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All articles featuring playful, unconventional watch designs.

Funky Cases

A Deep Dive Into De Bethune’s Art of Watchmaking 

 The Enduring Importance of the Cartier Crash

No, it’s not the ‘Steve McQueen Blue’ but a vibrant purple that’s calling out fans of TAG Heuer’s most popular racing chrono to try out a dashing new variation, limited to 500 numbered pieces
&nbsp;

TAG Heuer has launched a bold new interpretation of its iconic Monaco, which in 1969 redefined the brand's inventiveness with one of the first square cases – a truly avant-garde style with a blue dial, red second hand, and a left-positioned crown. A '70s smash hit that still remains a star attraction is all about pronounced geometries and a classy mix of vintage and contemporary design elements, a blend that gives the classic round watches a run for their money. 
 
Over the years, TAG Heuer has released Monaco's modern references with blue or black dials, a classic bet. But this year, it presents the Monaco Purple Dial Limited Edition – an edition of only 500 numbered pieces. A refreshing design that aligns with contemporary watchmaking, but at the same time pays homage to the very early Heuer Monaco reference 1113B – the chronomatic version launched at the beginning of 1969. Two years later, American actor Steve McQueen brought the Heuer Monaco watch to the big screen in his movie Le Mans, an event that connoisseurs of the TAG Heuer Monaco lineage find historic and delightful.&nbsp;

&nbsp;
<img alt="TAG Frontal" data-caption="Limited to 500 numbered pieces,&amp;nbsp;the Monaco Purple Dial Limited Edition is a refreshing design that fuses together the brand's vintage codes and contemporary watchmaking skills&amp;nbsp;Photo: Perkin Yu/ Wristcheck" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="7b886edc-0466-4156-b966-a2f42ed73fc9" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/140/TAG%2520Frontal.jpg" width="1568" />
&nbsp;

TAG Heuer's love for speed and its deeply-rooted racing spirit is what all Monacos are made of, and the latest reference is a testimony to this fact. Housed in a 39mm square case in fine-brushed and polished steel, the new reference is revved by TAG Heuer's in-house chronograph movement, the Calibre Heuer 02, which is clearly visible through the sapphire caseback and features a customized oscillating mass, column wheel, and engravings with purple details.

&nbsp;
<img alt="TAG Case" data-caption="The dial gradient, from lighter purple in the center to darker purple at the edge, adds depth and sophistication to the piece&amp;nbsp;Photo: Perkin Yu/ Wristcheck" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="398a7a82-9c21-4713-a3dc-e32abf360c21" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/140/TAG%2520Case.jpg" width="1568" /><img alt="TAG Caliber" data-caption="Powered by&amp;nbsp;TAG Heuer's in-house chronograph movement, the Calibre Heuer 02, this timepiece&amp;nbsp;achieves a power reserve of around 80 hours and is paired with&amp;nbsp;a black alligator strap, beautifully lined with purple on the inside&amp;nbsp;Photo: Perkin Yu/ Wristcheck" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="092b0750-e3e5-4594-b1e1-a86a80b08c18" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/140/TAG%2520Caiber.jpg" width="1568" />
&nbsp;

The movement achieves a power reserve of around 80 hours and the purple Monaco has been paired with a black alligator strap, elegantly lined with purple on the inside. Its purple sunray and the smoked brushed dial has a black minute chronograph counter at 3 o'clock, a permanent second indicator at 6, and a black hour chronograph counter at 9. Water-resistant up to 100 meters, its rhodium-plated applied indexes, hour, and minute hands have been treated with white Super-LumiNova® and its stainless-steel case comes with push-buttons at 2 and 4 o'clock. 
 
The limited-edition reference features a caseback engraved with the piece's number of XXX/500. As this iteration explores the vibrant new aesthetics, it reminds the Monaco enthusiasts of the model’s rich heritage and how it joined the giants of the '60s, the Autavia and the Carrera.

&nbsp;

<h3>Stints With Celebrities</h3>
<img alt="MONACO" data-caption="Steve McQueen on the sets of Le Mans, with a Monaco 1133 B on his wrist&amp;nbsp; Photo: Bernard Cahier" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="7738bd7c-c943-4c56-abb8-abd622238f00" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/140/Steve%2520McQueen%2520on%2520the%2520sets%2520of%2520Le%2520Mans%252C%2520with%2520a%2520Monaco%25201133%2520B%2520on%2520his%2520wrist%2520%2528Image-%2520Bernard%2520Cahier%2529_0.jpeg" width="1568" />
&nbsp;

Monaco's big-screen appearances aren't just limited to wrapping the wrist of ‘King of Cool’ Steve McQueen. Al Pacino, one of the most influential actors of the 20th century, was also seen sporting the chronograph in the 2007 thriller film 88 Minutes.&nbsp; 
 
Another American actor who took Monaco on a movie set is Matthew McConaughey, who wore the watch in the 2003 romantic comedy film How to Lose a Guy in 10 Days. From Will Smith to Brad Pitt, Monaco has successfully found its place in the watch collections of many celebrities.

&nbsp;

<h3>A Look Back</h3>

The vintage Monaco range featured two types of automatic chronographs and two types of manual winding chronographs. One of the references, the 1133, paved the way for the chronomatic and transitional batch of Monacos. The chronomatic Monaco was produced for a very short time, giving way to the transitional version, altering the look of the watch from chronomatic blue to the standard production Reference 1133B, as worn by Steve McQueen.

&nbsp;
<img alt="monaco" data-caption="The Heuer Monaco 1133B&amp;nbsp; Photo: Revolution" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="59b369a9-71c4-477e-899f-f24d78134716" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/140/The%2520Heuer%2520Monaco%25201133B.jpeg" width="1568" />
&nbsp;

In 1972, Heuer launched the Calibre 15 movement, having a 30-minute chronograph register at 3 o'clock and running seconds at 9.30 on the dial, to present an entirely new look for the Calibre 15 Monaco chronographs. In the year 1975, the Monaco was discontinued and the first re-edition of the Monaco was showcased in 1997. 
 
Since then, this celebrated timepiece has been offered in different styles, interesting colors, robust configurations, and hardy materials, following the design codes of the very first models from the 1970s. The Monaco has been ahead of its time and in the last 25 years, it has become a timeless design that collectors and enthusiasts revel in.

&nbsp;
<img alt="monaco" data-caption="The TAG Heuer Monaco limited edition series created for the watch’s 50th anniversary in 2019&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;©TAG Heuer" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="d6948ba9-fcb2-42ab-a692-ac9f620ea59b" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/140/The%2520TAG%2520Heuer%2520Monaco%2520limited%2520edition%2520series%2520created%2520for%2520the%2520watch%25E2%2580%2599s%252050th%2520anniversary%2520in%25202019.jpeg" width="1568" />
&nbsp;

<h3>Specifications</h3>

TAG Heuer Monaco Purple Dial Limited Edition

Reference Number: CBL2118.FC6518 
Movement: TAG Heuer Calibre Heuer 02 Automatic 
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, chronograph 
Power Reserve: 80 hours (approx.) 
Dial: Purple sunray and smoked brushed dial 
Case Material: Polished and fine-brushed stainless-steel case 
Diameter: 39mm 
Water Resistance: Up to 100 meters&nbsp; 
Strap: Black alligator leather with steel folding clasp 
Price: HKD 57,650

For further information, visit <a href="https://www.tagheuer.com/hk/en/?mkwid=s&amp;pcrid=516047015734&amp;pdv=c&amp;pkw=tag%2520heuer&amp;pmt=p&amp;gclid=CjwKCAjwwo-WBhAMEiwAV4dybbTS8TVx-Ouf8qfHcGVa-YNtZL_C2FyYAq0hWSZA3lzLqJnjm8U1ixoCvKQQAvD_BwE">TAG Heuer</a>.

Introducing TAG Heuer's Monaco Purple Dial Limited Edition

In this instalment of our fundamentals-focused series, we take a protractor to circles, squares and even those hybrid geometries which have inspired the shape of watches across the years
&nbsp;

Chances are – but don’t quote me on this – that if you were to ask 100 randomly selected passersby to paint you a picture of a wristwatch, at least 50 would begin with something in the ballpark of a circle. It’s a motif that has been folded indelibly into the iconography of watchmaking for quite some time, and with good reason. Consider, if you will, any number of the quintessential building blocks in a mechanical wristwatch: gear train, mainspring, chaton, rotor. For over a century, the vast majority of those parts were circular and concentric; so it seemed only logical that the external shell housing them should adopt a similarly complementary curvature. Not for nothing, in the days prior to computer-aided manufacturing, it was also a helluva lot easier to produce roundly shaped cases that were resistant to water, dust, and other environmental perils.

The round watch’s preeminence speaks to industry-wide adherence for that most classic pearl of wisdom – “form follows function”. And yet, on a number of occasions, brands (and the watchmakers who shape their destinies) have repeatedly wandered off the enclosed curve: a clunky metaphor for all the interesting, non-circular shapes watch cases have been twisted into over the last century. Between the myriad, individually collectible riffs on the Cartier Tank to the notoriously ergonomic tonneau of Richard Mille, you’re about to discover firsthand that watches really do come in all shapes and sizes.&nbsp;

<h3> 
'Round the World</h3>

A logical place to begin our discussion about iconic watchmaking shapes, round watches account for the vast majority of what you’ll see in the wild, at boutiques, and when you attend your local get-together. Very much a self-explanatory kinda category, it’s no surprise that this shape accounts for many of the most ubiquitous watch designs of all time. In no particular order: multiple ‘professional’ series of Rolex sports watches (i.e. Explorers and the GMT-II), Patek Philippe’s enduring ‘Calatrava’ collection, and even outwardly avant-garde creations such as the <a href="https://wristcheck.com/buy/debethune/db28xp-starry-sky-w00179hofdb000">De Bethune DB28</a>.&nbsp;

&nbsp;
<img alt="Wristcheck" data-caption="The Rolex GMT Master II ref. 126710BLNR &quot;Batgirl&quot;" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="545e280d-c76c-4251-87b9-a4fa2865826d" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/64/DSCF0782_0.jpg" width="1568" /><img alt="Wristcheck" data-caption="The Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar ref.&amp;nbsp;5159R-001" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="8660d7d1-d84e-41f6-b937-ca6c89db2940" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/64/DSCF7665%2520%25281%2529%25202.jpg" width="1568" /><img alt="Wristcheck" data-caption="The De Bethune DB28 &quot;Kind Of Blue&quot; Tourbillon" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="33bce366-379c-430d-89af-e1b0217ea52d" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/64/KEV_3002.jpg" width="1568" />
&nbsp;

In addition, the symmetry and ordered visual sensibility of round cases make them an ideal foundation for complicated watchmaking. Because the total amount of usable surface area is maximised in a shape without any corners, you’ll often see watches with information-dense displays (think chronographs, perpetual calendars or a hybrid of the two) that utilise round cases.

<h3> 
Tanks and Other Rectangles</h3>

Almost certainly the second most populous category of watchmaking shape, rectangular timepieces (and their many brand-specific derivations) have played a key role in the progression of watch designs since the early 1900s. By far less common than their roundly shaped brethren, the creation of these watches frequently ran concomitant with breakthroughs in technology and the rise of international artistic movements like the Avant-Garde.

&nbsp;
<img alt="Wristcheck" data-caption="The Cartier Tank Cintrée&amp;nbsp;&lt;em&gt;(Image source: Revolution)&lt;/em&gt;" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="638a73b3-cee0-42f4-9269-133dca443d46" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/64/Rectangular_Cintree%2520reissue%2520flatlay.jpg" width="1568" /><img alt="Wristcheck" data-caption="The&amp;nbsp;Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Duoface in pink gold &lt;em&gt;(Image source: Jason Reekie for Time+Tide)&lt;/em&gt;" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="27b24945-54e9-4c02-8fa3-ab7e3c0a9ec7" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/64/JLC-Reverso-Tribute-Duoface-4-845x550%25402x.jpg" width="1568" />
&nbsp;

Unsurprisingly, the rectangular design which has exerted the most influence over watch culture continuously is the Cartier Tank – the original incarnation of which was released in 1917, amidst the turbulent geopolitical landscape of WWI. Inspired by the then-revolutionary shape of hulking Renault tanks being deployed by the Allied Powers across Europe, Louis Cartier conceived a rectangular case shape that would eventually become the basis for some of the brand’s most covetable designs: including the Americaine, Cintrée, and Normale. Cartier notwithstanding, other honourable mentions include Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Reverso and a number of Patek Philippe references (e.g. the Ref. 5124G) from the ‘Gondolo’ collection.&nbsp;

<h3> 
Hip to be Square</h3>

Another defining style of shape for watchmakers during the mid-20th century, almost every brand with an avowed knack for time-only dress watches – Audemars Piguet, Vacheron Constantin, Piaget – has, at some point, had a crack at square cases. Although the tradition of square casemaking is closely associated with thin time-only watches in precious metal, brands specialising in sporting activities would go on to experiment with this shape at various phases during the 1970s.&nbsp;

&nbsp;
<img alt="Wristcheck" data-caption="The TAG Heuer Monaco&lt;em&gt;&amp;nbsp;(Image source: Phillips)&lt;/em&gt;" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="c32fcf59-6e7c-41fa-af60-dcada6b15541" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/64/Square%2520watches_Heuer%2520Monaco.jpg" width="1568" />
 
In order to distinguish itself from the vast glut of brands producing round-cased chronographs, in 1969 Heuer debuted the Monaco – a self-winding racer’s watch that would be immortalised just two years later in the Steve McQueen sports drama Le Mans. Although the Monaco’s original calibre 11 movement has been the subject of much adulation (and rightfully so), its brutish square case – crafted for Heuer by celebrated casemaker Ervin Piquerez – eventually became its most recognisable feature, signalling a deviation away from the previous generation of dressier, more diminutively sized chronographs. &nbsp;

<h3> 
"Grab a Cushion"</h3>

Widely characterised as being square with ‘rounded off corners’, cushion-shaped watches are yet another oddity of the 20th century: combining the symmetry and legibility of the traditional round case with the sharp, angular lines of a four-sided polygon. Over the years, a variety of brands like Omega and Grand Seiko have opted to dress the cushion case up; although, its greatest ambassador is still (invariably) the original Panerai Radiomir.

&nbsp;
<img alt="Wristcheck" data-caption="The Panerai Radiomir ref. PAM 00021&amp;nbsp;&lt;em&gt;(Image source: Phillips)&lt;/em&gt;" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="c7c8b5c4-8e8a-44f6-9229-cb745b525dde" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/64/download%2520%25281%2529.png" width="1568" />
 
Commissioned by the Royal Italian Navy and delivered to the force’s divers in 1936, the first Radiomir – named for the luminous material that adorned its dial – was a beast of a diving watch, intended primarily for underwater military use. The cushion case, composed of multiple, individually sealed parts, demonstrated superior water resistance and remains, till this day, a big part of Panerai’s characteristic ‘action hero’ aesthetic. Although frequently conflated with the tonneau (see the paragraph below), cushion cases are a separate, if somewhat similar category of shape. &nbsp;

<h3> 
A ‘Tonneau’ Fun</h3>

Translated literally from the French for ‘barrel’, the tonneau is easily one of watchmaking’s most emblematic case shapes. Put simply, it includes any wristwatch that has a broadly rectangular profile, with the distinguishing characteristic being convex sides, often with the addition of rounded corners. In contrast to jewellery and industrial design – where the geometric form language of squares and rectangles is well-known – the tonneau is uniquely tied up in horological design, having given us some of the enduring icons of the 20th century.&nbsp;

&nbsp;
<img alt="Wristcheck" data-caption="Left to right: The&amp;nbsp;Richard Mille RM 67-02 'High Jump' and the RM 67-01" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="9191f87e-9592-4f19-9568-f669849fa7db" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/64/DSCF4235_3x2%2520%25281%2529.jpg" width="1568" /><img alt="Wristcheck" data-caption="The Richard Mille RM029 &quot;Yellow Flash&quot;" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="19922e4d-f67a-434d-9269-c1f01006c538" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/64/RM029-01.jpg" width="1568" /><img alt="Wristcheck" data-caption="The Urwerk 100V IRON" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="97396ca4-18fc-4a07-bbbe-5c168d1877ad" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/64/UR100V%2520IRON-01.jpg" width="1568" />
&nbsp;

Needless to say, here at Wristcheck we’re big fans of the tonneau and the way in which this idiosyncratic shape adapts itself to the peculiarities of different aesthetic styles. In the guise of technical watches like the Richard Mille <a href="https://wristcheck.com/discover/editor's-pick/the-richard-mille-rm-67-01-and-rm-67-02-'high-jump'">RM 67-01</a>, the shape appears lean and industrial; yet it’s also an extremely effective foundation for watch designs emphasising the shape and finish of the bezel. By far the most influential of these is the <a href="https://wristcheck.com/discover/watch-drop/the-audemars-piguet-royal-oak-"jumbo"-extra-thin-ref.-15202pt">Royal Oak</a>, released by Audemars Piguet in 1972. Even today, the signature feature of this archetypal luxury sports watch remains its octagonal bezel: a handsome combination of satin-brushed and mirror-polished finishes, studded (in an ode to antique diving helmets) with 8 exposed screws. This aspect of the Royal Oak’s design language has proven so impactful, in no small part, because of the surrounding tonneau shape. The case is an excellent framing device for the sharp, geometric edges of the bezel; and merges seamlessly into the bracelet without the visual interruption we’d associate with separately attached lugs.&nbsp;

&nbsp;
<img alt="Wristcheck" data-caption="The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 'Jumbo' Extra Thin ref. 15202BC" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="1d29da7c-fd7d-4b01-a518-2df1b275af0c" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/64/593A0049.jpg" width="1568" /><img alt="Wristcheck" data-caption="The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked in Black Ceramic&amp;nbsp;ref. 26585CE" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="bffac0ed-8c9b-403b-ab78-e05d149376be" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/64/593A0239.jpg" width="1568" />
<h3>&nbsp;</h3>

<h3>Asymmetry and the Avant-Garde</h3>

Unsurprisingly, over the decades there have been a robust number of watch designs which don’t fit neatly into either a geometric or circular space. Something of a two-part category, the first asymmetrical watches may be traced back to at least the mid-20th century, with silhouettes like the Cartier Crash continuing to exert profound influence on collectors today who have a penchant for design that is intriguing and iconoclastic (if LUMBERJACK is to be believed, <a href="https://sub.rescapement.com/p/cartier-so-light-thought-i-floated">Tyler the Creator is a fan</a>).&nbsp;

&nbsp;
<img alt="Wristcheck" data-caption="The Cartier Crash Skeleton in pink gold" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="dc2003c3-1d5f-4504-97ab-657d20b3bdb1" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/64/DSCF8910.jpg" width="1568" />
 
In the realm of ‘avant-garde’ watchmaking, there are precious few collectives as routinely mad-cap (nor as consistently successful) as MB&amp;F. Most pertinently, the brand’s ‘<a href="https://www.mbandf.com/en/machines">Horological Machine</a>’ collection explores the notion of what is possible when one infuses complicated watchmaking with the whimsy of childhood. Mind you, these designs aren’t necessarily asymmetric, but they’re also the farthest thing from ‘conventional’: showing off shapes that are inspired by boyhood obsessions ranging from 70s-era supercars (the HM5) to early turbojet engines (the HM9).

&nbsp;
<img alt="Wristcheck" data-caption="The MB&amp;amp;F&amp;nbsp;HM9-SV RG in Blue &lt;em&gt;(Image source: MB&amp;amp;F)&lt;/em&gt;​​​​​​" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="49fd6336-f027-4137-9bc5-c0419e0b7d50" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/64/MBandF_HM9_SV_RG_Blue_Front_preview.jpg" width="1568" /><img alt="Wristcheck" data-caption="The MB&amp;amp;F HM5 CarbonMacrolon&amp;nbsp;&lt;em&gt;(Image source: MB&amp;amp;F)&lt;/em&gt;​​​​​​" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="0ce3d07f-9a74-497c-8e49-377bde7fab8c" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/64/HM5-Carbon-Macrolon-Front_preview.jpg" width="1568" />
&nbsp;