Her Hour: Archana Thani on the Power of Watches and Jewelry

For decades, watches and jewelry have been partaking in a dance. For years, the two have always been seen as separate identities complementing one another, but perhaps this partnership has now reached a new stage of affinity. Now more than over, we seem to be witnessing a shift towards not only the jewelry watch, but jewelry and watches existing together in a way that represents not only sartorial identity, but perhaps also a cultural one. 

Such is the case for jewelry curator, trend forecaster and an avid watch collector, Archana Thani. From as young as she could remember, she has always been captivated by jewelry and gemstones. “You could always catch me trying on my mother’s, aunts, or grandmother’s jewelry – literally anyone’s jewels I could get my hands on! I think I was taken by its transformative power,” she reminisces. “The women in my family were always pretty simple dressers and I’d love to see how jewelry and watches completely changed the way they looked and felt. The older I got, the more I was captivated by the stories and craftsmanship behind jewelry and watches.” 

It was perhaps this early fascination with the connection between watches and jewelry that led to Thani’s role as the former Managing Editor of Vogue India, where she inevitably shaped the narrative between how jewelry and timepieces come together in the world of fashion and style. Now, as a jewelry curator, this perception is stronger than ever. “Jewelry and watches share a profound connection through their craftsmanship, design, and the emotions they evoke. Both serve as personal expressions of style and heritage, often becoming heirlooms passed down through generations,” she reflects. “For women, these pieces are not only accessories but also statements of identity and elegance, seamlessly blending form and function.”

Thani also draws a strong connection to jewelry and what it represents for her as an Indian woman. “My Indian heritage profoundly influences my approach to both jewelry and watch collecting. In India, jewelry has a rich historical significance, deeply embedded in cultural traditions,” she explains. “From a young age, Indian women are accustomed to wearing jewelry, and families often start collecting pieces for daughters early on, with an eye towards creating heirlooms.”

As for watch collecting, this heritage and philosophy has shaped Thani’s perspective on timelessness and versatility. “My approach is to find watches and jewelry that are not only exquisite, but also versatile enough to be cherished and passed down through generations,” she describes, drawing a clear connection to the significance of heirlooms that she was brought up with. Which perhaps has led to her contemplation of the most sentimental watch in her collection: a 21 Must de Cartier.

“[It is] over 20 years old and was originally gifted to my sister for her high school graduation – she recently passed it on to me. She inspired my love for watches so having this piece from her just makes it that much more special. It’s a permanent favorite in my collection,” Thani reflects. It is this strong connection to her family and heritage that makes Archana’s perspective on jewelry and watches so special. To her, they are not simply just objects of affection but symbols of her culture and identity. Whenever she puts on a piece of jewelry or a watch, she is paying homage to the women who raised her and traditions that shaped her. For her, jewelry and watches have transcended typical notions of self-representation. Instead, they have transformed into totems of the self.

As for how this has been applied to the women’s watch market, she describes: “For a few years now, the women’s watch market has been experiencing a significant shift. What was once considered strictly feminine or masculine is blending seamlessly, reflecting a broader shift in how gender and fashion intersect. We are seeing a move away from the rigid market segmentation between men’s and women’s watches, moving beyond traditional stereotypes.  Women are increasingly choosing designs that were traditionally seen as ‘masculine,’ signifying a departure from outdated stereotypes.”

The sentiment perfectly aligns with how traditional gender roles have been increasingly questioned over the past decade. Gone are the norms of gender dichotomies, with a new age of fluidity being ushered in. As Thani so aptly describes, the intersection at which gender and fashion come together continues to thwart typical stereotypes. Of course, this is nothing new within fashion, but it’s a refreshing evolution to witness this come to the world of watches. For timepieces, the presumption goes deeper than that: these are the watches that men should wear, and these are the watches that women should wear.

Luckily, this is no longer the case and watch lovers – regardless of gender – are wearing watches simply for the way that they are appreciated, and not for the way that they are expected to be worn. This shift has, in part, come to a head thanks to social media. In addition to the change in the attitude towards gender expectations, so is there a repositioning of the statement a watch can make.

“Something I can’t ignore from the appetite I see through Instagram, is how watches are increasingly viewed as jewelry,” Thani observes. “This shift is exemplified by the positive reactions to pieces like the (bangle) Baignoire and Serpenti watches. These timepieces blend the functionality of a watch with the elegance of fine jewelry, reflecting a more integrated approach to personal adornment.” 

With plenty to reflect on, Thani shares as a final note to budding collectors that at the end of the day, the most important pieces to invest in are the ones that resonate with your personal style and can hold sentimental value. “Focus on quality over quantity, investing in timeless designs that can be versatile and worn on various occasions,” she expresses. “Educate yourself about different materials and craftsmanship to make informed choices. Most importantly, choose pieces that tell your story and reflect your individuality.” 

As a sentiment that continues to resonate through Archana’s words, jewelry and watches alike represent more than style, more than ornamentation. Jewelry and timepieces are two sides of the same coin, serving as emblems of identity and sense of self, whether that comes from culture, tradition, or beyond.