Our list of must-haves for an enticing horological library
We live in an information-saturated age, where everything from museum-grade research through to high-resolution photographic inspiration is a few taps away. Despite all this — or perhaps because of it — the traditional ink and paper book holds an important place in our hearts, and on our shelves.
Charlie Dunne, vintage watch researcher and founder of Strictly Vintage Watches, who has the apt Instagram handle @books_on_time, argues that print has several advantages over digital content. "I'm a huge fan of online content and find myself learning each day through articles published on watch websites, as well as through individuals on social media. I would never discount the work of talented researchers and enthusiasts that create in the digital space. For better or worse, anyone can write online about watches. The process of creating a physical resource, written in the traditional approach, is something to be admired. There is so much information within watch literature that remains offline, ready for those eager to learn."
In one way or another, education is at the heart of most watch books. They can serve as tome-like compilations of data on production dates and the minutiae of specific references. Or, they can serve as technical treatises detailing the finer points of amplitude and its effect on isochronism. These two examples exist at the more specialized end of the spectrum. Books that serve as a focused encyclopedia or lush coffee table photographic essay are as aspirational as they are informative. For many collectors, this sort of text serves as a touchpoint for their own collection or a way to explore new pathways in the realm of horology.
Finally, books on watches can serve as an extension of the collection itself. Be that tracking down an obscure out of print manual or brand materials for decades past. This type of printed material can become a meaningful part of the ephemera that adds depth and value to a watch collection. For Dunne, finding this sort of literature can be as challenging as finding a pristine vintage watch. "Online marketplaces like Abebooks are a good place to start, and of course, there are antiquarian book dealers who can seemingly find anything for the right price. It can be challenging because we might not have been able to afford a book back in the day or maybe hadn't been aware – or even alive – during its initial release. I've spent a great deal of money on books I dreamed about finding. Watch collectors – or even the publishers/authors themselves – can be an integral part of sourcing an out-of-print book. Many of the most treasured additions to my personal library came by way of a friend, an author, or a retailer finding a copy for me without asking for anything in return."
In that spirit, we've come up with a list of our go-to watch books, covering a few bases from education to inspiration and places in between. Some of them are easily available on Amazon or in your local bookshop. Others — like the watches they discuss — will require a little sleuthing to track down.
Watchmaking by George Daniels
What it's about
George Daniels is regarded by many as the greatest watchmaker of the twentieth century, a cantankerous genius who created some truly significant, staggeringly beautiful watches. In this book, written in 1981, Daniels breaks down how to do it, expertly covering traditional techniques, machining and theory in a very technical, almost unforgiving way that is entirely in keeping with Daniels approach.
Why we recommend it
This book isn't for the faint of heart, and it isn't for the beginner. If you buy this expecting watchmaking 101, you'll quickly discover that you signed up for a PHD in advanced horology. However, if you're serious about your horological education and want to go well beyond the marketing spiel, it's a great resource and an invaluable reference. It's also well worth it if you're getting into practical watch repair or even watchmaking proper.
The WatchThoroughly Revisited by Gene Stone and Stephen Pulvirent
What it's about
In 2006 Gene Stone published The Watch, which provided a broad overview of significant brands and iconic models, as well as offering a useful glossary. This 2018 edition, co-authored with then-Hodinkee editor Stephen Pulvirent, updates the text to reflect the current state of the watch world, adding in 430 new models, collector profiles and more.
Why we recommend it
If you want a palatable, pretty, and comprehensive overview of what's what in watches, this book is a great place to start. And while the subject matter is broad, with brands typically getting a page of history — the content is authoritative and useful. This is a great book to start someone's education in watches or serve as an always on-hand offline overview.
Moonwatch Only: The Ultimate Omega Speedmaster Guide by Gregoire Rossier and Anthony Marquie
What it's about
Not all works of watch literature are broad in scope. Some focus, in great depth, on a single brand or model. Moonwatch Only is exemplary of this approach. It does what it says on the tin. All 566 pages and 1150 color images celebrate and study the iconic Omega Speedmaster Professional, and serves as a canonical history and reference guide for the legendary chronograph.
Why we recommend it
Let's be straight about one thing, if you have no interest in the Omega Speedmaster, you probably shouldn't buy this book. Thankfully, the Moonwatch is one of the most universally loved watches of all time and certainly one that has immense historical significance. If you can appreciate these things, you'll love Moonwatch Only.
Rolex: The Impossible Collection by Fabienne Reybaud
What it's about
This book is worthy of the Rolex Crown. Part of luxury lifestyle publisher Assouline's Impossible Collection series, this extravagantly produced 194-page book provides a deep dive into the most iconic watch brand, covering their milestones, significant models and the history and philosophy behind Hans Wilsdorf's famous brand.
Why we recommend it
Everything about this book, from the production to the photography to the design is stunning. Equal parts informative and inspirational, it's a perfect, hard-to-find object for the Rolex collector in your life.
A Grand Complication: The Race to Build The World's Most Legendary Watch by Stacey Perman
What it's about
Unlike all the other books on this list, Stacey Perman's isn't a reference book or a brand history. Rather it's a story of a legendary rivalry between American plutocrats James Ward Packard and Henry Graves Jr. It was a rivalry centred around watches, in particular the so-called Henry Graves Supercomplication made by Patek Philippe, which sold most recently in 2014 for USD 24 million.
Why we recommend it
Most of the time, when we talk about the historical significance of watches, we're talking about history in a very specialist sense. A Grand Complication shows us that watches can be central actors in broader historical events. On top of that, Perman provides an insightful, outsider's perspective into the insular world of watch collecting.
The Magic of Watches: A Smart Introduction to Fine Watchmaking by Louis Nardin
What it's about
Louis Nardin's smart little book isn't just an introduction to watches. It's an introduction to the magic of watches. This very Swiss text breaks down everything you need to know about fine watches, from mechanisms to machine finishes in a clear and concise way.
Why we recommend it
While the subject matter and approach of The Magic of Watches might sound dry, Nardin does an excellent job of showing the art, craft and heart inherent in these objects. It's a book that's pared-back and beautiful, just like the watches Nardin writes about.
Time Tamed by Nicholas Foulkes
Time Tamed
What it's about
Nicholas Foulkes is one of the world’s most respected and engaging luxury journalists, and in Time Tamed, he turns his finely honed analytical lens to the history of telling time. From primitive water clocks to solving the longitude problem, Foulkes tells the story of time in an engaging, easy-going, and utterly expert manner.
Why we recommend it
Sometimes it’s easy to think that the mechanical objects we care so much for are a frivolity, an anachronism that serves no purpose. What Foulkes manages to do, and do with style, is remind us of the real historical problems that were solved through timekeeping and how the watch on your wrist is the latest in a long evolutionary chain of timekeeping technology.
Audemars Piguet 20th Century Complicated Wristwatches, a collective work by Audemars Piguet
What it's about
Few institutions are as well-placed to advance scholarship on a particular maker as the brand themselves. Such is the case with Audemars Piguet’s in-depth work on their complicated wristwatches, from 1900 to 2000. And while the Royal Oak dominates modern conversations, this exquisite 308-page reference guide includes pretty pictures, but balances them with real substance.
Why we recommend it
Audemars Piguet is an extraordinary brand, and this book dives into some of the reasons they’re regarded amongst the best of the best. For serious collectors, it’s a must; for scholars of complication, it’s a must; for anyone wanting to learn what makes AP tick, it’s a must.
A look inside the Audemars Piguet 20th Century Complicated Wristwatches book ©Charlie Dunne