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Urwerk

Five Great Movie Villains & The Watches They’d Wear

Our Fave Star Wars Characters & Watches We Wish They Wore

The Most Important Decades In Modern Watchmaking (Part 2: The 1990s)

Small Brands, Big Wrists: Celebs Who Love Independent Watchmakers

&nbsp;

In today’s episode of wristchats, our founder&nbsp;Austen Chu speaks to Martin Frei ― design genius and co-founder of Urwerk ― about the evolution of the brand's space-themed watches over the last 25 years, his biggest inspirations so far — and his perception of time itself.

&nbsp;

<h3>Watch the full video here:</h3>

<iframe 0="" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/5TD-TrDg2oI" style="display: block; margin: auto;" width="560"></iframe>

Wristchat with Martin Frei, Co-founder and Chief Designer of Urwerk

In this instalment of our fundamentals-focused series, we take a protractor to circles, squares and even those hybrid geometries which have inspired the shape of watches across the years
&nbsp;

Chances are – but don’t quote me on this – that if you were to ask 100 randomly selected passersby to paint you a picture of a wristwatch, at least 50 would begin with something in the ballpark of a circle. It’s a motif that has been folded indelibly into the iconography of watchmaking for quite some time, and with good reason. Consider, if you will, any number of the quintessential building blocks in a mechanical wristwatch: gear train, mainspring, chaton, rotor. For over a century, the vast majority of those parts were circular and concentric; so it seemed only logical that the external shell housing them should adopt a similarly complementary curvature. Not for nothing, in the days prior to computer-aided manufacturing, it was also a helluva lot easier to produce roundly shaped cases that were resistant to water, dust, and other environmental perils.

The round watch’s preeminence speaks to industry-wide adherence for that most classic pearl of wisdom – “form follows function”. And yet, on a number of occasions, brands (and the watchmakers who shape their destinies) have repeatedly wandered off the enclosed curve: a clunky metaphor for all the interesting, non-circular shapes watch cases have been twisted into over the last century. Between the myriad, individually collectible riffs on the Cartier Tank to the notoriously ergonomic tonneau of Richard Mille, you’re about to discover firsthand that watches really do come in all shapes and sizes.&nbsp;

<h3> 
'Round the World</h3>

A logical place to begin our discussion about iconic watchmaking shapes, round watches account for the vast majority of what you’ll see in the wild, at boutiques, and when you attend your local get-together. Very much a self-explanatory kinda category, it’s no surprise that this shape accounts for many of the most ubiquitous watch designs of all time. In no particular order: multiple ‘professional’ series of Rolex sports watches (i.e. Explorers and the GMT-II), Patek Philippe’s enduring ‘Calatrava’ collection, and even outwardly avant-garde creations such as the <a href="https://wristcheck.com/buy/debethune/db28xp-starry-sky-w00179hofdb000">De Bethune DB28</a>.&nbsp;

&nbsp;
<img alt="Wristcheck" data-caption="The Rolex GMT Master II ref. 126710BLNR &quot;Batgirl&quot;" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="545e280d-c76c-4251-87b9-a4fa2865826d" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/64/DSCF0782_0.jpg" width="1568" /><img alt="Wristcheck" data-caption="The Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar ref.&amp;nbsp;5159R-001" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="8660d7d1-d84e-41f6-b937-ca6c89db2940" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/64/DSCF7665%2520%25281%2529%25202.jpg" width="1568" /><img alt="Wristcheck" data-caption="The De Bethune DB28 &quot;Kind Of Blue&quot; Tourbillon" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="33bce366-379c-430d-89af-e1b0217ea52d" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/64/KEV_3002.jpg" width="1568" />
&nbsp;

In addition, the symmetry and ordered visual sensibility of round cases make them an ideal foundation for complicated watchmaking. Because the total amount of usable surface area is maximised in a shape without any corners, you’ll often see watches with information-dense displays (think chronographs, perpetual calendars or a hybrid of the two) that utilise round cases.

<h3> 
Tanks and Other Rectangles</h3>

Almost certainly the second most populous category of watchmaking shape, rectangular timepieces (and their many brand-specific derivations) have played a key role in the progression of watch designs since the early 1900s. By far less common than their roundly shaped brethren, the creation of these watches frequently ran concomitant with breakthroughs in technology and the rise of international artistic movements like the Avant-Garde.

&nbsp;
<img alt="Wristcheck" data-caption="The Cartier Tank Cintrée&amp;nbsp;&lt;em&gt;(Image source: Revolution)&lt;/em&gt;" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="638a73b3-cee0-42f4-9269-133dca443d46" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/64/Rectangular_Cintree%2520reissue%2520flatlay.jpg" width="1568" /><img alt="Wristcheck" data-caption="The&amp;nbsp;Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Duoface in pink gold &lt;em&gt;(Image source: Jason Reekie for Time+Tide)&lt;/em&gt;" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="27b24945-54e9-4c02-8fa3-ab7e3c0a9ec7" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/64/JLC-Reverso-Tribute-Duoface-4-845x550%25402x.jpg" width="1568" />
&nbsp;

Unsurprisingly, the rectangular design which has exerted the most influence over watch culture continuously is the Cartier Tank – the original incarnation of which was released in 1917, amidst the turbulent geopolitical landscape of WWI. Inspired by the then-revolutionary shape of hulking Renault tanks being deployed by the Allied Powers across Europe, Louis Cartier conceived a rectangular case shape that would eventually become the basis for some of the brand’s most covetable designs: including the Americaine, Cintrée, and Normale. Cartier notwithstanding, other honourable mentions include Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Reverso and a number of Patek Philippe references (e.g. the Ref. 5124G) from the ‘Gondolo’ collection.&nbsp;

<h3> 
Hip to be Square</h3>

Another defining style of shape for watchmakers during the mid-20th century, almost every brand with an avowed knack for time-only dress watches – Audemars Piguet, Vacheron Constantin, Piaget – has, at some point, had a crack at square cases. Although the tradition of square casemaking is closely associated with thin time-only watches in precious metal, brands specialising in sporting activities would go on to experiment with this shape at various phases during the 1970s.&nbsp;

&nbsp;
<img alt="Wristcheck" data-caption="The TAG Heuer Monaco&lt;em&gt;&amp;nbsp;(Image source: Phillips)&lt;/em&gt;" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="c32fcf59-6e7c-41fa-af60-dcada6b15541" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/64/Square%2520watches_Heuer%2520Monaco.jpg" width="1568" />
 
In order to distinguish itself from the vast glut of brands producing round-cased chronographs, in 1969 Heuer debuted the Monaco – a self-winding racer’s watch that would be immortalised just two years later in the Steve McQueen sports drama Le Mans. Although the Monaco’s original calibre 11 movement has been the subject of much adulation (and rightfully so), its brutish square case – crafted for Heuer by celebrated casemaker Ervin Piquerez – eventually became its most recognisable feature, signalling a deviation away from the previous generation of dressier, more diminutively sized chronographs. &nbsp;

<h3> 
"Grab a Cushion"</h3>

Widely characterised as being square with ‘rounded off corners’, cushion-shaped watches are yet another oddity of the 20th century: combining the symmetry and legibility of the traditional round case with the sharp, angular lines of a four-sided polygon. Over the years, a variety of brands like Omega and Grand Seiko have opted to dress the cushion case up; although, its greatest ambassador is still (invariably) the original Panerai Radiomir.

&nbsp;
<img alt="Wristcheck" data-caption="The Panerai Radiomir ref. PAM 00021&amp;nbsp;&lt;em&gt;(Image source: Phillips)&lt;/em&gt;" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="c7c8b5c4-8e8a-44f6-9229-cb745b525dde" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/64/download%2520%25281%2529.png" width="1568" />
 
Commissioned by the Royal Italian Navy and delivered to the force’s divers in 1936, the first Radiomir – named for the luminous material that adorned its dial – was a beast of a diving watch, intended primarily for underwater military use. The cushion case, composed of multiple, individually sealed parts, demonstrated superior water resistance and remains, till this day, a big part of Panerai’s characteristic ‘action hero’ aesthetic. Although frequently conflated with the tonneau (see the paragraph below), cushion cases are a separate, if somewhat similar category of shape. &nbsp;

<h3> 
A ‘Tonneau’ Fun</h3>

Translated literally from the French for ‘barrel’, the tonneau is easily one of watchmaking’s most emblematic case shapes. Put simply, it includes any wristwatch that has a broadly rectangular profile, with the distinguishing characteristic being convex sides, often with the addition of rounded corners. In contrast to jewellery and industrial design – where the geometric form language of squares and rectangles is well-known – the tonneau is uniquely tied up in horological design, having given us some of the enduring icons of the 20th century.&nbsp;

&nbsp;
<img alt="Wristcheck" data-caption="Left to right: The&amp;nbsp;Richard Mille RM 67-02 'High Jump' and the RM 67-01" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="9191f87e-9592-4f19-9568-f669849fa7db" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/64/DSCF4235_3x2%2520%25281%2529.jpg" width="1568" /><img alt="Wristcheck" data-caption="The Richard Mille RM029 &quot;Yellow Flash&quot;" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="19922e4d-f67a-434d-9269-c1f01006c538" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/64/RM029-01.jpg" width="1568" /><img alt="Wristcheck" data-caption="The Urwerk 100V IRON" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="97396ca4-18fc-4a07-bbbe-5c168d1877ad" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/64/UR100V%2520IRON-01.jpg" width="1568" />
&nbsp;

Needless to say, here at Wristcheck we’re big fans of the tonneau and the way in which this idiosyncratic shape adapts itself to the peculiarities of different aesthetic styles. In the guise of technical watches like the Richard Mille <a href="https://wristcheck.com/discover/editor's-pick/the-richard-mille-rm-67-01-and-rm-67-02-'high-jump'">RM 67-01</a>, the shape appears lean and industrial; yet it’s also an extremely effective foundation for watch designs emphasising the shape and finish of the bezel. By far the most influential of these is the <a href="https://wristcheck.com/discover/watch-drop/the-audemars-piguet-royal-oak-"jumbo"-extra-thin-ref.-15202pt">Royal Oak</a>, released by Audemars Piguet in 1972. Even today, the signature feature of this archetypal luxury sports watch remains its octagonal bezel: a handsome combination of satin-brushed and mirror-polished finishes, studded (in an ode to antique diving helmets) with 8 exposed screws. This aspect of the Royal Oak’s design language has proven so impactful, in no small part, because of the surrounding tonneau shape. The case is an excellent framing device for the sharp, geometric edges of the bezel; and merges seamlessly into the bracelet without the visual interruption we’d associate with separately attached lugs.&nbsp;

&nbsp;
<img alt="Wristcheck" data-caption="The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 'Jumbo' Extra Thin ref. 15202BC" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="1d29da7c-fd7d-4b01-a518-2df1b275af0c" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/64/593A0049.jpg" width="1568" /><img alt="Wristcheck" data-caption="The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked in Black Ceramic&amp;nbsp;ref. 26585CE" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="bffac0ed-8c9b-403b-ab78-e05d149376be" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/64/593A0239.jpg" width="1568" />
<h3>&nbsp;</h3>

<h3>Asymmetry and the Avant-Garde</h3>

Unsurprisingly, over the decades there have been a robust number of watch designs which don’t fit neatly into either a geometric or circular space. Something of a two-part category, the first asymmetrical watches may be traced back to at least the mid-20th century, with silhouettes like the Cartier Crash continuing to exert profound influence on collectors today who have a penchant for design that is intriguing and iconoclastic (if LUMBERJACK is to be believed, <a href="https://sub.rescapement.com/p/cartier-so-light-thought-i-floated">Tyler the Creator is a fan</a>).&nbsp;

&nbsp;
<img alt="Wristcheck" data-caption="The Cartier Crash Skeleton in pink gold" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="dc2003c3-1d5f-4504-97ab-657d20b3bdb1" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/64/DSCF8910.jpg" width="1568" />
 
In the realm of ‘avant-garde’ watchmaking, there are precious few collectives as routinely mad-cap (nor as consistently successful) as MB&amp;F. Most pertinently, the brand’s ‘<a href="https://www.mbandf.com/en/machines">Horological Machine</a>’ collection explores the notion of what is possible when one infuses complicated watchmaking with the whimsy of childhood. Mind you, these designs aren’t necessarily asymmetric, but they’re also the farthest thing from ‘conventional’: showing off shapes that are inspired by boyhood obsessions ranging from 70s-era supercars (the HM5) to early turbojet engines (the HM9).

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<img alt="Wristcheck" data-caption="The MB&amp;amp;F&amp;nbsp;HM9-SV RG in Blue &lt;em&gt;(Image source: MB&amp;amp;F)&lt;/em&gt;​​​​​​" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="49fd6336-f027-4137-9bc5-c0419e0b7d50" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/64/MBandF_HM9_SV_RG_Blue_Front_preview.jpg" width="1568" /><img alt="Wristcheck" data-caption="The MB&amp;amp;F HM5 CarbonMacrolon&amp;nbsp;&lt;em&gt;(Image source: MB&amp;amp;F)&lt;/em&gt;​​​​​​" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="0ce3d07f-9a74-497c-8e49-377bde7fab8c" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/64/HM5-Carbon-Macrolon-Front_preview.jpg" width="1568" />
&nbsp;

Iconic Case Shapes in Watchmaking

Watchmaking's future reimagines the past
For years Urwerk has created wrist-born visions of the future, hours and minutes released in whirling satellites and high-tech displays. The UR-100 brings that vision back to the brand's origins:&nbsp;a smaller, sleeker case still powered by Urwerk's distinctive vision of watchmaking. Since its debut, there have been a few variants of the UR-100, but the most distinctive — and one of the rarest at only 22 pieces — is the UR-100V T-Rex.&nbsp; 
&nbsp;

<img alt="Wristcheck" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="506bf69e-b00e-4c4a-9427-a80a88f193b2" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/34/593A4247 (2).jpg" width="1568" />

<h3> 
Seeing time differently</h3>

Urwerk was founded by Felix Baumgartner and Martin Frei in 1997, a time of explosive creativity in the world of independent watchmaking. The turn of the millennium saw the birth of some of the great indies; F.P. Journe and Vianney Halter for example. From the earliest days Urwerk was concerned with alternative time-telling displays; wandering hours and satellites.&nbsp;

In 2005 Urwerk released a watch that changed their business:&nbsp;the fifth evolution of Harry Winston's Opus series, which saw Urwerk's unique satellite display evolve into the combination of ingeniously rotating cubes displaying the hours and retrograde minutes that we are familiar with today.&nbsp;

<h3> 
The out of this world UR-100</h3>

<img alt="Wristcheck" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="1a7a66b8-a666-40c0-95ef-10a770d94c42" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/34/593A4331.jpg" width="1568" />

 
Over the last decade or so, Urwerk has evolved, continually pushing the boundaries of what is possible, and using increasingly complex mechanisms to make that happen. In 2019 Urwerk decided to go back to their roots, with the UR-100 series of watches; featuring a leaner case and profile, packed with an astronomical take on Urwerk's understanding of time. The hours are displayed using orbital hour satellites (with generous luminous inlay, naturally). 
&nbsp;
<img alt="Wristcheck" data-caption="Hours are displayed using orbital hour satellites with a luminous inlay" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="0126b54a-2896-4295-9df8-5d9bbc2e33fe" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/34/593A4316.jpg" width="1568" /><img alt="Wristcheck" data-caption="A red-tipped marker indicating retrograde minutes sits&amp;nbsp;the tip of each of the three satellites" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="caf5d918-571f-4a18-a0a0-720d71c49909" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/34/593A4309.jpg" width="1568" />
 
At the tip of each of the three satellites sits a red-tipped marker indicating retrograde minutes. But when that marker hits '60' its journey isn't done. As the satellites continue to revolve, this indicator moves from minutes to displaying a series of astronomical indications. Across a 20 minute span of time, it marks how far earth travels on its axis at the equator (555.55 kilometres, in case you're wondering). The indicator at two shows a much larger scale; the distance the earth travels around the sun every 20 minutes; some 35,740 km.&nbsp;

The functional aspects of these space-time displays is – let's be honest – limited, but they serve an important philosophical function; always reminding the wearer that time isn't an abstract, arbitrary concept but is actually rooted in concrete ideas that literally impact our place in the universe.&nbsp; 
&nbsp;

<h3>Essential Urwerk 
&nbsp;</h3>
<img alt="Wristcheck" data-caption="The T-Rex is powered by Urwerk's Calibre 12.01" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="b68365db-bb04-4053-9a6b-5a3eb845e09e" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/34/593A4302.jpg" width="1568" />
 
The mechanism that allows this level of temporal time-telling is the Calibre 12.01, built of a complex ARCAP baseplate, and automatic with a rotor governed by a low-profile 'Windfäng' flat turbine to minimise shock and wear. The satellites themselves are made from beryllium bronze in an aluminium carousel. It's a sleek and modern movement to the casual observer and one that very much holds up under the closest scrutiny. This is what Urwerk does; technical, smart watchmaking that continually reminds us that time can be more than an hour hand and a minute hand. And the UR-100 series is very much essential Urwerk. 
&nbsp;

<img alt="Wristcheck" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="43578de0-13c5-4487-a839-e39020b8bec4" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/34/593A4303.jpg" width="1568" />

<h3> 
Going Jurassic&nbsp;</h3>

The technical side is all well and good, but the drama and tension in this watch come not from the slowly rotating satellites, but the case. At 41mm wide by 48.7mm lug-to-lug and only 14mm thick, the UR-100V is on the smaller side for an Urwerk, something which slender-wristed fans the world over should celebrate.&nbsp; 
&nbsp;

<img alt="Wristcheck" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="53e61f39-8678-46e2-814f-1982fd7185c0" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/34/593A4369_0.jpg" width="1568" />
<img alt="Wristcheck" data-caption="The T-Rex is 41mm wide, 48.7mm lug-to-lug and 14mm thick" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="0820b2bf-8e94-4d23-a0ae-b7788bebf592" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/34/593A4271.jpg" width="1568" />
 
What makes the Urwerk UR-100V stand out is the case, which has been given the startling ‘T-Rex’ treatment. As a brand Urwerk is famous for looking to the future, so it's something of a surprise to see them mining pre-history for inspiration. But this isn't the first time.

In 2016 the UR-105 was the first watch to receive the T-Rex treatment, and earlier this year the finish roared back into reality with this limited UR-100V. 
The T-Rex concept can be described on paper pretty simply as a bronze case with an exaggerated Clous de Paris (a guilloché pattern featuring intersecting hollowed lines that form miniscule pyramidal shapes) finish. But that description falls short, both in how it looks, and the amount of work that goes into achieving it.&nbsp; 
&nbsp;

<h3>Bronze, aged</h3>
<img alt="Wristcheck" data-caption="The case is forged out of patinated bronze" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="39d20f0a-10cd-4f07-a9cc-db3c23c5cf68" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/34/593A4300_0.jpg" width="1568" />
 
The case is made from bronze and blackened titanium. The bronze has undergone numerous treatments to achieve a look that is akin to the ancient, fossilised skin of an extinct monster. First, the raw block of the patina-friendly alloy is milled to give the pattern of scales on the case. From there, the case is sandblasted and burnished to give the once-bright alloy an appropriately aged appearance. Finally, the bevels and edges are polished to give the case a pleasing tactility. And make no mistake, this is an exceptionally tactile case, where the high-touch areas like the crown and edges of the case will develop bright highlights and unique wear patterns. 
&nbsp;

<img alt="Wristcheck" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="4b2e4b03-acce-446a-8663-579587c642b6" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/34/593A4273.jpg" width="1568" /><img alt="Wristcheck" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="783c90d2-0752-4e17-98c3-a2ba558d0e26" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/34/593A4294.jpg" width="1568" />

 
Urwerk's UR-100V T-Rex is a watch of contrasts, the modern, almost cerebral movement engineering design is seemingly at odds with the raw, primal energy of the bronze case. But get closer to the watch and what unites the watch is the quality of thought and execution that goes into every element of construction.&nbsp; 
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<h3> 
Specifications</h3>

Urwerk&nbsp;UR-100V T-Rex 
Reference number:&nbsp;UR-100V

Case size:&nbsp;41mm 
Thickness: 14mm 
Material: Engraved patinated bronze 
Crystal: Sapphire 
Water-resistance:&nbsp;30m

Movement: Calibre UR 12.02 
Functions: Satellite hours, minutes, earth’s rotational distance in 20 minutes, earth’s orbital distance in 20 minutes 
Winding: Self-winding 
Frequency:&nbsp;28,800 vph / 4 Hz 
Power reserve:&nbsp;48 hours 
Strap:&nbsp;Black alligator&nbsp;

Availability:&nbsp;Limited to 22 pieces 
Price:&nbsp;CHF 50,000 (HKD 388,388)

For further information, visit&nbsp;<a href="https://www.urwerk.com/collections/ur-satellite/ur-100">Urwerk online.</a>

In-depth with the Urwerk UR-100V T-Rex

One of watchmaking's most important independent brands has done it again. The UR-100V' Blue Planet' has a lot going on, so let's dive in
<h3>&nbsp;</h3>

<h3>Revolutionising Time</h3>

As a guy fascinated with the history behind watchmakers, Urwerk are a brand that I adore. I don't think it's too unfair to say that they have single-handedly revolutionised how watchmakers perceive time itself, the very construct the industry is fixated with. Founded in 1997, Urwerk's founders Martin Frei and Felix Baumgartner sought to design and create Haute Horlogerie timepieces that would fuse traditional watchmaking with futuristic design and vision. &nbsp;

Their original design inspiration was the arc of the sun across the sky, and to create a watch that would tell the time like a sundial – with a single hour numeral representing the sun moving along a semi-circular minute track spanning from 9 to 3 o'clock. This intuitive design and visual representation of time as we naturally know it – where the sun is in the sky – is what Urwerk's design has continuously been based on, and allows them to stand out as a genuinely independent watchmaker in every sense of the phrase.&nbsp;

While many indie brands have particular niches within the industry, I don't think many brands can say that they have innovated within their niche to the extent that Urwerk have, and that's an incredible feat that deserves commendation. While Urwerk’s original design inspiration is clearly related to the <a href="https://www.watch-wiki.net/index.php?title=Audemars_Piguet_Star_Wheel#:~:text=See%2520Also-,History,complication%2520in%25201990%2520or%25201991.&amp;text=Among%2520these%2520was%2520the%2520Millenary,Minute%2520Repeater%2520was%2520also%2520created.">Audemars Piguet Star Wheel</a>, they have taken a fragment of an idea and developed upon it in an amazing, bold and consistent way that speaks to their ingenuity as watchmakers and designers alike.

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<img alt="Wristcheck" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="d65ce91e-a763-4800-9b5f-8ef45a76fe3f" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/29/593A3465.jpg" width="1568" />

<h3>&nbsp;</h3>

<h3>The UR-100V 'Blue Planet'</h3>

Released on April 1st 2021, the UR-100V continues Urwerk's core collection, the UR-100, while also expanding upon it in a wonderfully exciting way. Inspired by Urwerk's roots, the UR-100V "Blue Planet" tells the time as Urwerk envisaged it all those years ago, while also featuring a whole host of astronomical complications that build upon its solar and celestial-inspired design origins and push Urwerk's watchmaking credentials even further into the ether of Haute Horlogerie.&nbsp;

Continuing with Urwerk's original design philosophy and fascination with space, the UR-100V "Blue Planet" features a litany of nods to the role the heavenly and astrological have had on the brand. Just looking at its name, the phrase "Blue Planet" can either be a reference to the name of David Attenborough's legendary documentaries focused on the natural world, or the term "Pale blue dot" that Carl Sagan coined in reference to Voyager 1's iconic 1990 picture of Earth from about 6 billion (with a b) kilometres away that shows our wonderful planet as a tiny pale blue dot within a band of light amongst the blackness of space.&nbsp;

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<img alt="Wristcheck" data-caption="Continuing with Urwerk's original design philosophy and fascination with space, the UR-100V &quot;Blue Planet&quot; features a litany of nods to the role the heavenly and astrological have had on the brand" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="fb838bb9-ef0a-4bfc-b36a-c7b855bca20c" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/29/593A3522.jpg" width="1568" />
<h3>&nbsp;</h3>

<h3>Where Innovation and Creativity Collide</h3>

With many watches that feature innovative movements and incredible complications, they tend to look quite cookie-cutter in their execution. Not to say they aren't good looking watches, but anyone can tell the Urwerk UR-100V "Blue Planet" is a unique watch thanks to its stunning design. Featuring a monochromatic blue design all over, it is visually gripping, to say the least.&nbsp;

&nbsp;
<img alt="Wristcheck" data-caption="Constructed of sandblasted stainless steel, its 41mm width x 49.7mm length x 14mm thick case has been given a blue PVD treatment all over" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="bf8bf806-88e5-42b9-83be-3a1eeff1058d" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/29/593A3489.jpg" width="1568" /><img alt="Wristcheck" data-caption="The UR-100V &lt;em&gt;Blue Planet&lt;/em&gt;'s&amp;nbsp;titanium case back is also PVD-coated" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="9715669b-e968-4b49-8b58-40beb1430a22" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/29/593A3497.jpg" width="1568" />
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While a lot of brands tend only to colour their dials or bezels, the Blue Planet lives up to its name and is almost entirely blue. Constructed of sandblasted stainless steel, its 41mm width x 49.7mm length x 14mm thick case has been given a blue PVD treatment all over. Furthermore, the titanium case back is also PVD-coated and features a nice nod to the brand's earlier models in the form of a bubble-like sapphire crystal. Fit onto a blue textile leather-backed strap with matching blue stitching; the monochromatic design is gorgeous.

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<img alt="Wristcheck" data-caption="UR-100V &quot;Blue Planet” is paired with a&amp;nbsp;blue textile leather-backed strap with matching blue stitching" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="9a0149b8-64dd-42f5-af7c-a259e17132db" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/29/593A3492.jpg" width="1568" />
<h3>&nbsp;</h3>

<h3>Time Telling and The Celestial</h3>

While the dial is far from what you'd typically expect on a watch, it provides the UR-100V "Blue Planet” with a lot of its character. Featuring wandering hour satellites and a yellow arrowhead that arc along the bottom of the dial and point to the corresponding minute track that occupies the same trajectory, the UR-100V "Blue Planet" is surprisingly legible. With the digital numeral being housed much closer to the minute track than previous UR-100s, the user experience is made that bit more pleasant.

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<img alt="Wristcheck" data-caption="The&amp;nbsp;&lt;em&gt;Blue Planet&lt;/em&gt;&amp;nbsp;features&amp;nbsp;wandering hour satellites and a yellow arrowhead that arc along the bottom of the dial and point to the corresponding minute track that occupies the same trajectory" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="6502ab95-f9d8-4470-9da7-dc3667444f2a" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/29/593A3449.jpg" width="1568" />
&nbsp;

Beyond just the hours and minutes, the dial also indicates where along the Earth's 555.55-kilometre rotation around the equator we are. As the 555.55km journey lasts 20 minutes, the 2nd of the three yellow arrowheads appears at 9 o'clock and remains visible until 11 o'clock or thereabouts, tracking the journey. Mirrored on the other side of the dial, the third yellow arrowhead appears at 1 o'clock and follows the Earth's 20-minute-long 35,742km journey in its orbit around the sun until 3 o'clock. While these pieces of information are somewhat trivial, they compound upon Urwerk's fascination with the celestial and otherworldly in quite a romantic way.&nbsp;

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<h3>&nbsp;</h3>

<h3>The Life Source</h3>

As with any watch, the UR-110V relies on its movement to provide it with its life. The UR-100V features a new movement that includes a redesigned carousel that brings the wandering hours satellites closer to the minutes scale, as I mentioned earlier. This cal. 12.01 is also, paradoxically, more exposed under the UR-100V's dial than its sapphire crystal exhibition caseback. Most of what we see is its drilled full rotor and its black baseplate – one of the free non-blue parts of this watch. Like most Urwerk baseplates, this one is made from ARCAP, an iron-free antimagnetic alloy.&nbsp;

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<img alt="Wristcheck" data-caption="The UR-100V features a new movement, the&amp;nbsp;cal. 12.01" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="5f30a8ed-4d3f-48d1-90ad-955461a30ca2" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/29/593A3482.jpg" width="1568" />
<img alt="Wristcheck" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="6b1fb92b-1ff2-47e6-902b-ac6dbb35550b" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/29/593A3480.jpg" width="1568" />

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Interestingly, this winding rotor is regulated by a flat "Windfänger" turbine. This is designed to minimise shocks caused by sudden movements and prevent the rotor's bearing from experiencing excessive wear and tear or overwinding. Ticking away at 28,800 vibrations per hour, the Urwerk cal. 12.01 features a power reserve of 48 hours, which is something I wish they would have beefed up, but that's just me – it is an automatic movement, so it shouldn't be too much of a worry.&nbsp;

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<img alt="Wristcheck" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="147ccd18-da73-4431-b458-1f692924ff7c" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/29/593A3590.jpg" width="1568" />
<img alt="Wristcheck" data-caption="The UR-100V &quot;Blue Planet&quot;&amp;nbsp;is priced at $53,000, with just 25 pieces made" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="84380075-95fd-4b3f-90ff-e0e3ca3c8f97" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/29/593A3504.jpg" width="1568" />
<h3>&nbsp;</h3>

<h3>Final Thoughts</h3>

When I first discovered Urwerk, I was not a fan of theirs at all, but as I discover, experience and understand the brand's story, inspiration and journey, I have grown to appreciate them. The UR-100V "Blue Planet" might not be a watch for everyone, but in reality, it doesn't need to be. Priced at $53,000 with just 25 pieces made, this is a watch for a collector that wants something unlike any other watch they own or their friends own. Urwerk doesn't make watches to appeal to the masses; they create watches that speak to their own unique identity. And that is perhaps the purest form of watchmaking there is, and the UR-100V "Blue Planet" is probably one of the richest expressions of Urwerk's DNA available, and I love it.&nbsp;

<h3>&nbsp;</h3>

<h3>Specifications</h3>

Urwerk UR-100V ‘Blue Planet’

Reference number:&nbsp;UR-100V

Case size:&nbsp;41mm width x 49.7mm length 
Thickness: 14mm&nbsp; 
Material:&nbsp;Blue PVD steel case, titanium backcase; blue PVD sandblasted steel crown 
Crystal: Sapphire 
Water-resistance: 3 ATM (30m)

Movement: UR 12.01 Self-winding mechanical movement regulated by Planetary Turbine Automatic System 
Functions:&nbsp;Satellite hour and minute indicator, rotation of the earth in 20 minutes, revolution of the earth around the sun in 20 minutes 
Winding: Automatic 
Frequency: 28.800 v/h, 4Hz b 
Power reserve:&nbsp;48 Hours 
Strap:&nbsp;Blue canvas strap

Availability:&nbsp;Limited edition of 25 pieces 
Price:&nbsp;CHF 48,000&nbsp;(HKD $407,560)&nbsp;excl. tax

For further information, visit <a href="https://www.urwerk.com/collections/ur-satellite/ur-100">Urwerk Online</a>.

The Urwerk UR-100V ‘Blue Planet’

Furthering the conversation begun in ‘What is a mechanical watch?’, in this edition of ‘Watch 101’ we delve into the mechanical movement in its two most common forms -- manual and self-winding

<h3>Two ways to wind up</h3>

On the face of things, the distinction between a manually wound and automatic movement seems fairly self-explanatory. But in order to better grasp the effects of both — on timekeeping and indeed the overall wearing experience — a short explanation is in order, as regards the principle of what makes mechanical watches tick. (Editor’s Note: We gave a broad outline of all the various types of movements here, which I urge you to check out before we dive into the present topic.)&nbsp;
<img alt="Wristcheck" data-caption="Automatic movement of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="28d61bee-e053-4e22-9f22-7477d16a7b0f" data-image-style="" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/6/JUN_5360%2520%25281%2529_0.jpg" /><img alt="Wristcheck" data-caption="Automatic movement of Urwerk UR100 T-Rex" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="4c8313e7-46bb-4aa1-a5bb-4a890eea5208" data-image-style="" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/6/593A0974_0.jpg" /><img alt="Wristcheck" data-caption="Automatic movement of Richard Mille RM11-03 Rose Gold" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="409664fa-6905-448e-8039-b614d05fd0ad" data-image-style="" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/6/593A1471.jpg" />
Essentially, in a mechanical watch — whether it be manual or automatic — the kinetic energy that powers the piece emanates from a steel spring (the ‘mainspring’) coiled within a small drum (the ‘barrel’). As the spring unwinds, it gradually releases stored energy: doing so at a rate regulated by the pallet fork and balance wheel (collectively, these two mechanisms form part of what’s known as the ‘escapement’).&nbsp; &nbsp;
<img alt="Wristcheck" data-caption="Manual movement of F.P. Journe Chronomètre à Résonance" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="2c764862-8ee4-421f-9b71-9a46fd5af7cf" data-image-style="" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/6/JUN_3357_0.jpg" /><img alt="Wristcheck" data-caption="Manual movement of Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Quantieme Lunaire" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="04cc5e2b-90b7-4217-88d0-4c38bd89b33e" data-image-style="" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/6/JUN_6377_0.jpg" /><img alt="Wristcheck" data-caption="Manual movement of Chanel Monsieur Watch" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="592c4b78-0ae2-4392-b9bd-6d7ba93656f7" data-image-style="" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/6/JUN_3418.jpg" />
So, in the aforementioned context, when someone says a movement is “manually wound” or “automatic” they’re describing how power gets delivered to the mainspring. Grand Seiko collector and aficionado <a href="https://www.instagram.com/mrzaratsu/">Daniel Yong</a> describes the difference thusly: “In manually wound mechanicals, the mainspring needs to be physically wound. Whereas in an automatic, [the spring] is powered whenever the rotor spins, because of the wearer’s movement of their wrist. Ergo, everytime you see or hear the rotor spinning, you know it’s coiling the mainspring and building up power.”&nbsp; That to-and-from motion also means you theoretically never have to wind your watch — unless of course, the crown is being used to adjust the time, date or various other displays.&nbsp;

&nbsp;

<h3>Between convenience and romanticism</h3>

At this point — assuming you’ve not fallen unconscious — you could be forgiven for thinking the difference between manual and automatic movements boils down to personal taste.&nbsp;

For a plethora of reasons, newcomers to watch collecting will likely have their first substantial interaction with an automatic timepiece. Much of this mass appeal can be chalked up to convenience. Worn regularly (and with the normal range of motion) automatic movements are a decidedly hands-off option for those used to the comforts of 21st century living. “I can understand why people might choose them,” says Yong. “They’re less fussy and are great for people on the go.” In concert with a display caseback — a feature that’s become increasingly common in luxury watchmaking — they also offer an aesthetic medium, showcasing a range of traditional techniques like openworking, hobnailing or the classic striped finish known as Côtes de Genève.
<img alt="Wristcheck" data-caption="Case back of Patek Philippe World Time" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="659e8039-e44c-4179-8fea-954e3acb7879" data-image-style="" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/6/JUN_3956_0.jpg" />
In addition, because the mainspring is periodically rewound as the watch is worn, an argument is often advanced by sticklers for accuracy that automatic movements are more precise — because they’re running at a consistent speed.&nbsp;

Conversely, traditionalists have a tendency to cite a manual movement’s lack of rotor (and all the attendant parts) as one of the key reasons behind its longevity. The logic is simple: fewer moving parts, fewer chances for mechanical error — ditto the average length of service intervals. This goes some way to explaining why tool watches (traditionally associated with high-octane activities) have been fitted, overwhelmingly, with manual movements: when one is being shot at or hurtling into the cold void of space, reliable instrumentation is key.&nbsp;
<img alt="Wristcheck" data-caption="Case back of Bulgari Octo Tourbillon Ultranero" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="4cef3c0f-b217-4d19-816c-516585736a91" data-image-style="" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/6/593A2810_0.jpg" />
Another simple yet compelling advantage of the manual movement is its thinness, as compared to the self-winding alternative. There’s a strong argument to be made that the important dress chronographs of the mid-century (e.g. the Patek Philippe 1518 or Vacheron’s 4072) would not have enjoyed their current status amongst collectors if fitted with chunky, rotor-weighted calibres.

&nbsp;

<h3>A sentimental mood</h3>
<img alt="Wristcheck" data-caption="Front and back of Royal Oak Offshore ‘Jarno Trulli’ chronograph" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="cb2a7422-3994-46b1-8e68-9bf4f80f42a8" data-image-style="" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/6/593A3097%2520%25281%2529.jpg" />
Ultimately, even the seemingly trivial act of winding a crown will convey a good deal about your preferences in movement. For many, in this age of instant gratification, the act of threading the crown can seem a minor irritation, better shelved in favour of something self-governing. For guys like Yong however, there’s still romance in ritual. “Personally, I love hand-winders because they remind me of my childhood toys. Besides, I tend to be quite fidgety at work -- especially when I’m stuck in long, unproductive meetings. In situations like that, a manually-wound movement can be a pleasant distraction. To me, you’re forming a closer relationship with the object because your hands give it life -- if even for a fleeting moment.” One thing’s for certain: you ain’t getting that from a battery.&nbsp;