant that the ‘Patek Philippe’ signature had to be moved to the lower 6 o’clock position, a first in the Nautilus collection. Surprisingly, the 3710 was produced in only one version: steel with a black dial.

Here would be a good time to make a small detour&nbsp;by bringing up&nbsp;the Ref. 3712. Introduced in 2005&nbsp;and produced for only one short year before being replaced by the 5712,&nbsp;the 3712 introduced other complications to the Nautilus for the first time. Notable features included a power reserve at 10:30; a moonphase &amp; date at 7; and a small second at 4.

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<h3>2006, The Modern Nautilus: Ref. 5711</h3>
<img alt="Wristcheck" data-caption="Front of Nautilus Ref. 5711" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="dcba3821-0c18-48bf-b2ce-f6903937784a" data-image-style="" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/14/593A0739%2520%25282%2529.jpg" /><img alt="Wristcheck" data-caption="Back of Nautilus Ref. 5711" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="ce9cacc2-e05f-47ee-ba57-4a158c0945d2" data-image-style="" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/14/593A0747%2520%25282%2529.jpg" />
The year 2006 (i.e. the 30th anniversary of the Nautilus) saw the introduction of what has since become one of the hottest watches on Earth: the Nautilus 5711.

The 5711 was introduced as part of a new collection of four Nautilus models featuring a slightly re-designed case with curved hinges on its sides. It heralded the return of the time-only ‘Jumbo’, which hadn’t been offered since the 1990s. It brought with it a display caseback that showed off Patek Philippe’s calibre 324, and a new tripartite case design.
<img alt="Wristcheck" data-caption="Nautilus Ref. 5712" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="b66c7ee4-6ee3-428c-b450-f376c95c06b0" data-image-style="" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/14/593A1421_0.jpg" />
Among the 2006 collection, we saw updates to the 3712; the 5712; a continuation of the mid-sized 3800 with the 5800; and the arrival of the first Nautilus to incorporate a chronograph complication, the 5980. All of these were launched in steel — a decision that, in and of itself, made a lot of collectors happy.

Since the reintroduction of the ‘Jumbo’ Nautilus, the eponymous collection has expanded to include models with an annual calendar complication (Ref. 5726), a travel-time chronograph (Ref. 5990), and a perpetual calendar (Ref. 5740). On top of that, a myriad of materials have been used to produce the model, extending to a version covered in diamonds (Ref. 5719).

Needless to say, the Patek Philippe Nautilus has left its&nbsp;(port-hole shaped) mark on the watch industry, and without doubt&nbsp;deserves the title of an ‘icon’.&nbsp;
<img alt="Wristcheck" data-caption="Nautilus Ref. 5980" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="658eb9c2-91cf-47c8-a2b4-1cccfbf36f9d" data-image-style="" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/14/JUN_3557_0.jpg" />
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