Equipped with the brand’s first integrated bracelet and a proprietary three-hand automatic movement, this watch marks a new era for one of the most versatile collections from Louis Vuitton
In the world of high watchmaking, 20 years can go by in a blink. This is especially true when you are surrounded by stalwarts with decades of horological experience and exceptional legacies. With no such timekeeping history to its credit, Louis Vuitton forayed into watchmaking with the Monterey I in 1988 – a complex world timer equipped with an alarm, calendar and moon-phase functions. Designed by renowned Italian architect, the late Gae Aulenti, this quartz watch was produced with the help of IWC and was nicknamed “the unicorn” because of its unique crown protruding from the top of the 18k gold case. This lug-free timepiece was offered on a single-piece strap fitted with a clasp similar to those seen on Louis Vuitton’s bags and suitcases.
Often seen on Jean Arnault’s wrist these days, the Monterey is a much-coveted collectors’ classic today but it didn’t really strike gold for Louis Vuitton’s watchmaking credentials in the 1990s. The real game-changer came with the founding of a dedicated department – Louis Vuitton High Watchmaking – and the introduction of the Tambour in 2002. The drum-shaped Tambour has since been at the center of Louis Vuitton’s biggest mechanical achievements. Right from the first lustrous brown GMT to the delightful Spin Time, the complex Tambour Minute Repeater, the Tambour Curve Flying Tourbillon with Poinçon de Genève certification and the GPHG award-winning Tambour Street Diver from 2021 – there have been a multitude of epic watches coming through the Tambour collection.
And now Louis Vuitton is marking another milestone with the introduction of its first integrated bracelet and an exclusive automatic movement designed by La Fabrique du Temps for the new Tambour. Available in two versions – a sleek tone-on-tone steel model with a silver-gray dial and the other with a deep blue dial, the latest Tambour is all about casual elegance presented on one of LV’s most sophisticated case designs enhanced with exceptional finishing techniques for the dial as well as the movement.
A New Era In Form and Design
Inspired by the Japanese taiko drums, the Tambour’s slightly flared case design – wider at the base than at the top – has been the perfect platform for LV’s high complications like the Spin Time and the Carpe Diem. However, the latest iteration of the Tambour is designed for everyday-wear. The 40mm steel case is 8.3mm thick and is fitted with the brand’s first integrated bracelet that blends seamlessly with the lug-free, round case with curved sides.
Besides the aesthetic and mechanical refinements, the new Tambour has been designed with ergonomics in mind. To ensure a better fit on the wrist, the caseback is arched in the middle, while the bracelet links have been given a slightly round profile with convex surfaces. The sleek triple-blade folding buckle is engraved with “Louis Vuitton” and is super convenient to use.
One of the most enticing features of this watch is the multi-dimensional dial, showcasing different finishing techniques – the micro-sandblasted surface is divided into two parts by a polished step. While the minutes are displayed on the outer ring, the hours are indicated with appliques on the inner ring. Except for the crown and the central links and chamfers on the bracelet that are polished, the rest of the watch has a beautiful brushed finish. The different finishes and textures come into play under light, bringing out all the little details that have been thoughtfully woven into the fresh design aesthetics of the watch.
One of the other hallmarks of the Tambour – the 12 letters of ‘Louis Vuitton’ engraved on the caseband – can be seen on this piece as well but the letters have been raised and polished to look even more refined. The usual baton-style hour and minute hands seen on the Tambour previously have also been openworked and tapered for a cleaner look for the newer version. Crafted out of white gold, the diamond polished indexes, numerals and hands are filled with Super-LumiNova® for optimal use in the dark.
The watch also borrows a couple of interesting elements from old Louis Vuitton watches – the lug-free dial, for instance, and also the “FAB. EN SUISSE” message tucked under the small-seconds counter. According to the brand, the phrase “Fabriqué en Suisse”, alludes to La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton – the center for all horological innovation at the maison.
Louis Vuitton’s First Proprietary Three-Hand Automatic Movement
The technical highlight of the new Tambour is the Calibre LFT023, which is certified by the Geneva Chronometric Observatory. What does this mean for Louis Vuitton’s watchmaking division? Well, this certificate is a proof of the brand’s commitment to making high quality timepieces that are in compliance with industry standards. Louis Vuitton is the first watchmaking company to certify its pieces through the Geneva Chronometric Observatory, which follows the rigorous standards of ISO 3159, ensuring precision and accuracy of all timepieces tested by the Observatory.
Made in collaboration with movement specialists Le Cercle des Horloger, Louis Vuitton’s first proprietary three-hand automatic movement – Calibre LFT023 – promises to deliver an accuracy of -4s and +6s per day, which is at par with the leading watch brands within the Swiss watch industry. The new Tambour is water-resistant up to 50 meters and can deliver a solid power reserve of 50 hours.
In tune with Louis Vuittion’s elaborate vision for its watches, the display caseback reveals a beautiful 22k micro-rotor decorated with a stylized LV motif. While the micro-sandblasted bridges, polished edges and chamfers complement the aesthetic details on the dial, novelties like transparent jewels, instead of the conventional magenta rubies, make the new Tambour so much more fresh and enticing.
We love it because it’s a watch made for everyday wear and tear but without any compromises on the style quotient you expect to see in a timepiece made by Louis Vuitton. There will be three more additions to these launch pieces soon and we can’t wait to see how the Tambour evolves in the coming years!
SPECIFICATIONS
Louis Vuitton Tambour Automatic
Tambour W1ST10
Case: 40mm stainless steel
Dial: Silver-gray, small seconds counter at 6 o’clock; white gold hands, numerals, and indexes, with Super-LumiNova® coating on the hands and numerals; sapphire glass with anti-reflective coating
Movement: Caliber LFT023, mechanical movement with automatic winding, visible through the sapphire case back
Power Reserve: 50H
Water Resistance: 50m
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds
Bracelet: First integrated Metal bracelet with invisible 3-blade folding buckle
Number of Jewels: 31
Price for the steel version: €19,500
For more information, visit louisvuitton.com
