Ressence Founder Benoît Mintiens on Redefining Watchmaking

This interview has been minimally edited for clarity.

Ressence challenges conventional norms by blending innovations, empathy, and a unique concept called “simplication” into every timepiece. Away from mainstream players, the brand continues to evolve without losing sight of its core DNA, creating watches that are not only visually striking but also deeply connected to the wearer’s experience.

In this exclusive interview, we sit down with Benoît Mintiens, Founder of Ressence, to explore the philosophy behind Ressence’s groundbreaking designs, the challenges of pushing boundaries in a conservative industry, and the vision that drives the brand forward.

[Kevin Cureau, Wristcheck] – What’s quite interesting to me is that 15 years on – you started Ressence in 2010 – and up until now, there’s still nothing else quite like Ressence in the watch industry. How do you keep evolving while staying true to the original vision you had for the brand?

[Benoît Mintiens, Ressence Watches] – The fact is that we have a central vision for the brand. We have a DNA. To use a metaphor: we have the “person,” and then you can dress the same person in different styles. Today you’re dressed one way, maybe tomorrow differently. That doesn’t mean you’re a different person – you’re expressing yourself differently. That’s basically what we do.

In our business, we often see that the dressing makes the person. For Ressence, it’s the person who defines the brand. The dressing is just the execution of that personality. So it’s a very different approach. Strong brands have a foundation that’s adaptable to different contexts.

When we define a new model, we define a new context. We ask: how do we dress for that context? Say I’m going diving, how do I adapt Ressence’s DNA for diving? Or if I’m going to a ballroom, how do I adapt it for that?

So we always maintain a central theme of who we are and then translate it.

Yeah, I think that’s visible in each release. And to follow up on that – what drives the direction of each new release? How do you keep building on what you’ve done before, without repeating yourself?

That’s the whole idea: we can adapt. You have to understand it as contextual. Where do we want to go – physically or mentally – and how do we adapt to that situation?

Other brands do this too. You’ll have a dress watch, a sports watch, and so on. But when you take off the brand logo, there’s no logical continuity; you don’t see that they come from the same mindset.

I think that’s one of Ressence’s strengths. From far away, you know it’s a Ressence. We don’t reinvent ourselves, we apply our thinking to a new environment.

Speaking of new environments, you recently released the Type 7, which introduces an integrated bracelet design. Why was now the right time for Ressence to move in that direction?
 

We approach watchmaking from a functionality-first mindset, driven by ergonomics and the user. For us, a watch is a tool. It has to do something for you. That can be to show wealth or sportiness. But for us, it’s about showing time properly, making the experience better.
 

Functionality is central. “Form follows function,” as they say in industrial design. So a tool watch was actually a very logical next step for us, even though we’d never done one before.

We believe a good watch is one you forget – it’s so seamless you don’t think about it. If I can wear it in the shower or not have to take it off to do something with my hands, that’s a success.

Why now? Honestly, we finally found a supplier who could make both the bracelet and the case with the same finish, in titanium, without coating. That was a very technical hurdle. Titanium is very sensitive to finishing; any slight variation in treatment creates visible differences. So it wasn’t concept, it was supply chain reality.

And apart from the titanium finishing, what else did you learn while designing your first sports watch with the Type 7?

It’s not so simple, actually. Designing a good sports watch is hard. There are a lot of them out there, but they’re not all well-designed if you really analyze them from a product point of view. The ones that are truly well-designed – those are the ones that survive.

Our watches are typically very organic in form. But a tool watch usually follows a different design code; it’s boxier, more geometric. So we had to merge these two languages – the organic with the boxy – in a way that feels natural.

That was one of the big aesthetic challenges: to marry those two form languages and make something coherent. Then comes all the detailing, because a watch is also a tactile object. You have to consider how it feels, the haptics. We wanted it to feel fluid and logical in every touchpoint.

Yes, the result is definitely unique – still very Ressence – but distinct in the world of sports watches. You added a GMT complication to it. Are there other types of functions or complications you're interested in exploring for future watches?

Well, for example, we’ll probably never do a chronograph. And the reason is simple: we try to focus on functions that are actually used. Chronographs are beautiful – I like them – but how often do people really use them?

It would require a lot of effort to develop, and for what? Just for it to sit unused? That’s not how we think. We try to focus on functions that people use regularly – daily or weekly – something that’s genuinely useful.

Of course, that’s subjective. It’s not a science. But our approach is to dress for a context, and then ask: what does this context need? We don’t look at it from a traditional watchmaking angle, where the complication is the hero.
 

For us, it’s the experience that matters; the mechanism is just a tool to get there. It’s a very different mindset.

That mindset has always been central to the Ressence DNA. But if you did explore more complex functions like a perpetual calendar or world timer, how would that look through the lens of Ressence’s simplicity?

Honestly, those types of complications – perpetual calendars, world timers – they’re not something we’re looking into.

What we care about is: how does the brain work? How does the body interact with a product? What do we actually need throughout the day?

People talk about precision – okay. But how precise does a watch really need to be?
 

Watchmaking still operates with a 19th-century mindset. Back then, engineering was king. The complexity itself was the prestige. “Look how complicated this is!” And people celebrated that.

We don’t look at it that way. We talk about “simplication”, not complication. Complexity should be hidden – that’s our job. If you see the complexity, I haven’t done my job right. Simplicity is harder to achieve than complication.

In the 21st century, products aren’t defined by engineers anymore, they’re defined by designers, sometimes marketers. But not engineers alone. And yet, watchmaking still thinks like it's the 1800s. That a product must look complex to be superior. We believe the opposite: a product is superior when it's simple.

That’s such a great point. And I guess that mindset – going against the grain – is what made Ressence so different 15 years ago. But do you still encounter resistance from the big brands or groups in the industry today?

Yeah, I think for some people, we’re still considered as something a bit “outside” of the traditional space. They might not say it outright, but I’ve felt it.

I remember when we introduced the Type 2 – it was at SIHH, before it became Watches & Wonders. A big player in the industry came to our booth and said, “That’s taboo.”

Why? Because the Type 2 uses electronics. That’s still a trauma for the industry. Even now.

So yes, we’re accepted by some, but it still takes time for others. We have a very different vision. We’ll see where it leads us. But we’re okay being different.

I think sometimes big brands push away ideas they don’t understand immediately. But I guess that’s part of it – they’re built to avoid risk.

Exactly. They think like brands, not like watchmakers. Not like pioneers. They don’t want to change things with purpose. Their purpose has shifted. It’s not about innovation anymore, it’s about avoiding risk. Quarterly results, business plans, volume, efficiency – that’s the logic now.

And I don’t blame them. I actually admire them. Rolex, for example, they’ve been doing the same thing for 50 years and they’re still incredibly successful. That’s strength.

But we’re very different. We just think in a completely different way, and that’s fine with me.

And are there any innovations or ideas you have that you’re holding back, not because you can’t do them, but because the market’s not ready?

Yes. We have concepts that we’ve developed, but I’m afraid to introduce them because they’re so different, they’d need a lot of explanation. The brand still needs to mature before we can go there.

With the Type 2, we have already crossed a lot of “invisible lines.” Using electronics, for example. That was a tough ride. Not just from a product standpoint, but even getting our retailers to understand it.

They sell watches. If you give them something that looks and functions differently from everything else, it becomes hard for them.

So we’ve learned: don’t go too fast. There’s actually a principle in design called “MAYA” – Most Advanced Yet Acceptable. You want to push the boundaries, but not so far that people can’t relate to it.

Even with the watches we make now; 25 years ago, it wouldn’t have been possible. The technology didn’t exist. Machines weren’t precise enough. Look around: everything runs on batteries today. That was unthinkable in the ‘90s.

Technology changes what’s possible. But the lesson from the Type 2 is: be careful with how fast you move.

And in this constant push for better user experience and simplification – or simplication, as you call it – what else drives innovation at Ressence? What keeps you curious?
 

Yes, we call it “simplication”, not simplification. It’s a twist on the word, because what we’re really talking about is empathy. That’s the core of it.

We want our watches to generate empathy. That’s the goal of any product, really. Empathy creates connection, emotion, experience – all the things that matter. And you can’t generate empathy by being complicated. That’s the contradiction in traditional watchmaking.

Look at how we’re talking now – it’s simple, right? But in your mind, there’s a lot going on. That’s the complex part. But what comes out is simple. That’s how empathy happens.

If you told me everything you’re thinking, it would be overwhelming. And that’s what traditional watchmaking does: it shouts details at you. Complexity.

It’s like being in a conversation with someone who overwhelms you with information. It might be impressive, but it’s not a good relationship.
 

We want a Ressence watch to be loud and clear, easy to understand. Like a good conversation. That’s what creates a connection.

So when someone wears a Ressence watch, that’s what you’re aiming for – empathy. But are there other feelings you want to generate as well?

Absolutely. Every morning, when someone puts on their Ressence, I want them to feel happy. That’s the goal.

We all want to feel better with a watch on our wrist – that’s true of every brand. But the emotion we try to generate is more like companionship.

It’s like a butler. A Ressence is your companion; always with you, giving you just the information you need, in a way that’s clear and calm.

You want a butler who’s easy to understand, not cryptic. It’s the same with communication. If we’re having a conversation and you’re structured and clear, I’ll trust you more.

That clarity is what we try to build into our watches.

And how do you grow the awareness of the brand while keeping it personal, design-focused, and not… too big? You probably don’t want it to become a mass brand, right?

Exactly. Most people don’t buy watches for themselves – they buy them for others. That’s a big difference between mainstream brands and independents.

Mainstream brands are about external validation. Independent brands – like us – are about internal connection. People who buy a Ressence buy it for themselves.

Of course, we’re all social creatures. But the social “reward” for buying a Ressence is different. We build around the wearer. Around their experience. And a lot of our clients aren’t even that interested in the watch industry; they’re interested in design, in meaningful products.

They don’t need the traditional validation. They’re looking for something else.

Do you see yourself – or Ressence – as a kind of bridge between smartwatches and traditional watchmaking? You seem to sit in the middle.

Yes, that’s a good way to put it. There is a connection, and that connection is functionality.

People wear smartwatches for what they do. Not because they’re beautiful, but because they’re useful.
 

Same with Ressence: we focus on function. We remove everything unnecessary. Smartwatches don’t show you the battery or processor; they just give you the information you need. That clarity is something we also aim for.

But here’s the difference: smartwatches don’t create empathy. They’re computers. You don’t relate to a PCB.

With mechanical systems, you can. You see the gears, you understand the spring. Even if you don’t fully grasp the escapement, you feel how it works.

It’s like human relationships — if I don’t understand you, we’ll never have a deep connection. But if I get how you function, even a little, I’ll feel closer to you.

And that’s why people would rather repair a mechanical watch than a digital one. There’s an emotional bond. It’s human. It’s very simple.

So what advice would you give someone buying their first Ressence? Especially if they’re new to independent watchmaking?

Buy a watch that makes you happy. That’s the first rule. Don’t buy for others. Buy for yourself.

It’s like picking out a pair of pants. You might own one pair that looks sharp and impresses others, but at home, you always reach for the comfortable one.

So which one do you really love? Go with that one. That’s the Ressence philosophy. And that applies to independent watchmaking in general, but especially to us.

I see you’re wearing the Type 2 today. Even though it pushed boundaries and maybe the industry wasn’t ready, are you still proud of what it represents?

Very much so. But more than the product, I’m proud of the people who wear it.

We’re working on a book right now, interviewing customers. And honestly, it’s humbling to see the kind of people who choose Ressence. They believe in our vision. That means everything to me.

We’ve managed to build something with real values. That’s not easy. Most people celebrate complexity, but we’ve chosen a harder path: reduction.

It’s like going to a fine dining restaurant where the dish looks very simple. For some people, that’s disappointing; they want more.

But we focus on purity. On quality. On clarity. That’s our identity.

And you had a bit of guidance from Tony Fadell – the former Apple executive – on the Type 2, right? What did you learn from him?

Yes. He’s a collector – he owns traditional watches and Ressence pieces. So he understands both worlds.

I didn’t want just an electronics expert. I wanted someone who understood finesse.

He helped me save a lot of time. When I showed him the system architecture for the Type 2, he pointed out three things I had to figure out before we could even move forward.

First: find the right components in the right size, with low energy consumption.

Second: find the right batteries.

Third: ensure the energy consumption matched those batteries.

If I couldn’t solve all three, the project wouldn’t work. And he was right. Those insights made a huge difference.

So does wearing the Type 2 feel like a reminder of what’s possible – of what Ressence can do when the time is right?

Yes. The idea behind our watches, especially the Type 2, is to make you believe that the future is brighter than the past. Most of the industry sells nostalgia. We want to sell optimism.

And we do that with products that feel modern, but don’t look like spaceships. They're still watches. You can still use them every day. But they don’t look like something made in 1910.

That’s the belief behind everything we do.

And just to close out – is there an object or watch outside of Ressence that you find beautifully designed? Something that’s inspired you?

That’s a good question. And a hard one. But yes, two things come to mind.

First: the Vespa scooter. Its shape was born from its function; made for women wearing skirts, with protection at the front. That form became iconic.

Second: the Concorde. That aircraft was pure function – speed, aerodynamics, elegance.

It wasn’t about style – it became stylish because of its purpose. That’s what great design is. When function and form reinforce each other.
 

Did you ever get to fly the Concorde?

No. I was a student when it stopped flying in 2003. Too poor then. And now it’s too late.

Well, thank you so much for the time, Benoît. Really inspiring to hear your mindset – it’s refreshing to see something so different in the industry.

Thank you. And let me know if you’re in Belgium — or when I’m in Hong Kong, we’ll grab a coffee. I’d love to see the showroom.


Read More About Ressence:
Ressence And The Quest For Complicated Simplicity