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<p>All articles featuring Hautlence watches</p>

Hautlence

Samuel Hoffmann On Leading A Resounding Comeback For Hautlence 2.0

<p>Limited to 28 pieces, the Linear Series 1 marks a new milestone for Hautlence. We caught up with MELB Asia’s CEO, Bertrand Meylan, to know more about the brand’s resounding comeback and its corporate synergy with H. Moser & Cie.</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>

<p>Moser’s young and wild sibling, Hautlence is all set for a resounding comeback this year. Run by the Meylan’s family holding company, MELB, the two brands have always had very distinct personalities—while Moser is all about understated haute horology with contemporary vibes, Hautlence challenges the traditional norms in watchmaking with mind-boggling time displays and whacky case designs.&nbsp;</p>

<p>During the pandemic, as MELB focused all its energies on strengthening Moser (the brand registered a double digit growth in 2020, thanks to key launches like the Streamliner and Vantablack editions), Hautlence took a creative break to refresh its product strategy and brand direction. “In 2020, we decided to have everything under the same roof for both Hautlence and Moser. I think it was a great decision. We also put together a dedicated team, headed by Samuel Hoffmann, to define Hautlence’s new product strategy, marketing and merchandising. We worked on modernizing the look of our watches with new case designs and also new complications. I’m extremely delighted to announce the result of this synergy – the Linear Series 1,” says Bertrand Meylan, CEO of MELB Asia.</p>

<p>&nbsp;</p>
<img alt="Bertrand Meylan" data-caption="CEO of MELB Asia, Bertrand Meylan&amp;nbsp;" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="f4ba58e2-e919-46ca-b1f4-d98778a0d959" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/160/Edit%2520Linear%2520%25281%2529.png" width="1568" />
<p>&nbsp;</p>

<h3>Hautlence 2.0 and the Linear Series 1</h3>

<p>Presented on the brand’s trademark ‘TV screen shape”, the new Linear Series exemplifies Hautlence’s most defining characteristics in an ultra modern timepiece upgraded with better water-resistance and durability. “Our first watch, launched in 2004, featured a jump hour with retrograde minutes, mechanically driven in a novel way. The Linear Series 1 has been designed on the same lines. We want more and more people to recognize Hautlence for not just the complications but also the design language,” explained Meylan. “It was extremely difficult to improve the water-resistance on a rectangular case, but we have achieved that with the Linear (water-resistant up to 10 ATM). The idea is to make the watch more versatile; something that can be worn to the beach in the morning and to a restaurant in the evening. The watch features a dynamic case with a fluted bezel, relief form on the sides and integrated rubber strap,” he says.</p>

<p>&nbsp;</p>
<img alt="linear" data-caption="Presented on the brand’s trademark ‘TV screen shape”, the new Linear Series 1 is upgraded with better water-resistance and durability Photo: Perkin Yu/ Wristcheck" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="76717cea-fb83-453f-a060-806824c15b3d" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/160/WCL_4186.jpg" width="1568" />
<p>&nbsp;</p>

<p>On the movement front, the Linear Series 1 has been equipped with Caliber D50 made in collaboration with Agenhor. The self-winding movement oscillates at a frequency of 3 hertz and promises a power-reserve of 72 hours.</p>

<p>&nbsp;</p>
<img alt="Hautlence Linear " data-caption="Equipped with Caliber D50, made in collaboration with Agenhor, the self-winding movement oscillates at a frequency of 3 hertz and promises a power-reserve of 72 hours&amp;nbsp;Photo: Perkin Yu/ Wristcheck" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="a4ce5363-104a-4b7f-b453-2559c6c87b4f" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/160/WCL_4192.jpg" width="1568" />
<p>&nbsp;</p>

<p>Over the years, Hautlence has established its reputation as one of the most daring watchmakers, who consistently play with high-tech materials and outrageous time displays. Right from the <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BeAMDLahpea/">Vortex Gamma Tron</a>, which used the patented HL LightColour or the <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/Cd69Uw-ht02/">HL2.3 Punk</a> that used three sapphire crystals cut from solid blocks for its case construction, Hautlence has never shied away from experimentation. Thanks to the complex time displays, the dials of most Hautlence watches are three-dimensional and extremely powerful. For the Linear Series 1, the brand has worked with a multi-layer dial where the minute numerals sit on top of the base dial in rhodium-plated brass with a vertical satin finish. The dial has been given a small window to expose the minute cam, which helps the minute hand rotate once every hour and lifts the minute sector as the hour elapses.&nbsp;</p>
<img alt="Priced at HKD 514,000 and limited to 28 Pieces, this piece has a power reserve of 72 hours and is water resistant up to 10 ATM Photo: Perkin Yu/ Wristcheck" data-caption="Priced at HKD 514,000 and limited to 28 Pieces, this timepiece promises a power reserve of&amp;nbsp;72 hours and is water-resistant up to 10 ATM&amp;nbsp;Photo: Perkin Yu/ Wristcheck" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="dd6fcfe1-7469-4db1-a6c9-b9006f45f08a" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/160/WCL_4195_4.jpg" width="1568" />
<p>&nbsp;</p>

<p>The hours are displayed on a graduating scale on the left side of the dial. As seen in the brand’s very first caliber HL, the Linear Series also uses a slim linkage for the hour display. A small white arrow at the end of the linkage points the hour on the scale and once it crosses 12, the snail disengages the probe to release the energy. The linkage then jumps and returns to 1. Besides the retrograde jumping hour, the Linear Series 1 is equipped with a flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock. “We are working on very complex movements, which will take at least two years to develop, meanwhile, we will be focusing on the ‘TV screen’ cases that have always been a strong DNA of the brand. It’s important to surprise our clients with new ways of reading time, so we will continue to work with retrograde and three dimensional jumping hours, best exemplified by the <a href="https://wristcheck.com/discover/editor's-pick/the-hautlence-hl-sphere-01">HL Sphere 01</a>,” says Meylan.&nbsp;</p>

<p>&nbsp;</p>
<img alt="Hautlence Linear " data-caption="The base dial has a skeletonized rhodium-plated brass with vertical satin finish and an engraved minute track, while the intermediate dial features sapphire with a printed minute track in blue and white Photo: Perkin Yu/ Wristcheck" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="f92eecb5-4cdd-4d69-acde-cafe5f15b8a7" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/160/WCL_4177_0.jpg" width="1568" />
<p>&nbsp;</p>

<h3>A New Synergy</h3>

<p>Limited to 28 pieces, the Linear Series 1 marks a new milestone for Hautlence, which is nearly two-decades-old. The brand plans to limit its production to around 150 pieces a year and widen its appeal with in-house movements made in collaboration with Moser. “We have a dedicated creative team for Hautlence but for the rest of the resources we will be working closely with Moser – be it after-sales service, quality control or proprietary movements. We will limit the production to 150 for the next three to four years and have exclusive distribution in key markets like South Asia and the USA,” says Meylan.</p>

<p>&nbsp;</p>

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<p>&nbsp;</p>

<p>There will also be a slight increase in prices for Hautlence watches, which were earlier available in the range of CHF 15,000 and CHF 150,000. “We really want to offer our best within our limited production. So, the watches will be a little bit higher — starting at around CHF 30,000 and going up to 100,000. That's the main bracket, but then we'll always have some very unique complications like the HL2, so those will be priced around CHF 200,000 to 230,000,” says Meylan. “In the past, we were working in a different direction, which was more focused on high complications, but now we are going to work as much on our design language. It’s going to be novel and exciting,” he says.</p>

<p>&nbsp;</p>

<h3>Specifications&nbsp;&nbsp;</h3>

<p><strong>Hautlence Linear Series 1</strong></p>

<p><strong>Reference Number:</strong> &nbsp;AD50-ST00&nbsp;<br />
<strong>Movement:</strong> D50 self-winding mechanical movement; Linear retrograde jumping hour and 1 minute flying tourbillon; 239 components; 21,600 vibrations / hour<br />
<strong>Power Reserve:</strong> 72 hours<br />
<strong>Dial:</strong> Base dial— skeletonized rhodium-plated brass with vertical satin finish; Engraved minute track; Intermediate dial: sapphire with printed minute track in blue and white<br />
<strong>Case:</strong> 43.0 ×50.8 ×11.9 mm / 10.9mm excluding sapphire crystal; extra-hard beveled sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment; satin-finished and polished steel case and bezel; sapphire crystal caseback<br />
<strong>Water Resistance:</strong> Up to 10 ATM&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;<br />
<strong>Bracelet:</strong> Blue Rubber Strap&nbsp;<br />
<strong>Limited </strong>to 28 Pieces&nbsp;<br />
<strong>Price:</strong> HKD 514,000</p>


 Hautlence Linear Series 1

<p>Confident in their own formula, Hautlence, once again, produces one of the most original timepieces on the market. Let's dive deep and see what it's all about</p>
<h3>&nbsp;</h3>

<h3>The Art of Time-Telling</h3>

<p>With the watchmaking industry as old as it is, it surprises me that there are so few ways of telling the time on a conventional timepiece. Granted, the typical method has its roots in how sundials told the time and is pretty intuitive, but why do so few brands bring their own creative aesthetic to the art? Sure, some brands might be unwilling to risk playing with something so deeply entrenched within an industry and society as a whole, but that creates restrictions, does it not?</p>

<p>&nbsp;</p>
<img alt="Wristcheck" data-caption="The Hautlence HL SPHERE 01&amp;nbsp;" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="4d99acee-42aa-42eb-9e91-d3d593c2fd6a" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/48/593A0998.jpg" width="1568" />
<p>&nbsp;</p>

<p>The art of watchmaking is a creative liberty at its very core, destined to evolve. Typical brands focus on the mechanics within a timepiece and how it looks, the aesthetics. While this is a perfectly valid approach, very few brands concentrate on the artistry within the task they are trying to achieve: telling the time. Hautlence, on the other hand, looks at these three aspects and takes them on as a trifecta of challenges to be overcome. As demonstrated by the HL Sphere 01 we have here, the result is a wonderfully poetic execution of time-telling, merging engineering brilliance, a consistent aesthetic DNA, and a unique display that I love. It might not be to everyone's taste, I get that, but you can't help but to enjoy looking at this beautiful timepiece.&nbsp;</p>

<h3>&nbsp;</h3>

<h3>Hautlence History&nbsp;</h3>

<p>Founded in 2004 by Renaud de Retz and Guillaume Tetu in Neuchatel, Hautlence was born from the founding duo's desire to bring a fresh interpretation of watchmaking to the industry. Having worked for brands like Longines, TAG Heuer and Jaeger-LeCoultre previously, the duo had gained extensive knowledge of the industry and sought to use it as the catapult to fire their new brand.</p>

<p>&nbsp;</p>
<img alt="Wristcheck" data-caption="Renaud de Retz and Guillaume Tetu, at the launch of Hautlence Watches.&amp;nbsp;&lt;em&gt;(Photo: Tissot &amp;amp; Mayenfisch)&lt;/em&gt;" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="f01101ca-89ec-40f9-972c-163558ca075c" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/48/02.jpg" width="1568" />
<p>&nbsp;</p>

<p>Following various movement innovations and leadership changes, Hautlence did stray slightly and began to wane from their original mission. Seeing the potential in their approach to watchmaking and how daring they had been, the MELB Holding Group purchased the brand in 2012 and has since revitalised its sense of direction, personality and taken their watches to the next level. It's no surprise considering the fantastic job MELB has done of turning their other watchmakers, H. Moser &amp; Cie, into one of the most exciting independent brands on Earth. Personally, I feel Hautlence is right up there with them, and rightfully so.&nbsp;</p>

<p>&nbsp;</p>

<p><img alt="Wristcheck" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="93169f56-0035-4a80-a275-de89e152e0e8" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/48/593A0904_0.jpg" width="1568" /></p>

<h3>&nbsp;</h3>

<h3>The HL SPHERE 01</h3>

<p>Released at Baselworld 2019 and limited to 28 pieces, the HL SPHERE 01 carries Hautlence's playful and innovative sense of self through the entirety of its construction and design in what can only be described as the epitome of Hautlence. A uniquely distinctive watch in just about every way possible, allow me to carry you through its design and unravel this special timepiece.</p>

<p>One of the first things you'll notice on the HL SPHERE 01 is that it features a spherical jumping hour and retrograde minute display design. A world first, this wristwatch displays the time with the artistic creativity that it deserves. While a retrograde display is by no means new, its pairing with the spherical jumping hour by its side creates a display that is surprisingly legible and intuitive.&nbsp;</p>

<p>&nbsp;</p>
<img alt="Wristcheck" data-caption="The HL SPHERE 01's spherical jumping hour and retrograde minute display." data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="beef0fc5-1cb0-4ada-a454-50531e3e31d9" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/48/593A0915.jpg" width="1568" />
<p>&nbsp;</p>

<p>So, how does it tell the time?</p>

<p>Displaying hours on a sphere that spins in three axes that appears to float in the HL SPHERE 01's dial, this timepiece is mesmerising. With a typical jumping hours display being a bit boring, the HL SPHERE 01's sphere moves in what appears to be a random pattern that elevates this watch beyond the usual.</p>

<p>&nbsp;</p>

<p><img alt="Wristcheck" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="02db43f4-fca6-4687-854d-2231a0c76759" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/48/593A1124-1.jpg" width="1568" /></p>

<p>&nbsp;</p>

<p>Choreographed and controlled by four conical-shaped gears that move around two crossed spindles inclined at 21 degrees, there is a rhyme to the HL SPHERE 01's reason. Constructed of two half-spheres, each displaying six positions, the sphere is assembled to create a ball with the 12 positions necessary to tell the time. Itself made of low inertia polished and blued titanium and decorated with laser-engraved digits filled with white lacquer; this hours display has been meticulously designed to do an incredible job, and look stunning while doing so.&nbsp;</p>

<p>&nbsp;</p>
<img alt="Wristcheck" data-caption="The HL SPHERE 01's minute display frames the right-hand side of the watch.&lt;br /&gt;
​​​​​​" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="00887267-0dd7-4371-90e3-6e0ffa40ec71" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/48/593A0916.jpg" width="1568" />
<p><img alt="Wristcheck" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="865db838-f25e-471e-8c58-aeeed1507d71" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/48/593A0917.jpg" width="1568" /></p>

<p>&nbsp;</p>

<p>Found to the right of the hours display is the retrograde minute display. Rotated 180 degrees, the minute display frames the right-hand side of the watch and provides a somewhat traditional viewing experience, although retrograde displays are rare in their own right too. In classic Hautlence fashion, this portion of the watch has been designed with excellence in mind.</p>

<p>Using a snail cam that completes one rotation an hour, energy is stored until the minutes display needs to go back to 0. As this happens suddenly, retrograde displays are known to be susceptible to self-inflicted damage. To prevent this, Hautlence created a gear train that slows down the minute hand as it moves back to zero, reducing the impact forces on the system and the minutes hand's bounce.</p>

<p>&nbsp;</p>

<p><img alt="Wristcheck" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="7ca760c8-5c6b-48f0-982b-624617fd0ac9" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/48/593A0962.jpg" width="1568" /><img alt="Wristcheck" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="d21ac0b6-f518-4b72-aba9-0ecdd0597781" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/48/593A0921.jpg" width="1568" /></p>

<h3>&nbsp;</h3>

<h3>The Design</h3>

<p>In the same vein that some brands have their own signature case designs — octagonal or rectangular, or what have you — Hautlence has the 'TV-Screen Case'. Named as such for its 16:9 aspect ratio matching that of a TV-Screen, the HL SPHERE 01's case measures in at 39mm x 46mm and comes in stunning 18kt white gold with a myriad of brushed and polished surfaces and tight tolerances galore – as you would expect from a brand of this pedigree, may I add.&nbsp;</p>

<p>Beyond its case, the HL SPHERE 01's design is closely linked to its smoked sapphire dial and skeletonised HTL 501-1 movement. In particular, the right-hand side of the case reveals a significant portion of the gear train driving the retrograde minutes function, leaving the jumping hours sphere to float in the watch. Combining to create an excellent view of the goings-on within the HL SPHERE 01, the dial is admittedly practical in that it shows the incredible movement off, rather than try to steal the show.&nbsp;</p>

<p>&nbsp;</p>
<img alt="Wristcheck" data-caption="The HL SPHERE 01's skeletonised HTL 501-1 movement." data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="7d5e4bfd-5b50-4019-ae16-79e802ea231c" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/48/593A0932.jpg" width="1568" />
<h3>&nbsp;</h3>

<h3>The Movement</h3>

<p>Hautlence's 8th in-house manufacture movement, the HTL 501-1 is a manual-wind movement that comes with an impressive 38 jewels and a 3-day power reserve. Featuring a skeletonised mainspring barrel that is on show via the sapphire caseback, the wearer can determine how wound the watch is and thus, in a sense, use it as a power reserve indicator. Decorated with a sand-blasted and vertical satin finish, the HTL 501-1's greatest triumph is its technical ingenuity rather than Haute Horlogerie-level finishing.&nbsp;</p>

<p>&nbsp;</p>
<img alt="Wristcheck" data-caption="The right-hand side of the case reveals a significant portion of the gear train driving the retrograde minutes function." data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="41ee702f-a28a-44ad-9fb2-05782f0296ac" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/48/593A0949_0.jpg" width="1568" />
<h3>&nbsp;</h3>

<h3>Final Thoughts</h3>

<p>I often feel that many brands hide behind old complications, overly obsessive finishing and tired aesthetics in lieu of fresh ideas, but the Hautlence HL SPHERE 01 does not. With a profoundly unique display, movement and construction, Hautlence have created a timepiece that will intrigue even the most complication-obsessed watch enthusiast out there. With its fresh take on the very notion of time-telling, Hautlence has a formula that I believe is genuinely special.</p>

<p>&nbsp;</p>

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<p>&nbsp;</p>

<p>Executed perfectly, in my opinion, I think the HL SPHERE 01's overall aesthetic speaks for itself. It doesn't need a crazy dial, array of complications or micron-perfect finishing to be the watch that it is. It's full of personality and puts a smile on your face. And isn't that what it's all about?</p>

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<h3>Specifications</h3>

<p><strong>Hautlence HL SPHERE 01</strong></p>

<p>Ref no:&nbsp;H1501-0200&nbsp;<br />
Movement: HTL 501-1 hand-wound mechanical&nbsp;<br />
Case material: White gold&nbsp;<br />
Dial: Skeletonised and rhodium-plated with engraved minute track&nbsp;<br />
Strap material: Alligator&nbsp;<br />
Power reserve: Minimum of 3 days&nbsp;<br />
Limited edition: 28 pieces&nbsp;</p>

<p>This piece is available on <a href="https://wristcheck.com/buy/hautlence/hl-sphere-01-w00095hmchmc00">Wristcheck</a>.</p>


The Hautlence HL SPHERE 01