What’s All The Fuss About Custom Watches?

In popular culture, what are some of the most significant indicators of luxury? Sure, brand names can be important, but luxury in the truest sense goes beyond the label. Think about the bespoke suit, the perfect fit for you. Or perhaps it's convenience — a driver, a butler – someone ready to wait on your every whim. For the world's very wealthiest it seems that a mega-yacht, tailored to your exacting specifications, is a must.

When it comes to watches, the unwritten rules of status aren't quite so clear-cut. Unique and custom watches are an important part of the culture, and have been for a long time, but it quickly becomes apparent that there's a 'right' and a 'wrong' sort of custom watch. On the one hand, having a unique piece made by Cartier or Patek Philippe is considered the holy grail of collecting and a clear sign of taste and distinction, while on the other end of the spectrum, a Rolex with an after-market gem-set bezel or a blacked-out Nautilus is considered gauche. 

The arguments against an after-market custom watch are many and varied, with defenders of brand purity citing concerns around warranty-voiding and adverse impacts on resale value, but when it comes down to it, many who deride the work of after-market modifications believe whole-heartedly in the sanctity of design as laid down by the Swiss manufactures, and along with that, an implied belief that any expression of style that deviates from those offered at commercial outlets is, in some way, inferior.

We'll get to the other side of the argument in a second, but before we do it's worth unpacking these sentiments, and where they come from. Watch brands, until recently, have taken a dim view of unauthorized customizations, arguing (sometimes in court) that it decreases their perceived value and is a small step away from a forgery. In tandem with this, the secondary market has focused more and more on original and period-correct watches. If you picked two examples of a specific Patek reference, for example, one 100% original and one with a professionally done, aesthetically pleasing refinished dial, the former will always command the higher price.

You may have noticed a common thread in the argument against customized watches, and this is value. But for many people, watches are about identity and style, not an investment. Was Karl Lagerfeld concerned with resale when he blacked out his Royal Oak? Is Drake worried about the warranty when he orders custom gem-set pieces from Greg Yuna? No, they don't, and if you're not planning on selling your watch — neither should you.

One of the most prominent (and pivotal) figures in custom watches is George Bamford, of Bamford Watch Department. Bamford started customizing watches in the mid-2000s and has ridden the rollercoaster of changing attitudes when it comes to customization. Bamford notes that lately, customization has been more accepted by brands and buyers alike. "The stigma has gone away as a lot more people are doing customization. When you go on some of the major watch brand's websites they want to give you that pseudo idea of customization, so I think the brands are already embracing it." Certainly, there has been a change of tune in regard to Bamford's own standing in the watch world. You can head to the Bamford Watch Department and spend hours building your own watch from a range of makers, including TAG Heuer, Zenith and more. Bamford attributes this broader acceptance, in part, to the power of Instagram. "One of the main changes I have seen is with social media and how it has really changed how people react to and consume watches. There's a great appeal in having something personal, something unique and made just for you." As is the case with many watches, even custom watches are all about the stories we tell about them. Bamford notes, "Cool customization is true personalization. Creating something for a special occasion like a wedding or to celebrate something like the sale of a business to mark achievements."
 

So what does 'Cool Customization' look like in the context of a watch? The most striking examples don't just make the base watch look different; they amplify the story of the watch. Great examples of this can be found in the collaborative pieces of Jonny Dowell (@Kingnerd) and Phil Toledano (@misterenthusiast). This dynamic duo of the engraver and visual artist has made several exceptionally limited edition runs based on stock Rolex models. The first is with a Submariner which has been sandblasted and stripped back and fitted with a gloriously engraved dial depicting a diver wrestling with a giant squid. The second takes as its canvas a Rolex AirKing, and leans into the aviation heritage with a vignette of a World War II-era dogfight that also manages to evoke the pop art stylings of Roy Lichtenstein. These creative collaborations are a great example of how cool custom watches can be and go a long way to reducing the negative connotations of after-market modifications. 

The co-opting of customizing by watchmakers goes a lot further than digital tools allowing potential customers to tweak their watch. Brands have also looked at the aesthetics and styles pioneered by the modders and brought the skills in-house. PVD coatings are now remarkably common, and the style of stone setting once relegated to diamond district chop shops is now amongst the most coveted pieces in a brand's collection. In addition, manufactures are increasingly being open to third-party designers and creatives putting their own spin on their precious brand DNA, and to great effect. Bulgari's work with Tadao Ando and Kazuyo Sejima is a great example of this. It takes a certain maturity for a watch brand to let go of the reigns and recognize that the skills and abilities of artists, designers and others can make their work even stronger. That's certainly the case with Bulgari, as these limited editions are coveted, and amongst some of their strongest recent releases. 

Of course, there is some merit to watch brand's concerns around customizations. A personalized watch is a matter of personal taste — something which is famously subjective. We asked George Bamford if there was such a thing as 'bad' customization, and his response was both nuanced and balanced. "Yes and no. I say no because it is a person's own taste and what they want as theirs so it can't be bad for them. I can't say 'this is a disgusting design' as it is their concept, and it suits them. I had a customer who requested a Bamford aqua blue and pink dial Monaco. I was very unsure of the design and went back and forth with the client by email as I wasn't sure it wouldn't work. He asked me to please just do what he wanted, so I did – expecting to have an 'I told you so' scenario at the end. The client came in, and one side of his business card was pink and the other side was blue and they were his business colors. The watch looked damn amazing on his wrist, so it shows you can't judge."

In the end, it all comes down to the wearer. If you're concerned about value and originality, keeping everything factory is probably the way to go. However, if you want something that sets you out from the pack and has a little more personality, maybe give customization a try.