The madly-hyped Tiffany & Co. x Patek Philippe 5711 Nautilus exploded onto the watch scene a year ago — skyrocketing the demand for bright blue dials like never before. Given its near-unobtainable status, we explore other under-the-radar finds that feature comparable turquoise tints
Besides the fervour surrounding the launch of the Swatch X Omega Moonswatch series, the other horological event to have sent shockwaves rivalling that of the ‘Bioceramic’ craze in recent memory was the announcement of the Tiffany-blue Patek Philippe 5711 Nautilus - albeit on the other end of the price spectrum. Hot off the press that the much coveted 5711 variant was to be discontinued, Patek revealed what would be their final entry for the model - and boy, did it make a splash.
Watch publications dissected this release to no end - with some praising the brightly hued version as the best iteration yet, whilst others bemoaned the collaboration as a publicity stunt. However one felt about it, it was certainly being talked about.
Presently, roughly a year on from the unveiling of the bright blue watch that broke the Internet in December 2021, where does this timepiece stand in the collective rearview mirrors of the watch-collecting community? Has it aged favourably or is it destined to be a victim of its own hype machine? Let us reflect and re-assess.
Auctions And Celebrity Sightings
The first production Tiffany Nautilus (out of a rumoured total of 170) was auctioned off at Phillips for a staggering US$6.5 million - far exceeding its retail sticker price of US$52,000 by approximately 125-fold. In this day and age, the watch community is accustomed to rare and/or popular pieces trading above retail, but this took that notion to dizzying new heights. Coinciding with some volatility in the cryptocurrency space, it is speculated that the original winning bidder was subsequently unable to commit and the watch then fell into the hands of collector Zach Lu. Since the sale of the initial piece, more examples have been sighted on the wrists of celebrities and moguls alike (think Jay-Z, LeBron James, Leonardo DiCaprio) giving the public a better look as well as some time to digest how to feel about the infamous piece.
As recently as November 2022, another example of the rare watch was separately auctioned at a price of US$3.2 million. Though not quite as shocking as the first and more publicised sale, this is a clear indicator that the watch was still held in high regard amongst high-net-worth collectors.
Alternatives To Consider
Given the incredible scarcity of the special edition 5711, what other avenues can be explored if one decides to dip their toes into turquoise-tinged waters?
For those not willing to commit more than a month’s rent but want to participate in the excitement of a bright and colourful watch, the popular Swatch X Omega Moonswatch “Mission to Uranus” springs to mind. Despite docking a few points for the roll out of the viral sensation, the pale blue iteration presents an interesting proposition: the exact dimensions of the real Omega Speedmaster resplendent with lyre lugs and dot over 90, a relatively low barrier to entry (provided one can be found at the brand’s retail locations), and a unique dial not offered by Omega in its main collection. A word of advice - swap out the OEM strap for a more rustic NATO or rubber for a better wearing experience.
The latest contender to join the “Tiffany” crusade may also be the one that is the most fun. As the final entry of a trio of collaborations between John Mayer, Hodinkee and G-Shock, the Ref. 6900 “PT-1” pays homage to the wonderfully nostalgic Casio keyboard from which its moniker derives. In a slightly paler shade of blue, the accent colours on the watch take cues from the retro electric keyboard - think muted greys and warm peach tones. The previous two versions sold like hotcakes so expect this baby blue version to go equally quickly.
Rounding out the list of approachable Tiffany-inspired watches is a model that has been routinely championed by the community - the Tissot PRX. Fooling nobody, the newly introduced “light green” colourway of the 40mm quartz watch bears an uncanny resemblance to the much pricier 5711, whilst its angular facets and integrated bracelet appear to simultaneously pay homage to a certain octagonal horological icon.
Oris have been producing dependable dive watches for years, most of which are relatively subdued in terms of its design language and colour palette. That was until the brand introduced their incredibly eye-catching “Cotton Candy” iterations for the Sixty Five Diver in 2021 at Watches & Wonders. As has been a popular trend lately, the case and bracelet are in bronze which will encourage patination over time. The compact 38mm size also wears comfortably on most wrists. The range has since been updated with a decidedly more casual Perlon strap option - in colours that perfectly match the dial, of course.
It may be slightly redundant to term the Kurono Tokyo Seiji a sleeper hit at this point given its positive reception amongst cult collectors, but it is definitely worth revisiting. The blue dial featured on this watch may very well be the most vibrant on this list, and the independent brand carries with it a certain cachet that is difficult to match in this price range. Its fellow Japanese brethren, Grand Seiko, have also quietly released a special commemorative Heritage SBGH297 “Ginza” model which sports a striking pale blue dial that directly pays homage to its birthplace. Look closer and one will find a faint grid pattern mimicking the streets of the upscale Tokyo district. As ever with Grand Seiko, finishing is superb and the high-beat movement is impressive with an accuracy of +5 to -3 seconds per day housed inside an exhibition caseback.
Finally, the immediately obvious choice would be the relaunched Rolex Oyster Perpetual range - specifically in what the Swiss powerhouse calls the “Turquoise Blue” shade. Though not officially affiliated with famed jewellers Tiffany & Co., the watch carries with it an unmistakable hue that is sure to catch the attention of passers-by. The colour is just one of the nine (some already retired) that were released by Rolex as part of a revamp of the dependable range, and has so far commanded consistently bullish asking prices on the grey market - signifying its longevity and desirability amongst Rolex fanatics. In the “Turquoise Blue” specification, the model is currently available in a petite 31mm size as well as a very wearable unisex 36mm.
As an alternative to an alternative, one could opt for the less overt (but more official) cousin of the aforementioned Oyster Perpetual - namely, vintage double stamped Tiffany & Co. Rolexes, which ran the gamut from Explorers to Submariners. These were produced to be sold exclusively at Tiffany & Co. boutiques but are sadly no longer available as the co-branding partnership ceased, but several of these gems can still be found with enough scouring on the secondary market or from reputable marketplaces [such as Wristcheck]. Though these too are highly sought after, one can generally expect to fork out less than for the going price of the exceptionally recognizable Tiffany dial Patek Philippe 5711.
Concluding Thoughts
Though it may no longer represent the tsunami it once was approximately a year ago, the allure of the ‘Tiffany’ dial remains a constant in the watch collecting landscape - a wave which many would still hope to hop onto. To answer the question posed earlier, the ‘Tiffany’ dial, whether in its 5711 incarnation or other form factor, is still dominating the cultural zeitgeist.
