All Winners at GPHG 2024

The 2024 Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG)—the most prestigious awards ceremony in the watch industry (also known as the watchmakers’ Oscars)—just concluded in Geneva. It showcases the pinnacle of craftsmanship and innovation. 

 

Out of the 15 prestigious categories, there were distinctions for men's complicated watches, women's complications, high-end jewelry pieces, an Iconic subsection, and a recently added category: Time Only. Each category had its subcategories as well. For example, apart from the winners in men's and women's complications, there were awards for tourbillons, calendars and astronomy, chronographs, sports timepieces, and more. Ultimately, the most coveted prize of the event was the Aiguille d'Or - the "best of show" - which was not included in any specific category.
 

Let us delve into the deserving winners of each category and the grand prize winner (Aiguille d'Or Grand Prize). By the end of the event, a total of 21 awards were handed out. Some notable standouts were Van Cleef & Arpels with three separate wins and Chopard rightfully claiming the new Eco-Innovation prize.

“Aiguille d’Or” Grand Prix – IWC Schaffhausen Portugieser Eternal Calendar

The recipient of GPHG's most prestigious accolade, Aiguille d’Or Grand Prix, is the Portugieser Eternal Calendar by IWC Schaffhausen. This watch debuts the secular perpetual calendar, which embodies a synchronized design that allows for all displays to be adjusted with a single crown. Unlike traditional perpetual calendars which require adjustments in centurial years, this mechanical marvel is programmed to account for these exceptions thanks to a newly developed 400-year gear. This gear completes only one rotation every four centuries, allowing the watch to skip three leap years over the course of400 years – a feat that will first occur in the year 2100. 

Ladies’ Watch Prize – Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Jour Nuit

The indisputable trailblazer in feminine’ watches, Van Cleef & Arpels took the Ladies’s Watch Prize at GPHG with its Lady Jour Nuit. The maison has introduced the new 33mm Lady Arpels Jour Nuit watch that took three years to perfect. The diamond-studded moon and stars continuously chase after the sun, their brilliance enhanced by the guilloché detailing on the yellow gold dial. With a 24-hour rotating disc, it moves in an almost imperceptible manner. The use of Murano aventurine glass creates a mesmerizing depth effect. An impressive feat of technical ingenuity, the aventurine glass features delicate openwork to hold each white-gold star in place. The painted blue mother-of-pearl background represents the horizon that frames this cosmic poetry, enhanced by its own guilloché design. A sapphire crystal covers the back of the watch and reveals an oscillating weight adorned with a sky full of shining stars.

Ladies’ Complication Watch Prize – Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Brise D’Été

Another win for Van Cleef & Arpels at GPHG 2024 was the Lady Arpels Brise D’Été, which bagged the Ladies’ Complication Watch Prize. Butterflies made of white and yellow gold, delicately made from plique-à-jour enamel, not only keep track of time but also flutter gracefully thanks to an innovative animation module. The vibrant flowers surrounding them are brought to life with vallonné enamel in shades of blue and accented with pistils made of spessartite garnet. The meticulously detailed leaves, made with champlevé enamel, are surrounded by blades of grass adorned with tsavorite garnets and plique-à-jour enamel. The stems themselves are intricately painted in a sculptural style, giving the entire piece a sense of depth and dimension.

Time Only Prize – H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Small Seconds Blue Enamel

GPHG’s Time Only Prize this year went to none other than H. Moser & Cie.’s Streamliner Small Seconds in blue enamel. Measuring 39 mm in width, the watch boasts a cushion-shaped case that remains water-resistant up to 12 ATM. Drawing inspiration from the sleek curves and circular design of trains from the 1920s and 1930s, this timepiece is aptly named after its muse. The new caliber HMC 500 allows for more elongated lines to be incorporated into the design, resulting in a more refined look. To highlight the steel materials used for the case and bracelet, H. Moser & Cie. has opted for a stunning Grand Feu enamel dial. Named "Aqua Blue", it showcases the signature fumé finish of the brand but with an artistic twist.

Men’s Watch Prize – Voutilainen KV20I Reversed

Winner of the Men’s Watch Prize at GPHG 2024, KV20I Reversed embodies Kari Voutilainen's innovative approach to watchmaking. Traditional techniques blend with a focus on precision and longevity in this machine. The caliber, crafted in-house, boasts a unique "back-to-front" design that allows for an unobstructed view of its intricate workings while telling time. Every element of the movement, from the graceful single-arm balance-wheel bridge to the synchronized escapement wheels, was thoughtfully designed and assembled within the Voutilainen workshops. By pushing boundaries and showcasing the beauty of horology, this watch is a true testament to Voutilainen's philosophy and expertise.

Men’s Complication Prize – De Bethune DB Kind Of Grande Complication

The De Bethune DB Kind Of Grande Complication took home the GPHG Men's Complication Watch Prize this year. A stunning culmination of over two decades of innovation, research, and craftsmanship within the manufacture, this watch embodies the best of technical and aesthetic elements. The sleek, rounded design of its classically inspired case with a crown at 12 o'clock (or 6 o'clock on the traditional side) belies the extraordinary complexity within – a double case housing eight complications including a perpetual calendar, spherical moon phase indication, retrograde age and leap years, blued titanium tourbillon, jumping seconds, power reserve, and dual display for hours and minutes.

Iconic Watch Prize – Piaget Polo 79

The clear winner in the Iconic Watch category in the 2024 edition of GPHG was Piaget Polo 79. This landmark watch perfectly reflects the current spirit of both society and Piaget. The signature design of alternating polished and brushed links seamlessly flows from the bracelet to the case and even onto the dial. Adorning the wrist like a second skin, the bracelet is formulated in Piaget's workshops, giving the illusion of being carved from a single piece of gold. With modern tastes in mind, the quartz movement has been replaced with the ultra-thin 1200P1 self-winding caliber, visible through a slightly enlarged 38mm caseback.

Tourbillon Watch Prize – Daniel Roth Tourbillon Souscription

After 35 years since its inception, Daniel Roth has once again emerged onto the scene, showcasing its horological talents with a luxurious tourbillon watch that unsurprisingly won the Tourbillon Watch Prize at the GPHGP 2024. In traditional yellow gold, a metal exclusively used for this edition, the case of the Tourbillon Souscription is a stunning double ellipse design. To maintain the exquisite appearance of the watch, it features only one face on the front, resulting in a slim profile of just 9.2 mm. The proportions of the original double-ellipse case remain true but with subtle enhancements. The lugs are still attached by hand to the case middle but now boast a graceful downward curve for improved ergonomics. The dial also pays tribute to the brand's rich history, adorned with a Clous de Paris guilloché pattern on solid yellow gold like the original design.

Calendar and Astronomy Watch Prize – Laurent Ferrier Classic Moon Silver

Laurent Ferrier dominated the Calendar and astronomy category at 2024 GPHG with its Classic Moon Silver. This ground-breaking watch showcases the brand’s first-ever lunar complication. The small seconds dial features a dark blue moon disc, representing the different phases of the moon. Crafted by skilled Murano artisans, aventurine glass is intricately engraved to create the moon and stars, which are then hand-painted with white accents and filled with Super-LumiNova. The watch also boasts an annual calendar complication, accurately distinguishing between months with 30 or 31 days and automatically adjusting to the 1st of each month. Only one manual adjustment is needed per year on March 1st to account for the varying length of February. To make this adjustment discreetly, a flush-fitted corrector is located on the left side of the case between 8 and 9 o'clock for easy access.

Mechanical Exception Watch Prize – Bovet 1822 Récital 28 Prowess 1

A true horological juggernaut, Bovet’s Récital 28 Prowess 1 took the Mechanical Exception Watch Prize at this year’s GPHG. This watch has accomplished something never before achieved in the history of watchmaking – it solves the Daylight Savings Time dilemma. With its innovative design, including four different period rollers and 24 city rollers printed on four sides, all controlled by a single sapphire cabochon on the crown, this timepiece seamlessly adjusts to any time zone during Daylight Saving Time. But that's not all - the Récital 28 Prowess 1 also features an enlarged flying tourbillon, a perpetual calendar with roller-based indications, and an impressive 10-day power reserve from a single barrel. In short, it is a true testament to Bovet's ingenuity and expertise in the world of luxury watches.

Chronograph Watch Prize – Chronograph Monopoussoir Sylvian Pinaud x Massena Lab

The Chronograph Watch Prize at 2024 GPHG went to Chronograph Monopoussoir Sylvian Pinaud x Massena Lab. This watch boasts a hand-wound movement with a fully integrated, column-wheel chronograph featuring a horizontal clutch. The single pusher discreetly located at the crown allows for easy start, pause, and reset functions. The meticulous craftsmanship of the watchmaker is showcased on the dial side, where the exposed movement can be admired. With sapphire windows on the sides of the titanium case and a transparent backing, one can marvel at the intricate details from any angle - giving us a glimpse into the dedication and artistry behind every Sylvain Pinaud creation.

Sports Watch Prize – Ming 37.09 Bluefin

Ming’s 37.09 Bluefin took the coveted Sports Watch Prize at this year’s GPHG. While it may bear a similar appearance to its 37-series counterparts, it has been completely reengineered and reprofiled to withstand depths up to 600m with the help of two crowns, thicker sapphire crystals, and additional gaskets. Through innovatively tweaking the curvature of both front and rear crystals, prototypes of the Bluefin were able to reach an astonishing crush depth of 900m after 24 hours of saturation. The intricate Bluefin dial underwent a painstaking 2-year development process. Its base sapphire is machined and laser engraved, while the reverse side boasts a proprietary double layer of chromium-based metallization before being filled with multiple layers of Super-LumiNova X1. Finally, turning rings are skillfully glued onto the dial for added luminosity. In a bold move, Ming decided to replace the traditional rotating bezel with a Super-LumiNova X1-filled sapphire dial that can be rotated by a sealed crown at the 4 o'clock position through a 60-click unidirectional mechanism, secured by sprung bearings.

Jewellery Watch Prize – Chopard Laguna High-Jewellery Secret Watch​

Chopard's Laguna secret watch from their coveted Red Carpet collection is a work of art, as recognized by the GPHG Jewellery Watch Prize. This stunning cuff watch showcases a lustrous pearl that reflects the vivid hues of sapphires, ranging from soft blues to pinks and purples, delicately encircling and shaping the captivating dial. Handcrafting this miniature world required over 1,000 hours of skilled craftsmanship, blending ethical gold and titanium – a true technical triumph that sculpts the structure of this dreamlike stage.

Artistic Crafts Prize – Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Jour Enchanté

Van Cleef & Arpels' watchmaking has had a phenomenal year. Their third consecutive win at the 2024 GPHG was in the Artistic Crafts category with their masterpiece, the Lady Arpels Jour Enchanté. This stunning timepiece captures a graceful figure picking flowers under the morning sun. The light delicately passes through generous leaves crafted from white gold, plique-à-jour enamel, and diamonds, revealing a radiant field of colorful blossoms. Using their innovative technique of façonné enamel, Van Cleef & Arpels has created the illusion of an endless flowerbed with each petal individually sculpted by hand. The feminine figure, fashioned from white gold, spreads her wings made from pearly-white plique-à-jour enamel, adding a touch of transparency to her enchanting form. Against a backdrop of three shades of turquoise, the sun shines brilliantly with spessartite garnets, colored sapphires, and diamonds, completing this breathtaking masterpiece.

“Petite Aiguille” Prize – Kudoke 3 Salmon

Given to young, independent players, the “Petite Aiguille” Prize at this year’s GPHG went to Kudoke for 3 Salmon. The watch expands on watchmaker Stefan Kudoke’s ambition to develop unconventional ways of showing time. It features a unique triple-armed hour hand that spans over two dials, with each arm indicating a different section of the hour. As one arm completes its journey, the next appears on a different scale, displaying hours 2, 6, and 10 twice before moving on. The top dial in a stunning salmon color complements the wavy lower dial with its balancing logo plate. This lower dial is mounted by four screws, which also serve as minute indicators at 10, 20, 40, and 50 minutes. 

Challenge Watch Prize – Otsuka Lotec No. 6

The Challenge Watch Prize at this year’s GPHG went to Japanese independent watchmaker Jiro Katayama’s brand Otsuka Lotec. The No. 6 builds upon the brand’s exploration of fan-shaped displays, in which the retrograde hour and minute hands are superimposed on each other and rotate on a single axis. The watch is equipped with a Japanese MIYOTA movement with an additional module designed and manufactured in-house, including the retrograde hour and minute hands, a seconds disk in the center, and a date display on the right.  In the assembly of No.6, the retrograde hour and minute hands are placed on the same axis, therefore, the hour and minute hands should return to 0 at the same time when the hands reach 12:00. The return timing difference between the hour and minute hands is controlled to within 60 seconds, and to achieve this, the cam of the hour hand is carefully adjusted with screws. 

Eco-Innovation Prize – Chopard L.U.C. Qualité Fleurier

This year, the GPHG Academy recognized Chopard’s triumphs in sustainable watchmaking with its Eco-Innovation prize. The L.U.C. Qualité Fleurier is not only certified by the Fleurier Quality Foundation but also incorporates Lucent Steel™ – a unique alloy developed by Chopard with a recycling rate of at least 80%. Despite its 39-millimeter diameter and 8.92-millimeter thickness, this watch features resized crowns and lugs, as well as an exquisite silver-tone monochrome sector dial that is both elegant and functional. Powered by the precision of the L.U.C 96.09-L movement, equipped with Chopard Twin technology, this watch showcases the finest expertise and innovation from within the Chopard Manufacture. And as if its accuracy wasn't enough, the Fleurier Quality Foundation label of excellence guarantees the reliability, durability, and aesthetic perfection of every aspect of this exceptional timepiece.

Audacity Prize – Berneron Mirage Sienna

Only the most daring and unconventional timepieces receive the prestigious Audacity Prize at GPHG. In 2024, this coveted award was presented to independent watchmaker Berneron for its masterpiece, the Mirage Sienna. Breaking away from traditional norms, the Mirage is the first asymmetrical watch to derive its shape from its exceptional movement rather than external designs. The mechanics within (including a large barrel, direct small second, and pocket watch style balance wheel) are given the freedom to shine in their unique form, resulting in a perfect combination of refined artistry and superior functionality. Its lack of symmetry adds a touch of deliberate imperfection to create a stunningly harmonious timepiece. Crafted entirely in gold with meticulous attention to detail, it exudes an aura of uncompromising elegance and subtle luxury.

“Horological Revelation” Prize – Rémy Cools Tourbillon Atelier

The “Horological Revelation” Prize at this year’s GPHG went to watchmaker extraordinaire Rémy Cools and his latest masterpiece, Tourbillon Atelier.  While maintaining his signature classic aesthetic, the Tourbillon Atelier boasts a completely original movement, case, dial, hands, and crystal – all made from scratch for Cools' first production series. The dimensions of the watch were carefully considered, resulting in a compact 39mm platinum case that measures just 12mm in height including the raised and domed 3mm sapphire crystal. This unique design allows for an unobstructed view of the elegant tourbillon and off-centered hour and minute display. The tourbillon itself is held by a meticulously hand-beveled and polished single bridge. Within its 13.2mm diameter carriage with three shining spokes lies a Breguet overcoil hairspring that has been delicately shaped by hand.

Chronometry Prize – Bernhard Lederer 3 Times Certified Observatory Chronometer

The GPHG award given for precision in timekeeping, the Chronometry Prize, was awarded to Bernhard Lederer’s 3 Times Certified Observatory Chronometer this year. To demonstrate the exceptional quality and long-term reliability of Lederer watches, the brand has exceeded industry standards by putting their standard CIC movement through rigorous testing and certification at three more esteemed institutions: the Observatory in Besançon, France; the Observatory in Glashütte, Germany; and the "Observatory Chronométrique" in Geneva, Switzerland. One of the most notable features of the Central Impulse Chronometer is the synchronized movement of the minute hand with the remontoire d'égalité every 10 seconds. The hand moves along a unique scale with 6 steps representing 10 seconds each, culminating in a full minute. A small pointer on the minute hand assists in reading these intervals with perfect precision.