One of Genta's cherished creations from the 90s, the Oursin, returns in three unique renditions, elegantly reimagined for a contemporary audience
The Origins
Legendary Swiss designer Gerald Genta is responsible for creating the watch models we all associate haute horlogerie with, like Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, Patek Philippe Nautilus, IWC Ingenieur, and The Constellation by Omega. Even after his passing, his enduring legacy still lives on through all these pieces. But now, spearheaded by the maison’s experimental design lab codenamed Gentissima, a new fascinating piece of Genta’s genius emerges – the Oursin.
Inspired by the sea urchin, Genta created the prototype for the Oursin in 1994 – a veritable jewel for the wrist thanks to its round case with deeply convex sides, studded with beads.
The 2024 limited-edition version of the Oursin – which also coincides with the debut of Gentissima – channels the transgressive approach of its original creator. In the words of Evelyne Genta, “The Oursin was among Gérald’s few creations that he was the proudest of; he would have loved those new versions! They are perfect evolutions of Gérald’soriginal design, retaining yet furthering the Oursin’s inimitable style.”
Case and Dial
The Gérald Genta Gentissima Oursin boasts a perfectly balanced 36.5mm diameter, tapping into the androgynous and sensual trends that defined the 1990s. Its design cleverly plays with contrasting colors and textures, beckoning with its peculiar geometries and tempting touch with its tactile surfaces. The convex titanium case is adorned with a mesmerizing pattern of 223 individually threaded and screwed beads, arranged in expanding halos.
Each bead is made from a different material, creating a contrast against the underlying titanium – whether it be white gold, rose gold and diamonds, or yellow gold. The iconic octagon, synonymous with Mr. Genta's designs, appears through a reflection on the dial's center and is complemented by his signature baton hands. The sapphire crystal features a subtle dome that seamlessly blends into the curved edges of the case, while the inner edge of the bezel showcases an octagonal shape with gentle curves – a nod to Genta's affinity for organic forms in his later works. Gentissima Orsin comes in three variations: a monochromatic version in black with white gold beads, a pink-mother-of-pearl-dial one with a rose gold case studded with diamonds, and one with the matte-black DLC-coated titanium case, yellow gold spiked beads and gravity-dark dial.
The Movement
Pulsating at the core of the Gentissima Oursin is the self-winding GG-005 movement, born from the revered Zenith Elite line. This particular variant has been tailored for the Oursin, its rotor transformed into a striking octagon shape adorned with bas-relief beads encircling its perimeter. In a fitting nod to harmony and history, the Elite was introduced in 1994 – coinciding with the birth of the iconic Oursin design.
The Gentissima Oursin made its debut at an exclusive event in the South of France, captivating attendees with a celebration of Maestro Gérald Genta's creative spirit. This limited edition piece marks the beginning of a series, offering glimpses into undiscovered facets of Genta's genius. We can’t wait to see how the Gentissima creation will evolve in the near future!
