Jewelry Designer Emmanuel Tarpin On Creating Nature-Inspired Pieces, Fave Watches And More

A boy wonder, travel and nature-junkie and creative soul, Emmanuel Tarpin has made a name for himself in the world of high jewelry with some of the most unique creations in recent years. In 2017, he made waves in the auction space with a debut at Christie’s. Since then, his work has also caught the attention of some of the most influential names in the industry, including pop icon Rihanna, who was seen wearing his creation to an Oscars afterparty in 2019. In the watch space, Tarpin's reputation and talent earned him a collaboration with  MB&F last year, for which he designed two winter-themed versions of the Legacy Machine Flying T – the Ice and Blizzard editions.

To know more about his creative process, inspiration and the ravishing collaboration with MB&F, we caught up with Emmanuel Tarpin.

Excerpts from the interview:

What got you hooked on jewelry designing?

I'm not from a jewelry family at all. Both my parents are notaries. So I really have no links with gemstones and jewelry. But I’ve had this passion for gemology and jewelry since my childhood. I have been practicing sculpting for 13 years, and have always had this need to create with my hands. My journey into the jewelry industry began when I studied at the School of Art and Design in Geneva, specializing in the watch, accessory, and jewelry department. After completing my studies, I worked at Van Cleef & Arpels in the high jewelry workshop in Paris, where I gained a thorough understanding of the entire jewelry-making process, from the initial inspiration to the final product and all the steps in between. This experience was essential to me, as I believe it is crucial to have a comprehensive knowledge of the craftsmanship involved in jewelry-making. As a result of my passion and experience, I founded my own brand five years ago.

What inspires you the most?

I am very inspired by nature. I create a lot of floral and plant-themed pieces that are very nature-inspired. I believe this is because I grew up in the French Alps, surrounded by mountains and lakes. I  also used to, and still continue to travel a lot, all around the world. I have had some incredible experiences with my family in places such as Mongolia, China, and Japan.

When I used to travel, it was always off the beaten path. With my parents, we lived with nomads in Mongolia, in the middle of the steppe, riding horses. I also spent months living with monks in the forests of Japan, without any tourists around. My parents always emphasized the importance of experiencing local cultures and meeting people, instead of just staying in a hotel. They taught my sister and me to be curious, open-minded, and willing to meet new people, which has inspired me to continue traveling and exploring the world. I love nature and art, so I often visit art exhibitions and museums, which also inspires me. While my pieces are mostly nature-inspired, I don't want to limit myself to just one theme. I am open to change and new ideas, and my clients also inspire me with their own ideas and inspirations. 

How did you come to collaborate with MB&F? 

I used to study at the School of Art and Design and during my second year, Max (Büsser) came to talk about MB&F. I love watches and I also collect them, so I was very curious about what he had to say. I was drawn to his energy and the way he presented things and shared his knowledge. Max is someone very special, although it's difficult to explain the feeling he gives off. When it comes to working with people, I prefer to have good connections and relationships rather than just focusing on finding the best price or the best provider. I had a very good connection with Max from the beginning, and we first met when I was a student in Geneva. Years later, after I had started my own brand, he reached out to me and expressed interest in working together. We had a natural and spontaneous dialogue about our shared interests and concerns, and that's how our collaboration began.

I love it when things happen naturally, without any need for pushing or forcing. It's a great feeling to work with someone who truly understands and appreciates your work.

What was it like to design a watch? And that too, with MB&F, one of the most unconventional independent brands out there?

The craftsmanship and techniques used by MB&F to create their watches are very different and unique. I learned about the brand, the techniques, and the materials they use. They gave me a lot of creative freedom to create something that was jewelry-inspired and not just about the stones, but also about in volume. So I wanted to create something very precious.

As a nature-inspired designer, I wanted to create something inspired by winter. I came up with two different models, the Blizzard and one inspired by stalactites. The idea was to create a watch that would make you feel and sense something when you wear it, like the feeling of cold. We used diamonds and paraiba tourmaline to create a blue ice color, and we changed the color of the mechanism to a full white color scheme. The Blizzard was inspired by snowflakes, like a snow globe, and it was also inspired by my childhood memories of winter in the French Alps.

What was the most challenging aspect of designing a watch?

When I was designing the watch, I had to work within a small space, which was a challenge. I also used new materials that I wasn't familiar with, such as a lapis lazuli dial. I wanted to change things up a bit, since normally in watches or jewelry, lapis is polished. Instead, I chose to leave the rough texture of the stone to create more contrast with the deep blue color and the white diamonds. I wanted to create a sense of life and volume in the watch, which was achieved through the contrast and sparkle of the different materials.

What differences did you notice between designing a watch and a jewelry piece?

That's a good question. For me, watches are like jewelry. They are part of a bracelet, but there is also a mechanical aspect that is not always present in traditional jewelry. However, in some cases, jewelry can have very complicated mechanisms, sometimes even more so than watches, so it really depends.

For me, jewelry is like wearable sculpture. It's a form of expression, it's art. And I would say that watches are quite similar in that sense. It's all about the feelings they evoke. When I wear a watch, it holds a special meaning for me. For example, I am currently wearing my favorite watch, which is a Patek Philippe. It represents traveling and has a story behind it. For me, both watches and jewelry are about telling a story through the object, whether it's a watch or a piece of jewelry.

Have you considered working with other watch brands?

I prefer to focus on my own brand. I'm not close-minded, but I love to concentrate on my own work. I don't collaborate with a lot of people because, as I mentioned earlier, I need to feel a good connection with them. When I do collaborate, I want to be fully committed and trust the people I'm working with. It has to be a natural fit, which is quite rare. So I'm not actively seeking collaborations but rather prefer to focus on my work.

What are some textures/ materials you like to work with?

I love to experiment, and it's a big part of my work. I enjoy exploring colors, contrasts, and textures, and I'm always on the lookout for new materials and patinas. I have worked with aluminum, titanium, bronze, brass, ceramic, and lacquer. Each material has its own unique properties and characteristics. For example, aluminum is lightweight and can be colored, while titanium is very strong. Bronze can create beautiful green patinas. I choose materials based on my inspiration, and I'm open to using whatever I feel is interesting and appropriate for the design.

What do you look for in a perfect piece?

It's funny because during the creative process, when I'm sketching and thinking, I feel like a kid – literally. I don't restrain my thinking or limit my ideas in any way. I approach it with an innocent vision and draw inspiration from my childlike curiosity.

When I'm working on a piece, I just follow my intuition and know when it's good or not. It's a very spontaneous and natural process that can sometimes take just a few minutes. If I have an idea, I can quickly sketch it out and have a clear vision of what I want to create.

Ultimately, I think it's all about following my instincts and trusting my creative vision. That's what allows me to create unique and exciting pieces that are true to my artistic style.

What’s the memorable piece you’ve worked on?

I always have a special connection with the pieces I create, even though they are all different. I need to feel proud of each piece and strive for a feeling of "WOW" when I finish. I experiment with new materials and stones, constantly striving for new and exciting surprises.

For instance, when I first tried working with ceramic, I created white orchids that were the same weight as real flowers. It was impressive because they looked so fragile but were actually quite strong. I love the feeling of creating something new and surprising myself with each piece.

I'm a curious person and need to be surprised every day; boredom is the worst. Even if an experiment fails, I have the drive to try again and again.

What was that feeling like when you sold your first piece? 

I was terrified when my first piece was sold at Christie's in New York. I was only 25 at the time, and it was for the magnificent jewels auction. I was surrounded by big brands and names, and nobody knew who I was. I was scared that nobody would buy my piece because I was young and unknown.

However, despite my fears, I was also excited. It's not common for people to buy jewelry from unknown artists, and most prefer to stick to big names. But even though I was scared, I was thrilled to have the opportunity to showcase my work at such a prestigious event.

Do you have a collection of watches?

I think I have around 15 or so, but they are all quite iconic. My husband and I have the Crash from Cartier and a World Time from Patek, among others.

Which are your top three watches?

I would say I love my two world time watches because I love to travel, and it's convenient to have the time in each country. The enamel work on the watch is also quite impressive and adds a unique jewelry element. I have another world time watch in white gold with a different map.

Another favorite of mine is a vintage Rolex Day-Date with a lapis dial. It's very blue and quite striking. I also love the vintage Patek 3700 in yellow gold. It's very flat and has a brushed gold texture that gives it a masculine and elegant look. I prefer watches with texture rather than shiny polished gold or gemstones.

I love when there's a story behind the watch and that's why it's difficult for me to change watches once I've started wearing them, even if I like them all.