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Buying Guides

10 Watches We Love Under USD 200K

By Aaron Voyles
24 May 2022
8 min read

Available at Wristcheck right now

 

Moving on from the other price segments that we’ve recently explored, here’s presenting you the ultimate in watchmaking – the upper echelons, if you will. While there are fantastic watches available at every price point, the USD 200K range allows us to dive into the very depths of innovation and intrigue in the world of haute horology. So let’s explore. 

 

De Bethune DB28 ‘Kind of Blue’

 

de bethune
Photo: Perkin Yu/ Wristcheck

 

 

Kicking things off on our list is De Bethune, one of the finest modern watchmakers around. While their incredible timepieces feature an unrivaled level of craftsmanship, attention to detail and staggering innovation, it’s their unique aesthetic that has captured the hearts of watch collectors across the globe. Championing true design freedom, one of their most unique watches is the DB28 Kind of Blue
 
Launched in 2016, the DB28 Kind of Blue pushes De Bethune’s science fiction-esque design flair to another level. Featuring an entirely flame-blued construction, the watch sports a flame-blued titanium case with De Bethune’s signature articulating lugs, a flame-blued titanium bridge on the dial in their trademark triangle form, finished using traditional Cotes de Genève techniques and a flame-blued movement with some rhodium-plated parts like the power reserve indicator. A genuinely remarkable watch, the DB28 Kind of Blue stands as a perfect example of what’s feasible when a talented watchmaker plays around with an enviable budget.

Asking price: USD 166,667
Available now on Wristcheck.

 

Patek Philippe Calatrava
Ref. 6007A 

 

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Photo: Perkin Yu/ Wristcheck

 

 

Moving from one blue watch to another, we have one of Patek Philippe’s most exclusive and sought-after models launched in recent years – the Calatrava Ref. 6007A. Released in 2020 to celebrate the brand’s newest production building in Plan-les-Ouates, Geneva, the Calatrava ref. 6007A is a contemporary take on a model that has been the foundation of Patek Philippe’s traditional dress watch collection for the better part of the last 90 years.

Crafted out of stainless steel – a rarity for the Calatrava – the Ref. 6007A is limited to just 1000 pieces and sports an entirely transformative gray-blue dial featuring a vibrant carbon style pattern at its center. While it might be a cliché of sorts, this dial can really play with the light in ways that are truly amazing. Fitted on a blue calfskin strap with a delicately embossed texture mirroring the same pattern as on the dial, the Ref. 6007A's carefully constructed design language reflects Patek’s attention to detail and the level of planning that must have gone into the launch of the new production building, which this beautiful timepiece celebrates.

Asking price: USD 78,205
Available now on Wristcheck.

 

Rolex Daytona
Ref. 116589BR

 

rolex
Photo: Perkin Yu/ Wristcheck

 

 

Few timepieces on the market are as widely revered as the Rolex Daytona. Having achieved a legendary status several decades ago, the Daytona is listed in every modern watch collector’s dream collection, and here we have the ultimate variant on offer. While the stainless steel and yellow gold variants get all of the plaudits, this Ref. 116589 is unlike most third-generation Daytonas you might have seen before. Constructed of 18k white gold, the Ref. 116589's bezel and dial spectacularly set it apart from the rest of the pack. 
 
Sitting on a black leather strap and featuring a glossy jet-black dial with diamond-set hour markers, the Ref. 116589's overarching aesthetic is a bold statement on monochromatic luxury. While its diamond-studded dial is beautiful, the watch’s real crown jewel is its factory-set diamond bezel. Studded with 24 baguette-cut diamonds plotted along its entire perimeter, the Ref. 116589 is in a league of its own – offering sheer exclusivity with only a handful of examples available.  

Asking price: USD 83,333
Available now on Wristcheck.

 

Audemars Piguet Millenary Carbon One
Ref. 26152AU.OO.D002CR.01 

 

ap
Photo: Perkin Yu/ Wristcheck

 

 

Created in 1995 as a “canvas for off-beat models”, the Millenary we have here is aesthetically unique, thanks to its three-dimensional design. Limited to just 120 pieces, the Millenary Carbon One shows off a caliber that plays on symmetrical effects between the barrels and their bridges on either side of the chronograph counter; on redesigned shapes such as the tourbillon bridge; and on materials.

Bringing together the skills of AP’s finest engineers, designers and watchmakers, the Millenary Carbon One emerges from Audemars Piguet’s research laboratory as a timepiece that few other brands could dare put their name to. Featuring a uniquely-shaped forged carbon case, black ceramic bezel, push pieces and crown, the watch is powered by an in-house movement equipped with a tourbillon, chronograph, a 10-day power reserve and a black openworked dial. The Carbon One pushes AP’s ability as a watch designer and watchmaker in equally staggering measures – and that is something worth commending. Representing the brand’s constant pursuit of excellence, the Millenary Carbon One is undoubtedly one of the most impressive and exclusive pieces of horological engineering in recent years.

Asking price: USD 76,923
Available now on Wristcheck.

 

Urwerk UR220 SL Asimov

 

urwerk
Photo: Perkin Yu/ Wristcheck

 

 

Known for their unique designs, impressive mechanics and obsession with astronomy, Urwerk never fails to impress watch aficionados looking for something totally out of the box. Based on the brand’s trademark satellite-cube display, the UR220 SL Asimov is a brilliant celebration of Urwerk's everlasting mission to improve upon their offerings and rethink aspects of their designs that might need to be reworked, or at least made better – even if only by a fraction. 

Named ​​after sci-fi writer Isaac Asimov, the UR-220 SL Asimov features Super-LumiNova on its retrograde minute hand, minute scale and three rotating pyramid-shaped transporters, which indicate the hours as they glide along the minute track at the base of the display. With this vibrant alien green popping against its sleek black backdrop mirroring the depths of space, the SL Asimov's design is industrial and seemingly straight out of a sci-fi novel, like Asimov’s “Nightfall”, a short story that explores the concept of darkness - perfectly captured by Urwerk, a watchmaker who has always been deeply inspired by the celestial theme. 

Asking price: USD 166,667
Available now on Wristcheck.

 

MB&F LMX Titanium Green
Ref. 08.TL.G 

 

MB&F LMX
Photo: Perkin Yu/ Wristcheck

 

 

Launched in 2021 to celebrate the Legacy Series’ 10th anniversary, the LMX is one of the most intricately designed and aesthetically astute timepieces to have come from Max Büsser’s Genevan workshop. Featuring two independent time zones across two white slanted sub-dials, an impressive seven-day power reserve as displayed by its vertical indicator at 12 o ‘clock, and an entirely-polished titanium case, the LMX is as functional as it is beautiful. With its stunning green dial, show-stopping central flying balance and signature domed sapphire crystal, this 44mm beauty is certainly a head-turner – just like the rest of Max Busser’s creations. With an intensely attractive movement on display behind its exhibition caseback, it’s a shame you can’t wear the LMX backwards. 

Asking price: USD 125,641
Available now on Wristcheck.

 

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Laptimer Limited Edition
Ref. 26221FT 

 

AP
Photo: Perkin Yu/ Wristcheck

 

 

A fitting tribute to one of Formula One’s greatest legends, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Laptimer was sanctioned by Michael Schumacher’s family following AP's decision to continue sponsoring Michael as a brand ambassador after his accident in 2013. Released in 2015 as the very first laptimer chronograph ever, the Royal Oak Concept Laptimer embodies the AP Concept collection's very essence as a genuinely innovative and ground-breaking timepiece, much like Michael’s impact on F1. 
 
Featuring the dizzyingly complex Cal. 2923 movement, the Laptimer allows its user to time a lap and immediately start timing the next with extreme precision. Limited to just 221 pieces, the 44mm Laptimer is as exclusive as it is complicated. Arguably the ultimate chronograph, in terms of both mechanics and aesthetics, the Laptimer sports a forged carbon case, a titanium bezel and 18k pink gold pushers and crown that stand as a tribute to Michael’s achievements as an F1 legend. 

Asking price: USD 192,308
Available now on Wristcheck.

 

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Rubens Barrichello II Platinum
Ref. 26078PO 

 

ap
Photo: Perkin Yu/ Wristcheck

 

 

Moving from one Audemars Piguet timepiece to another, we present to you the Royal Oak Offshore – the Concept’s less experimental yet remarkably capable older brother. In keeping with our Formula One theme, this timepiece is dedicated to another Formula One legend, Rubens Barrichello. 

Launched in 2006 as a limited edition series of 150 pieces in platinum and created in honor of Ruben, who just so happens to share his birth year with the Royal Oak, the Royal Oak Offshore Rubens Barrichello II Ref. 26078PO offers some wonderfully distinctive design details. Fitted with a hefty 42mm platinum case, the Ref. 26078PO sports a large black ceramic bezel studded with hex screws, two large matching black ceramic pushers, a deeply knurled turbine-inspired winding crown and a legible blue, black and white dial that provides a sneak peek into the movement. This is one watch we just can’t get enough of and thanks to its rarity and unique design codes, it definitely deserves a place in horological history books. 

Asking price: USD 96,154
Available now on Wristcheck.

 

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph 41mm 
Ref. 26331ST.OO.1220ST.01

 

AP
Photo: Perkin Yu/ Wristcheck

 

 

One of the most sought-after and widely loved watches, the Royal Oak Chronograph is a testament to the popularity of Gerald Genta’s most successful creation that turned 50 this year. Measuring 41 mm in diameter and sporting all of Royal Oak’s best-known design tenets, the Ref. 26331ST comes with an integrated bracelet, sleek stainless steel construction, a screw-studded octagonal bezel and a deep blue ‘Grande Tapisserie’ dial that’s not too different from the blue ‘Petite Tapisserie’ dial featured on the original Royal Oak from1972. Audemars Piguet has produced many versions of the Royal Oak Chronograph, while some have mono-color dials, others like the one here, have contrast-colored sub-dials which enhances the overall appeal of this sporty timepiece. 

A staggeringly stunning watch, the Ref. 26331ST blends the best of the Royal Oak with the additional utility offered by chronographs, making it a perfect timepiece for the modern collector. 

Asking price: USD 118,590
Available now on Wristcheck.

 

Rolex Daytona Artisans de Geneve "Mika Challenge"
Ref. 116520-ADG-HAKKINEN 

Rolex
Photo: Perkin Yu/ Wristcheck

 

 

Moving on from Audemars Piguet but sticking with the topic of chronographs, let’s now explore the unchartered territory of modified watches. However, this is not just any modified watch, it’s the Artisans de Geneve Rolex Daytona "Mika Challenge” Ref. 116520-ADG-HAKKINEN, a really special timepiece from ​​one of the best-known names in the industry of aftermarket personalization.

Working closely with collectors, the folks at Artisans de Geneve take up untouched factory-fresh models and customize the watches to perfection as per their client’s exact requirements, and one of the best examples of their work is the Mika Häkkinen Challenge. Using the Rolex Daytona Ref. 116500LN as the base model, the Mika Häkkinen Challenge features an anthracite skeletonized dial with a matching titanium bezel, titanium exhibition caseback and subtle blue and orange color scheme that recall the race tracks Mika triumphed on.

A fitting tribute to Mika's legacy as a double Formula 1 world champion and sporting icon, this Rolex Daytona is even more special thanks to Mika’s design inputs and the unparalleled craftsmanship from Artisans de Geneve. It’s a timepiece that ticks all the boxes for any F1 fan. 

Asking price: USD 115,385
Available now on Wristcheck.

 

See also: 10 Watches We Love Under USD 35K and 10 Watches We Love Under USD 65K