7 Best Dress Watches on Wristcheck

Wristwatches as we know them, in many ways, are closely connected to the evolution of menswear. Until the 20th century, pocket watches had been the staple accessories among noble gentlemen. After the Regency period in Great Britain (1811 – 1820), sartorial codes underwent a dramatic shift – draping frock coats and walking sticks became obsolete, making way for simpler, less restrictive silhouettes. But it wasn’t until World War I that the gentlemen began dressing more like the heartthrobs that we picture when we hear the term Old Hollywood (think Marlon Brando and Cary Grant). Two-piece suits became a thing, along with trench coats and cargo pants. That was also when the pocket watch became a statement piece (an archaic one at that) rather than a universal gentleman’s accessory, making way for the wristwatch to take the stage. Think about it, when these soldiers were at the frontlines, they couldn't afford the luxury of taking their pocket watch out of their pocket every time they needed to time artillery. And that's how this invention, inspired, in many ways, by military needs, entered the fashion world at large.

And, because modern watchmaking is rooted in European tradition, the wristwatch became subjected to the strict style codes of aristocracies and fading monarchies. For example, a respectable gentleman couldn’t dream of wearing, say, a pilot’s watch (still a novelty at the time) to a black-tie dinner. And so, the dress watch was born, with its elegant, minimalist, often svelte accessory that complemented the lines of the suit without pulling attention away from it.

But, even the most rigid fashion canons have the habit of relaxing over time. If a century ago, wearing a watch with complications to a formal event seemed like an affront, these days, you could get away with one or two. Experts suggest it to be a date window and a seconds hand, but, even this convention can be played with. So, with the proud traditions of menswear etiquette in mind, we’ve curated a collection of classic (and a few more provocative) dress watches:

Piaget Polo Quartz

The legendary Piaget Polo is not just a watch, but a symbol of a belle epoque. In this case, the era in question is the ‘80s. Its gold bullion-like profile and ribbed bracelet that looks like a cuff won over the general public’s heart when it appeared on Robert De Niro’s wrist in 1995’s Casino. What makes this watch even more unique is its construction: every link of the bracelet was carved from a single block of gold (rather than cast). Because the Polo has quite a maximalist feel, we’d suggest pairing it with a suit that would leave some space for you to breathe – something that embraces the “shape and drape” principle, coined by Twitter’s resident menswear expert Derek Guy. We suggest staying away from the tight, body-hugging silhouettes embraced by, say, Silvester Stallone in Tulsa King at the risk of looking comical. 

Girard Perregaux Laureato Steel Copper Dial

A watch that embraces the zeitgeist of the ‘70s, Girard Perregaux’s Laureato is one of those pieces that, at the time, symbolized a completely new era. Of course, this watchmaking revolution was, in many ways, spearheaded by Audemars Piguet, but the influence of manufactures like Girard Perregaux cannot be denied. The beauty of this iteration of Laureato (apart from the instantly recognizable octagonal case) is the textured dial – its pockets of brilliance create alluring color transitions from tawny brown to pink gold. The heart of this stunner is the Calibre GP0300-0030 self-winding movement with a robust 46-hour power reserve. It might seem that the Laureato Copper could be a challenge to style because of its eye-catching dial. We, however, think it will look remarkable when paired with a slouchy cream number à la Brunello Cucinelli and a white T-shirt. 

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin White Gold

Yes, Audemars Piguet Royal Oak was initially conceived as the sports watch. This notion still holds up, given just how much the maison has influenced the industry at large. It’s worth pointing out, however, that a lot of time has passed since 1972 (when the first Royal Oak model was introduced), and the octagonal blue-dialed watch has not only become universally coveted but also accepted as an accessory at events of varying levels of formality. What makes this Royal Oak, dubbed “Jumbo”, truly special is its extra-thin profile, white gold composition, and, of course, the star of the show – its grained Tuscan dial, which looks as if the starry sky itself is trapped under the sapphire crystal. And, when styling a classical watch like this, you can’t go wrong with a classic navy suit with either a white shirt or black turtleneck. 

Patek Philippe Calatrava Volutes and Arabesque

Now, many dress watches can be worn to a wide variety of formal events: weddings, networking soirées, etc., but, we believe, a marvel such as this Patek Philippe should be saved for occasions of the highest order – premiers and such things where red carpet is involved, black tie events or royal receptions. Here’s why. This dress watch is a rather outstanding piece in its own right (look at the metal arabesque swirls that adorn its dial) and it requires to be carried by a suit of a similar caliber. This is precisely to avoid the situation in which the watch is wearing you, and not the other way around. We suggest a tux. The noble platinum of its case, the depth of its jet-black dial, and the elegant curves of its profile are bound to signal not only your refined taste in watches but (if worn properly) – in life in general. And, did we mention that this model is trading at 14% below retail on wristcheck.com? 

Ballon Bleu de Cartier

A balloon floating on your wrist, Cartier’s Ballon Bleu was meant to represent lightness (which is no easy feat, since we are still talking about a timekeeping machine). Perhaps, to achieve this effect, this watch utilizes curved, asymmetrical lines, which, in many ways, harken back to the art nouveau movement. Apart from having the signature cabochon sapphire winding mechanism and guilloché dial, this iteration (which currently trades at 16% below its retail value on wristcheck.com), also features a diamond-adorned bezel. Naturally, this dress watch would be perfect to wear to your wedding, to match the “something bleu” of your bride/groom, but even styled with suits more casual or graphic, it’ll still look great. 

Daniel Roth Mid-Size Chronograph

We are anything but traditionalist at Wristcheck, so expect our selection of dress watches to reflect that. And what living watchmaker challenges tradition as fervently and impactfully as Daniel Roth? The oblong case of the Mid-Size Chronograph is, perhaps, its most eye-catching feature; therefore, it should be considered when styling it. After much pondering, the inspiration came in the face of Saint Laurent’s Spring/Summer 2024 menswear collection. We saw a dramatic new silhouette that consisted of slim cigarette pants and oversized padded blazers, and its best part was the silk tank tops with plunging necklines. And that’s exactly the part that will make an outfit like that work alongside this dress watch, for the dramatic curve of such a top is bound to play beautifully against the curves of the case. In addition, you can echo its silver dial by opting for a white top or play on the cobalt-blue hands with a tank more colorful. 

IWC Portugieser Tourbillon

Although IWC undoubtedly makes fine pilot watches, its selection of dress models is fantastic too. This Portugieser effortlessly blends traditional craftsmanship with innovation in an elegant design. Its tourbillon (probably the one complication that can be tricky to make look sleek) at six o’clock doesn’t distract from the pleasantly minimalist overall design. It’s also worth mentioning that this watch is trading 66% under the retail value on wristcheck.com. Now, wouldn’t it be fun to ask yourself, “How would a young person style this?” or “How would a young New Yorker style this?”. We’ve got two words for you. Ralph Lauren. The brand’s fall 2024 menswear collection saw a double-breasted tuxedo (with a bow tie and sensible shoes and such) paired with a gorgeous leather trench coat with a fur collar and a – wait for it –  baseball cap! We think this outfit will make a stunning visual alliance with the Portugieser thanks to the traditional-meets-youthful aesthetic of both.