You needn’t be a millionaire to build a great watch collection, here are some of the best affordable watches available now on Wristcheck
While having a healthy bank balance is nice to have when it comes to building a great watch collection, a personal fortune that looks like a mobile phone number is far from a must. In fact, with the rise and rise of the value-driven micro-brand watchmaker and the scales of economy offered by the largest watchmaking groups in the world, a relatively affordable figure you can still get a watch on your wrist that should survive generations of your heirs.
Sure, you mightn’t be able to pick up any budget grand complications or minute repeaters, but with a budget of USD 5k, there’s no reason you can’t own a timepiece with bulletproof build quality and serious history behind it. From the universally celebrated names of Cartier and Hermès to the future classics of Ming and Kurono Tokyo, here are our tips for the best watches that’ll cost you five bands or less.
Cartier Must de Cartier Blue
Kicking things off with one of the few true icons within the watch world, the Cartier Must de Cartier Tank is instantly recognizable thanks to its timeless form. A study in elegant simplicity, the Must collection was first launched by Cartier in 1977 as an affordable entry into Tank ownership, and this example formed part of the popular relaunch in 2021, with a less-is-more blue dial. Boasting a matching blue sapphire cabochon in the crown and powered by the reliable calibre 157 quartz movement, this is a watch that’ll still look great half a century from today.
Grand Seiko Hi-Beat 36000 Professional Ref. SBGH255G
As far as getting the most bang for your buck goes, this Grand Seiko SBGH255G is tough to beat in terms of value. While the 46mm diameter might be intimidating at first, its high-intensity titanium case reduces its presence on the wrist to a perfect balance, and the high-beat calibre 9S85 ticking away at 10 times per second is likely to be one of the most accurate you’ll ever own. Delivering a wonderfully over-engineered 600m of water resistance, the SBGH255G is built to survive almost anything.
Louis Erard x Massena LAB Excellence Le Régulateur
One of the most exciting elements of watch collecting today is the growth of collaboration watches, often between well-established names and provocative up-and-comers in a fusion of past and present. The Louis Erard x Massena LAB Excellence Le Régulateur is a great example of this — combining the nearly century-long legacy of Louis Erard with the cultural acumen of watch industry veteran William Massena — to create a marine chronometer-inspired timepiece that feels equal parts classic and contemporary. Measuring 42mm in diameter and featuring a wonderfully granular golden dial, it’s an affordable timepiece that stands out from the crowd.
Tudor Black Bay 58 Blue
A diver that needs less introduction than most, the Tudor Black Bay 58 Blue is a popular favorite and for good reason. Drawing direct inspiration from Tudor’s earliest dive watches in the 1950s, the universally wearable 39mm case size is slender at just 11.9mm thick and features a brushed finish utilitarian across the surface of both the case and bracelet. Beneath the charming matte blue dial is the in-house calibre MT5402, offering a healthy 70 hours of power reserve and solidifying the Black Bay 58 as a modern classic.
Kurono Tokyo Calendrier Type 1
Brands such as Seiko and Citizen have dominated the landscape of Japanese watchmaking for decades, but newer players such as master watchmaker Hajime Asaoka are turning heads for all the right reasons. The Kurono Tokyo Calendrier Type 1 is one of his more popular projects, which delivers a full calendar complication in a unique shade of olive green, cased in 38mm of high-quality stainless steel. With an eye-catching font and a dial color that plays well with the light, it’s a watch that gets better the closer you look at it
Hermès H08 SP1.741
The luxury juggernaut that is Hermès might be best known for its peerless leather goods, but the French-founded Maison knows more than a thing or two about watchmaking. Sporty, sophisticated and rich with delightful detail, no one who has ever tried an H08 on their wrist has been disappointed by the experience and this titanium example takes comfort to the next level. If you’re after an everyday watch that’s thoughtful and robust in equal measure, you can’t do much better than this.
Vertex M100
Most watch collectors haven’t come across the Vertex name before, but that doesn’t mean its history isn’t a fascinating one. One of the dozen watchmakers selected by the British Ministry of Defence to produce timepieces for its soldiers (alongside the likes of IWC, Jaeger–LeCoultre and Omega), Vertex is a highly collectible brand and after being relaunched in recent years, has returned to its field watch roots with the 40mm M100 model. Highly legible and balanced in its proportions, there’s a lot of value on offer no matter your budget.
Bulgari Aluminium Chronograph Automatic
The watch department of Bulgari has broken close to a dozen records for ultra-thin watchmaking over the last decade, but just as its high-end watches are a delight on the wrist, so too are its affordable entry-level timepieces. The Bulgari Aluminium Chronograph Automatic is one such popular piece, featuring an eye-catching “panda” dial and a super lightweight aluminum case that sees the entire watch tip the scales at just 77g. Measuring 40mm in diameter and just 11.1mm in thickness, it’s so comfortable you might forget you’re wearing it.
Ming Mosaic Ref. 20.11 GMT GILT
Another young brand that has earned the praise of the watch world is Ming, which was founded in 2017 by a group of enthusiasts who have managed to create an immediately recognizable design language in just a few short years. The Ming Mosaic Ref. 20.11 GMT GILT features a 38mm grade 5 titanium case and a dynamic brown dial, which is given serious visual depth thanks to the hour markers printed on the underside of the sapphire crystal and the skeletonized hands. A watch that blends traditional design cues with details that feel positively futuristic, it’s a great value travel watch made for the 21st century.
Zenith Elite Classic
As far as quintessential mid-century watch design goes, it doesn’t get much purer than the Zenith Elite Classic. Arriving with a polished 39mm stainless steel case, gently tapered lugs and a sunray-finished midnight blue dial, it’s clean, it’s elegant and its face is uncluttered with text. Powered by the automatic calibre Elite 679 movement with a perfectly reasonable 55 hours of power reserve, if you’re after a timepiece that doesn’t demand attention, but succeeds in capturing it anyway, this could be the watch for you.
