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All articles featuring the Calatrava

Calatrava

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A modern take on a classic icon. Today, we deep-dive into one of Patek Philippe's latest special editions, the Calatrava ref. 6007A
<h3>&nbsp;</h3>

<h3>The Calatrava's History&nbsp;</h3>

The Patek Philippe Calatrava has a long and storied past. Debuting in 1932, as the ref. 96, the Calatrava would go on to become the archetypal dress watch. Fitted with a svelte 31mm case, the Calatrava was born from the shadows of the dwindling Art Deco period that had preceded it, and has remained true to its original aesthetics ever since.

Previous to the Calatrava, dress watches had elaborate numerals, detailed case designs and shapely hands. Instead of these, the Calatrava ref. 96 rose from the Art Deco period with a laser-like focus on just telling the time in as clean and practical of a way as possible, free from such flourishes.&nbsp;

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<img alt="Wristcheck" data-caption="The Patek Philippe Calatrava ref.&amp;nbsp;5153J-001 in 18k yellow gold" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="73e9b036-72f5-4df5-92e8-29257bb0d306" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/75/DSCF7680WM.jpg" width="1568" />
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This translated into a simple and understated design language. Reminiscent of the Bauhaus style that was at its peak during the '30s, function and utility were the most critical aspects of the Calatrava's design. However, this has since changed in modern times as the Calatrava collection has grown to include some models that feature travel time complications or some stylistic choices that break the Bauhaus-esque mould that the Calatrava was so closely associated with.&nbsp;

&nbsp;

<h3>Why the ref. 6007A was released</h3>

Launched in 2020 as a limited edition of 1000 pieces to celebrate the opening of Patek Philippe's new 10-floor $600m manufacturing facility in Plan-les-Ouates, Geneve, the Calatrava 6007A-001 marks the evolution of the Calatrava's design language while also marking Patek Philippe's evolution as a watchmaker.

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In 1996, Philippe Stern created an initiative to move every aspect of the watchmaking process in-house. As was the case for most watchmaking brands until the '90s, many stages along the supply chain were outsourced, and Patek Philippe was no different.&nbsp;

Various suppliers, manufacturers, and specialists would provide their services to numerous brands, including Patek. For centuries this system worked, but it wasn't good enough for Patek Philippe. It was fraught with inefficiencies and meant Patek had to rely on the work of others to be at their impeccable standards.

Mr Stern, in a clear bid to increase efficiency, monitor standards and improve manufacturing and design processes, decided moving everything in-house was better. Not everyone agreed, but eventually, in 2015, Patek broke ground on what is now their state-of-the-art facility that houses everything a watchmaking brand could ever dream of needing.&nbsp;

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<img alt="Wristcheck" data-caption="Patek Philippe's manufacture&amp;nbsp;in Plan-les-Ouates, Geneva &lt;em&gt;(Image: Patek Philippe)&lt;/em&gt;" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="4521f488-ff1a-4526-afea-62bfebe2a874" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/75/Patek%2520Manufacture.jpg" width="1568" />
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The ref. 6007A celebrates this step forward in Patek's lineage, as it is too a step forward for the Calatrava. Breaking free from the constraints of traditional values and nostalgic methodologies, the ref. 6007A is unlike what was before it, just as Patek's latest facility is unlike anywhere the brand has operated from.&nbsp;

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&nbsp;

<h3>&nbsp;Is This The Calatrava of Tomorrow?</h3>

When the Patek ref. 5212A Calatrava Weekly Calendar was released featuring an intricate dial and steel case, it was touted as the future of the Calatrava collection, and it looks like that was the truth. The ref. 6007A exists as a kind of a mix between the ref. 5212A and the ref. 6006G, another interestingly-designed Calatrava model.

Aside from their similarly-shaped steel cases, these three models also share relatively comparable dials. Perhaps by chance, the ref 6007A's dial features several concentric circles that break the dial into sections, just like the ref. 5212A. On the other hand, the ref. 5212A's dial is also split into sections, albeit as a functional decision. Nonetheless, the similarities are there all the same.

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<img alt="Wristcheck" data-caption="The Patek Philippe Calatrava Weekly Calendar ref. 5212A&amp;nbsp;" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="d9bb89a1-647a-4019-9820-ce44f60a9e3d" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/75/593A0163_0.jpg" width="1568" /><img alt="Wristcheck" data-caption="The Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 6006G (Photo: Horoguides)" data-entity-type="file" data-entity-uuid="e9a5266c-875a-4e81-9055-49bc2bbd5fa3" data-image-style="blog_inline_image" height="1046" src="https://wc-strapi.s3.ap-east-1.amazonaws.com/article_import/images/75/20180129110930.jpg" width="1568" />
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This raises the question of whether or not this detail-oriented design language is here to stay for the Calatrava. Sure, the ref. 6007A is a special edition, but it is worth thinking about. A modern Calatrava would fit right in if it were transported back in time on the wrist of a time traveller, so perhaps Patek wants to release some modern variants and bring it into the 21st century. It certainly looks that way, I think.

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<h3>Complex Dial Design&nbsp;</h3>

Similarities with the ref. 5212A and 6006G squared away, the ref. 6007A is a stunning watch in its own right with a gorgeous blue dial that proudly claims your interest. Featuring the concentric circles I previously mentioned, the dial is broken up by the various finishes within.&nbsp;

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Starting with the dial periphery, we have a white minute track sitting atop a vertical satin finish that merges with a concentric satin finish that houses the radially-positioned luminous Arabic numerals. Closer to the dial's centre again, we have a deeper concentric engraving that houses a second minute scale. Obsolete in design, this is where the dial breaks free from the old design constraints of the Calatrava and where the most obvious links to the ref. 6006G's dial are made apparent.&nbsp;

A step further in again, we reach the dial's centrepiece. Described by Patek as "carbon style", this guilloche engraving resembles a basket weave pattern whereby a chequered pattern is created by squares of opposing vertical and horizontal lines.&nbsp;

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Found on the dials of the refs. 5208T and 5004T, both made specifically for the Only Watch charity auction; this pattern is the ref. 6007A's secret sauce. Proudly declaring its position as a limited-edition timepiece, this pattern acts as a subtle brag. Unknown to most, this choice of dial decoration ties in nicely with the ref. 6007A's steel case. Again, modest on the surface, all the while, it claims the attention of all Patek collectors.&nbsp;

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<h3>The Movement</h3>

Powered by Patek's cal. 324 S C, a beloved and longstanding reliable movement that has seen gradual upgrades over the years, the ref. 6007A is as you would expect a Patek to be at this price range. Finished beautifully and on view behind a sapphire crystal caseback, the ref. 6007A proudly displays its anglage, polished countersinks and 21kt gold winding rotor.&nbsp;

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With the ref. 6007A's exhibition caseback containing commemorative writing, our view of the movement is somewhat interrupted — which can be overlooked. It might have been better to inscribe the commemorative text along the caseback's steel border, however.&nbsp;

 
&nbsp;

<h3>Overall Impressions</h3>

Fitted on a blue calfskin leather strap with an embossed woven pattern on its exterior, the ref. 6007A is a gorgeously put together package. Wearable as an understated daily piece while also packing the subtle flourishes of a special edition, the Calatrava ref. 6007A feels like a nicely balanced watch that understands its role as a stepping stone for future references while also celebrating a monumental moment in Patek's history.

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<h3>Specifications&nbsp;</h3>

Patek Philippe Calatrava

Reference number: 6007A 
Diameter: 40mm 
Case material: Stainless steel 
Crystal: Sapphire 
Water-resistance: 30m

Movement:&nbsp;Calibre&nbsp;324 S C 
Functions: Hours, Minutes, Seconds, Date 
Winding: Self-winding 
Frequency: 4 Hz/ 28,800 vph 
Power reserve:&nbsp;Max. 45&nbsp;hours&nbsp; 
Strap: Blue-grey embossed&nbsp;calfskin

This watch is available on <a href="https://wristcheck.com/buy/patek-philippe/patek-philippe-calatrava-w00013hofpp000">Wristcheck</a>.

The Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 6007A

A casual take on Patek's most historically significant family of dress watches, the Calatrava Weekly Calendar is a stunning piece full of technical innovation and understated luxury. Fun in its design, wearable and remarkably legible – it's got it all
&nbsp;

Immediately recognisable within the world of watchmaking as the ultimate dress watch, the Patek Philippe Calatrava epitomises just about everything that makes Patek as highly revered a watchmaker as they are. Historically significant, with a consistent design language and an abundance of personality, the Calatrava serves as the perfect vehicle for Patek Philippe's horological innovations. With that, it is no surprise that Patek chose the Calatrava to equip with the new movement and dial design that features in their 2019 release, the Calatrava Weekly Calendar ref. 5212A.

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<h3>&nbsp;</h3>

<h3>The Calatrava as a design icon</h3>

Named after the 12th century Calatrava Knights from Spain and Portugal, the Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 96 was released in 1932 as an understated and elegant timepiece that would bolster Patek Philippe's dwindling finances. Duo Jean and Charles Henri Stern had just bought Patek Philippe, and the brand required saving. The pair decided that a watch with universal appeal was their best bet, and so, the Calatrava ref. 96 with its gentle aesthetics was created.&nbsp;

Designed and released during the tail end of the Art Deco period, the Calatrava's stylish design was heavily influenced by the Bauhaus movement, whereby form followed function. Early Calatrava variants abided by this design language as their understated aesthetics flew in the face of any exuberance one may have expected a high-end watchmaker to include in their timepiece. This clean, stripped back, and utilitarian aesthetic has become one of the Calatrava's most defining features, even though some modern Calatrava collections seem to deviate from this principle in more ways than one.&nbsp;

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The Calatrava Weekly Calendar ref. 5212A, somewhat paradoxically, breaks from the Calatrava's utilitarian and straightforward aesthetic, thanks to its moderately busy display, while maintaining legibility and a design that lacks overzealous exuberance. This balance is one that only a brand with Patek Philippe's design credentials and historical significance could achieve, for the Calatrava Weekly Calendar ref. 5212A is not an entirely new design; rather, its design has been taken from an older model and updated for modern tastes and engineering.

<h3>&nbsp;</h3>

<h3>Design Inspiration</h3>

Taking inspiration from a design in one's archives is always a sure-fire way to ensure your timepiece is rooted in your brand's DNA -- at the same time, however, Patek are more than capable of branching out into unchartered territory. The Calatrava Weekly Calendar ref. 5212A is indeed inspired by the 1955 Patek Philippe ref. 2512: a one-of-a-kind piece, the ref. 2512 was a yellow gold 46mm time-only behemoth. Incredibly unique for its time, the ref. 2512 never became a production piece, but the Calatrava Weekly Calendar ref. 5212A took its design and ran with it.&nbsp;

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As I've mentioned, the ref. 2512 was a time-only watch, so its mechanics indeed weren't the Calatrava Weekly Calendar ref. 5212A's inspiration. It did, however, take its aesthetic inspiration from its case design. While the Calatrava Weekly Calendar ref. 5212A is a much more wearable 40mm in diameter; it features the ref. 2512's two-tiered case and lug design, adding a level of sophistication and elegance to its form. A simple round case with gently angled lugs, the Calatrava Weekly Calendar ref. 5212A would look completely different without this extra detail.&nbsp;

Furthermore, the Calatrava Weekly Calendar ref. 5212A is not made of yellow gold – or any precious metal for that matter – rather, it is made of steel. A rarity amongst the Calatrava collection, this steel construction links to the Calatrava Weekly Calendar ref. 5212A's philosophy as a "useful complication."

With a 40mm x 10.8mm thick steel case, the Calatrava Weekly Calendar ref. 5212A can indeed act as an everyday watch with features that you might use on a daily basis, particularly if your industry uses the week number often, like in finance, supply chain management and so on. Patek's train of thought here might be to fill the gap left behind by their inability to meet the demand for their other steel watches, like the Nautilus and Aquanaut.&nbsp;

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<h3>&nbsp;</h3>

<h3>Display Layout</h3>

In keeping with this 'everyday' kind of laidback design, the Weekly Calendar ref. 5212A also features a silver opaline dial with a ‘handwritten’ style of font in black. Removed from the picture-perfect font you might expect, the Weekly Calendar ref. 5212A's font is ‘imperfect’ as letters appear ever-so-slightly asymmetrical and imbalanced -- which, in fact, pays homage to one of the designer's handwriting.&nbsp;

Of course, the Weekly Calendar ref. 5212A's dial remains astute in its legibility. While the font lends a relaxed tone to this timepiece's design, it detracts nothing in the way of clarity. Featuring five hands, all emanating from the dial's centre, the Weekly Calendar ref. 5212A remains wholly practical – something I feel is an achievement in and of itself.&nbsp;

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Reading the hours, minutes and seconds as you would expect with traditional hands and the date via the standard aperture at 3 o'clock, the Weekly Calendar ref. 5212A's ingenious design reveals itself through the two thin hands with red perpendicular tips. With the shorter of the two hands pointing to the day of the week display found within the hour markers, and the longer of the two pointing to the week of the year found along the dial's periphery, the Weekly Calendar ref. 5212A's display remains abundantly clear. Not that I am intentionally harping on about this, but I feel the Weekly Calendar ref. 5212A's display should be much harder to read than it is, but Patek have truly outdone themselves here.

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Interestingly, the week of the year display also corresponds to the month display found along the dial's extreme periphery. Going the extra mile and ensuring no stone is left unturned, Patek referenced ISO 8601 and deduced that the Weekly Calendar ref. 5212A required 53 weeks along its dial so that every 5 to 6 years, when 53-week years occur, the Weekly Calendar ref. 5212A could handle it.

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<h3>&nbsp;</h3>

<h3>Movement</h3>

Of course, when releasing a new watch like the Weekly Calendar ref. 5212A, brands will typically like to showcase a new movement, which is precisely what Patek did with this timepiece. Featuring four new patents, the new cal. 26 330 S C J SE is an automatic movement on display behind a snap-on sapphire crystal case back. It boasts 45-hours of power reserve, a unidirectional 21ct yellow gold winding rotor (itself featuring a new shape to distinguish it from other movements) and a plethora of gorgeous finishing techniques, as one may expect from Patek.

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As always with Patek, this movement also features some market-leading innovations such as the new anti-backlash wheel that saves energy expenditure and increases the movement's reliability. In addition, it also features a hack-seconds function so that the time can be accurately set. Not exactly a new feature for any brand, it is still a nice modern creature comfort for wearers to have.

<h3>&nbsp;</h3>

<h3>Quick Take</h3>

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An elegant, casual and ultimately functional interpretation of one of Patek Philippe's most legendary collections, the Calatrava Weekly Calendar ref. 5212A adds a new and wonderfully innovative movement to Patek's repertoire with the sophisticated design and impeccable craftsmanship that we have come to expect of the legendary Genevan giants.

<h3>&nbsp;</h3>

<h3>Specifications</h3>

Patek Philippe Calatrava Weekly Calendar&nbsp;

Reference number: Ref. 5212A-001 
Case size: 40mm 
Thickness: 10.8mm 
Material: Stainless Steel 
Crystal: Sapphire Crystal 
Water-resistance: 30m 
Movement: Cal. 26 330 S C J SE 
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, day, week of year/month 
Winding: Automatic 
Frequency: 28,800 bph (4Hz) 
Power reserve: 45 hours 
Strap:&nbsp;Light brown hand-stitched calfskin leather with a prong buckle

For further information, visit <a href="https://www.patek.com/en/collection/complications/5212A-001">Patek Philippe&nbsp;online</a>.

This watch is available on <a href="https://wristcheck.com/buy/patek-philippe/calatrava-weekly-calendar-w00099lukpp000">Wristcheck</a>.

 
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The Patek Philippe Calatrava Weekly Calendar Ref. 5212A-001

We explore a rather unusual take on one of the most conservative icons within watchmaking. How does the Calatrava ref. 5088P play out? 
&nbsp;

Within every brand, there lies a group of aesthetic codes that are based on the foundations of particular collections. For a brand like Patek Philippe, their sports pieces are based on the Nautilus, and their dress watches are based on the Calatrava. While Patek has continuously expanded the Calatrava collection over the last few years, the ref. 5088P is, in my opinion, one of the strangest – and not in a bad way. I appreciate when a brand explores creative freedoms that exist beyond the realm of the ordinary, and I feel the Calatrava ref. 5088 does precisely that with utter class and decorum.&nbsp;

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<h3>Calatrava – An Historic Icon</h3>

I've said it before, but the word 'Icon' is often thrown around in the watchmaking industry as though it doesn't mean anything, but few watches deserve the title like the Calatrava does. A core piece in Patek Philippe's arsenal, the Calatrava is the prototypical dress watch par excellence. Say what you will about its style; it might not be up your street, but you have to admit that it has been profoundly crucial for Patek through the years, and as such, is an iconic piece given their standing as one of the finest watchmakers ever to grace the industry.

Released in 1932 and named after the cross paraded by the Calatrava Knights from 12th century Spain and Portugal, the Calatrava ref. 96 was released as a simple timepiece with broad appeal that would help secure Patek Philippe's finances after Jean and Charles Henri Stern bought a controlling interest in the brand in the same year.

Born from the shadows of the dwindling art deco period that had preceded it and designed with a remarkably Bauhaus-inspired aesthetic in mind, the original Calatrava models used simplicity as their means of establishing intrigue around the craftsmanship that went into building them. Without the exuberance of complications or a busy design, collectors gravitated towards the Calatrava's clean aesthetic and practicality. Today, the collection has evolved into several mini-collections that all remain under its broader umbrella.&nbsp;

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<h3>Starters Before the Main Course</h3>

Before delving into what is quite clearly the most notable aspect of the ref. 5088, I would like to examine its construction. Entirely made of platinum, the ref. 5088 features an extra-thin and round 38mm case with soft lines that flow gently from lug to lug around the case. Bringing a hint of flash to its construction, the ref. 5088 features some beautiful engraving work that covers the entirety of its mid-case and lugs. A bright piece thanks to its shiny black alligator leather strap, the ref. 5088's polished surfaces catch the light in much the same way as its strap, providing visual continuity that only the main course breaks.&nbsp;

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An understated case by design, the ref. 5088's case retains most of the minimalist Bauhaus-inspired aesthetic that has remained a lynchpin of the Calatrava collection since time immemorial. I would also venture to say that its case also serves as a wonderful appetiser that whets the palette before you dive into the bulk of the meal. Like a chef tingling your taste buds with flavours you didn't even know you liked, the case engravings serve as the perfect companion for the ref. 5088's most vital asset, its dial.

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<h3>The Special Dial is Quite the Feast</h3>

I do apologise for the analogy that I am drawing here, but the ref. 5088's dial is such a feast for the eyes that I just can't help myself. Made from black enamel with Volutes and Arabesque decoration set in 18ct white gold, it is ultimately what makes the ref. 5088 so special, thanks to its intricate design and incredibly intricate construction.

Showcasing two of Patek Philippe's métiers d'art; enamelling and engraving, the ref. 5088 is rather appropriately a piece of Patek's Rare Handcrafts Collection whereby the brand's artisans exercise the skills they couldn't in mainstream timepieces. Using Champlevé enamelling techniques, the dial is hand-engraved from a solid piece of 18ct white gold before the enameller fills the remaining voids with black enamel to complete this piece of pure artisanal excellence. It is no coincidence either, the black enamel takes on a shiny appearance, just like the polished platinum case and black strap, completing the trifecta and feeding the ref. 5088’s glamorous execution.

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Featuring stunning Volutes and arabesque-style scrollwork, the ref. 5088's engraved pattern features rhythmic linear patterns adorned with foliage and leaves that wrap and twist in and out of one another. A dancing display of intricacy, I have to admit the effect is rather breathtaking, even if it might not be my style. With the detail involved in the dial and case's engravings, it is no surprise the dial and case take 30 hours to complete. After all, perfection can't be rushed, and Patek chase perfection.&nbsp;

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<h3>The Dessert is Important too</h3>

To enhance the elegance of the Calatrava ref. 5088, it is fitted with the ultra-slim, self-winding cal. 240. Enabling the timepiece to retain an exceptionally thin 8.3mm case, the movement serves as the unsung hero of the ref. 5088, as without it, it would lack the elegance derived from its thin case.

Proudly on display behind a sapphire crystal caseback, the cal. 240 movement reveals itself as a stunningly finished piece of engineering complete with immaculate anglage, a 22kt gold micro-rotor and a litany of other finishing techniques that combine to ensure the ref. 5088's movement is as appropriately beautiful as its dial and case. Serving as this meal's final course, the movement is breathtaking and only adds to what is otherwise a perfect watch.

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<h3>Quick Take</h3>

A timelessly elegant design with a rather heavy splash of eccentricity and extravagance, the Patek Philippe Ref. 5088P is worthy of its distinguished Calatrava heritage. Breaking from the Calatrava collection's conservative mould, the ref. 5088 establishes itself as one of the rarest models within the collection while also being one of the most desirable thanks to its unrivalled design and stunning execution.

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<h3>Specifications</h3>

Patek Philippe Calatrava Volutes and Arabesques

Reference number: 5088/100P-001 
Case size: &nbsp;38MM 
Thickness: 8.3mm 
Material: Platinum 
Crystal: Sapphire Crystal 
Water-resistance: 30m 
Movement: Caliber 240 
Functions: Hours, Minutes 
Winding: Automatic 
Frequency: 21,600 bph 
Power reserve: 48 hours 
Strap: Black Alligator Leather with hand engraved prong buckle

The Patek Philippe Calatrava 5088/100P-001 is available on <a href="https://wristcheck.com/buy/patek-philippe/calatrava-w00101lukpp000-0">Wristcheck</a>.

For further information, visit <a href="https://www.patek.com/en/collection/calatrava/5088-100P-001">Patek Philippe</a>.