Introducing RD#4: The Code 11.59 By Audemars Piguet Universelle

In his 11-year-long tenure as the CEO of Audemars Piguet, François-Henry Bennahmias has accomplished some of the most significant milestones for the company – from driving an aggressive sales strategy that led AP to reach over CHF 1 billion for the first time in 2018 to establishing it as the fourth largest watch brand by sales in Switzerland in 2021, to expanding the manufacturing facility with massive investments and launching the polemical Code 11.59 collection in 2019 – he has been the ultimate force behind one of the top luxury brands in the world. 

Bennahmias’ most ambitious project at Audemars Piguet, however, has just seen the light of the day. Conceptualized and developed over the last seven years, the launch of Code 11.59 By Audemars Piguet Universelle – the brand’s very first ultra-complicated selfwinding wristwatch – is probably Bennahmias’ greatest achievement over the last decade. “It was important for him to have this watch ready for launch in his last year at Audemars Piguet. I will always remember what he kept telling us: ‘we dreamt about it for 100 years, talked about it for 20 years and took seven years to bring it to life.’ The Code 11.59 By Audemars Piguet Universelle was the ultimate challenge for our team of engineers, designers, watchmakers and craftsmen. It presents all our horological savoir-faire in a single watch, which is extremely complex but simple to use,” says Anne Gaëlle Quinet, Head of Complications at Audemars Piguet. 

Last month, we got a hands-on preview of this spectacular timepiece in an exclusive showcase hosted by Quinet at the AP House in Hong Kong. As she walked us through the making of the the RD#4, explaining the 23 complications and the development of the 17 special technical devices for this piece, I was particularly struck by its intuitive design and ease of use – something one rarely gets to see in an ultra-complicated watch of this nature. “Ergonomics was at the center of the development process for this watch. Packing over 40 functions, the new case is just 42mm in diameter and 15.55 mm in thickness,” explains Quinet.

Based on Audemars Piguet’s three major R&D innovations in recent years– the Supersonnerie technology employed in the RD#1, the ultra-thin perpetual calendar movement launched in the RD#2 and the selfwinding flying tourbillon movement seen in the RD#3 last year, the Code 11.59 By Audemars Piguet Universelle or the RD#4 presents the brand’s greatest innovations in one timepiece. 

Offered in four variations crafted out of 18k white or pink gold, the RD#4 will be extremely limited in numbers this year – 7 to be precise. While the two variations with solid dials (black or beige) are priced at CHF 1,450,000, the openworked dial references are available at CHF 1,600,000. For those looking for super exclusivity at this price point, AP is also open to customizing the RD#4 in subtle ways. “We are aiming to release 14 pieces next year and also explore new materials for customization of the RD#4 by 2025,” says Quinet.

Let’s delve deeper into this extraordinary timepiece and its multifaceted architecture.

Decoding the RD#4

Designed as a tribute to one of the world’s most complicated pocket watches from the early 20th century – the L’Universelle, equipped with 26 functions, including a Grand Sonnerie, perpetual calendar, split-seconds and deadbeat-second chronograph – the RD#4 is a testament to Audemars Piguet’s unparalleled contribution to high watchmaking for nearly 200 years.

Originally commissioned in 1899 and restored at the AP manufacture in 2012, the L’Universelle now sits in the heart of the Musée Atelier Audemars Piguet in Le Brassus. This masterpieces was obviously served as a great inspiration for the four engineers and the master watchmaker who were devoted to the making of the RD#4 over the last seven years. 

Since its inception in 2016, the RD#4 was worked upon as a “highly complicated wristwatch fit for everyday use.” While there are a lot of brands who have mastered grand complications and amazed us with their technical innovation, very few have actually made high complications user friendly. With the introduction of the RD#4, AP has set a new benchmark for fine watchmaking. Most of the functions and complications on the watch can be activated with a simple turn of a crown or by pressing one of the discreet push-pieces. “I think AP deserves a standing ovation for managing to fit 23 complications in a 42 mm case, which is only 15.55 mm thick. It’s commendable how the brand has completely reimagined the user experience for a highly complicated watch like the RD#4,” says Austen Chu, Founder & CEO, Wristcheck.

Read along to understand the functionality of the various crowns and pushers on the watch but let’s first unravel the technical highlights of this ultra-complicated timepiece:

Unparalleled Acoustics

Audemars Piguet introduced its patented Supersonnerie technology in the RD#1 in 2015. For the RD#4, the manufacture has combined this acoustic feat with a Grand Sonnerie function, which means this watch can chime the hours and quarters without the wearer having to activate it everytime. There’s also a minute repeater function that can be activated on demand with the help of a pusher at 10 o'clock.

While most supersonnerie mechanisms are hidden under a watch’s caseback, AP has revealed the calibre 1000 with the split-seconds mechanism in all its glory by deploying a double caseback system – comprising a ‘secret’ extra thin cover and a new soundboard entirely made of sapphire crystal. It took three years for the engineers and watchmakers at AP to develop this new case construction with the waterproof sapphire component. 

To ensure proper transmission and amplification of sound – AP has mounted the gongs directly onto the sapphire soundboard instead of the mainplate. The secret cover, which can be opened with the help of a discreet lever at 3 o'clock also features some apertures on the side to amplify the sound.

The platinum oscillating weight has been adorned with a range of finishes, including an engraved pattern of sound waves. This is also one of the canvasses for customization of the RD#4, where a client can get an engraving of his choice done on the oscillating weight.

Astronomical Moon And Intuitive Perpetual Calendar Mechanism

As mentioned, the RD#4 is a culmination of AP’s research and development over the last many years. The Calibre 1000 utilizes patented innovations first seen in RD#2’s Calibre 5133 – the world’s thinnest automatic perpetual calendar launched in 2018. AP had filed two patents for the RD#2’s novel movement construction that allowed for a thinner calendar module. 

The RD#4 has taken this complication to the next level by simplifying the display of the perpetual calendar functions and corrections through dedicated pushers. While the date can be adjusted forwards and backwards by the crown at 3 o'clock the month also can be adjusted in either direction with the help of the crown at 4 o'clock. The semi-Gregorian perpetual calendar mechanism is tuned to automatically advance the day, date and year as per the number of days in a month. According to AP, the watch won’t need a manual adjustment until 2400!

Another highlight of the RD#4 is its moon phase display, which is as realistic as it can get. Located at 8 o'clock, the display involves six different moon positions printed on two concentric discs that combine to form 10 images representing the different stages between the New and Full moon. 

Flying Tourbillon & Split-Seconds Flyback Chronograph

Activated via three crowns on the right side of the case, the flyback chrono and split-seconds mechanisms on this watch are a user’s delight. Besides the legibility factor, it’s the ease of use that makes the RD#4 extra special. While the pusher at 2 o'clock starts and stops the chronograph, the one at 3 o'clock activates the split-seconds and the flyback and zero setting mechanisms can be operated by a separate pusher at 4 o'clock.

Originally seen on the Royal Oak Concept Laptimer, the RD#4 uses a swivel clutch to ensure the chrono hand doest stutter once the mechanism is activated. 

One of the most notable achievements here has been the integration of the split-seconds mechanism with the thickness of the central rotor’s ball bearing – this superimposition helped the engineers reduce the case thickness by almost 1.1mm.

Equipped with a new oscillator with an increased amplitude – first seen in the RD#3 watches last year– the RD#4’s flying tourbillon completes one revolution every minute.

To increase the supply of energy to the watch’s base movement, AP has deployed a large main barrel to power the chronograph, calendar function and the hands. The chiming complications, on the other hand, have their own dedicated barrel.

Overall, the Calibre 1000 promises to deliver a power reserve of 64 hours.

An Exceptional Ultra-Complication That’s Super Easy To Use

According to Quinet, ergonomy was the most crucial and challenging aspect of developing the RD#4. Although the thought of 40 functions and 23 complications – all fitted within a 42mm case – is mind boggling, AP has done an outstanding job in bringing together the best of both worlds, in terms of complexity and ergonomics, for the RD#4.

With a total of six crowns and pushers, symmetrically placed on both sides of the watch, AP has definitely made this watch look much less intimidating than most super complications available on the market. Although the use of Calibre 1000 has led to a slight increase in the Code 11.59’s usual case diameter and thickness, it’s quite sleek for all the functions packed under that stylized bonnet. “Usually, watch brands aren’t able to simplify things as much and you need 30 minutes just to set the watch and hope that you haven’t harmed the mechanism in any way. Whereas in the RD#4, there are barely any challenges like these. Everything on the watch can be easily adjusted via the crowns and pushers on the side. You can even move forward and backwards to adjust the month and the date, which is insane!” says Chu.

The Code 11.59 Has Arrived And How

In 2019, the Code 11.59 made its debut as one of the most hotly debated watches from Audemars Piguet. According to the brand, the CODE stands for Challenge, Own, Dare and Evolve; and 11.59 is that last minute before time flits to a new day. With the launch of the RD#4, it seems Bennahmias has finally driven his point home – the Code 11.59 is the new horological icon to showcase Audmears Piguet’s next gen watches in all their glory. 

The perfect parting gift, we say!

Specifications

Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Universelle

Reference Number: 26398BC.OO.D002CR.02

Movement: Selfwinding Calibre 1000, 9.05 mm thick, 1,155 parts
Functions: A total of 40 functions, including 23 complications and 17 special technical devices. Highlights: Grande and Petite Sonnerie, minute repeater, flying tourbillon, semi-Gregorian perpetual calendar (day, large date, month, year, astronomical moon, moon phases), flyback chronograph, split-seconds, hours and minutes. (This list is not exhaustive and includes the timepiece’s main practical, astronomical and technical complications for the user.)
Case: 18k white gold case, doubled curved glareproofed sapphire crystal, 18k white gold “secret” caseback opening onto the Supersonnerie sapphire membrane, water-resistant to 20 m, 15.55 mm thick
Dial: Grey counters with black external zone, 18-carat white gold hands, black inner bezel
Power Reserve: 64 hours
Strap: Black alligator strap with 18k white gold AP folding clasp. Additional black textured rubber-coated calfskin strap.
Price: CHF 1,600,000


Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Universelle photography by Perkin Yu/ Wristcheck