Introducing the Louis Vuitton Escale Time-Only Automatic LFT023

Louis Vuitton's watchmaking division is one of the most interesting (and exciting) brands to keep an eye on, thanks in no small part to the energy and strategic direction of Jean Arnault. Last year, the Tambour morphed into an exceptionally modern integrated sports watch, and now, it's the Escale's time for a makeover.

The Origins

Louis Vuitton first debuted the Escale collection in 2015, and for me, the most memorable iteration was the Escale World Time, a genius take on the world time that followed a familiar world-time formula but made exceptional use of Louis Vuitton's strong travel credibility with a city ring drawing inspiration from the iconic hand-painted luggage decorations that. Dial and complication aside, the Escale offered a more classical take on the watch case than the distinctive Tambour — a round case with sporty elements and a versatile personality.

Earlier this year Louis Vuitton gave us a sneak peek at the new Escale, showing us just how capable it was as a high-horology platform with the Escale Cabinet of Wonders, showing off some A-grade metiers d'art techniques that subtly integrated Louis Vuitton design codes into calmly swimming koi, writhing serpents and majestic dragons. Now, we get the more down-to-earth follow up.

The New Escale Time-Only Automatic

For the first time in the history of Escale, Louis Vuitton is presenting the three-handed version of the model, the Escale Time-Only Automatic Cal LFT023. All told, we're getting four new models. Two in rose gold and two in platinum. All four of these models feature outstanding dials and details, but at the heart of each and every one is the LFT023 movement, which first debuted in last year's Tambour. 

Every new Escale timepiece boasts an engraved serial number delicately displayed on a slim cartouche in contrasting gold, affixed to the transparent caseback. This detail is a nod to the engraved serial number plates found on Louis Vuitton trunks, each signifying its unique identity. When worn, the engraving connects with the wearer's wrist, fostering a bond between the individual and Louis Vuitton's heritage of artisanal craftsmanship.

The Case & Dial

Now, as for the rest of this 39mm package, there's also plenty of attention to detail. The dial design is refined and pared back — with hints of sector inspiration. The minute chapter ring is comparatively plain compared to the central section, with bead-like minutes markers and large cardinal hour markers that appear to almost have been riveted to the dial, creating an almost retro-futuristic effect, directly inspired by Louis Vuitton's trunk-making expertise. The dial center is where most of the immediate on-the-wrist appeal comes into play. The rose gold models feature a textured center, achieved through a stamp designed to convey the suppleness of canvas. It's offered in blue and silver, with the blue being especially striking. The hands are a nod to couture and are shaped like finely tapered needles with highly polished facets. The two platinum models also feature exceptional dials; one is realized with a meteorite center section, instantly recognisable thanks to the Widmanstätten pattern found in nickel-iron meteorites. The other platinum model features a baguette-diamond set case and a glossy black onyx dial. Already, these four interpretations show how versatile this new Escale is going to be, visually speaking.

The trunk-inspired details extend to the casework. The domed octagonal crown echoes a trunk rivet and sits flush against the satin-finished case middle, which moves down to hand-polished lugs with more decorative rivet work. Louis Vuitton being who they are, the straps are also top-notch. The straps of the rose gold pieces, in particular, are inspired by Nomade leather, introduced in 1999, a natural leather that will develop a patina over time and only become more comfortable. These casual-chic straps have fine yellow contrast stitching — another nod to LV's leather goods expertise.

The Movement

Designed by La Fabrique Du Temps and made by specialist movement producer Le Cercle des Horlogers, this modern movement is chronometer certified, powered by a gold micro-rotor and finished with very neat and aesthetically appealing fine industrial finishing. 

The caliber beats at 4Hz, and has a decent 50 hours of power reserve. The LFT023 is exactly the sort of movement you'd want to see in a watch like the Escale — far from boring to look at, and with enough finesse and care in finishing to help it stand out from the proverbial pack.

The Escale was originally conceived as a travel watch, both in purpose and aesthetic inspiration. On this new version, it's clear that Louis Vuitton has done a lot of work updating and refining the design in line with the new brand position and contemporary tastes while still keeping true to the core of the Escale's inspiration, and the brand's deep roots in the world of travel. All told, it's a smart and well-pitched follow-up to the impressive Tambour. Louis Vuitton is one of the most dynamic and exciting brands in the market today, with almost limitless potential.

Louis Vuitton Escale

W3PG11

Rose gold, Silvery dial

Case: 18k rose gold, polished bezel, polished and satin-finished lugs, satin-finished case-sides; diameter: 39 mm; thickness: 8.97 mm (no glass), 10.34 mm (with domed glass), open case-back, serial number engraved on a white gold plate, sapphire crystal, anti-reflective coating

Dial: Silvery stamped center dial and satin-finished tilted flange, 18k rose gold hours and minutes hands, PVD coated titanium seconds hand 18k rose gold indexes

Movement: self-winding mechanical Caliber LFT023, 22k rose gold micro-rotor, 147 components, 28,800 vibrations/hour, 32 jewels, certified chronometer by the Geneva Chronometric Observatory

Functions: Hours, minutes and seconds

Power Reserve: 50 hours

Water Resistance: 50 meters 
Functions: Hours and minutes
Bracelet: VVT camel calf leather and beige calf leather lining

Buckle: 18k rose gold pin buckle with LOUIS VUITTON engraved signature

Price: HKD 207,000

W3PG21

Rose gold, Blue dial

Case: 18k rose gold, polished bezel, polished and satin-finished lugs, satin-finished case-sides; diameter: 39 mm; thickness: 8.97 mm (no glass), 10.34 mm (with domed glass), open case-back, serial number engraved on a white gold plate, sapphire crystal, anti-reflective coating

Dial: Blue stamped center dial and silvery satin-finished tilted flange, 18k rose gold hours and minutes hands, PVD coated titanium seconds hand 18k rose gold indexes

Movement: self-winding mechanical Caliber LFT023, 22k rose gold micro-rotor, 147 components, 28,800 vibrations/hour, 32 jewels, certified chronometer by the Geneva Chronometric Observatory

Power Reserve: 50 hours

Water Resistance: 50 meters 
Functions: Hours, minutes and seconds

Bracelet: Blue calf leather and black calf leather lining

Buckle: 18k rose gold pin buckle with LOUIS VUITTON engraved signature

Price: HKD 207,000

W3PT11

Platinum, Meteorite dial

Case: Platinum, polished bezel, polished and satin-finished lugs, satin-finished case-sides; diameter: 39 mm; thickness: 8.97 mm (no glass), 10.34 mm (with domed glass), open case-back, serial number engraved on a rose gold plate, sapphire crystal, anti-reflective coating

Dial: Meteorite center dial (Gibeon Meteorite, Namibia) and silvery satin-finished tilted flange, 18k white gold hours and minutes hands, PVD coated titanium seconds hand, 18k white gold indexes

Movement: self-winding mechanical Caliber LFT023, 22k rose gold micro-rotor, 147 components, 28,800 vibrations/hour, 32 jewels, certified chronometer by the Geneva Chronometric Observatory

Power Reserve: 50 hours

Water Resistance: 50 meters 
Functions: Hours, minutes and seconds

Bracelet: Black calf leather and black calf leather lining

Buckle: Platinum pin buckle with LOUIS VUITTON engraved signature

Price: HKD 278,000

W3PT3Y

Platinum, Set with baguette-cut diamonds; limited-edition of 20 pieces

Case: Platinum, bezel & case-sides set with 161 baguette-cut diamonds (5.65 cts), polished and satin-finished lugs, crown set with 1 rose-cut diamond (0.15 ct), open case-back, serial number engraved on a rose gold plate, sapphire crystal, anti-reflective coating; diameter: 40.5 mm; thickness: 9.30 mm (no glass), 12.74 mm (with domed glass)
Dial: Onyx center dial and silvery satin-finished tilted flange, 18k white gold hours and minutes hands, PVD coated titanium seconds hand, 18k white gold indexes set with 16 brilliant-cut diamonds (0.03 ct)

Movement: self-winding mechanical Caliber LFT023, 22k rose gold micro-rotor, 147 components, 28,800 vibrations/hour, 32 jewels, certified chronometer by the Geneva Chronometric Observatory

Power Reserve: 50 hours

Water Resistance: 50 meters 
Functions: Hours, minutes and seconds

Bracelet: Platinum folding buckle set with 11 baguette-cut diamonds (0.58 ct)

Buckle: Platinum pin buckle with LOUIS VUITTON engraved signature

Gemsetting: 189 baguette-cut & brilliant-cut diamonds for a total of 6.41 carats

Price: HKD 1,320,000