How To Style Gold Watches

Let’s address the big, shiny elephant in the room – gold watches are not the easiest timepieces to style. For many watch and fashion enthusiasts alike, gold watches can be a little bit of a head-scratcher when it comes to pulling them off in a tasteful way. For lack of a better way to put it, the solid gold category has a knack for coming across as a bit garish. However, thanks to a rise in popularity for the gold varieties amongst fashion mainstays such as Fear of God’s Jerry Lorenzo (who is frequently seen sporting a yellow gold Rolex Day-Date) and Kendall Jenner (lensed with a yellow gold Cartier Baignoire earlier this year), it seems like there is a case to be made for gold watches within the sartorial realm.

When it comes to wearing gold watches, balance is key. Make no mistake, when you’re choosing to wear a gold watch, you are looking to make a statement. They are bold and they should be worn with confidence. With the watch itself already being a vehicle of expression on its own, there isn’t much room to go half-way—these striking timepieces should be balanced with an understated outfit or complemented with an equally audacious look. Either way, gold watches are a worthy investment piece for minimalists and maximalists alike. Read on to see our breakdown of how you can style your classic gold timepieces or even how you can add a gold watch into your collection based on your current stylistic leanings. 

Small Watch, Big Drip

Fellow Wristcheck writer Randy Lai published an article earlier this year titled, “Small Watch, Big Drip” and the term has stayed rent-free in my mind ever since. There has undoubtedly been a resurgence in recent years for the “ladies watch” size amongst horological fans, regardless of gender. It seems that despite a consistent popularity of burly sports watches (40mm and upwards) in past years, there has been a marked partiality towards smaller timepieces as of late. Although it is a fashion statement on its own, this renaissance also taps into dialogues around gender identity and traditional perceptions of gender binaries, which I am definitely here for.

Thanks to pop culture icons such as Bad Bunny, Timothée Chalamet and Tyler, The Creator, delicate timepieces have become a norm within their wardrobes and watch lovers have undeniably taken notice. When it comes to sartorial notes, the key takeaway is that typical notions of “men’s watches” and “ladies’ watches” are no longer relevant. For gold watches, especially when size doesn’t matter (pun not intended), the world of possibilities becomes infinitely greater. With “Small Watch, Big Drip” in mind, all-gold watches such as the Rolex Datejust 26 or the small model of the Panthère de Cartier are dainty iterations of timeless models with styling ranges that are virtually endless.

With a more delicate gold watch, you can be more daring with your outfit—think vibrant colors, bold patterns, plenty of layers. With these looks, the watch becomes a complementary piece rather than a focal point that eyes automatically hone in on, which can often be the case with larger gold watches. Smaller refined watches are, in general, much more versatile so they are paired equally well with monochrome looks and subdued styling choices.

If you’re struggling to choose which watch is the best fit for you, a good approach is to consider the watch as more of a jewelry piece. Select a bracelet that speaks to you—if you prefer something sleek, perhaps the Cartier Baignoire with a yellow gold 750/1000 rigid bracelet, or if you favor something more ornate, many vintage models arrive in a multitude of unique designs, such as the Patek Philippe Neptune (27mm). Whichever aesthetic you choose, it’s safe to say that a delicate gold watch is a truly adaptable timepiece for your collection and is sure to be a sound sartorial investment.

Go Big, Or Go Home

Big, gold sports watches—this is where it gets a little hairy. One must tread carefully on this fine line so that you don’t come across as a character that stepped out of a Grand Theft Auto game. That being said, however, if you’re going to don a gold watch with a traditionally larger case, there’s a way to wear this without it coming off gaudy and the keyword here is: balance. With such an extravagant timepiece, pairing it with monochromatic, minimal wardrobe items is a tasteful way to balance the boldness of the watch. 

When I picture the personification of this aesthetic, the individual that comes to mind is Fear of God’s Jerry Lorenzo. If you’re unfamiliar, the designer’s clothing brand is known for its sleek, timeless wardrobe staples that highlight an impeccable balance of streetwear and tailored pieces, an embodiment of contemporary culture. Lorenzo himself is often seen sporting a yellow gold Rolex Day-Date – his particular model has a fluted bezel and a President bracelet (I love this similar Rolex Day-Date 36 Yellow Gold Diamond Stella Dial piece with a rich burgundy dial). As mirrored in Fear of God’s own collections, the founder-cum-creative director is often seen wearing muted color tones and tailored items complemented by more relaxed pieces such as hoodies, sweatpants or denim jackets. Although many of the individual pieces themselves are understated, together they create an effortlessly sleek look that is perfect for rounding off with a truly statement-making timepiece.

Along the same vein, I feel nothing but reverence for Matthew Williams’ perfectly executed “IYKYK” look by wearing a 1017 ALYX 9SM x Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph on his 032c cover with just a simple white tee. You absolutely cannot go wrong with pairing your most osentatious watch with a simple T-shirt and jeans. There is nothing quiet about this type of luxury, but rather more so a case of leaning into the polarity of letting a great timepiece speak for you instead of your fashion. Do I have a real-life anecdote of seeing Tom Holland wearing a gold watch? No. But I can imagine him throwing on a hoodie and jeans, putting on Zendaya’s Patek Phillipe Ladies Automatic Nautilus and swinging by the bodega down the block.

To get this look, invest in a classic watch such as a Rolex Sky-Dweller Yellow Gold Champagne Dial or a Rolex GMT-Master II Yellow Gold Black Dial. For something more off the beaten path, you may want to opt for a Tudor Black Bay Bronze 58 Brown Dial. To get Matthew Williams’ look, pair your favorite white tee with this Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph Rose Gold Brown Dial.

Meet You in the Middle: Rose Gold

If you’re not completely sold on a yellow gold watch, you may perhaps consider opting for a rose gold watch instead. By selecting a model with a minimal design on the dial and less complications, you are sure to channel a certain je ne sais quoi that can only be obtained with a rose-tinted timepiece. These sorts of designs, in my mind, ooze a class of chic refinement that is difficult to acquire with yellow gold. If you’d still like to get the impact of a gold watch but want to imbue a tinge of contemporary refinement to your wrist, rose gold is perhaps the road less traveled here but will certainly set you apart from other collectors.

For a touch of opulence, pair this Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Rose Gold Black Dial or this Bulgari Finissimo Rose Gold Brown Dial watch with an all-black outfit—this watch works hard so you don’t have to, perfectly suited for both casual and formal occasions. If you want a watch with a stronger rose tint, you may want to opt for the Rolex Day-Date 40 Rose Gold Eisenkiesel Dial. I find that Rolex’s rose gold watches are a little too pink for my liking, but if you are partial to a bit more color in your watch, this is a great selection.

At the end of the day, however, whether you’re selecting a smaller vintage watch, a bolder yellow gold watch, or a more pared-back rose gold watch, these precious metal timepieces are a worthy investment and should not be something that one shies away from. Yes, all-gold watches may have a reputation for being “flashy,” but sometimes isn’t that the point? A statement piece is all about balance and allows space for a different sort of self-expression. In the words of Austin Powers’ Goldmember, “I love gooooooold.” And you should too.