Highlights From Watches & Wonders 2024

Step right up, folks! We are back from the biggest watch spectacle on the annual calendar. Did it outshine last year's extravaganza? Well, we're not throwing confetti just yet, but hold onto your hats because there were some 'Wonders' worth a shoutout. Not content with just one hall, the Palexpo center added another one this year, boosting the exhibitor space by 12,000sqm and the number of brands rising from 48 to 54. We saw a few timepieces break world records and some playful creations from fashion-forward brands that brought a smile to our faces. But were there any heart-stopping, breath-stealing innovations that had us gasping for air? Well, let's just say the novelty meter didn't quite hit the stratosphere this time around. 

Nevertheless, here’s a recap of our favorite releases, trends and takeaways from Watches & Wonders 2024.

Meet The New Record-Breakers

Last week, Piaget, Bulgari and Vacheron Constantin made the headlines at Watches and Wonders by dishing out the world's thinnest tourbillon, the overall thinnest mechanical watch and the most complicated timepiece ever. While Piaget made a remarkable move with its new Altiplano, showcasing the thinnest (just 2mm) tourbillon worldwide, Bulgari clinched the win with the new Octo Finissimo Ultra – a visual marvel, almost vanishing when viewed from the side. At just 1.7 millimeters thick, it's thinner than a blade of grass yet maintains exceptional timekeeping precision.

Meanwhile, Vacheron Constantin has shattered its own record for the most complicated timepiece by unveiling the “Berkley Grand Complication,”  custom-made for W. R. Berkley, the billionaire behind the W. R. Berkley Corporation insurance giant and Chair of New York University's Board of Trustees. Already the proud owner of the Vacheron Constantin 57260, Mr Berkely now owns the world's top two most intricate timepieces.Made over 11 years by Vacheron Constantin’s three master watchmakers at the Les Cabinotiers, the Berkley Grand Complication was in the works even before the completion of the 57260. Nothing short of a museum piece, both in its aesthetics and functionality, the Berkeley Grand Complication measures 90.8mm in diameter and 50.55mm thick—quite unconventional for a"pocket" watch!

Trends & Takeaways

This year is shaping up to be a showstopper for the ladies! Everyone from the big-time haute horlogerie houses to our favorite fashion brands is diving headfirst into the fabulous world of female wristwear. Get ready for the rise of gender-neutral dials in that sweet spot of 36mm – it's going to be the talk of the town!
From Hermes's funky new Cut collection with a winding crown between one and two o’clock  that's breaking all the rules, to Hublot's petite yet powerful 29mm Classic Fusion, and let's not forget Patek's stunning Twenty-4 with a splash of purple or Cartier's absolutely adorable Tank Mini – there's something for every wrist and every style. But hold onto your pearls, because Vacheron Constantin is turning heads by diving into their treasure trove of archives and pulling out the Kallista, a diamond-studded masterpiece from 1979. Back then, it was the talk of the town as the world's priciest watch, and now it's paving the way for a whole new tradition of jaw-dropping jewelry watches at Vacheron. Say hello to the Grand Lady Kalla – the latest, shiniest, and most dazzling addition to the scene!

Believe it or not, it’s going to be a quieter year for most brands focussing mainly on  super high ticket watches priced at $100k plus. Be it the uber complicated Duometres from Jaeger-LeCoultre, TAG Heuer’s Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph (priced at a whopping $180k) or Lange’s  splendid Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold “Lumen” priced at $620,000. A tribute to the 25th anniversary of the Datograph, this watch marks the sixth "Lumen" release from the brand since 2010 and the 14th Lange crafted in Honeygold but the price, we believe, is heartbreakingly high.

Jaeger-LeCoultre’s line-up on the other hand included  some truly intricate timepieces, with the highlight  being the Duometre Heliotourbillon Perpetual. Sporting the brand's patented Duometre system, introduced back in 2007, it boasts two separate barrels and gear trains. This setup ensures that the movement's complications don't hog all the energy, maintaining impeccable timekeeping precision. But wait, there's more! This beauty features a tourbillon spinning on three axes and even packs a perpetual calendar. Talk about accuracy and elegance rolled into one stunning package!

Unlike last year, Rolex didn’t really have our hearts racing with their new releases. The much-anticipated ‘Coke-bezel’ was seen at its sister brand Tudor with the Black Bay 58 GMT, while Rolex wowed Deep Sea enthusiasts with a hefty all-gold version endowed with a blue dial ($52,100). As one of my friends said: “If you wear this while diving, you’ll definitely hit the deep sea”. Built to withstand pressures up to 12,800 feet underwater, it’s a technical feast for sure!

Talking of colorful watches, 2024 will be another year ruled by blue and green dials. We saw plenty at Vacheron Constantin (with the new Overseas model),  the Rolex 1908 with an incredible ice blue guilloché dial, Hublot’s Big Bang Water Blue Sapphire, Moser’s Concept Lime Green, Cartier’s Santos Dumont in olive green and peacock blue, and the “Genbi Valley” — the only Grand Seiko 2024 release made from Ever-Brilliant Steel.

One of the stunning blues from Patek Philippe this year,  the Reference 5330, features a clever twist – a corresponding date display synced to your chosen home city at 12 o'clock. One doesn’t need to  set the date here, as it adjusts automatically, even when you cross the international dateline. Now, that's some serious engineering magic! The strap is crafted from calfskin but treated to mimic the look of denim. At $76,590, some might opt for a different strap, but hey, to each their own. Our other favorite at Patek Philippe (though not blue), is the Golden Ellipse presented on the chain bracelet – a delightful nod to the funky vibes of the 1970s and a fresh take for Patek. 

Chanel has truly outdone itself in the realm of mechanical watchmaking this year, and we were absolutely captivated by their ingenuity. Led by the visionary Frédéric Grangié, Chanel seems to be upping their game with each passing year. What caught my eye was their playful twist on timepieces – like their tape measure-inspired watch that playfully nods to Bulgari's Serpenti or Tubogas, but with Chanel's own Rue Cambon flair. And let's not forget the delightful Couture O'Clock automaton, featuring a charming Coco Chanel marionette that springs to life at the push of a button. It's a perfect example of how haute horlogerie can be both sophisticated and fun!

Last but not least, here’s what impressed us the most: 

Our Favorite Five

Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Petite Seconde

This year, Parmigiani is shining the spotlight on its Toric line with some exquisite metal and color combinations, including a platinum-cased beauty with a stunning gray celadon dial. At first glance, this timepiece radiates contemporary chic and minimalist elegance, both in its design and color palette. But don't let its subtlety fool you – there's a world of craftsmanship nestled within its sleek frame. Crafted entirely from either 18k white or rose gold, the dial's appearance resembles luxurious fabric, achieved through meticulous hand-graining and delicate application of a special paste. This meticulous process results in a texture of exceptional fineness, creating a soft, tactile surface.

But that's not all – the dials aren't flat; they're "chevé," a traditional technique used to shape glass. When applied to these dials, it creates edges that gracefully drop down to rest against the inner walls of the case, adding an extra touch of sophistication. Powering this masterpiece is the manual winding Caliber PF780 movement, operating at 4Hz and boasting a generous 60-hour power reserve. And to ensure that this stunning movement can be admired in all its glory, Parmigiani's team opted for a sapphire crystal caseback and a pin buckle strap, allowing aficionados to appreciate every intricate detail with ease.

H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton Double Hairspring

The second skeletonized watch from the Moser in two years, but a first for the Streamliner, this one is ready to win any challenge in the skeleton watch category. Boasting a 40mm case (perfect size, right?) that's a mere 12.1mm thick, the watch unveils an entirely skeletonized dial and movement. It's a sight to behold – a skeleton with remarkable legibility and a hint of steampunk charm. A captivating see-through masterpiece, the watch draws one’s focus to two key elements on the dial — the tourbillon at 6 o'clock and the mainspring above. Crafted with fine aesthetics in mind, the double hairspring, flying tourbillon features two swan necks and a constantly rotating balance bridge – a mesmerizing spectacle, as seen in previous Streamliner models.

To maintain visual harmony, the mainspring is fully exposed, its barrel stripped down to the essentials. Not only does this carry the movement's visual theme forward, but it also provides a glimpse of the spring's unwinding, serving as a unique power reserve indicator.

This watch is more than just a timepiece – it's an experience that demands to be witnessed in person. Get ready to have your breath taken away!

Cartier Rewind

As always, Cartier dazzled us with a range of stunning new timepieces but one that caught our eye was the "Rewind" – a limited-edition Santos-Dumont where time ticks counterclockwise. It might sound a bit quirky at first, but trust me, it's a lot of fun. What sets the "Rewind" apart is its playful twist on tradition – the Roman markers are inverted, creating a unique countdown effect from 11 to one as you glance clockwise at the dial. Take a peek at the renders, and you'll notice the watch reading 10:10, with only the hands flipped. Even the movement itself follows suit, as the manual-winding 230MC boasts an inverted mechanism that winds... well, backward. Now that's what I call turning time on its head! And you never know, this could easily become a coveted collector's item, much like the iconic Cartier Crash.

Piaget Altiplano Concept Tourbillon

An engineering marvel boasting a jaw-dropping thickness of just 2mm – just as the original Altiplano from 2018 — this ultra-thin wonder is now equipped with a tourbillon, securing its place as the world's thinnest tourbillon timepiece. Sporting a striking cobalt blue case treated with blue PVD, measuring a sleek 41.5x2mm, the new Piaget AUC is a sight to behold. Powering this exceptional timepiece is theCaliber 970P-UC,  featuring a one-minute peripheral tourbillon and a 40-hour power reserve.

Piaget redesigned 90 percent of the movement to accommodate the tourbillon, necessitating 25 percent more power from the mainspring. This achievement snatches the title of the world's thinnest tourbillon from the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Tourbillon, which, at 3.95mm, suddenly seems a bit chunky in comparison.

In a clever design move, the movement's components are seamlessly integrated into the caseback. The tourbillon gracefully rotates at 10 o'clock, while the exposed mainspring barrel takes center stage at 6 o'clock. Utilizing ball bearings instead of pivots for rotation, Piaget has also created a sapphire opening in the caseback, allowing aficionados to marvel at the tourbillon's mesmerizing motion. While Chronode developed the movements for the Arceau L’Heure De La Lune and Le Temps Voyageur Dual Time Zone, the caliber within the Arceau Duc Attelé has been crafted by Le Cercle des Horlogers, known for some of the most daring and innovative timepieces in recent years.

Vacheron Constantin Égérie – The Pleats of Time

Vacheron Constantin unveiled the world’s first perfume concept watch at Watches and Wonders 2024– Égérie – The Pleats of Time, this unique timepiece is the result of a collaboration between the Swiss luxury watch and clock manufacturer, Parisian couturier Yiqing Yin, and master perfumer Dominique Ropion. Yiqing Yin has designed a lilac strap adorned with a delicate pleat pattern and intricate embroidery, which is infused with a bespoke fragrance crafted by Ropion. The fragrance emanates subtly with notes of lavender and orange blossom as the strap gently brushes against the wearer’s wrist.