The Tale of Tonda: Our Top Picks From Parmigiani Fleurier

Many stories, guides, and treatises have been written about the dress watch (even we could hardly deny ourselves such pleasure), but is a dress watch the same thing as a sartorial watch? The latter is the subset of the former. Supposedly, one could think of it as squares and rectangles – every square is a rectangle, but not every rectangle is a square. So what defines a sartorial watch? Few know better than Parmigiani Fleurier – a young Swiss manufacture that won the hearts of watch enthusiasts with its coveted Tonda PF collection. The line embodies “a mature, sartorial approach to watchmaking, where cloth is replaced by metal and weaving by dial pattern. The cutting and fitting of the shoulders and waistline take on the form of the case and bracelet.” Akin to Neopolitan or Sicilian workshops, the craftsmen and designers at Parmigiani Fleurier pay special attention to the silhouette, fluidity, and proportions of every Tonda watch they bring to life. So that, eventually, like the perfect tailored jacket, the watch transcends trends and remains forever authentic and relevant.

 

Much like many great watch collections of our time, the Tonda PF line includes a variety of models. Here are some of our favorites: 

Tonda PF Chronograph

The 42 mm Tonda PF Chronograph serves as a prime example of how a design can effortlessly adapt to the capricious demands of a complication. The integrated, high-frequency Caliber PF070, operating at a staggering 5 Hz, boasts small seconds and two additional registers. By incorporating three counters onto the delicious guilloché dial of the Tonda PF Chronograph, Parmigiani Fleurier demonstrates its mastery of precision and skill; like an elegant weave of mohair and silk, it captures with both its deep Milano Blue color and its texture. With finesse and attention to detail, this line seamlessly blends the sandblasted minute track and counter outlines with the elegant blue dial. Even the pushers have been cleverly integrated into the lugs of this model. To top it off, the Tonda PF Chronograph features a stunning 22k rose gold oscillating weight, adorned with an openworked central PF logo medallion.

Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante

Debuting in 2022, the Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante revolutionized the dual time complication with an inventive mechanism that remained faithful to the sleek style of the Tonda PF collection. Designed for jet-setters who must navigate multiple time zones, this coveted watch now comes in a 18k rose gold rendition, adorned with a signature Milano Blue dial embellished with a barleycorn guilloché pattern. Its refined hand-guilloché dial serves as the ballroom for the graceful dance of the hour and minute hands. Yet beneath this classic façade lies a sophisticated complication that powers two superimposed hour hands – one in rhodium-plated gold for local time and the other in 18k rose gold for home time. By pressing the pusher at 8 o'clock, the rhodium-plated hand can be adjusted in one-hour increments for local time, while the gold hand displays home time. When the dual time function is no longer needed, the gold pusher integrated into the crown allows the local hour hand to "catch up" (rattraper) with the split-seconds hand of a chronograph and disappear under the gold home time hand. This ingenious operation is a first in watchmaking history and relies on a complex and innovative mechanism. Despite its advanced technology, this complication remains intuitive and easy to use, allowing traditionalists to enjoy a clutter-free display while reveling in every meticulous detail of this sartorial machine.

Tonda PF Micro Rotor No Date

“In the creation of the new Tonda PF Micro-Rotor No Date, we endeavored to offer to ‘the purist of the purists’ an object that embodies absolute clarity,” says CEO of Parmigiani Fleurier Guido Terreni, “every element of this timepiece reflects our vision of discreet and timeless refinement. From the deliberate absence of visual complications to the meticulous selection of ‘Golden Sienna’ dial nuances, each choice is guided by an unwavering commitment to aesthetic purity.” 

 

The Tonda PF Micro-Rotor Collection epitomizes Parmigiani Fleurier's subdued identity. A nominee at this year's GPHG Awards, this version of Tonda is a true representation of the brand's chromatic style, combining exquisite finishing with exceptional watchmaking. To satisfy the discerning taste of watch connoisseurs who crave an ultra-clean dial design, the Swiss manufacture intentionally omitted a date window on the "Golden Sienna" dial. Every detail is planned, considering the delicate balance between form and function. 

In its pursuit of uniqueness, the maison formulated a hue with shimmering patterns inspired by the opulent "sienna" color scheme, thus honoring the subtle variations and organic qualities of the earth. This gave rise to the Golden Sienna. The iconic Grain d'Orge motif on the watch faces is a hallmark of Haute Horlogerie. Despite its minute size, requiring close inspection to fully appreciate its intricate texture, the guilloché pattern on the dial plate provides ample space for the elegant watch hands. 

 

The erudite design hides the highest standard of watchmaking within. The ultra-thin 3.07mm PF703 caliber, with its automatic micro-rotor winding, is decorated according to the generations-long artisanal traditions. This micro-rotor mechanism, a hallmark of top-tier watchmakers, is cast in platinum for optimal weight and functionality, seamlessly integrated into the movement's slim profile, unlike traditional half-moon-shaped rotors that would add bulk. Thanks to this advanced engineering, the Tonda PF Micro-Rotor Golden Sienna is a sleek 7.8mm and wears comfortably and ergonomically on the wrist.

Tonda PF Automatic 36MM

The Tonda PF Automatic 36mm is a perfect example of elegant timekeeping. Its body is made from 18k rose gold and adorned with diamonds, embodying the essence of Parmigiani Fleurier's signature finesse. The dazzling array of precious stones adorning the crown and bracelet set this veritable jewel apart from its predecessors. The diamonds on the sides of the bracelet are arranged in varying sizes, fitting snugly into their gold casings. The bezel is also encrusted with brilliant-cut diamonds, while the logo-adorned buckle remains hidden, making the watch even more intimate and sensual. Despite its luxurious aesthetics, this ladies' watch does not compromise on technical prowess, with its double-barrel automatic movement, hand-guilloched dial, and impeccably finished bracelet. 

Tonda PF Skeleton Platinum

Parmigiani Fleurier's Tonda PF Skeleton Collection brings the traditional craft of skeletonization into the 21st century with flourish. The inner workings of the Tonda PF Skeleton Platinum watch are proudly displayed, evoking the sleek lines and light play of modern architecture. Every part is designed to create a harmony between fullness and emptiness, resulting in a mesmerizing visual performance. 

 

The maison’s craftsmen juggle solid and open spaces with grace and vigor, allowing light to penetrate the inner workings of the PF 777 caliber. The hand-beveled latticework beckons the eye towards the beating heart of the mechanism, and its platinum oscillating weight proudly bears the brand's logo, etched onto a sapphire crystal. All of this can be admired through the transparent sapphire crystal caseback, which was designed to blend in with the refined structure made up of 187 components. The movements of the wearer activate the barrel, also openworked, showcasing the rhythmic expansion and contraction of the mainspring that drives the oscillator at a frequency of 28,800.

These are but a few examples of masterpieces that constitute the Tonda PF collection. The range, which might be considered a “sleeper” by many collectors – is a window into a sophisticated world of sartorial watchmaking.