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The Secret to the Cartier Tank's Success

By Felix Scholz
31 May 2023
6 mins read

The century-old design of the Cartier Tank is a style icon and has remained relevant over generations. Here's what makes it great

One of Cartier's top-tier releases for 2023 has been the Cartier Privé Tank Normale, a contemporary reimagining of the very first Tank model, designed in 1917 by Louis Cartier. There's a lot to like about this exclusive yellow gold or platinum release — not least the incredible seven-link bracelet. Perhaps the most remarkable thing about this watch is just how little the fundamental design of the Tank has changed in the last 106 years.

The secret to the indefatigability of the Tank — is no secret at all. It's all to do with the shape. Before we dive into the long life of this seemingly simple shape, it's worth taking a quick detour back to the dawn of the modern wristwatch, an innovation in which Cartier played a central role.

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One of Cartier's top-tier releases for 2023 has been the Cartier Privé Tank Normale, a contemporary reimagining of the very first Tank model, designed in 1917 by Louis Cartier Photo: Cartier

While the Tank is arguably Cartier's most famous design, it wasn't the first. That honor goes to a design from 1904, made for well-heeled Brazilian aviation pioneer Alberto Santos-Dumont, solving the problem of not being able to use a pocket watch while operating a heavier-than-air flying machine. As the 20th century rolled on, it became increasingly apparent that wearing a watch on the wrist had numerous advantages — and the horror of modern conflict, in the shape of World War I, ensured that the future of watches was on the wrist. Of course, the Great War also directly inspired Louis Cartier to design his famous Tank, which takes its name and design from the distinctive top-down silhouette of that famous armored vehicle. In fact, Cartier presented the American General Pershing with a prototype Tank watch making the military leader one of the first famous wearers of the Cartier Tank but certainly not the last.

Cartier presented the American General Pershing with a prototype Tank watch making the military leader one of the first famous wearers of the Cartier Tank but certainly not the last Photo_ Cartier.png
Cartier presented the American General Pershing with a prototype Tank watch making the military leader one of the first famous wearers of the Cartier Tank but certainly not the last Photo: Cartier

While the transition from pocket to wrist was a significant factor in the early appeal of this modern watch, it's the shape that really stands out. Not only is it a strong design in its own right, but it's one instantly associated with Cartier. The strength of the design of the Tank can be put down to just how well Louis Cartier — and generations of subsequent Cartier designers — have understood the essence of the watch. The Tank is, and always will be, a rectangle. The geometric parameters of this design might seem strict, but the reality is that this clarity of vision allows for near-endless creativity, allowing Cartier to play with the concept of the Tank, and play with it over the years. This is why the design has had so much variation over the decades, and why the Cartier Tank never feels tired or tied to a particular era. No matter when it is made, the Tank feels modern.

Tank Anglaise Rose Gold Large .png
The Tank Anglaise Rose Gold Large

This creativity began surprisingly early in the life of the Tank. The original model — the Tank Normale — was sold in 1919. In 1922, we saw the release of the Tank Louis Cartier, a design that has become the most enduring and classic of the many Tank iterations. Beyond that, the first decades of the Tank's life also saw models like the curvy Cintrée, the closed-off Tank à Guichets, and the Losange (a precursor to the Asymétrique). This diversity of creative expression is impressive enough, but add to that, the fact that the Tank sold less than 6000 units in its first 50 years of existence, and this wealth of design is unimaginable today.

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Inspired by the boxy Renault armored tank, this is the 1919 Cartier Tank watch

Great design is an essential element of the Cartier Tanks' success, but it isn't the whole story. The immense cultural cachet of this long-lived design goes a long way. Cartier has been an important brand for a long time — longer even than the lifespan of the Tank — so it should come as no surprise that the brand has a long and storied list of famous wearers. It was the choice of performers and entertainers, from silver-screen heartthrob Rudolph Valentino wearing a Tank in 1926 The Son of the Sheik to jazz legend Duke Ellington's Tank à Guichets and Steve McQueen's Cintrée — it's always been a standout choice that speaks of elegance. It's also a versatile watch. Most people would place the watch on the dressier end of the spectrum, but it can work well in more casual settings, as the heavyweight champion Muhammed Ali demonstrates with a classic Tank Louis Cartier. Add to this list Andy Warhol, Truman Capote and Cary Grant, and you might have the idea that the Tank is the watch of the cultural elite. Well, you're not wrong, but it's also the watch of the political and social elite. Diana, Princess of Wales, is one of the more famous Cartier wearers in recent times, often spotted in a range of Tanks, including a Tank Française that was worn — not coincidentally — by Meghan Markle in her famous Oprah interview. It's also the watch of choice for that iconic figure of American not-quite-royalty, Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis — her Tank was sold by Christie's in 2017 for almost $400,000 to noted Cartier fan Kim Kardashian, of all people.

Left_ Rudolph Valentino wearing a Tank in 1926’s film The Son of the Sheik Right_ Duke Ellington circa 1930 wearing the Cartier Tank à Guichets _ Credit_ Collection F.Driggs_Magnum Photos.png
Rudolph Valentino wearing a Cartier Tank in 1926’s film The Son of the Sheik (left); Duke Ellington circa 1930 wearing the Tank à Guichets Photo: Collection F.Driggs/ Magnum Photos (right)

Take a step back from this laundry list of famous names. Aside from their fame and influence, it's an incredibly diverse list. Athletes, royalty, writers, reality stars — and yet, Cartier's genuinely timeless design fits them all equally. What Cartier has created over the years is an object that almost transcends the category of watch. The Cartier Tank is a cultural symbol that means different things for different wearers. The watch is an essential part of the upper-class uniform, and some, like Warhol and Diana and Jackie O, wore it as such. For people who moved in those social circles, Cartier was the obvious and somewhat safe choice. While no one denies that more contemporary wearers like Kim K and Meghan M are very much part of the cultural elite, their choice of the Cartier Tank reads somewhat differently. For them, the Tank isn't a part of the membership pack given to them when they entered society; it's something they claimed for themselves; it's a deliberate — not a default — choice.

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Magazine advertisement from November 1983 (left); Cartier’s advertisement from December 1979 (right) Photo: WatchCrunch

One of the greatest things about the Cartier Tank is that, for a watch of its pedigree and prestige, it's quite accessible. Of course, I'm not talking about that lovely platinum Tank Normale or the exclusive skeleton models. Instead, there are watches like the Tank Must, which is offered in innovative Solarbeat quartz models, as well as more modernist models with bold block color dials. These watches are well-priced and (as far as a luxury watch goes) an affordable option. Importantly though, they're not a watered-down option. They are every inch the Tank, of the same peerless lineage as those worn by Warhol and Ali. That is incredibly powerful.

At this point in its long product life cycle, the Cartier Tank is a watch that manages many things at once — it is rigid in form and design, yet at the same time endlessly dynamic. It's also a watch that speaks to many people, from someone looking for their first 'good' watch to seasoned collectors chasing that elusive Privé model. What Louis Cartier's genius design has achieved is a watch that is at once democratic and exclusive, a watch that knows no barriers. 

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