Rolex Submariner Two-Tone ref. 126613LB “Bluesy” & 126613LN

The Origins

Debuting in 1953 and released to the public the following year, the Rolex Submariner has undoubtedly become one of the most iconic timepieces of all time. Used extensively by the armies like the British Royal Navy and professional diving companies like COMEX, the Submariner set the bar for nearly every dive watch that followed due to its incredibly robust and timeless design. Today, its popularity knows no bounds as it continues to reign supreme as one of the most iconic watches on the planet, and perhaps one of the most sought-after and in-demand stainless steel sports watches you can get your hands on. Of course, with over 70 years under its belt, the Submariner has undergone a long and storied evolution, but the references that we have today epitomises the model’s modern evolution into one of the most hyped watches in the industry. 

Released in September of 2020, the new Rolex Submariner collection included two new two-tone references that joined the three stainless steel references that were also debuted in the same time. Immensely popular amongst those who appreciate the combination of gold and steel, both of these watches command cult-like followings, so let’s dive in.

The Case and Dial

Boasting the same Maxi-dial as always, the ref. 126613 in both of its forms retained the Submariner’s iconic display with its circular 18k white gold applied indices and 18k white gold hands. However, while their dial designs are the same, one large difference between the two references, as you can immediately see, the ref. 126613LB “Bluesy” boasts a blue dial and bezel combination, whereas the ref. 126613LN boasts a black-on-black combo. Both mainstays in the Submariner collection since their debut in 1984, the two-tone Submariner has always offered collectors with a choice of the more subdued variant, and the more colourful variant that goes with the bright nature of its 18k yellow gold parts like its bezel ring, winding crown and bracelet center links. 

Additionally, another change that the new Submariner introduced to the collection was a new hour hand with a broader base, thus enlarging its presence and giving Rolex more room to apply their signature Chromalight lume. This broadened hour hand subtly suggests the range of changes that the new Submariner collection ushered in when compared to the old references. Beginning with the case, the new collection features a 41mm diameter case, 1mm larger than the outgoing references’ 40mm case. In addition, the bracelet has been widened so the lug distance is 21mm instead of 20mm, giving the watch a more balance stance on the wrist. However, Rolex understood the importance of refining the Submariner’s shape, and so the new collection features more elegant and shapely lugs that ditch the previous collection’s boxier design and are more reminiscent of the five-digit Submariner’s lugs. As a result, the new 41mm Submariner collection wears with a more balanced presence on the wrist that is rather sleek and elegant.

The Movement

As with any ref. 12xxxx model from Rolex, the new Submariner collection features the latest generation of movement that Rolex has to offer, the automatic cal. 3230 in the ref. 124060 and the cal. 3235 in the dated models like the ref. 126613LB and 126613LN. Boasting an impressive power reserve of 70 hours, these two movements also include Rolex’s Parachrom Hairspring, Paraflex Shock Absorbers and a Chronergy Escapement with Optimized Energy Efficiency, all of which makes them both truly robust and capable movements that are equipped for just about everything you can throw at it.

1980s Nostalgia

Boasting their two-tone constructions and popular blue or black dial and bezel options, the two 126613 references are perhaps two of the most nostalgia-affected Rolex models you can buy. Emulating the 1980s’ style, these two watches have managed to recover from their slump in popularity throughout the 2000s thanks to the growing appreciation that watch collectors have for watches from the 1970s and 1980s. As a result, they have managed to maintain their popularity, even since the watch market’s decline began taking effect in Q2 of 2022.

Market Performance

In keeping with the Submariner’s generally favorable market performance, the collection’s two two-tone references have performed rather well since their debut in 2020. Both hitting values of around $23000 during the market’s peak in early 2022, both variants once commanded 50% price premiums over their $15600 MSRPs. However, this is no longer the case as they command market values of $15800 for the “Bluesy” ref. 126613LB and $18700 for the ref. 126613LN, which translate to price premiums of 1% and 20% respectively. 

While the “Bluesy” ref. 126613LB’s lower market value might be a surprise given that it certainly seems that it is more sought-after than its blacked-out sibling, it is important to consider that the ref. 126613LN is not produced in the same quantity as the ref. 126613LB, thus increasing the supply of the “Bluesy” on the market. In general, there are about twice as many examples of the ref. 126613LB on the market than the ref. 126613LN, and so any drop in demand will have a larger relative impact on the price of the “Bluesy.” 

Check out the live performance of Rolex Submariner Two-Tone ref. 126613LB “Bluesy” & 126613LN on The Wristcheck Index