The Case for Two-Tone Watches: Collectors and Experts Weigh In

Tea or coffee? Black or white? Day or night? It seems like our daily lives are filled with dichotomies that insist on one or the other. But maybe we shouldn’t have to choose between two options? Maybe we can embrace the best of two worlds and indulge in the duality of equally favorable preferences? Such is the case (pun intended) for two-tone watches.

This particular variety of watches has, over the years, been relegated to the status of black sheep amongst timepiece compositions – a status denomination that is quite unwarranted, in my opinion. Two-tone watches are a little bit of both and they are also neither. They are not sleek stainless steel watches, and they also are not opulent watches of pure precious metal. But in fact, they exist at an intersection of both. 

Tom Heap, Head of Sale & Deputy Director of Watches at Sotheby’s, chimes in on what he has observed on the two-tone variety: “I think two-tone or ‘bi-metal’ watches can be a divisive topic among collectors as this aesthetic has been so prominent for so long,” he admits. “Over the past decade, however, the bi-metal look – like marmite – is dividing opinion and taste between those still nostalgic for the more ostentatious message it carries with it, and those who prefer a more understated style on their wrist.” 

As its name quite literally suggests, two-tone watches are designed as a combination of two different types of metals. Most often, this subsect of watches combines either stainless steel or white gold, with some variety of colored gold (either yellow, rose, pink, or otherwise). The result is a watch that is a harmony of both, which in itself creates something new altogether. Although watch aficionados have been preaching the rise and fall of two-tone watches for years, we are perhaps witnessing an unexpected renaissance – a revitalized form of the jewelry watch that is not a harbinger of showy, jewel-encrusted watches, but rather a companion to the existing collections of jewelry lovers.

Such is the case for watch enthusiast and content creator, Charity Mhende, who you might know online as @pulseonthewrist. With an ever so observant finger on the pulse (I see what she did there) of popular culture, Charity is known for her keen eye and commentary on cultural shifts and trend drivers, fully understanding not only the “economic clout” of key watch tastemakers such as Rihanna, as she told Watches and Culture, but also just how diverse the evolution of watch collecting has become. 

Australia-based art director, Jade Chung, is also a kindred spirit in that she too holds the two-tone category with special regard. “Honestly, it’s as simple as wanting the flexibility to match it with either silver or gold jewelry. Not that there are any rules about having a stainless steel watch and gold jewelry, but it just looks more cohesive and pleasing,” she shares with Wristcheck. “And if I ever decide to go back to wearing silver, it’ll still work.” 

Jade admittedly jokes that her 36mm two-tone Rolex Datejust is reminiscent of a watch that belongs to a “90s finance bro” when it stands on its own, but she speaks fondly of the watch’s versatility and how it can attune to her ever-changing style. “I always go through phases, to be honest. Sometimes I love gold and sometimes I’m into silver,” she reflects. “If you have a two-tone [watch], you can wear whatever metal at the same time and it’ll still look good.”

Heap shares corresponding thoughts on the prominence of decades when it comes to two-tones, as he expresses, “I think now the market is solidly looking to neo vintage from the 1980s and 1990s. Bi-metal watches played a big role in this period, alongside more unusual complicated pieces from Vacheron Constantin, Audemars Piguet and Breguet, these are being noticed by a younger, broader and more explorative collecting community which is maturing.” 

When it comes to styling, two-tone watches possess a trove of personality that radiates with unabashed charm. Yes, the watch can be a bit flashy, but it knows this. It owns up to it, and it relishes it. Two-tone watches make a statement without it being ostentatious or superfluous. It is an understated gleam that is still appropriate for daily looks – an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 36 Yellow Gold & Stainless Steel White Dial paired with T-shirt and jeans, or a Cartier Santos-Dumont Rose Gold & Stainless Steel Rose Dial with a casual linen short-sleeve and black trousers. A two-tone watch satisfies that subtle tug towards the dramatique without being overly garish.

On where he thinks the trend will continue for the growing demographic of millennial watch collectors, he shares his insight: “This group has less of an emotional connection with sports and military watches of the 50s, 60s and early 70s which have dominated collecting spheres for the past 15 years and more of a connection to a design orientation, which is more in step with what was in magazines, on TV and on the wrists of models and actors this millennial generation of collectors grew up with.”

Ambrose Leung, Editor-In-Chief of Lifestyle Asia Hong Kong, makes a similar observation. “Something about TT watches oozes the '70s and '80s to me,” he muses. “That being said, that's exactly why I wouldn't start collecting just TT watches as it's not going to be for everyone and for every occasion. It is one of those watches you add when you have a few watches in your collection and want a little more ‘character.’”  

It’s true that two-tone watches sometimes get a bad rap, cast aside from the more mass taste of single-metal watches that are deemed as more “cohesive” or “clean,” but it is precisely the fluidity and adaptable wearability of the two-tone genre that is what makes it the most attractive for its admirers. As Leung puts it: “I tend to go for TT watches that were created around the Yuppie era,” he tells Wristcheck. “Put it this way, you have a pretty reliable BMW 3-series, a few exotic flashy cars, and BAM! you add a 1987 Jeep Grand Wagoneer to the mix.”

When it comes to styling, two-tone watches possess a trove of personality that radiates with unabashed charm. Yes, the watch can be a bit flashy, but it knows this. It owns up to it, and it relishes it. Two-tone watches make a statement without it being ostentatious or superfluous. It is an understated gleam that is still appropriate for daily looks – an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 36 Yellow Gold & Stainless Steel White Dial paired with T-shirt and jeans, or a Cartier Santos-Dumont Rose Gold & Stainless Steel Rose Dial with a casual linen short-sleeve and black trousers. A two-tone watch satisfies that subtle tug towards the dramatique without being overly garish.

As a final reflection, two-tone watches are a bit of an acquired taste. But once you embrace its unconventional allure and take time to understand its many facets, the two-tone genre opens up a whole new landscape within the watch space. As Ambrose quite aptly puts it, “Two-tone doesn't work for all makes and models. There are only certain watches where the gold and stainless-steel combination looks right when worn,” he notes. “For me, stainless steel is the everyday default, sporty material for a watch, and a full gold watch is more for special occasions or when you want to make a statement, but just because TT has both materials, doesn't mean it sits in between.” 

It is perhaps understanding the strengths and weaknesses of the two-tone watch that is the true secret of unlocking its potential. It is a beautiful addition to have in your rotation, to grow fond of its versatility and many personalities. However, it is also helpful to understand what exactly you are looking for in a watch. As a timepiece that is ideal for pairing with jewelry and for achieving a dazzling yet elevated look, the two-tone watch is dichotomy personified. Two-tone watches are both and neither. They are constant and they are variable. Timeless and timely. It is perhaps this very characteristic that draws its admirers to them and why two-tone devotees are part of a very special club. Either you know, or you don’t know.