Moser's New Pioneer Models Offer A Smaller Case, Big Appeal

The Pioneer is an important watch in Moser's assortment. The brand's identity leans heavily towards elegance and dress, which is, broadly speaking, perfect for the pared-back and refined aesthetic that Moser has mastered. Having said that, Moser, along with the rest of the watch-loving world, is aware that multipurpose sports watches are still hot property, which is why, in 2015, the brand released the Pioneer Centre Seconds. 

While the Pioneer name gives rise to images of aggressively rugged tool watches — Moser's explorative debut offers a more nuanced take on the genre. Certainly, the Pioneer has what it takes to handle some rough and tumble — note the rubber strap and 120M of water resistance — but there's more than enough style here to ensure that this watch can hold its head up high in even the most formal of settings. 

Except, there isn't more; there's less. The original Pioneer models clocked in at a sizable 42.8mm across, and the prominent dial amplified that case diameter even further. Now, for the first time, the Pioneer is offered in a 40mm size, and this size reduction is a big deal. The Pioneer has always been an appealing watch, offering those Moser looks with everyday utility, but the reality of the situation was that it was slightly too much watch for some people to wear with comfort or with the style we associate with the brand.

If the aesthetic of the Pioneer was the sort of no-holds-barred tool watch, no one would blink at the nigh-on 43mm case, but Moser's design exists in a liminal space between purpose and poise, and for many, the larger dimensions were challenging. Not any more. At 40mm, the new Pioneer Centre Seconds and Pioneer Tourbillon models are made with more wrists in mind, and the Pioneer still packs as powerful punch as ever. 

Size aside, the case remains largely the same. Steel, with sophisticated and softly curving geometry, and one of the most appealing profiles in the business right now. Height-wise, we're talking about 12.00 tall with the curved sapphire crystal, so it's slimmer than the larger model too. 

What remains the same, though, is Moser's truly incredible dial work. These two models are in the 'Arctic Blue' colorway, a vibrant, radiant color that goes well with the sporty, do-anything essence of the Pioneer. Moser is also famous for letting the color sing, keeping dial clutter to a minimum. You get leaf-shaped hands, and long, faceted hour markers (both dosed with the appropriate amount of luminous material). The brand is also confident enough to let its design do the talking, as the brand mark is applied in understated clear lacquer. 

Of course, the Tourbillon model has some extra visual appeal on the dial side, thanks to the titular tourbillon. The HMC 804 automatic calibre is designed and produced by Moser's sister company, Precision Engineering AG, and offers 72 hours of power. This movement is also quite clever in that the tourbillon is a completely interchangeable module. This might not mean much on a day-to-day basis, but you'll appreciate it when it comes time to service the watch. The calibre of the Centre Seconds model is simpler, but still impressive. HMC 200 is finished with Moser double stripes and, like the tourbillon, offers 72 hours of wind. 

The Pioneer models, as befitting their action-oriented spirit, are offered with rubber, textile, steel or alligator straps. Each has its merit, but to our mind, the textile offers exactly the balance of sport and style that the model is all about.

SPECIFICATIONS

Pioneer Tourbillon Arctic Blue
 

Reference: 3804-1208

Case: 40mm steel case, domed sapphire crystal and see-through caseback, screw-in crown adorned with an “M”, water-resistant to 12 ATM
Dial: Arctic Blue fumé with sunburst pattern, H. Moser & Cie. logo in transparent lacquer Applique indexes, with hour markers in Super-Luminova®, leaf-shaped hour and minute hands, filled with Super-LumiNova®
Movement: HMC 804 automatic Manufacture calibre, 21,600 vibrations/hour, original double hairspring, one-minute flying tourbillon at 6 o'clock with skeletonized bridge
Power Reserve: Minimum 3 days 
Functions: Hours and minutes
Strap: Hand-stitched alligator leather, rubber, textile strap or steel bracelet Steel buckle, engraved with the H. Moser logo
Price: HKD 435,000
 

Pioneer Centre Seconds Arctic Blue
 

Reference: 3200-1217

Case: 40mm steel case, domed sapphire crystal and see-through caseback, screw-in crown adorned with an “M”, water-resistant to 12 ATM
Dial: Arctic Blue fumé with sunburst pattern, H. Moser & Cie. logo in transparent lacquer Applique indexes, with hour markers in Super-Luminova®, leaf-shaped hour and minute hands, filled with Super-LumiNova®
Movement: HMC 200 automatic calibre, 21,600 vibrations/hour, original double hairspring, Hacking seconds, Original Straumann® hairspring, engraved oscillating weight  
Power Reserve: Minimum 3 days 
Functions: Hours and minutes, Central seconds
Strap: Hand-stitched alligator leather, rubber, textile strap or steel bracelet Steel buckle, engraved with the H. Moser logo
Price: HKD 113,000

For further information, visit H. Moser & Cie.