5 Watch Brands You Need To Pay Attention To In 2024

For objects that are built to last for generations, watches go in and out of fashion surprisingly quickly. Oh sure, there are plenty of tried and true options that haven't changed too much in a few decades — the Datejusts and Tanks of the world. But beyond this handful of perennial winners, there's a constant tussle for that coveted space on your wrist. So, to make things a little easier, here are five brands that should be on your radar in 2024. 

Anoma

The first cab off the rank only launched a few months ago. Anoma, the brainchild of Matteo Violet Vianello, debuted the A1 in June this year, perfectly riding the wave of interest in niche asymmetrical designs. The amorphous, pebble-like triangular case of the A1 is inspired (in varying degrees) by mid-century furniture, Cartier and Gilbert Albert's pioneering designs for Patek Philippe. There are several reasons Anoma popped off — it was the right shape at the right time, for sure, but there's more to it than that. The watch, initially produced in very limited numbers, was immediately picked up by key tastemakers like John Goldberger and Alex Ghotbi from Phillips Watches. 

All this helps explain why the Anoma was a critical hit when it landed, but fundamentally, it succeeded because the A1 is a genuinely novel design that has been well executed. For a debut piece from a freshman brand, it's genuinely impressive, and Anoma is one to watch.

Louis Vuitton

The next brand you need to be across at the moment is perhaps the polar opposite of the scrappy upstart Anoma. Louis Vuitton is one of the biggest names in luxury in the world and the crown jewel of the LVMH empire. So why are we talking about them in the context of 'up and coming' brands? Well, because in the last year or so, Louis Vuitton's watches have leveled up. Under the leadership of Jean Arnault, Louis Vuitton has radically revised its 20-year-old Tambour design and — most recently — the more classical Escale. 

The reason you need to pay attention to Louis Vuitton's watchmaking is because it is so good at the moment, and it only looks set to get better. The new Tambour is a sophisticated sports watch, and the Escale is a thoughtful, classically inspired dress watch. In and of itself, the makeover is impressive, but given the fact that Louis Vuitton has the scale and scope to make Louis Vuitton a watchmaking brand that rivals the best in the business.

Parmigiani Fleurier

Another established watchmaking name that is finally getting its flowers in 2024 is Parmigiani Fleurier — a well-respected name founded in 1996 that specialized in sophisticated and well-finished watches that never quite got the attention they deserved. Things started to change a few years ago when Guido Terreni stepped up as CEO and injected new energy into the brand. In 2021, the Tonda nailed the brief for a modern integrated sports watch, and suddenly, Parmigiani Fleurier was popping up on radars. That energy continued through to Watches & Wonders 2024, with the updated take on the Toric, the very first watch released by the brand. With a simplified dial design, with a hand-grained texture and subtle celadon and sand gold colors, and a stripped-back manually wound PF780 movement, these new Torics are perfectly pitched as contemporary dress watches.

Studio UnderD0g

Of course, not all the brands you should be paying attention to at the moment are super-serious high horology. Studio Underd0g is a young UK-based brand with a taste for fun. The brand has been making headlines with its Pizza Watch — featuring a spectacularly cheesy dial in Pepper0ni or Hawaiian dial toppings that is being hand-delivered throughout 2024. On top of this, Richard Benc's brand operates in a very 2024 manner — opening the books only at specific times to allow them to better manage production. 

Of course, there's substance behind the schtick, their latest collection — a 37mm tribute to the Dirty Dozen field watches is a solid offering, and while there are more conventional dial options, we'd suggest getting in the spirit and opting for the tropical Pink Lem0nade or the tongue-in-cheek take on a familiar shade the brand calls Steffany Blue. 

Fleming

There was a lot of buzz around Fleming's debut model — the appropriately named Series 1 — when it launched earlier this year, and it's easy to see why. The American brand, created by Thomas Fleming, offers a carefully curated, classic timepiece that makes use of some of the watch industry's most legendary names. The movement was developed and produced by Francois Mojon from Chronode, while the rich dials are created at Comblémine — Kari Voutilainen's dedicated dial facility. 

Series 1 launched in three different models — each exceptionally limited — with options in rose gold, platinum and even tantalum. The case features stunning horned lugs, and the dials offer complex guilloché and exquisite hand-finishing, with a different construction depending on the case. One of the most stunning is the rose gold edition, which matches the outer engine turning with a hand-hammered champagne center. As far as debuts go, they don't get better than the Series 1.