Patek Philippe Aquanaut Chronograph ref. 5968

The Origins

Debuting in 1997, the Patek Philippe Aquanaut was released to engage with a new kind of clientele - a younger, sportier, and trendier watch collector that was newly minted on the back of the dot.com stock market explosion. Released under the same premise as the Nautilus when it was released in 1976 – a trendy sports watch for a new clientele, the Aquanaut raised suspicions from Patek’s traditional collectors with its position as the first Patek to feature a rubber strap – something collectors saw as a cheap design option at the time. Following on from its debut, the Aquanaut has grown into a rather diverse collection of iconic and sought-after timepieces, with the reference we have here standing as one of the newest additions to the collection, the Aquanaut Chronograph ref. 5968.

Debuting as Patek Philippe’s second sports watch, the Aquanaut was built upon the foundations that the Nautilus had already laid twenty years prior, while also expanding into new territory that the Nautilus and Patek Philippe as a whole had never resided within before. Released in 1997, the Aquanaut updated the Nautilus’ sporty design so as to offer greater performance while also remaining trendy and stylish, so as to speak to a new younger clientele. Additionally, the Aquanaut boasted Patek Philippe’s renowned craftsmanship as Patek Philippe sought to appease their traditional customer base and maintain the standards that had earned them their place within the watchmaking hierarchy.

Sporting a tropical rubber strap – a first for Patek at the time, a softened octagonal bezel and an interestingly textured dial, the Aquanaut began life with a rather slow start, but eventually found its footing in the marketplace. With 120m of water resistance and its casual aesthetic, the Aquanaut forged its place within Patek’s catalogue, a place that it has today rightfully kept since the collection’s debut. As one might imagine, the Aquanaut has seen several references join its ranks, and one of the most on-brand references given the Aquanaut’s sporty demeanour is the Aquanaut Chronograph ref. 5968.

Released in 2018, the Patek Philippe Aquanaut Chronograph ref. 5968 expanded upon the Aquanaut’s original sporty functionality in perhaps the truest way that watchmaking knows how, the addition of a chronograph function – one of the sportiest of complications there is out there. Taking the Nautilus ref. 5980’s movement and transplanting it into the Aquanaut, Patek Philippe once again breathed life into the collective sports watch offerings and stepped up the Aquanaut’s utility as an all-rounder.

The Case and Dial

Perhaps the Aquanaut’s most obvious link to the Nautilus is its case shape and construction. Famed for its soft octagonal shape, the Nautilus’ imprint on the Aquanaut is obvious, with the corners of the Aquanaut’s eight-sided bezel even softer than its sibling. Additionally, another link to the Nautilus’ case is the shape of the Aquanaut’s crown guards which resemble the porthole hinges that flank either side of the Nautilus’ case. Adding some individuality to the Aquanaut’s case are its lugs, which give the watch a more casual aesthetic than the Nautilus simply as it more closely resembles a typical watch that you might see every day directly as a result.

While its case design features odes to the Nautilus’ case profile, the ref. 5968 boasts the largest case diameter out of any Aquanaut variant, alongside the ref. 5168, with a 42.2mm diameter. However, with the addition of its pushers flanking its winding crown at 2 and 4 o’clock, the ref. 5968 wears and feels larger than its time and-date only sibling, with a slightly busier dial that gives the watch a more balanced aesthetic, as the empty space in other Aquanaut variants is being put to use just as the empty space on the side of the ref. 5968’s case is being put to use to accommodate its pushers.

Moving past its case brings us to what resides inside of it; the ref. 5968’s stunning dial. Featuring the Aquanaut’s grenade-like texture across its surface, the ref. 5968’s dial comes complete with a single chronograph subdial at 6 o’clock, much like the Nautilus ref. 5890 – a result of them sharing the same movement, which gives the ref. 5968 a decidedly sporty look on the wrist, and adds another practical element to the watch as a whole.

The Movement

Powering the ref. 5968 is the automatic cal. 28-520 C flyback chronograph movement, a testament to Patek Philippe's relentless pursuit of mechanical excellence. This movement, visible through the ref. 5968’s sapphire crystal caseback, boasts Patek’s esteemed level of finishing alongside a host of impressive technical feats such as its Gyromax balance and a Spiromax® balance spring that allow it to perform at its impressive standard. While its power reserve might only be up to 55 hours, it has a perfectly apt 4Hz beat rate and an incredibly seamless operation that ensures you know you’re using a watch from one of the best watchmakers in the world.

Celeb Love

Of course, as a sports watch from Patek, the Aquanaut ref. 5968 has proven to be immensely popular with celebrities. While other Aquanaut variants are typically quite toned down, the Aquanaut Chronograph ref. 5968 is a little bit punchier on the wrist, with increased presence on the wrist when compared to other variants. This is presence comes as a result of the ref. 5968’s larger stature, but also its bolder use of colours. For example, the stainless steel variant might boast a grey dial, but it features orange accents on its dial alongside an orange strap. 

Additionally, the two white gold variants feature either blue or khaki dials – both of which also stand out that bit more, which, when combined with the Aquanaut’s toned-down design creates a perfect middle ground that celebrities like Sergio Ramos, Kevin Hart, Lionel Messi, Robert Lewandowski, Sha Rukh Khan, Drake, Jason Statham and so many more seem to appreciate.

Market Performance

Like other sports watches from high-end brands like Patek Philippe, the Aquanaut is a truly sought-after watch across the board. Like many other watches from Patek Philippe, the ref. 5968’s performance boils down to the particular dial color and case material that you opt for. Interestingly, the ref. 5968 also breaks a general rule of thumb whereby steel variants from a collection will generally have a better price premium than the precious metal variants, which in turn have the highest market values. With the ref. 5968, the stainless steel ref. 5968A rules the roost across the board.

So, not only does the stainless steel ref. 5968A fetch the highest market value of $130000 versus the khaki green ref. 5968G’s market value of $125000 and the blue ref. 5968G’s market value of $127000, but it also lays claim to the best price premium of 136%, which dwarfs the khaki and blues premiums of 65% and 68%, respectively. Of course, this is to be expected given the ref. 5968A’s much more affordable MSRP of $55320 versus the ref. 5968G’s MSRP of $75890.

Check out the live performance of Patek Philippe Aquanaut Chronograph ref. 5968 at The Wristcheck Index