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Watch Drop

The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 50th Anniversary Edition in 37mm

By Aaron Voyles
26 Jan 2022
6 min read

Celebrating 50 years of the iconic Royal Oak this year, AP have just released eleven brand-new models within the 37mm time and date collection. Without further ado, let's dive in

 

In keeping with the latest upgrades to the Royal Oak collection, we have been treated to 11 new models within what is perhaps the most universally-worn and truly unisex variant of the Royal Oak – the 37mm time and date variant. Beyond the changes that have also debuted in the rest of the collection, such as the new dial aesthetic and increasingly tapered bracelet design, the new 37mm models introduce a fresh selection of styles and a new movement befitting of a 50th-anniversary timepiece of such grand stature.

 

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The ref. 15550ST.OO.1356ST.04 with a light blue dial (left) and the ref. 15550ST.OO.1356ST.02 with AP's “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” dial (right)

 

The New Movement

 

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All new 37mm Royal Oaks come equipped with a special “50-years” oscillating weight

 

Starting with perhaps the 37mm Royal Oak's most significant change is the new automatic cal. 5900 movement, which it is premiering. Replacing the outgoing Calibre 3120, the new cal. 5900 offers a higher frequency of 4 Hz versus the 3 Hz of its predecessor alongside an impressive 60 hours of power reserve, all the while coming in at only 3.9mm in thickness – a decrease of 0.36mm on its predecessor's 4.26mm. Finished beautifully, as one would expect from AP, the Calibre 5900 features masterfully applied Côtes de Genève, satin brushing, circular graining, circular satin and polished chamfers, all of which are displayed behind the sapphire caseback. Moreover, the new dedicated 50th anniversary oscillating weight has been introduced to the entire collection, except for the 38mm chronograph models.

 

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The New Styles

Beyond its new movement, the new 37mm Royal Oak has seen the addition of 11 new time and date-only variants enter its ranks to ensure that just about every sense of style is covered. With one two-tone model, seven stainless steel models (3 of which feature gem-set bezels) and three pink gold models (which also all feature gem-set bezels), this new family of watches has certainly left no stone unturned.

 

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The ref. 15550SR.OO.1356SR.01 comes cased in stainless steel with an 18-carat pink gold bezel, a stainless steel bracelet with 18-carat pink gold studs, and a stainless steel AP folding clasp.
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The ref. 15551ST.ZZ.1356ST.03 has been given a stainless steel case and bracelet, and a bezel set with 40 brilliant-cut diamonds (~0.92 carats)

 

The Two-Tone

The collection's only two-tone variant, the new ref. 15550SR combines stainless steel with 18k pink gold in the Royal Oak's signature blend of metals with an 18k pink gold crown, bezel, dial and centre links that run throughout the entire bracelet. All in all, this is a stunning watch for any collector seeking out one of the most distinguishable Royal Oak designs there is.

 

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The Steel Only

Outside of the two-tone variant, we have four stainless steel-only variants, with four stunning dials separating the designs - silver, grey, light blue, and "Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50" – the colour explicitly designed for the 50th-anniversary to recall the Royal Oak's original dial colour from 1972. Both the silver and grey provide somewhat monochromatic aesthetics. The grey dial pairs with the shadows that its case casts on itself, and the silver pairs with the shimmering effect resulting from the various polished surfaces across the construction for different ends of the monochromatic spectrum.

 

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The two blue dials are utterly stunning in their own right and distinctive from one another. While the light blue dial is not new to the collection, as it has featured in previous models, it is still as staggeringly beautiful as always - especially with the new embossed signature – capturing the light majestically.

 

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Similarly, the new "Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50" – a type of bright navy blue, is completely transformative as its colour evolves from electric blue in one light to a near-black in another. Achieved through PVD (Physical Vapor Deposition), this is an incredibly accurate depiction of the ref. 5402, the original Royal Oak's most defining feature; it's incredibly unique and iconic dial.

 

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The Diamond-set

With six models sporting diamond-set bezels, each with 40 brilliant-cut diamonds weighing an approximate 0.92 carats, there will undoubtedly be a diamond-set Royal Oak to suit any diamond lover's tastes. Spread across three stainless steel variants and three pink gold variants, the defining feature of each model is its dial. The steel variants are offered with the same dials as the four steel-only variants, except silver. The pink gold variants are offered in silver, "Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50" and an incredible Khaki green that features the same "Grande Tapisserie" pattern as the other dials mentioned.

 

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We've been lucky enough to get the ref. 15551ST in hand here at Wristcheck, and the monochromatic flair that its grey dial provides contrasts beautifully with the 40 dancing diamonds atop its bezel as they reflect and sparkle in the light. With the grey dial's darker undertones, the diamond's bright reflections, and the Royal Oak's incredibly finished case as it reflects light across its various surfaces, the watch is just utterly breath-taking, but that's not exactly a surprise, is it?

 

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Specifications

Royal Oak Selfwinding / 37mm [Two-toned]

Reference: 15550SR.OO.1356SR.01 (Two-toned)
Diameter: 37 mm
Dial: Silver-toned dial with “Grande Tapisserie” pattern
Movement: Selfwinding Calibre 5900

Frequency: 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations / hour)
Power reserve: 60h
Functions: Hours, minutes, centre seconds and date
Water resistance: 50m
Bracelet: Stainless steel bracelet with 18-carat pink gold studs and stainless steel AP folding clasp

Price: HKD 230,000

Royal Oak Selfwinding / 37mm [Steel]

Reference: 15550ST.OO.1356ST.01 (Silver dial); 15550ST.OO.1356ST.02 (Blue dial); 15550ST.OO.1356ST.03 (Grey dial); 15550ST.OO.1356ST.04 (Light blue dial)
Diameter: 37 mm
Dial: Silver; “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50”; Grey; Light Blue – all with  “Grande Tapisserie” pattern
Movement: Selfwinding Calibre 5900

Frequency: 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations / hour)
Power reserve: 60h
Functions: Hours, minutes, centre seconds and date
Water resistance: 50m
Bracelet: Stainless steel bracelet and AP folding clasp

Price: HKD 187,000 for all steel models 

Royal Oak Selfwinding / 37mm [Diamond-set bezel]

Reference: 15551ST.ZZ.1356ST.01 (Light blue dial); 15551ST.ZZ.1356ST.02 (Blue dial); 15551ST.ZZ.1356ST.03 (Grey dial); 15551OR.ZZ.1356OR.01 (Pink gold with silver dial); 15551OR.ZZ.1356OR.02 (Pink gold with blue dial); 15551OR.ZZ.1356OR.03 (Pink gold with green dial)
Diameter: 37 mm
Dial: Silver; “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50”; Grey; Light Blue; Khaki Green – all with  “Grande Tapisserie” pattern
Movement: Selfwinding Calibre 5900

Frequency: 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations / hour)
Power reserve: 60h
Functions: Hours, minutes, centre seconds and date
Water resistance: 50m
Bracelet: Stainless steel bracelet and AP folding clasp; 18-carat pink gold bracelet and AP folding clasp

Price: HKD 257,000 (Steel models); HKD 468,000 (Pink gold models)

All of the above models come with Audemars Piguet’s “50-years” oscillating weight in either rhodium-toned 22-carat pink gold, or 22-carat pink gold. 

For more information, please visit Audemars Piguet online