<p>A deep dive into the most iconic timepieces to date</p>

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Rolex And A Trinity of Anniversaries: What Do You Expect To See?

20 Years Of The Royal Oak Concept

The Rolex Day-Date

<p>Swatch Group’s eponymous purveyor of fun-filled, affordable watchmaking has long had a knack for sending the right message - as the brand’s most recent team-up with Omega reminds us…</p>
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<p>Earlier this March, Mark Ritson, award-winning columnist and professor of marketing, wrote an enthusiastic endorsement of the recent MoonSwatch launch - lauding it for helping Swatch generate “enormous salience, traffic, editorial and a welcome boost of premiumness thanks to its proximity to Omega”.&nbsp;<br />
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In the months since, journalists and insiders have speculated about what sort of effect, going forward, the collaboration between two of Swatch Group’s biggest brands might have on the vaunted Speedmaster; but what makes Ritson’s analysis so incisive is how he considered this exercise in crossover branding largely through the prism of Swatch. The takeaway? No matter how things shake out for Omega, its egalitarian sister brand has clinched a major victory. “[Swatch] makes good-value, long-lasting, fun watches and not enough people know that,” says Ritson. Thanks to the feeding frenzy surrounding the MoonSwatch, it’s a safe bet consumers are again paying close attention.<br />
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The success of this collaboration - part of a select few in the watch industry which have managed to tap what T. Blackett dubbed the ‘science of alliance’ - raises further discussions about Swatch’s modern history. Having been more or less responsible for promulgating the concept of ‘watches as fashion’, the MoonSwatch definitely isn’t Swatch’s first foray into bringing horological culture to the masses. Before diving into the minutiae of what makes this such an enviable case study for marketers everywhere, we thought it best to start at the beginning: before Swatch and its ineffable brand of wearable culture had yet to dominate the globe.</p>

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<img alt="Moonswatch Omega" data-caption="Photo: Perkin Yu/ Wristcheck" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="7e912fbc-caa0-4c0e-86e3-c87348371be2" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/192/Edit%2520The%2520Story%2520of%2520Swatch.png" width="1568" />
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<h3>Fantastic Plastic: The Creation of Swatch&nbsp;</h3>

<p>With the wisdom of hindsight, it’s amusing to think that the initial Swiss solution to the Quartz Crisis was to double down on high-end quartz. Though they were impressive engineering feats, early attempts to make a quartz luxury watch (e.g. Beta 21) proved commercially lukewarm; and it wasn’t until SMH, precursor to Swatch Group, was formed that a strategy to democratize this technology hove into view.</p>

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<img alt="hayek" data-caption="Photo: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.swissinfo.ch/eng/nicolas-hayek--a-look-back/15320606&quot;&gt;SWI swissinfo.ch&lt;/a&gt;/ RDB" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="e08d196c-a48f-4148-be30-213c318aa9a4" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/192/Edit%2520The%2520Story%2520of%2520Swatch.jpg" width="1568" />
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<p>Following a dramatic dive in exports between 1977-1983 - caused by the rocketing popularity of electronic Japanese watches - Swiss brands were scrambling to save themselves from extinction. Among the biggest of these were SSIH, owners of Omega and Tissot; and ASUAG, parent to movement manufacturing giant ETA. In 1983, the two companies completed one of the biggest mergers in the industry’s history, orchestrated by Mr. Nicolas Hayek - by trade, an engineering consultant who would eventually become Swatch Group’s Chairman.</p>

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<img alt="Swatch first sketch" data-caption="The initial drawing of the Swatch &quot;Vulgaris&quot; casing, circa&amp;nbsp;March, 1980 Photo: Sotheby's" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="e2b06854-86b8-452b-8a85-4c19056c367a" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/192/Edit%2520The%2520Story%2520of%2520Swatch%2520%25281%2529.png" width="1568" />
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<p>As it turns out, the alliance Hayek brokered had a Lazarian effect. Not least because in acquiring ASUAG, SMH gained access to technologies pioneered by Dr. Ernst Thomke - an individual Swatch fans regard as a household name. During his tenure as ETA’s CEO, Thomke had already been investing heavily in the development of injection moulds: a manufacturing process that made it possible to produce watch cases out of monobloc plastic, on an industrial scale. It didn’t take long for Hayek to recognize this technology’s potential. Early versions of the now-iconic Swatch contained a mere 51 parts, immediately improving upon the lead times and material cost previously associated with Swiss-made quartz.<br />
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Thanks to their simple self-contained construction, these could be made in record numbers. For a 9-year period beginning in 1983 (when Swatch was officially established) the company manufactured <em>100 million</em> units - a frankly staggering quantity that helped close the gap with Japanese electronics behemoths like Casio and Citizen.&nbsp;</p>

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<h3>A Whole Mood: Popular Culture, America, and the Rise of ‘Fashion Watches’</h3>

<p>By the mid-1980s, Hayek and the SMH brain trust had successfully paved the way for Swatch’s burgeoning brand. Ad campaigns with taglines like “crazy new wave” and “Granita di Frutta” caught the interest of teens, with many able - for the first time - to buy an affordable Swiss-made timepiece. Unlike ‘serious’ brands within SMH, Swatch also chose to eschew trade-show publicity: instead, launching new products every season (in a manner redolent of the fashion industry).&nbsp;</p>

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<img alt="advertisements" data-caption="Photo: @&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.instagram.com/staytunedtoswatch/&quot;&gt;staytunedtoswatch&lt;/a&gt;" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="fe465e46-80be-4f6f-8e24-dc39d92df0e5" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/192/Edit%2520The%2520Story%2520of%2520Swatch%2520%25284%2529.png" width="1568" />
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<p>Swatch’s alignment with all things à la mode in pop culture became especially apparent under the leadership of Max Imgruth. Hayek’s mirror image, Imgruth had originally been a marketing consultant at SSIH during the company’s pre-merger days. In 1983, he was chosen to spearhead Swatch’s business in the US - taking the company from, in just two short years, from sales of $3 million to $135 million. When asked by American journalists to explain how he’d managed to deliver this miracle, Imgruth’s answer was deceptively simple. “What we’re marketing is much more of a lifestyle,” he said, “[it’s] an idea, rather than something that just ticks”.&nbsp;<br />
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An important part of Imgruth’s strategy was to pitch Swatch to market segments traditionally considered a non-starter for luxury watch brands. That necessarily included the aforementioned teen demographic, who, as Felix Scholz, Co-Host of <a href="https://www.otpodcast.com.au/">OT: The Podcast</a> can personally attest to, latched on all around the globe. “I was a child for the 1980s and much of the 1990s. I can’t speak to a specific ‘moment’ when Swatch entered the zeitgeist, but what I <em>do</em> recall was just how cool [the brand] was,” says Scholz. “My brother had a large wall clock and would buy multiple Swatch watches every year. Rather than having a single partnership that stands out, what I’ve always been most impressed by is the breadth of the offering. From the Olympics to Vivienne Westwood, Swatch’s cultural reach is immense.”&nbsp;</p>

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<img alt="story if swatch" data-caption="The Damien Hirst x Swatch Spot Mickey &amp;amp; Mirror Spot Mickey limited-edition timepieces were launched in 2018 in celebration of Mickey Mouse's 90th birthday Photo: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2022/made-in-britain/swatch-swatch-x-damien-hirst-spot-mickey-mirror&quot;&gt;Sotheby's&lt;/a&gt;" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="f99dc635-4685-4bb6-a9af-152ca63e8d87" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/1010/Edit The Story of Swatch (1)_0.gif" width="1568" />
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<p>In a move that would later be replicated worldwide, Imgruth also made a concerted effort to advertise Swatch’s wares to female customers aged 12-24. Swatches were pitched with the same trendy aura as a pair of Reebok sneakers or Levi’s denim. Crucially, each campaign’s tone of voice was friendly and informal: with themes of matrimony, motherhood and physical objectification largely absent from the advertisements of this era.&nbsp;<br />
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The reality is that, when it comes to inspiration, Swatches are among the most eclectic objects ever to spring forth from the watch industry. Whether inadvertently or by design, their injection-moulded cases and open dials make for an ideal canvas on which cultural events of our lifetime are recorded: explaining why they’ve been the medium of choice for dozens of 'artist specials’ since 1985.&nbsp;<br />
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Focal points in this collecting niche include the 140-piece Kiki Picasso run and Italian sculptor Mimmo Paladino’s ‘Oigol Oro’ design. Unfettered by the constraints placed upon traditional watch brands, Swatch even tried its hand at a series of horological lunchables - designed by Austrian painter Alfred Hofkunst. Inspired by pop art of the late 1980s, Hofkunst’s creations have won applause from a range of (often surprising) quarters. Tom Chng, high-powered co-founder of Singapore Watch Club, is one such unlikely proponent. “The 1991 ‘One More Time’ set is, to me, the stand-out,” says Chng. “Originally unveiled at specialty grocers, it’s an insanely wacky way to conceptualize, execute and distribute wristwatches. Along with Hofkunst, [Swatch] succeeded in making something fun that stands as a democratization of time.”</p>

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<img alt="kiki picasso" data-caption="Pictured is the Kiki Picasso&amp;nbsp;Swatch along with a poster that was distributed during the launch in 1985 Photo: @&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.instagram.com/staytunedtoswatch/&quot;&gt;staytunedtoswatch&lt;/a&gt;" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="dd90fb9a-5dc7-4250-985e-c137d4aba65b" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/1010/Edit The Story of Swatch.gif" width="1568" />
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<h3>One small step for Swatch…a giant leap for Swatch Group</h3>

<p>Unbelievable though it may seem - considering what we know of Swatch’s 30-year history - the recent MoonSwatch unveiling does indeed break new ground for the brand (if not the entire industry). Surprisingly, this marks the first occasion on which Swatch and Omega have collaborated on a single product and, unlike most co-branded luxury in the 21st century, was never meant to be a limited edition.&nbsp;<br />
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Currently, it remains too early to tell whether the launch will have the long-term ‘cannibalizing’ effect on the Speedmaster that doomsayers seem so worried about. But, if current data is to be believed, the reality is just the opposite. According to Ritson, stats from the March launch weekend alone indicated Swatch “sold almost certainly more MoonSwatches in a single morning than Omega will sell Speedmasters all year”.</p>

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<p><iframe 0="" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/iKcCAKdld-g" style="display: block; margin: auto;" width="560"></iframe></p>

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<p>At one-tenth the price of Omega’s baseline Speedmaster Professional, detractors have argued this is a bubble born out of economic convenience, though it’s unlikely Swatch Group’s biggest player (by market share) would commit themselves to crossover play without having first considered the big picture. Put another way, Swatch Group executives have calculated the damage to the Speedmaster’s mindshare shall largely be imagined - a sentiment articulated by Raynald Aeschlimann, CEO of Omega, right from the get-go. “There is a vast space between a genuine Speedmaster MoonSwatch and this Swatch,” Aeschlimann said in an interview with <a href="https://www.wired.co.uk/article/omega-and-swatch-moonswatch">Wired</a> earlier this year. “There’s really no crossover in any true sense, apart from the look.”<br />
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Those comments reveal the calculated gamble at the heart of the MoonSwatch - one that, if correctly adjudged, will be recorded in the history book of genius marketing manoeuvres. In July, reporting by <em>Bloomberg UK</em> indicated that sales of the Speedmaster Professional had “increased by more than 50 percent since the launch of the $250 MoonSwatch in March”.&nbsp;<br />
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That news has been an early coup for perceptive execs like Aeschlimann who, as Scholz points out, know the importance of seeding the next generation of watch consumers. Many of whom, until now, might have proved resistant to traditional marketing narratives. “Major fashion houses know that getting younger people with less spending power to ‘buy into’ your brand is a worthwhile investment,” Scholz says. “Look at the Balenciaga cap or Loewe’s elephant charms - done correctly, this sort of purchase can kickstart a lifetime of positive brand associations. The MoonSwatch is no different.”</p>

Swatch: The Brand That Dared to Embrace Art, Fashion, and the Zeitgeist

<p>Launched in 1953, Blancpain’s Fifty Fathoms was one of the world's first modern dive watches. With its rich history, interesting variants, attractive designs and accessible price points, the Fifty Fathoms is truly a diver’s delight</p>

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<p>One of the most popular genres in watches, the humble dive watch offers robust constructions and versatile designs that can be worn by both watch enthusiasts as well casual wearers. Moreover, with their rich history within the industry, there just isn't anything not to like about them.&nbsp;</p>

<p>The segment is rather hotly contested with several legendary models vying for the top spot for the historically most significant dive watch. Right from the Rolex Submariner to the Omega Seamaster, there are several legendary models that come to mind when one thinks of an ideal dive watch. However, had it not been for Blancpain’s Fifty Fathoms, this category as we know today, might not even exist. Often overlooked, but still contained within the spirit of the majority of dive watches today, the Fifty Fathoms is the unsung hero of the dive world.</p>
<img alt="watchprosite - 1953 Blancpain Fifty Fathoms" data-caption="A 1953 Blancpain Fifty Fathoms ©Blancpain" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="95e3598c-88d6-4d24-9736-8e37c81eb4e6" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/1007/Edit Blancpain 50 Fathoms.png" width="1568" />
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<h3>A New Genre&nbsp;</h3>

<p>Launched in 1953, the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms was one of the world's first modern dive watches. The brainchild of avid diver and former Blancpain CEO Jean-Jacques Fiechter, the Fifty Fathoms was designed as a companion for his diving expeditions. Named after the old British measurement, a Fathom, the Fifty Fathoms was rather unsurprisingly water-resistant up to 50 fathoms – around 300 feet. While this number might not seem like a whole lot by today's standards, it was once the forefront of diving technology and more than enough for divers at the time, considering the majority of them wouldn't ever exceed 66 meters in depth, at which point the oxygen toxicity becomes a genuine concern.</p>

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<img alt="Blancpain" data-caption="The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms was the brainchild of avid diver and former Blancpain CEO Jean-Jacques Fiechter ©Blancpain" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="8d409376-fb99-4dfc-a8ec-91cfead97670" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/1007/3_10.png" width="1568" />
<p><img alt="Vintage Ad of the Fifty Fathoms" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="1ac2ee06-5cf5-4fe3-a27d-42577538ca8d" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/1007/Edit Blancpain 50 Fathoms (1).png" width="1568" /></p>

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<p>Of course, Blancpain didn't manage to create a watch with 91 meters of water resistance without having to innovate. So they created the Fifty Fathoms, which was the first watch to include a secured unidirectional rotating bezel, an O-ring seal, which they patented, and a double-sealed crown system. Created to offer divers an important tool, Blancpain inadvertently created horology's most popular genre of timepiece and the template for every dive watch that would follow.</p>

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<img alt="[Picture of the ref. 5008D]" data-caption="Limited to 500 pieces, the Blancpain Ref. 5008D1130 B64A features a 40.3mm case Photo: Perkin Yu/ Wristcheck" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="2625830c-e346-4ca3-9aec-edb44fb89964" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/1007/Blancpain No Rad %23604_132w (1).jpg" width="1568" />
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<h3>The Fifty Fathoms As We Know It</h3>

<p>It’s no surprise that the Fifty Fathoms is one of the most luxurious dive watches on the market today. While keeping its functionality intact, the Fifty Fathoms has followed in Blancpain's footsteps in its ascent towards luxurious high-end haute horology. Thanks to Blancpain's desire to showcase its watchmaking credentials, the Fifty Fathoms' family has grown almost exponentially over the last several decades – adding newer variants with different complications, materials, colorways and dial designs to their catalogue.</p>

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<img alt="Blancpain Fifty Fathoms &quot;No Radiations&quot; dial Photo: Phillips" data-caption="Circa 1965-1970, this is the 41mm Blancpain Fifty Fathoms with the &quot;No Radiations&quot; dial Photo: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.phillips.com/detail/blancpain/CH080116/118&quot;&gt;Phillips&lt;/a&gt;" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="527ce6a1-b8ee-40ec-96c0-957c85edc67e" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/1007/Edit Blancpain 50 Fathoms (2).png" width="1568" />
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<p>Of course, with a history as rich as that of the Fifty Fathoms, it would be a shame if Blancpain didn't release historically significant variants offering collectors an accurate reinterpretation of the world's first dive watch. There have been several historically-inspired models of the Fifty Fathoms in the past but one that’s always been a crowd-puller is the "No Radiations" edition. Re-released twice since its introduction in the 1960s, it’s now a cult classic indeed.&nbsp;</p>

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<h3>The No Radiations Story</h3>

<p>Originally when the Fifty Fathoms was launched, its dial would have included radium paint as its luminescent material. However, by the turn of the 1960s, research into radioactive elements and their effect on the human body had indicated just how dangerous radium was. So it was no longer an acceptable material for watchmakers or any other company to use. As such, when Blancpain released the Fifty Fathoms as a commercially available timepiece, they wanted to showcase that their timepieces were not going to cause radium-induced sickness, so they marked their dials with the now-iconic "No Radiations" symbol at 6 o'clock. Eye-catching with its bright orange and yellow colors and distinctive radiation symbol, Blancpain had inadvertently created what has grown into one of their most iconic variants — one that was so much in demand that they launched a limited edition re-release in 2010, and another in 2021.</p>

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<h3>The Blancpain Fifty-Fathoms No Radiations Ref. 5008D 1130 B64A</h3>

<p>Launched as a modern 500-piece limited edition variant of the iconic "No Radiations," the ref. 5008D 1130 B64A is a faithful re-issue indeed. Constructed of stainless steel and featuring a 40.3mm case, just 0.7mm smaller than the original – much closer than the 45mm case of the 2010 model, the latest "No Radiations" Fifty Fathoms looks and wears somewhat similarly to its vintage predecessor. With a thinner profile, bulkier lugs and small crown guards, the new model is slightly more rugged though – a telling detail of Blancpain's modern watchmaking style whereby utility meets vintage inspiration.</p>

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<img alt="Blancpain" data-caption="The Blancpain Fifty-Fathoms No Radiations Ref. 5008D 1130 B64A in the dark ©Blancpain" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="6df4f812-0747-4a17-9ddb-473e26f952c4" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/1007/Edit Blancpain 50 Fathoms (4).png" width="1568" />
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<p>Featuring the bright yellow and orange radiation symbol on its matte black dial with the inclusion of a soft orange faux patina atop its indices and in its bezel markings, the new "No Radiations" display looks rather similar to the original. Of course, there are some subtle differences, such as pencil-shaped hands instead of sword-shaped and a sapphire crystal bezel, which replaces the bakelite bezels that Blancpain had used in the original Fifty Fathoms. However, just like with its construction, these changes are relatively unnoticed at a glance and add a gentle tone of modern functionality to this icon.</p>

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<img alt="Blancpain" data-caption="The latest &quot;No Radiations&quot; Fifty Fathoms is powered by the&amp;nbsp;ultra-slim automatic Cal. 1151 with a power reserve of 100 hours Photo: Perkin Yu/ Wristcheck" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="ec4b1833-cbcc-4be4-a40a-8027d6276116" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/1007/Edit Blancpain 50 Fathoms (3).png" width="1568" />
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<p>Featuring a white-rimed date function at 3 o'clock, a nod to the vintage references, the latest variant also has a tropical weave in its black rubber strap, another detail that was omitted from the 2010 model.<br />
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Powered by the ultra-slim automatic Cal. 1151, the Ref. 5008D features an impressively long 100 hours of power reserve. Another detail of its modern construction is evident in the sapphire crystal caseback – something which watchmakers never used on a dive watch in the 1960s.</p>

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<p><iframe 0="" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/2YZi1VTOxY4" style="display: block; margin: auto;" width="560"></iframe></p>

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<h3>Unsung Hero of the Dive World</h3>

<p>Fueled by nostalgia, "icon" is a term we often bandy around in horological circles to elevate a watch’s status. I genuinely think the Fifty Fathoms is an icon that’s rather underrated by the watch community as a whole. While there are some vintage variants, and even modern ones, that do receive their fair share of plaudits, the hype around other dive watches is totally unjustifiable as compared to the Fifty Fathoms.<br />
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With its rich history, plethora of interesting variants and notable designs, the Fifty Fathoms is an icon by just about every metric, as far as I am concerned. The latest 'No Radiations' variant pays the perfect homage to this collection's incredible history while also allowing Blancpain to showcase some of its modern watchmaking craftsmanship in a heritage-inspired design. In all honesty, the Ref. 5008D is a perfect homage to Blancpain's most iconic watch, with its unmistakable dial doing everything it can to help bring attention to watchmaking's best-kept not-so-secret secret.&nbsp;</p>
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Blancpain Fifty Fathoms: The Dive World’s Unsung Hero

 Understanding The Hidden Appeal Of The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso

<p>Made in minuscule numbers, Cartier’s most captivating design experiment from the 1960s was always destined for fame. Here’s how it became one of the world’s most desirable million dollar watch</p>
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<p>Pay just a minimal amount of attention to the watch world, and there will be one timepiece that you’ll no doubt come across: the Cartier Crash. This watch has not only captivated the imagination of the horological heads, but that of the mainstream. Much like the Patek Philippe Nautilus (which generated cultural fervor in November 2021 with its Tiffany collaboration) or the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak (which turned 50 years old this year), the Crash has seemed to achieve household name status – without the help of any brand-manufactured development or milestone to celebrate. Rather, the Crash, which debuted in 1967, has been seeing a resurgence in popularity amongst serious collectors and newly minted enthusiasts due to a perfect storm of hype.<br />
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I first discovered the Cartier Crash in 2020, shortly after I launched the Dimepiece Instagram account. (Remember, I’m relatively new to watches if you’re scoffing at my late discovery!) Overnight, my explore page became inundated with watches – Aquanauts, Tanks, Datejusts. I was scrolling through mindlessly until I came upon a photo of <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CIlxYDPHahy/?hl=en">two wrists</a> decked with two of the most beautiful, unusual pieces I’d ever laid my eyes on. I clicked through to the image, posted by dealer and collector <a href="https://www.instagram.com/fumanku/?hl=en">Eric Ku</a>, casually captioned: “Too much wine.” I feverishly poked around his page, seeking any information on these watches and soon learned the name “Cartier Crash”, and how important the “London” is at the 6-hour marker.<br />
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But before we get into that, let’s set the record straight: how did the Crash come about? Rumors and tall tales circulate the scene, some crediting its surrealist design to the maison’s fascination with Salvador Dalí’s “Persistence of Memory” (1931). Another, more bewitching story is that the inspiration for the watch came about when a client brought in a deformed Cartier Baignoire Allongée, recently melted from the fire of a car crash. But in “The Cartiers: The Untold Story of the Family Behind the Jewelry Empire”, author <a href="https://www.instagram.com/creatingcartier/">Francesca Brickell Cartier</a> indicates that the Crash resulted from collaborative work led by her grandfather, Jean-Jacques Cartier. At the time, the Cartier business had been split amongst three international branches, with locations in Paris (where it was founded), New York and London – Jean-Jacques at the helm of the latter from 1945 to 1974.</p>
<img alt="side by side image of the crash and the Baignoire " data-caption="Pictured is a 1967 Cartier London Crash and a 1957 Cartier London Baignoire Allongée&amp;nbsp;©Cartier" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="9025da31-3d49-4700-9b71-7de1760e2603" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/149/2_6.png" width="1568" />
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<p>Picture, now, London in the Swinging Sixties: a city in bloom, shaking off the cold austerity lingering from the Second World War. The Beatles, Twiggy, sexual liberation, the mini-skirt. Imaginations and libidos were running rampant, exploding color into the streets; and people were craving personal adornment to match the mood. Enter leading man du jour, actor Stewart Granger, who demanded a watch “unlike any other.” Up for the challenge, Jean-Jacques Cartier worked closely with designer Rupert Emmerson on shaking up the popular silhouette of the Maxi Oval, tweaking and pinching it to look as though it had been in a crash.</p>

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<img alt="London boutique" data-caption="Cartier’s London flagship at 175–176 Bond Street in the early 1900s ©Cartier" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="f8258199-2197-455b-a42d-c67f991cb3c1" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/149/4_4.png" width="1568" />
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<p>After many iterations, the design was approved with Jaeger-LeCoultre on board to consult on an appropriate movement. The design then was passed to a workshop of craftsmen creating a workable template made from sheets of gold that took far longer than the thirty-five hours dedicated to a standard watch case. At last, the piece was sent to Cartier London’s head watchmaker, Eric Denton, tasked to fit the case with a movement, dial and winder. Imagine this daunting, near-impossible feat: “The first Crash watch caused a lot of headaches,” recounted Jean-Jacques in “The Cartiers.” “You see it’s all very well coming up with a good-looking design, but it had to tell the time too! And because the dial was irregular, the numbers weren’t at the standard places.”<br />
<br />
Days upon days and multiple attempts later, an early Crash was sold to Stewart Granger, who brought it back after a week, deciding it was too unusual after all. Granger, lad, what were you thinking!? Cartier London wound up creating only about a dozen Crash watches (with Paris following suit with another limited edition run) hence why “London” at the 6 is what collectors today drool over. The first London piece sold for a meager $1,000 (approximately $7500 today), and due to the sheer amount of hours put in at the workshop, Jean-Jacques admitted regret at pricing it so low. “But you simply couldn’t charge too much then,” he explained in “The Cartiers.” “There wasn’t that much wealth going around. When I see what they go for today, oh my!”<br />
<br />
“Oh my” is right. In May 2022, the record for costliest London Crash had been surpassed, jumping from $841K (when it sold at Sotheby’s in 2021) to $1.5M in under a year. Online auction site Loupe This (founded by none other than Eric Ku) hammered a 1967 London Cartier Crash for that jaw-dropping amount. “Even in its most recent iterations,” Mr. Ku wrote to me, “The Crash has always been produced in minuscule numbers, making it an instant collectible, and being able to buy one is akin to winning the lottery.” Good luck with that Powerball.</p>

<p>&nbsp;</p>
<img alt="Loupe this" data-caption="Setting a world record, Loupe This hammered a 1967 London Cartier Crash for $1.5M in May 2022" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="76185b3b-7bc6-4b09-9623-0978a2bcbba6" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/149/Edit%2520Cartier%2520Crash%2520%25281%2529.png" width="1568" />
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<p>I asked Phillips Watches specialist Isabella Proia about why she thinks the Crash has garnered this much rabid interest. “What has happened at auction, and in the secondary market,” she wrote to me, “is the confluence of those things which make the most desirable watches desirable. With the highly limited production and audacious design from a renowned brand such as Cartier, examples in amazing condition with clear provenance are bound to set and break records.” In other words, the Crash – the London Crash in particular – is made up of the perfect formula, which we see repeatedly, albeit rarely, in the watch world. Consider the Paul Newman Daytona, blessed with that same combination of limited production, provenance and design pedigree. And much like the Daytona, the value of the Crash has – many will agree – been significantly bolstered by celebrity. Instead of Paul Newman, the Crash has been jolted into relevance by a more contemporary clientele.</p>

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<p style="color: #c9c8cd; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 17px; margin-bottom: 0; margin-top: 8px; overflow: hidden; padding: 8px 0 7px; text-align: center; text-overflow: ellipsis; white-space: nowrap;"><a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CdL-kJANaGj/?utm_source=ig_embed&amp;utm_campaign=loading" rel="noopener" style="color: #c9c8cd; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: 17px; text-decoration: none;" target="_blank">A post shared by WRISTCHECK (@wristcheck)</a></p>
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<p>One of the most stunning <a href="https://akns-images.eonline.com/eol_images/Entire_Site/201904/rs_1024x759-190104131827-634-6kanye-west-kim-kardashian-miami-beach-condo.jpg?fit=around%257C1024:759&amp;output-quality=90&amp;crop=1024:759;center,top">paparazzi photos</a> I’ve ever beheld is that of Kanye West and Kim Kardashian, peering over a balcony flanking their $14M Miami condo in 2019. At first glance, you see a Crash on Kim’s wrist, her lips pursed as she shields her eyes from the sun. A Crash on one of the most famous, if not <em>the</em> most famous woman in the world… But, look! There’s Kanye, his arms by his side, slightly obscured by the balcony’s glass shield, and a Crash graced upon his left wrist. Two Cartier Crashes on two of today’s most influential pop culture figures. Certainly, this has something to do with the Crash’s soaring notoriety. Then, there’s Tyler, the Creator, who’s become ever more public-facing with his growing collection of vintage Cartier. Out of all of his incredible pieces, he performs most frequently with a Crash on his wrist, which is, to me, probably one of the most punk statements in the world. Sweating and growling and singing on stage to thousands of adoring fans piled together in a mosh pit, with a Crash on the wrist. It makes my heart flutter.</p>

<p>&nbsp;</p>

<blockquote class="twitter-tweet tw-align-center" data-theme="light">
<p dir="ltr" lang="en"><a href="https://twitter.com/Cartier?ref_src=twsrc%255Etfw">@cartier</a> the crash watch designed by the CEO of Cartier in 1967 <a href="https://twitter.com/nickwoodhouse?ref_src=twsrc%255Etfw">@nickwoodhouse</a> wearing the<br />
Ecrou de cartier with symbolizes the transformation of the ordinary to the extraordinary the nuts and bolts of Cartier <a href="https://t.co/wrgMmWtPGY">pic.twitter.com/wrgMmWtPGY</a></p>
— ye (@kanyewest) <a href="https://twitter.com/kanyewest/status/1073610500531998722?ref_src=twsrc%255Etfw">December 14, 2018</a></blockquote>
<script async src="https://platform.twitter.com/widgets.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

<p>&nbsp;</p>

<p>In so many ways, the current time we’re living in is not unlike the Swinging Sixties, when the Crash was first unleashed into the world. This moment is defined by political unrest and revolution, and in the aftermath of worldwide lockdowns, a lot of us are coping by shaking shit up and expressing ourselves. As another financial crisis looms and clean-lined cutesy, millennial marketing is shoved down our throats, it only makes sense why we’d be drawn to the oddball Crash, an experiment in design that endures ever still. “Its appeal lies in its simple yet complex design and construction,” Eric Ku explained of the watch he described to me as destined for fame. “It’s a constant reminder to the wearer to not take time… so seriously.”</p>

<p>&nbsp;</p>

<p><em>Editor's note: </em>The banner image for this feature is illustrated by @<a href="https://www.instagram.com/bjoernaltmann/?hl=en">bjoernaltmann</a>.&nbsp;</p>


 The Enduring Importance of the Cartier Crash

 Ikepod: Cult Classic of 90s Then And Now

<p>From the 1970s motor-racing inspired sports watches to the modern Black Bay Chronos, we look back at the fascinating history of Tudor’s most robust and reliable timepieces</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>

<p>In the world of collectible watches, as especially those from the House of Wilsdorf, there is arguably none more important than chronographs. The always-mighty Daytona is arguably its own microcosm of collecting, with scholars and collectors having dedicated their careers to understanding one of Rolex’s most intriguing models with seemingly myriad variations and iterations. Tudor, the younger brother, has its own extensive story to tell when it comes to chronographs with a few surprises and a plethora of style…</p>

<p>&nbsp;</p>

<h3>Home is Where the Heart Is</h3>

<p>The very first Tudor chronographs were launched at the annual watch fair in Basel in 1970. Having never experimented with so-called ‘pump-pusher’ models like Rolex had in the early Pre-Daytonas and first series of Daytonas, the Tudors were housed in robust 40mm cases with screw-down pushers and large 7mm screw-down crowns like those used on dive watches. The Tudors had a date window at six o’clock on the dial, which was interestingly always a complaint about Daytona. The two different watches did have something in common though, in that both were fitted with manual wind modified Valjoux movements.</p>

<p>&nbsp;</p>
<img alt="TUDOR 7031" data-caption="It’s hard to procure a 7031 in good condition because it has a black plastic tachymeter bezel that can easily get damaged Photo: Tudorcollector" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="a495a922-9a3d-458f-8c40-df46c63b8ef6" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/144/Ross-7031-on-nato.jpeg" width="1568" />
<p>The first Tudors were available in two references, 7031 and 7032. The watches were essentially identical, the only difference being the bezel. The 7031 featured a black plastic tachymeter bezel and the 7032 featured an all stainless steel tachymeter. In today’s collector market both watches are considered rare, but the 7031 is harder to find in great condition as the plastic bezels were quite easily damaged. The most notable feature of these first series watches was the eye-catching color scheme. The predominant color was gray, with striking orange elements on the black subdials and outer track. The stopwatch hand was also bright orange. Collectors refer to these watches as Homeplates, which comes from the shape of the hour markers, which are like the home plate on a baseball field. There is also a very rare variant of these watches with black dials, where the black and gray elements are reversed. High-prized by collectors, I estimate that there are less than two-dozen known examples.</p>

<p>&nbsp;</p>
<img alt="Black 7032 Phillips" data-caption="One of the first Tudors, the 7032 featured an all stainless steel tachymeter Photo: Phillips" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="bfef836e-49ca-4548-a95e-7725dad1d333" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/144/Black%25207032%2520Phillips.png" width="1568" /><img alt="Homeplate_1" data-caption="Due to the hour markers' resemblance to homeplate on a baseball field, collectors call the 7031 and 7032 watches &quot;Homeplates&quot;" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="fadd29b3-24c0-4bf0-80f9-1dd14753d01f" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/144/Homeplate_1.png" width="1568" />
<p>&nbsp;</p>

<h3>Monte Carlo or Bust</h3>

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<p style="color: #c9c8cd; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 17px; margin-bottom: 0; margin-top: 8px; overflow: hidden; padding: 8px 0 7px; text-align: center; text-overflow: ellipsis; white-space: nowrap;"><a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BxSREPzDrFo/?utm_source=ig_embed&amp;utm_campaign=loading" rel="noopener" style="color: #c9c8cd; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: 17px; text-decoration: none;" target="_blank">A post shared by WRISTCHECK (@wristcheck)</a></p>
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<p>&nbsp;</p>

<p>After only a year, in 1971 Tudor quickly launched the second series of chronographs. The cases of second series chronographs remained largely unchanged, with the large size 40mm diameter that offered a significantly bigger wrist presence than the 36mm Rolex Daytona. The eye-catching use of color continued with a gray and orange color scheme that was similar to the Homeplate and that was supplemented by a blue and orange combination that was new. The watches became known by collectors as Monte Carlos, as the dials, with interesting designs on the outer track and sub dials, looked similar to the roulette tables of <em>Monte Carlo</em>!</p>

<p>&nbsp;</p>
<img alt="7159 Grey Phillips" data-caption="Part of Tudor's third bezel variation, the 7159 was introduced with a 12-hour bi-directional rotating fixed steel tachymeter bezel (left) Photo: Phillips, while the 7149 was launched with blue and black plastic tachymeter bezels (right)&amp;nbsp;" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="6497e901-6993-4727-8dfa-761b385580b4" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/144/Edit%2520Tudor%2520Chronos%2520%2520%25282%2529.jpg" width="1568" />
<p>&nbsp;</p>

<p>With the second series of chronographs, Tudor introduced a third bezel variation with a 12-hour bi-directional rotating bezel. The bezels were of similar construction to a Submariner, with steel bezel and anodized aluminum insert. The references were 7149, which had a fixed plastic tachymeter bezel, 7159 with a fixed steel tachymeter bezel and reference 7169 with the newly introduced 12-hour bezel for measuring elapsed time. The introduction of blue into the collection meant that there were both blue and black plastic tachymeter bezels for the 7149 and also both colors of 12-hour bezel inserts on the 7169.</p>

<p>&nbsp;</p>

<h3><strong>New Kid on the (Big) Block</strong></h3>

<p>At the beginning I said that there were a couple of surprises in the Tudor chronograph story. The surprising use of color in the early series was arguably eclipsed in 1976 with the introduction of the third series of chronos. It was in this year that the House of Wilsdorf launched its first automatic chronograph. And it wasn’t a Rolex, it was a Tudor and it was over a decade before Rolex launched the automatic Daytona Perpetual in 1988. The case shape also changed for the first time with the third series too, as the autowind mechanism of the movement meant that Tudor needed to design a new case that was deeper, hence the collector term <em>Big Block</em>.&nbsp;</p>

<p>&nbsp;</p>
<img alt="TUDOR Big Block 9430" data-caption="The first Big Block watches were the 9000 series with the references being differentiated by the bezel type. Here's the Big Block 9430 with a steel tachymeter bezel (left), and the 9420 with a plastic tachymeter bezel (right) Photo: Phillips" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="88e90acb-0335-4875-82dc-3b98bc3daa04" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/144/Edit%2520Tudor%2520Chronos%2520%2520%25281%2529.jpg" width="1568" />
<p>&nbsp;</p>

<p>Bringing the watch closer in line with the tri-register Daytona, the <em>Big Block</em> introduced a third chronograph register on the dial. The first series watches were 45-minute chronographs, but now the watches had a new elapsed hours indicator that allowed the new watches to measure much longer periods of time. The first Big Block watches were the 9000 series with the references being differentiated by the bezel type. They consisted of 9420 with a plastic tachymeter bezel, 9421 with the 12 hour bezel and reference 9430 that was equipped with a steel tachymeter bezel. Tudor continued to produce exotic dials that picked up where the <em>Monte Carlos</em> had left off with the 9000 series. There were two variations of Big Block exotic dials, a version with painted hour markers and a version with applied metal hour markers. The dials with painted hour markers were available in two colourways, gray-black-orange and gray-blue-orange.<br />
<br />
In the late 1980’s Tudor replaced the 9000 series watches with the 79100 series. These watches retained the <em>Big Block</em> case but were only available with the two color, non-exotic dial configuration. As with the 9000 series, there were three references which were all differentiated by their bezel type. The 79160 had a black plastic tachymeter bezel, the 79170 had a black 12-hour bi-directional bezel and the 79180 was fitted with a steel tachymeter bezel.</p>

<p>&nbsp;</p>

<h3><strong>The Small Block</strong></h3>

<p>In 1995 Tudor launched the fourth series of chronographs, the Prince chronograph. By this time the Daytona Perpetual was well established and had become one of the most sought after watches on the market and had in fact created the first waiting-list for a watch. Maybe inspired by the success of the Daytona, the Prince Chronograph had a complete case redesign. Where previous Tudor chronographs had sharp edges and sporty flat case sides, a novel softer case form was introduced. This new aesthetic was further enhanced by the introduction of a sapphire crystal, which accentuated the lower profile of the watch on the wrist. Collectors now refer to these watches as Small Blocks, as they are so much sleeker than their predecessors.&nbsp;</p>

<p>&nbsp;</p>
<img alt="TUDOR 79260" data-caption="Tudor's 79260 a.k.a. &quot;Tiger Prince Date&quot; features a black aluminum fixed tachymeter bezel Photo: Antiquorum" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="5227e97b-ab4f-43c0-b868-a93359c10067" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/144/176.jpeg" width="1568" />
<p>&nbsp;</p>

<p>In the same manner as previously, the series comprised three references, each one referring to the bezel type. 79260 had a black aluminum fixed tachymeter bezel, 79270 a black aluminum rotating 12-hour bezel and 79280 had a steel fixed tachymeter bezel. The delicate plastic tachymeter of the previous series was replaced with an aluminum insert and the fixed steel tachymeter had a polished finish instead of the brushed matte version.<br />
<br />
Up until the Small Block watches, Tudor had fitted the watches with Rolex winding crowns and Rolex-signed casebacks. During the first couple of transitional years, the use of Rolex branded winding crowns and case backs were phased out in favor of Tudor versions. Also the use of Osyterdate was phased out in favor of Prince Date. Another Daytona-influenced feature of the fourth series was the use of a leather strap and Tudor deployment buckle. The watches that were sold on leather straps were fitted with a short endlink to create a neat flush-fit between the case and strap. Where the gold Daytonas had fixed short endlinks, the Tudors fixed end links were removable which allowed the watches to be fitted with a bracelet, making it more versatile.&nbsp;</p>

<p>&nbsp;</p>

<h3><strong>Heritage Heroes and Beyond</strong></h3>

<p>One of the most incredible watch brand relaunches of recent times, was the Tudor Heritage line in 2010. Having been withdrawn form the UK and USA markets in the early 2000s, the brand was reinvigorated and reimagined in 2010 with the Heritage Chrono. The was a modern interpretation of the first series of Homeplate chronos that took the collecting community by surprise. It was the talk of the town at Baselworld that year and enabled enthusiasts to own a modern version of what had become one of the most collectible Tudors. In 2013 Tudor followed up with a second Heritage Chrono in blue. The second version was very heavily based on the reference 7169 Monte Carlo but kept with the new formula of a 42mm case with sapphire crystal and this time a blue 12-hour rotating bezel.</p>

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<img alt="Tudor Heritage Chrono Blue" data-caption="David Beckham sporting Tudor's Heritage Chrono Blue Photo: @&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.instagram.com/p/CLcBgcUB8wg/&quot;&gt;davidbeckham&lt;/a&gt;&amp;nbsp;" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="21a0b767-5eef-4900-b336-8ca44917f364" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/907/Edit Tudor Chronos (6).gif" width="1568" />
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<p>Launched in 2012, as part of the revived Heritage line, the Black Bay has now become the cornerstone of the modern era of Tudor. As one might expect, one of the most successful iterations of the family is the Black Bay Chrono. Initially launched in an all steel version with all black dial and fixed steel tachymeter bezel, the Chrono is now available in two-tone versions known as S&amp;G (for steel and gold) and more recently as reference 79360 – a steel watch with black fixed tachymeter bezel. The new BB Chrono has both <em>Panda</em> (white dial with black subdials) and Reverse Panda dial types and has its own waiting list. Step aside Daytona!</p>

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<img alt="Black Bay S&amp;G" data-caption="The new BB Chrono has both &lt;em&gt;Panda&lt;/em&gt; (white dial with black subdials) and Reverse Panda dial types&amp;nbsp;©Tudor" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="43815e21-2781-4f75-a5c5-8355eb26c24b" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/144/Edit%2520Tudor%2520Chronos%2520.jpg" width="1568" />
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