Confident in their own formula, Hautlence, once again, produces one of the most original timepieces on the market. Let's dive deep and see what it's all about
The Art of Time-Telling
With the watchmaking industry as old as it is, it surprises me that there are so few ways of telling the time on a conventional timepiece. Granted, the typical method has its roots in how sundials told the time and is pretty intuitive, but why do so few brands bring their own creative aesthetic to the art? Sure, some brands might be unwilling to risk playing with something so deeply entrenched within an industry and society as a whole, but that creates restrictions, does it not?
The art of watchmaking is a creative liberty at its very core, destined to evolve. Typical brands focus on the mechanics within a timepiece and how it looks, the aesthetics. While this is a perfectly valid approach, very few brands concentrate on the artistry within the task they are trying to achieve: telling the time. Hautlence, on the other hand, looks at these three aspects and takes them on as a trifecta of challenges to be overcome. As demonstrated by the HL Sphere 01 we have here, the result is a wonderfully poetic execution of time-telling, merging engineering brilliance, a consistent aesthetic DNA, and a unique display that I love. It might not be to everyone's taste, I get that, but you can't help but to enjoy looking at this beautiful timepiece.
Hautlence History
Founded in 2004 by Renaud de Retz and Guillaume Tetu in Neuchatel, Hautlence was born from the founding duo's desire to bring a fresh interpretation of watchmaking to the industry. Having worked for brands like Longines, TAG Heuer and Jaeger-LeCoultre previously, the duo had gained extensive knowledge of the industry and sought to use it as the catapult to fire their new brand.
Following various movement innovations and leadership changes, Hautlence did stray slightly and began to wane from their original mission. Seeing the potential in their approach to watchmaking and how daring they had been, the MELB Holding Group purchased the brand in 2012 and has since revitalised its sense of direction, personality and taken their watches to the next level. It's no surprise considering the fantastic job MELB has done of turning their other watchmakers, H. Moser & Cie, into one of the most exciting independent brands on Earth. Personally, I feel Hautlence is right up there with them, and rightfully so.
The HL SPHERE 01
Released at Baselworld 2019 and limited to 28 pieces, the HL SPHERE 01 carries Hautlence's playful and innovative sense of self through the entirety of its construction and design in what can only be described as the epitome of Hautlence. A uniquely distinctive watch in just about every way possible, allow me to carry you through its design and unravel this special timepiece.
One of the first things you'll notice on the HL SPHERE 01 is that it features a spherical jumping hour and retrograde minute display design. A world first, this wristwatch displays the time with the artistic creativity that it deserves. While a retrograde display is by no means new, its pairing with the spherical jumping hour by its side creates a display that is surprisingly legible and intuitive.
So, how does it tell the time?
Displaying hours on a sphere that spins in three axes that appears to float in the HL SPHERE 01's dial, this timepiece is mesmerising. With a typical jumping hours display being a bit boring, the HL SPHERE 01's sphere moves in what appears to be a random pattern that elevates this watch beyond the usual.
Choreographed and controlled by four conical-shaped gears that move around two crossed spindles inclined at 21 degrees, there is a rhyme to the HL SPHERE 01's reason. Constructed of two half-spheres, each displaying six positions, the sphere is assembled to create a ball with the 12 positions necessary to tell the time. Itself made of low inertia polished and blued titanium and decorated with laser-engraved digits filled with white lacquer; this hours display has been meticulously designed to do an incredible job, and look stunning while doing so.
Found to the right of the hours display is the retrograde minute display. Rotated 180 degrees, the minute display frames the right-hand side of the watch and provides a somewhat traditional viewing experience, although retrograde displays are rare in their own right too. In classic Hautlence fashion, this portion of the watch has been designed with excellence in mind.
Using a snail cam that completes one rotation an hour, energy is stored until the minutes display needs to go back to 0. As this happens suddenly, retrograde displays are known to be susceptible to self-inflicted damage. To prevent this, Hautlence created a gear train that slows down the minute hand as it moves back to zero, reducing the impact forces on the system and the minutes hand's bounce.
The Design
In the same vein that some brands have their own signature case designs — octagonal or rectangular, or what have you — Hautlence has the 'TV-Screen Case'. Named as such for its 16:9 aspect ratio matching that of a TV-Screen, the HL SPHERE 01's case measures in at 39mm x 46mm and comes in stunning 18kt white gold with a myriad of brushed and polished surfaces and tight tolerances galore – as you would expect from a brand of this pedigree, may I add.
Beyond its case, the HL SPHERE 01's design is closely linked to its smoked sapphire dial and skeletonised HTL 501-1 movement. In particular, the right-hand side of the case reveals a significant portion of the gear train driving the retrograde minutes function, leaving the jumping hours sphere to float in the watch. Combining to create an excellent view of the goings-on within the HL SPHERE 01, the dial is admittedly practical in that it shows the incredible movement off, rather than try to steal the show.
The Movement
Hautlence's 8th in-house manufacture movement, the HTL 501-1 is a manual-wind movement that comes with an impressive 38 jewels and a 3-day power reserve. Featuring a skeletonised mainspring barrel that is on show via the sapphire caseback, the wearer can determine how wound the watch is and thus, in a sense, use it as a power reserve indicator. Decorated with a sand-blasted and vertical satin finish, the HTL 501-1's greatest triumph is its technical ingenuity rather than Haute Horlogerie-level finishing.
Final Thoughts
I often feel that many brands hide behind old complications, overly obsessive finishing and tired aesthetics in lieu of fresh ideas, but the Hautlence HL SPHERE 01 does not. With a profoundly unique display, movement and construction, Hautlence have created a timepiece that will intrigue even the most complication-obsessed watch enthusiast out there. With its fresh take on the very notion of time-telling, Hautlence has a formula that I believe is genuinely special.
Executed perfectly, in my opinion, I think the HL SPHERE 01's overall aesthetic speaks for itself. It doesn't need a crazy dial, array of complications or micron-perfect finishing to be the watch that it is. It's full of personality and puts a smile on your face. And isn't that what it's all about?
Specifications
Hautlence HL SPHERE 01
Ref no: H1501-0200
Movement: HTL 501-1 hand-wound mechanical
Case material: White gold
Dial: Skeletonised and rhodium-plated with engraved minute track
Strap material: Alligator
Power reserve: Minimum of 3 days
Limited edition: 28 pieces
This piece is available on Wristcheck.
