Watchmaking's future reimagines the past
For years Urwerk has created wrist-born visions of the future, hours and minutes released in whirling satellites and high-tech displays. The UR-100 brings that vision back to the brand's origins: a smaller, sleeker case still powered by Urwerk's distinctive vision of watchmaking. Since its debut, there have been a few variants of the UR-100, but the most distinctive — and one of the rarest at only 22 pieces — is the UR-100V T-Rex.
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Seeing time differently
Urwerk was founded by Felix Baumgartner and Martin Frei in 1997, a time of explosive creativity in the world of independent watchmaking. The turn of the millennium saw the birth of some of the great indies; F.P. Journe and Vianney Halter for example. From the earliest days Urwerk was concerned with alternative time-telling displays; wandering hours and satellites.
In 2005 Urwerk released a watch that changed their business: the fifth evolution of Harry Winston's Opus series, which saw Urwerk's unique satellite display evolve into the combination of ingeniously rotating cubes displaying the hours and retrograde minutes that we are familiar with today.
The out of this world UR-100
Over the last decade or so, Urwerk has evolved, continually pushing the boundaries of what is possible, and using increasingly complex mechanisms to make that happen. In 2019 Urwerk decided to go back to their roots, with the UR-100 series of watches; featuring a leaner case and profile, packed with an astronomical take on Urwerk's understanding of time. The hours are displayed using orbital hour satellites (with generous luminous inlay, naturally).
At the tip of each of the three satellites sits a red-tipped marker indicating retrograde minutes. But when that marker hits '60' its journey isn't done. As the satellites continue to revolve, this indicator moves from minutes to displaying a series of astronomical indications. Across a 20 minute span of time, it marks how far earth travels on its axis at the equator (555.55 kilometres, in case you're wondering). The indicator at two shows a much larger scale; the distance the earth travels around the sun every 20 minutes; some 35,740 km.
The functional aspects of these space-time displays is – let's be honest – limited, but they serve an important philosophical function; always reminding the wearer that time isn't an abstract, arbitrary concept but is actually rooted in concrete ideas that literally impact our place in the universe.
Essential Urwerk
The mechanism that allows this level of temporal time-telling is the Calibre 12.01, built of a complex ARCAP baseplate, and automatic with a rotor governed by a low-profile 'Windfäng' flat turbine to minimise shock and wear. The satellites themselves are made from beryllium bronze in an aluminium carousel. It's a sleek and modern movement to the casual observer and one that very much holds up under the closest scrutiny. This is what Urwerk does; technical, smart watchmaking that continually reminds us that time can be more than an hour hand and a minute hand. And the UR-100 series is very much essential Urwerk.
Going Jurassic
The technical side is all well and good, but the drama and tension in this watch come not from the slowly rotating satellites, but the case. At 41mm wide by 48.7mm lug-to-lug and only 14mm thick, the UR-100V is on the smaller side for an Urwerk, something which slender-wristed fans the world over should celebrate.
What makes the Urwerk UR-100V stand out is the case, which has been given the startling ‘T-Rex’ treatment. As a brand Urwerk is famous for looking to the future, so it's something of a surprise to see them mining pre-history for inspiration. But this isn't the first time.
In 2016 the UR-105 was the first watch to receive the T-Rex treatment, and earlier this year the finish roared back into reality with this limited UR-100V.
The T-Rex concept can be described on paper pretty simply as a bronze case with an exaggerated Clous de Paris (a guilloché pattern featuring intersecting hollowed lines that form miniscule pyramidal shapes) finish. But that description falls short, both in how it looks, and the amount of work that goes into achieving it.
Bronze, aged
The case is made from bronze and blackened titanium. The bronze has undergone numerous treatments to achieve a look that is akin to the ancient, fossilised skin of an extinct monster. First, the raw block of the patina-friendly alloy is milled to give the pattern of scales on the case. From there, the case is sandblasted and burnished to give the once-bright alloy an appropriately aged appearance. Finally, the bevels and edges are polished to give the case a pleasing tactility. And make no mistake, this is an exceptionally tactile case, where the high-touch areas like the crown and edges of the case will develop bright highlights and unique wear patterns.
Urwerk's UR-100V T-Rex is a watch of contrasts, the modern, almost cerebral movement engineering design is seemingly at odds with the raw, primal energy of the bronze case. But get closer to the watch and what unites the watch is the quality of thought and execution that goes into every element of construction.
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Specifications
Urwerk UR-100V T-Rex
Reference number: UR-100V
Case size: 41mm
Thickness: 14mm
Material: Engraved patinated bronze
Crystal: Sapphire
Water-resistance: 30m
Movement: Calibre UR 12.02
Functions: Satellite hours, minutes, earth’s rotational distance in 20 minutes, earth’s orbital distance in 20 minutes
Winding: Self-winding
Frequency: 28,800 vph / 4 Hz
Power reserve: 48 hours
Strap: Black alligator
Availability: Limited to 22 pieces
Price: CHF 50,000 (HKD 388,388)
For further information, visit Urwerk online.
