How To Build An Enviable Watch Collection

Collections come in all shapes and sizes. In fact, I think it’s probably fair to say that each and every one is probably unique. Every collector has a different approach, and each collection is shaped by one mind that can be motivated by a multitude of factors, and that’s what makes collecting so much fun. Much like the concept of questioning if art or music is ‘good’, it's entirely subjective; if the author or composer likes it and is happy with it, then it is ‘good’. With collecting it’s possible to apply the same logic and understand that an assemblage of watches within a singular collection is entirely the prerogative of the curator.

Whether a spread of interesting Swatches, a catalog of unique Patek complications or a treasure trove of issued Rolex Submariners, every collection has its audience that will see it as the ultimate collection and aspire to such a great curation of watches. I guess that if the collector is happy then it’s an enviable collection. But how does one go about making inroads into creating an enviable collection and what makes it enviable to the outside world? 

One of the most prolific collectors is Italian Alfredo Paramico. Since his childhood in Naples, he has been fascinated with objects d’art and it was the discovery of early watch magazines in the early 1980s that ignited his passion for watches. What makes an enviable collection in Paramico’s view? “I have to say my parameters to judge, or maybe I should say "appreciate", an enviable collection has changed quite a lot in the last 10 years. I am not attracted at all by a collection of important vintage watches if they are not in beautifully preserved condition.

For me, an enviable collection is composed of some high-quality vintage watches, some cool neo-vintage timepieces and finally, why not, some contemporary independent pieces!”

Having discovered some incredible watches and collected dozens more besides, how does he approach building a collection? “When it comes to vintage watches I would certainly say it’s all about the condition. Quality still plays the most important role in any vintage watch collection. There is no better reaction than a speechless face when in front of an incredible, well-preserved watch! With neo-vintage, a very important aspect to understand is the context of the 90’s, the fashion of that period and the renaissance of the mechanical watches after the quartz era. I really think that important watchmakers and great minds such as Parmigiani, Calabrese, Daniel Roth and Jean-Claude Biver played such an important role in the rebirth of the watch industry. Finally, the independent era that we are witnessing in these recent years gives us so many choices to evaluate the work of truly highly skilled and talented watchmakers. Not only the "usual suspects" like Roth, Journe, Dufour, Charles Frodsham but young names like Theo Auffret, Simon Brette and many more besides.”

So what one tip would Paramico give to an aspiring collector hoping to build an “enviable collection”? “Just follow your heart. Passion is heart and heart is love. You can't be wrong!”

Wristcheck founder and serious watch collector Austen Chu concurs with Paramico’s view about buying with your heart. “When building a watch collection, I think the first and most important thing is to buy watches that you're actually passionate about and that speak to you; follow your heart.  Also, in order to hone yourself as a collector I believe you need to experience buyer’s remorse and seller's remorse, as we don't really learn about ourselves as collectors and improve philosophically until something's gone and you're like “oh damn”!”  

With the recent mainstream focus on watches, does Chu feel like he sees people buying watches that are deemed ‘hot’ just to follow the herd? “So many times I have seen people buy watches just because of hype, then buy something else that they actually really like and that spoke to them. You need to be honest with yourself, ask yourself if you're buying purely because of passion or for buying for value retention and investment.  I like to call the former, the passionate collector and the latter, the pragmatic money-conscious collector. And there is nothing wrong with being either or a mix of both.”

Wristcheck has a growing community of new and established collectors. As the organization's leader, how does he advise emerging collectors to approach the world of watches? “Do research before buying your watch and in the secondary watch market you kind of get what you pay for, in terms of if you've paid top dollar, then normally the quality that you get is better. I think you should approach watch collecting in the same way that you would buying a second-hand car. With a second-hand car, if you're looking at buying the cheapest one available in the market, the chances are it's been crashed maybe once or twice, repaired a few times and is in terrible condition. The same applies for the watch market; if you're buying a watch that's super cheap, the chances are it’s cheap for a reason – like it's been polished many times, doesn’t have box and papers, might not be all period correct if vintage or might even be a stolen watch in the worst case. There's plenty that can go wrong and just because you're trying to save that little bit of money in the short term, the long term pain might be significant.” Sage advice as not many of us enjoy pain!

Briefly heading back to Italy, another Italian with a huge reputation for hyper-collecting is Paolo Cattin. A jeweller and watch dealer by trade, he has become the most important collector of Perpetual Daytonas. The Daytona is enjoying its 70^th birthday this year and is showing no signs of slowing down in terms of its ultra-desirability and its status as an investment vehicle. What initially led Cattin to the focus of his collection? “Well, I have always loved watches that come on a leather strap. Both for personal taste and because I have always considered it more understated compared to gold or steel bracelets. Rolex was producing and selling watches in gold, important watches, on a leather strap and interestingly, this fact was not and is not known by everyone. Rolex was producing watches that traditionally had a gold bracelet, but in some years, they released a series with a leather strap. For example, everyone knows the Rolex Day-Date with a gold bracelet. Well, in some years, Rolex also produced it with a leather strap.”

It was this general love that Cattin honed to focus on one model, the Daytona, and then move to an even more specific era and model type, the leather strap Zenith Daytonas. “I started buying gold Rolex Daytonas with a leather strap because, as I mentioned before, aesthetically and personally, I preferred them over the steel and gold bracelets. I was fortunate enough to start the collection in the 90s when they were still in production. Consequently, I was able to make a relatively affordable investment in terms of prices as I could buy them in a period when these watches were not yet considered collectibles, and therefore not as expensive as they are today. When the number of watches in my collection reached 10, 15, and then 20, I wanted to delve deeper into the production differences, so I undertook some deep level research and decided to focus solely on this family of watches that was introduced in 1991 and discontinued in 2000.”

The Daytona market has been hot for over 35 years now and whether at auction, on the website of a dealer or at a trade show, special pieces move quickly and for significant sums. How does Cattin acquire the pieces in the current market? “Initially I bought watches in the traditional ways, from dealers, at auctions and at the international fairs. Then, with the advent of the internet, I became active on the international forums and chat rooms. Currently, I have the privilege of being well known, so many people from all over the world contact me to offer me unique and exclusive watches.”

What tips would he share for building an important collection? “An important collection doesn't necessarily have to have a high monetary value. A collection of watches in the mid-price range can also be important, just like any collection, regardless of its content and the economic brackets in which it is placed. The value that must be respected when collecting watches and other assets is the dedication to a thorough study of the subject, always seeking to expand one's knowledge about the collected items. The motivation that drives a collector is not solely the monetary value but primarily the emotional value and the desire to understand and transmit knowledge about their collectible objects. Collecting watches is an emotional experience and a continuous pursuit of knowledge.”

I personally believe that this point on monetary value is a very important one, especially when it comes to new and emerging collectors. One young collector with a growing network of like-minded enthusiasts is Netherlands-based Berend Bulang, who knows what’s up: “Watch collecting is big fun! We should share the fun and try to build our own networks and friends in this beautiful collecting scene. This will take your passion to another level and help develop your personal taste. I have always found it important that young collectors build a good knowledge base around watches, especially when it comes to vintage. This knowledge is older and more established than recent trends of YouTube video’s and IG accounts, the deeper knowledge is with people who have been in the business longer than us. Get on forums, build your own Instagram watch account or go to auctions and events. This will make your watch passion deeper than just enjoying your watches at home!”

What does he believe is the most important aspect to building a collection? “Well, for me the most important aspect in collecting has always been that you collect out of passion and with the correct knowledge. Collecting vintage watches is something very magical and special, but it is important to understand the world of collecting as well. Always buy the best quality! This especially does not mean that a watch has to be full set, new-old-stock or unpolished, these are ‘sales terms’ that are misused so many times. Understand that, especially with vintage, these watches have been used for a long time in most cases, and it is totally normal that they’ve been serviced or freshened-up and do not come with the original accessories anymore. By good quality I mean that the watch, especially the dial and case are in good and original condition.”

In summary an understanding of your own taste is key in building an enviable collection. How many times have you seen watch guys have a scattergun approach to buying watches? This inevitably leads to serial flipping and a general state of discontentment! Once you know what you like, make sure you do the very best that you can. Whether it’s a 1950s time-only Rolex Oyster or a grand complication from Patek, condition is key. And as has been said a couple of times already, just enjoy it and do it for yourself. If you love it, you can’t go wrong!