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Culturecheck

Small Brands, Big Wrists: Celebs Who Love Independent Watchmakers

By Nick Kenyon
5 min read

We're all used to seeing celebrities clad from head to toe in luxurious things they're paid to wear, but there are a few A-listers out there with more personal tastes when it comes to timepieces

One of the most exciting spaces within the world of watch collecting today is the rise and rise of the independent watchmaker. No longer consigned to the back shelves of horological history as points of interest for the most eclectic and unorthodox of collectors, enthusiasm for small-batch, hand-made timepieces has never been stronger than it is today.

The growing gusto for independent watchmaking outfits can be traced to several different collecting motivations, but the strongest of them is the romantic promise of supporting an artist’s craft and the chance to own a watch you’re unlikely to see on the wrist of anyone else. Of course, the best timepieces from the likes of Rolex or Omega are impressive in the consistency of their quality, but when you arrive at a dinner and spot versions of the same steel sports watches on the wrist of most in attendance – there’s an undeniable appeal to zig while others zag.
 

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More and more collectors are increasingly turning to the independents for rare, complex and exquisite handmade watches Photo: Wristcheck

The independent watch collector isn’t interested in having the same watch as the next person, because there’s no expression of personal taste in conformity. They want to stand out, both from their collecting chums and professional peers, because while the watch on your wrist doesn’t have any trouble communicating your net worth, it has the potential to say so much more about who you are.

This motivation can clearly be seen in the celebrities who wear independent watches, as actors, musicians and athletes whose careers have been defined by their points of difference. Similarities aren’t what make the disruptors, the savants and the folks who irrevocably changed the game. So without further ado, let’s take a look at some of the world’s most well-known independent watch enthusiasts.

Michael Jordan – Urwerk UR-220

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Last July, Jordan was seen wearing the Urwerk UR-220 RG, a timepiece inspired by Miami Vice — one of the most famous TV shows from the 1980s Photo: thesportsrush.com

NBA legend Michael Jordan dominated the game of basketball during the 1990s with his relentless work ethic and unmatched competitiveness. It’s probably not surprising that such a unique talent would be drawn to the world of independent watchmaking, but Jordan’s taste in timepieces is elevated, to say the least.

A watch he was spotted wearing recently was none other than the Urwerk UR-220 RG, which was the final model in the UR-220 range that Urwerk produced over the last two years. Featuring a satin brushed luxurious 4N red gold case, the star of the show is the revolving satellite time display where the hour is displayed on a rotating cube hour hand, while the minutes are read via a scale-like minute track traced by the hour hand. While not a limited edition, Urwerk is only able to produce around 10 pieces per year.

Keanu Reeves – Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Memory Time

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Reeves was spotted wearing a Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Memory Time in 2006, well before the current collectibility of independent watchmakers Photo: Getty

Loved around the world for his leading performances in The Matrix series and more recently in John Wick, Keanu Reeves has a well-documented love of motorcycles, but a lesser-known interest in the work of master watchmaker and restorer Michel Parmigiani. Reeves was spotted wearing a Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Memory Time in 2006, well before the current collectibility of independent watchmakers, giving us a how-to guide to buying what you love.

First announced in 1996, the Memory Time was designed by Michel Pargmigiani himself as the first ever watch he released, drawing inspiration from the precision and proportions of Greek architecture. A seriously deep cut from a one-of-a-kind talent. 
 

Samuel L. Jackson – Gerald Genta Bi-Retro

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While enjoying a day on the golf course back in 2004, Jackson was spotted with a Gerald Genta Bi-Retro on his wrist

From Pulp Fiction and Star Wars to Coach Carter and Django Unchained, Samuel L. Jackson has enjoyed one of the most storied careers in Hollywood over the last three decades. While enjoying a day on the golf course back in 2004, Jackson was spotted with a Gerald Genta Bi-Retro on his wrist, just a few years after Bulgari purchased the brand from Singaporean retailer The Hour Glass.

While Genta is celebrated for his designs of both the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and Patek Philippe Nautilus, his own brand continues to remain largely under the radar of most collectors. Featuring a stainless steel case and jump hour aperture at 6 o’clock, the minutes on the Gerald Genta Bi-Retro can be read via the central retrograde hand. 

Swizz Beatz – De Bethune Dream Watch 5 and MB&F Perpetual Evo

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In 2020, De Bethune made the Dream Watch 5 Tourbillon 'Season 1' — a 10-piece limited edition created in collaboration with Swizz Beatz

American record producer Swizz Beatz rose to fame as the producer for DMX and has worked on some of the most well-known hip-hop albums of all time, including Jay-Z’s The Blueprint 3, Drake’s Thank Me Later and Kanye West’s My Beautiful Dark Twisted Fantasy. Despite many rappers' penchant for diamond-encrusted watches from Rolex or Audemars Piguet, Swizz Beatz's taste in watches includes some of the best independent brands in the game. 
Not only does he own an example of the spaceship-esque De Bethune Dream Watch 5, but he was also spotted wearing the Perpetual Evo from MB&F. As far as the music industry goes, Swiss Beatz has some of the best watchmaking taste out there.

Ralph Lauren – Urwerk UR-210 All Black

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In 2017, Ralph Lauren was seen wearing an Urwerk 210 for one of his fashion shows Photo: Hodinkee

As a man who has spent his life building a legacy of love for the preppy aspect of American tailoring, you might expect Ralph Lauren’s taste in watches to be a little more conservative. Despite the designs of his own collection of Swiss-made timepieces being fit for the country club, he wore a blacked-out Urwerk UR-210 on his runway in 2017, adding an avant-garde flair to his otherwise classic ensemble.
As the predecessor to the UR-220 RG that Michael Jordan was spotted wearing, the UR-210 All Black boasts the same style of satellite complication time display but is executed in titanium with a black DLC coating. Powered by Urwerk’s manually wound UR-7.20 caliber, it’s a reminder that Lauren is a man who could pull off any watch – including this remarkable 25-piece limited edition. 

Hans Zimmer – Alain Silberstein Krono Bauhaus 2

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In 2008, Zimmer was seen wearing the Krono Bauhaus 2 — a classic design Alain Silberstein – with its signature bright coloured hands and chunky case profile

If there was ever a film soundtrack that you loved, there’s a good chance it was the work of German film score composer Hans Zimmer. From Interstellar and Dune to Gladiator and The Lion King, the list of blockbuster successes on Zimmer’s resume is reflective of him as one of the most prodigious talents of his generation.

While Zimmer is an IWC ‘friend of the brand’ today, for many years his favorite watchmaker was the cult-followed Alain Silberstein. He owned a number of his chronograph watches. The Krono Bauhaus 2 he was seen wearing in 2008 is a classic design from the brand – with its signature bright coloured hands and chunky case profile, it remains relatively affordable in the world of independent watchmakers.