Introducing the H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Perpetual Tantalum Blue Enamel

Boutique brand H. Moser & Cie has earned a reputation over the years. A reputation for going their own way, and for sticking to their guns when it comes to aesthetics and artistic vision. This attitude is particularly apparent in the Endeavour collection, which is a pared-back, contemporary take on the classic round watch. This latest model, a perpetual calendar with a jaw-droppingly gorgeous dial and technically demanding case, on top of Moser's already brilliant perpetual calendar design, is outstanding in every element.

Blue Smoke

Moser's dials have always been a talking point — the painstakingly minimal design of this Endeavour excludes everything not crucial to the telling of time and date, even including the brand name. But then again, Moser is quite confident in the standout nature of their trademark fumé — so-called for their smoke-like effect — dials. 

Here the dial is extra special, and not just because of the particularly vibrant hue of blue, which shimmers like the waters of a tropical lagoon. The fact that this ombré effect is achieved not just with lacquered layers of paint, but with famously fragile “Grand Feu” enamel is even more impressive. This dial starts with a gold base, engrained with a soft and subtle hammered pattern that then goes through twelve consecutive firings at high temperatures, with each time in the kiln followed by another painstaking layer of pigment. In this process, there are wide margins for error. The dials can crack in the heat; the colors can oxidize irregularly. On their own “Grand Feu," enamel dials are challenging, but adding in color of this complexity truly requires the work of a master. The final color is called Abyss Blue by Moser, and it's undeniably stunning, especially because it is only interrupted by the leaf-shaped hands, power reserve, small seconds, big date and the indices at 12 and 6. 

Tantalizing in Tantalum

The dial is, understandably enough, the most attention-grabbing aspect of this watch, but it's not the only exceptional element. There's also the case. At 42mm across and 13.1mm tall, it has presence, but it's also got some serious weight to it. That's because this case is made from tantalum. Tantalum is a heavy metal, similar in ways to Tungsten, and just as challenging to machine and finish, thanks in part to its 3000-degree melting point. The metal has some attributes that make it well-suited to a watch case. The highly dense and strong metal develops an oxidized layer that protects the metal against environmental corrosion. It also looks very attractive, thanks to a dark gray hue that is prone to blueish reflections. In explaining why Moser has opted to work with this uncommon material, CEO Edouard Meylan says, "When I was 18, my parents gave me my first Haute Horology watch, which was made from tantalum. Ever since then, I have dreamed of introducing this metal at H. Moser & Cie., in spite of the challenges it poses. It took more than two years of testing before we were able to polish the surfaces of our case, a feat that few have been able to match, with most preferring to sandblast or satin-finish tantalum." 

The final exterior feature that brings both the dial and the case together is the gray kudu leather strap, which is both elegant and casual, and far, far cooler than alligator any day of the week. Then there's the calibre, the hand-wound HMC 800, which is a seven-day perpetual calendar, and one of the most pleasingly minimal perpetuals ever made, thanks to the tiny central month indicator and the leap year indicator on the caseback. Beauty on the dial, brains in the back and brawn in the case. This Moser has a little something for everyone. 

Specifications

Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Tantalum Blue Enamel
 

Reference 1800-2000
Case: 42mm tantalum case with curved sapphire crystal, a steel caseback with a curved sapphire crystal and a steel crown adorned with an "M"
Dial: Abyss Blue fumé "Grand Feu" enamel with hammered texture, leaf-shaped hands, small arrow-shaped center hand indicating the months and a big date display
Movement: Hand-wound HMC 800 Manufacture calibre; Diameter: 34mm; Height: 6.3mm Frequency: 18,000 Vib/h; 32 jewels; Power reserve: minimum 7 days; Hacking seconds; Double barrel; Interchangeable Moser escapement; Original Straumann® hairspring; Pallet fork and escapement wheel made from gold; Movement and components hand-finished and decorated
Functions: Hours and minutes, perpetual calendar, big date display, month indicator via central hand, seconds dial at 6 o'clock, power reserve indicator at 9 o’clock and leap year cycle indicator on movement side
Strap: Hand-stitched gray kudu leather with a steel folding clasp, engraved with the Moser logo
Price: USD 83000
 

For further information, visit H.Moser & Cie.     


H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Tantalum Blue Enamel photography by Perkin Yu/ Wristcheck