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All articles featuring skeleton timepieces that showcase their intricate inner workings.

Skeleton

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Flying Tourbillon Openworked

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak RD#3 vs Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Openworked

&nbsp;

Showing What Matters

“It's what's on the inside that counts” – there is no saying that suits the world of horology better than this. No matter how specialized our watches are for outdoor activities like diving, racing or flying, nothing matters if the movement inside the watch is not up to scratch. And so, watchmakers across centuries have taken great care in creating some incredibly complex and robust movements to serve our needs. 
 
However, movements can also be used to display a watchmaker's skill and craftsmanship – whether through a sapphire crystal caseback, a hinged caseback or an open heart display, there are plenty of ways to demonstrate the inner workings of a watch but the most powerful of them all is the art of skeletonization. Achieved by removing some material from the dial and movement, skeletonization can completely transform a watch and its entire aesthetic. By taking what is typically unseen and turning it into the centerpiece, the art of skeletonization recalls the intense labor that typically goes unnoticed in a timepiece and celebrates it as it so deserves.

&nbsp;

The History of Skeletonization

Like many of watchmaking's interesting facets, skeletonization does not have a concise history. In fact, as a horological art form, its origins can be traced back to 1760. Introduced by French master clock and watchmaker, André Charles Caron, the skeletonisation technique was used to showcase his incredible movements and all the work that went into them.

&nbsp;
<img alt="A view of the balance-cock side of the watch movement no. 1244 by André Charles Caron, circa 1750." data-caption="Movement No. 1244 by André Charles Caron, circa 1750&amp;nbsp;©&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ottawaclocksandwatches.ca/images/Education/Andre-Charles%2520Caron%2520A%2520watchmakers%2520%2520Shop%25201.pdf&quot;&gt;2019 National Association of Watch and Clock Collectors, Inc.&lt;/a&gt;" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="caf6d36d-88a7-4d71-bb73-5282a05205e8" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/180/Edit%2520Watches%2520and%2520Handbags.png" width="1568" />
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By the seemingly simple idea of carving out some material from his timepieces, he truly transformed his work and gave credence to the notion that less is more. Thanks to the unique effect of skeletonization on timepieces, Caron's watches were unmistakable as his and his work only. While Caron began by skeletonizing the balance bridge, a relatively small part within the movement, it laid the foundations for the phenomenal art form that it is today.

&nbsp;

Early Days of Skeletonizing in Wristwatches

While skeletonization did disappear from watchmaking for almost two centuries, it made a rather spectacular comeback in the 1930s when none other than Audemars Piguet noticed how the technique could transform a timepiece and draw attention to the artisanal craftsmanship within horology. In 1934, Audemars Piguet released the world's first skeletonized pocket watch but then between the 1930s and the 1960s, skeletonized watches didn't really pick up. The popular designs of the time were Bauhaus-inspired minimalist classical dress watches with simple dials and basic colors. However, things changed in the 1970s when the Quartz Crisis turned the industry upside down. Luxury watchmakers were suddenly tasked with the job of maintaining their own relevancy to fend off financial ruin. And how did they achieve the same? They skeletonized the dials and movements of their most luxurious timepieces in a bid to demonstrate that the quartz movements were nowhere close to their watches. 
 
What started as a simple artform had now become a lifeline for many watchmakers, who wanted to highlight the mechanical complexity of their timepieces. Ever since, skeletonized timepieces have grown to become some of the industry's most sought-after watches. The intense labor required to skeletonize a dial and the inner workings of a movement have ensured that skeletonized timepieces are in short supply and make for some of the most unique visuals within the industry. So, let's dive into some of our favorite skeletonized watches and find out what makes them special.&nbsp;

&nbsp;

Cartier Santos Skeleton
<img alt="Cartier Santos Skeleton" data-caption="Cartier Santos Skeleton&amp;nbsp;Photo: Perkin Yu/ Wristcheck" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="81b2acee-b006-46dc-ac8e-2342055ad6b2" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/180/Skeleton%2520%2523409%2520%2523473%2520%2523542%2520%2523617%2520%2523137_089.jpg" width="1568" />
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Famed for their iconic timepieces such as the Tank, Santos, and several others, French jeweler and watchmaker Cartier is often at the forefront of horological design. With key tenets of their design, like their use of Roman numerals forming the lynchpin of their aesthetic, it is only fitting that Cartier decided to incorporate Roman numerals into the skeletonized variant of the legendary Santos. Launched in 2018, the Santos Skeleton provides a wonderfully unencumbered view of its manual-wind cal. 9611 MC movement, with its bridges being formed out of the Roman numerals that double as its dial. An incredibly creative synthesis between a technique that isn't often associated with the brand and a key characteristic of the brand, the Santos Skeleton is one of the finest skeletonized watches on the market today.

&nbsp;

Cartier Pasha Skeleton&nbsp;
<img alt="Cartier Pasha Skeleton" data-caption="Cartier Pasha Skeleton Photo: Perkin Yu/ Wristcheck" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="462bf933-29a7-4604-b35c-f3970c2b4fff" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/180/Skeleton%2520%2523409%2520%2523473%2520%2523542%2520%2523617%2520%2523137_111.jpg" width="1568" />
&nbsp;

Continuing with another of Cartier's most iconic designs, we have the skeletonized Cartier Pasha. Launched in 2020, this variant of the Pasha reinvents the 1985 design by using Cartier's famed railroad minute track design and incorporating it into a skeletonized display's architecture, much like how the Santos uses its Roman numerals. Carefully balancing the Pasha's distinctly 1980's design with the contemporary attitude of its immaculately skeletonized display and movement, the Pasha Skeleton showcases the level of detail that Cartier can achieve with its myriad of polished bevels and brushed surfaces. Taking an already bold watch and making it even bolder, this is about as classically Cartier as it can get.

&nbsp;

Audemars Piguet 40th Anniversary Royal Oak Openworked Extra-Thin Platinum
<img alt="Audemars Piguet 40th anniversary Royal Oak Openworked Extra-Thin Platinum" data-caption="Audemars Piguet 40th anniversary Royal Oak Openworked Extra-Thin Platinum Photo: Perkin Yu/ Wristcheck" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="e6eff065-94b0-4863-b594-88ec0b39d826" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/180/Skeleton%2520%2523409%2520%2523473%2520%2523542%2520%2523617%2520%2523137_070.jpg" width="1568" />
&nbsp;

Given their association with the art of skeletonization since the 1930s, it would certainly not be a stretch to consider Audemars Piguet as the OG of skeletonization. However, historical achievements aside, it is what a watchmaker can do today that earns them their plaudits, and the ref. 15203PT deserves to be considered one of the best-skeletonized watches on the market. Launched in 2012 as a limited edition run of just 40 pieces, this watch celebrates the Royal Oak's 40th anniversary while also paying homage to AP's history in openworked dials. Featuring an immaculately skeletonized version of the iconic cal. 2121, the cal. 5122&nbsp;and a beautifully openworked slate gray dial that pairs perfectly with the&nbsp;platinum construction, the ref. 15203PT is nothing short of a masterpiece. Shining a light on both -&nbsp;the art of skeletonization and the icon that is the Royal Oak, the ref. 15203PT combines two of AP's best-known tenets in complete harmony.

&nbsp;

Girard Perregaux Laureato Skeleton Black Ceramic
<img alt="Girard Perregaux Laureato Skeleton Black Ceramic" data-caption="Girard Perregaux Laureato Skeleton Black Ceramic" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="63fdb0ce-ee46-420f-88f9-e3d042aa5897" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/180/Skeleton%2520%2523409%2520%2523473%2520%2523542%2520%2523617%2520%2523137_056.jpg" width="1568" />
&nbsp;

Operating within the pantheon of luxury sports watches since 1975, the Girard Perregaux Laureato was one of the earliest timepieces to follow in the footsteps of the Royal Oak. With its long history, there have been quite a few beautiful Laureato models in the past, but few have been as visually distinctive as this, the Laureato Skeleton Black Ceramic. Made of black ceramic, as its name suggests, this variant of the Laureato utilizes an openworked dial to showcase its skeletonized cal. GP01800-0006 movement. Treated using a galvanic process that has resulted in an anthracite color across its display, the Laureato Skeleton Black Ceramic is a strictly monochromatic timepiece that utilizes the harmonious dance of its mechanical components to elevate itself even further along the path of great luxury sports watches. Lightweight and boasting a beautifully finished movement that is on full display, this beauty has everything one could ask for in a modern skeletonized sports watch.

&nbsp;

Zenith Defy El Primero 21 Pantone
<img alt="Zenith Defy El Primero 21 Pantone" data-caption="Zenith Defy El Primero 21 Pantone&amp;nbsp;Photo: Perkin Yu/ Wristcheck" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="d8ecfda9-9f49-42ec-b6ab-290ef582d30b" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/180/Skeleton%2520%2523409%2520%2523473%2520%2523542%2520%2523617%2520%2523137_084.jpg" width="1568" />
&nbsp;

Going from all-black to not-so-all-black, we have perhaps one of Zenith's best-received launches in the last decade&nbsp;— the Zenith Defy El Primero 21 Pantone. Launched in collaboration with Argentinian contemporary artist Felipe Pantone, this timepiece provides Felipe with the perfect canvas to create one of the most unique timepieces on the market today. Featuring a black ceramic case, the Zenith Defy El Primero 21 Pantone uses a skeletonized dial and movement to provide Felipe with the means to alter the Defy 21's bridges, indices, subdials, hands, and dial how he saw fit. Famed for his use of interesting geometry and bold colors, the resulting timepiece uses skeletonization to provide the artist with a wide selection of surfaces, shapes and textures to exhibit his artistic expression. In essence, skeletonization provided Felipe with the same opportunity to express his talents as it did André Charles Caron back in 1760, and he did not disappoint. Instead, he created one of the most stunning skeletonized watches of the last decade.&nbsp;

&nbsp;

Richard Mille RM 67-02 Wade Van Neikirk
<img alt="Richard Mille RM 67-02 Wade Van Neikirk" data-caption="Richard Mille RM 67-02 Wade Van Neikirk&amp;nbsp;Photo: Perkin Yu/ Wristcheck" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="e20097cc-1645-4b26-8d40-6d6f2222fc6c" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/180/RM67-02%2520%2523566_102%2520%25283%2529.jpg" width="1568" />
&nbsp;

Moving from one iconic collaboration to another, here's our showstopper&nbsp;— the Richard Mille RM 67-02 Wade Van Neikirk. An extreme watch designed for an extreme individual, the RM67-02 was created to be as light as possible to refrain from slowing down the 400m world record holder and South African Olympic gold medallist. Perfectly suited to the runner's needs, the RM67-02 weighs just 32 grams, thanks to its skeletonized display and use of&nbsp;space-age construction materials. Made of titanium, Carbon TPT®, and Quartz TPT® colored yellow and green, the watch pays&nbsp;homage to South Africa, Wade Van Neikirk's native country. In a bid to further solidify this link, the RM67-02 also boasts red, blue, green and yellow hand-painted movement bridges that make this watch&nbsp;one of the brightest and most easily recognizable Richard Mille timepieces on the market.&nbsp;

&nbsp;

The Art of Skeletonization And Six Watches Doing it Right

Intent on showing everyone the limitless potential locked within the Code 11.59, Audemars Piguet has released a new variant of this ever-developing collection, allowing it to spread its wings and become that bit more enticing
<h3>&nbsp;</h3>

<h3>The Code 11.59's Journey</h3>

Debuting in 2019, the Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 was one of the first non-Royal Oak-derived collections to emerge from Le Brassus in quite some time. Breaking free from the watchmaker's long-established aesthetic code and well-defined design language, the Code 11.59 was a maverick within AP's catalogue and, as such, was quickly blown off by the watch collecting community as something that wouldn't last. But, of course, for Audemars Piguet, this very criticism has long been their fuel, with the watchmaker constantly determined to prove their naysayers wrong and demonstrate that they operate outside of the conventional rules of watchmaking. Audemars Piguet doesn't, and has never, sought to conform to any particular conventions.&nbsp;

&nbsp;

<img alt="Wristcheck" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="00fb35e4-a9bd-4b3c-b8f4-a1cc33904c3e" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/74/DSCF4274WM.jpg" width="1568" />

&nbsp;

If we look into AP's history, they wouldn't have the Royal Oak, Royal Oak Offshore or the Royal Oak Concept if they had listened to those that said the Royal Oak was dead and buried before it got off the ground in 1972. In the same vein, a lot of watches that came about as a result of the Royal Oak wouldn't exist either, like the Nautilus and so on. Audemars Piguet have repeatedly demonstrated that they know what they are doing, and if you ask me, this latest release just emphasises that the Code 11.59 will turn out to be the same — a massive success, just like their other watches.

Building upon an already action-packed 2021 filled with novelties and leading up to what will be an era-defining year with 2022 being the Royal Oak's 50th anniversary, this latest release, in my opinion, is the best Code 11.59 variant so far, and has whetted my appetite for more of whatever the team in Le Brassus is cooking up for next year.

&nbsp;

<img alt="Wristcheck" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="89937339-b5c9-4df9-87a5-3259cd65d24f" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/74/DSCF4314WM.jpg" width="1568" />

<h3>&nbsp;</h3>

<h3>A Case for the Code 11.59</h3>

Arguably one of the most overlooked pieces of watch design is the case that the watch uses. So many brands rinse and repeat their case shapes or introduce tiny differences that offer little to the wearer — but not AP. The Code 11.59's signature design element is just how unique its case is, separating it from the rest of the watches that it competes on the market with.

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<img alt="Wristcheck" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="1bdc8412-8823-48d6-989f-260597466c8f" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/74/DSCF4316WM.jpg" width="1568" />

&nbsp;

Modular in design, this is the most complex case AP has ever created as it combines a multitude of surface finishes that can only be achieved and perfected by hand. With satin-brushed surfaces and polished chamfers throughout the octagonal architecture (a subtle nod to the Royal Oak), the job of the artisans creating the Code 11.59's case is not an easy one at all. Combining its hollowed lugs with its three-piece design, the Code 11.59's case is about as visually unique as it can get in the watch world.&nbsp;

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<img alt="Wristcheck" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="a354933f-4d8d-4a57-80cc-1d727e860107" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/74/DSCF4261WM.jpg" width="1568" />

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With the ref. 26600CR.OO.D009KB.01 here, AP have continued the Code 11.59's unique two-tone precious metal construction. Unlike most two-tone watches that use one precious metal and combine it with stainless steel, the ref. 26600CR uses 18ct white gold for its caseback and front, and 18ct pink gold for its octagonal middle case. A refreshing take on the age-old two-tone concept, I must say its subtlety is quite appealing, and the effect AP achieve with this construction technique is that they highlight the Code 11.59's case complexity. After all, why not show off the incredible work that has gone into such a complex case?

&nbsp;

<img alt="Wristcheck" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="c86e8b7e-0e0f-4165-8ff9-d7b98896c359" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/74/DSCF4271WM.jpg" width="1568" />

<h3><img alt="Wristcheck" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="1ffaf8db-5fff-4ce0-b528-0373287284cd" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/74/DSCF4264WM.jpg" width="1568" /></h3>

<h3>&nbsp;</h3>

<h3>Be Still My Beating Heart</h3>

When we move away from the ref. 26600CR’s intricate case design and stunning physical architecture, we are greeted with one of the best views in watchmaking: a fully skeletonised movement. Audemars Piguet's signature since the 1930s, the brand has been skeletonising their wristwatches longer than anyone else, and it definitely shows here.&nbsp;

Powered by the in-house cal. 2948 — a multi-tiered hand-wound tourbillon openworked movement — the ref. 26600CR's lack of a conventional dial enables AP to display every conceivable piece of the movement, with its bridges, barrel, gear trains and tourbillon all fully exposed beneath the Code 11.59's domed sapphire crystal. Blending vertical and circular satin finishing with polished chamfers, the entire labyrinthine movement is a genuine spectacle as your eyes move along the white gold corridors and cascade down the many layers as though they are under someone else's control.

&nbsp;

<img alt="Wristcheck" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="d8bf7eb6-9753-4887-a4aa-41a769e7ad26" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/74/DSCF4277WM.jpg" width="1568" />

&nbsp;

Between the variety of colours on display — from the pink gold hands and balance wheel, the multi-toned white gold bridges and steel gears, to the ruby jewels and the tourbillon's hypnotic movement — this timepiece is genuinely enchanting, and I could look at it all day.&nbsp;

Additionally, it also features a small dial in the form of a slate grey lacquered inner bezel that provides minute markings and aesthetically links the variety of greys found in the movement to the external watch design.

&nbsp;

<img alt="Wristcheck" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="66d4a90c-59e4-4113-8ca6-2d6af8d7798c" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/74/DSCF4402WM.jpg" width="1568" />

&nbsp;

Flipping the watch over, we see the reverse side of the cal. 2948 through the ref. 26600CR's sapphire crystal exhibition caseback — and it looks even better this way, at least in my books. From the rear, we see the incredible attention to detail AP paid regarding the movement's underlying architecture and how the bridges all work together to suspend the cal. 2948 within the Code 11.59's incredible case like a spiderweb of 18ct white gold. It's quite the sight, and I'm glad AP decided to keep the watch a manual wind.&nbsp;

<h3>&nbsp;</h3>

<h3>Final Impression</h3>

All in all, I must say that I am becoming ever-more bullish on the Code 11.59's future. While some of the early models didn't pique my interest that much, I've always thought there was potential in the design, and the last few releases have demonstrated that there is. And honestly, I would say this is the best addition to the collection yet.

&nbsp;

<img alt="Wristcheck" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="559838fc-128e-4108-adcd-34fa1aa9866c" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/74/DSCF4359WM.jpg" width="1568" />

&nbsp;

With its grey rubber strap matching the overall design perfectly, I can only tell the truth and say that this is one of the most visually complete and comprehensive releases from AP in a long time. Sure, some of the minor grievances that have always existed in the collection remain, but I'm finding it easier and easier to overlook them as I get more used to them, and more impressed by what AP has made of this collection in such a short period of time.&nbsp;

&nbsp;

<hr />
<h3>&nbsp;</h3>

<h3>Specifications</h3>

Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Tourbillon Openworked 
Reference number: 26600CR.OO.D009KB.01 
Diameter: 41mm 
Material: 18-carat white gold bezel, lugs, push-pieces and crown, 18-carat pink gold middle case 
Crystal: Double curved glare-proofed sapphire crystal 
Water-resistance: 30m

Movement: Calibre 2948 
Functions: Tourbillon, hours and minutes. 
Winding: Hand-wound&nbsp; 
Frequency: 3 Hz (21,600 vibrations/hour) 
Power reserve: 72 hours&nbsp; 
Strap: Slate grey rubber-coated strap with 18-carat white gold AP folding clasp

Price: Approx CHF 189,400 / HKD 1,590,000

<a href="https://www.audemarspiguet.com/com/en/watch-collection/code-1159/26600CR.OO.D009KB.01.html">For more, visit Audemars Piguet online.</a>