Patek Phillipe Aquanaut ‘Tiffany’ Ref. 5167A vs Ref. 5968A
A head-to-head between two of Patek Philippe's sportiest timepieces, with a little sprinkle of something special. Let's explore and see what makes them so unique
An Icon Worthy of the Title
Within the watch industry, it is easy for a watch to be brandished as an 'icon' these days – it is a label associated with nearly every watch design that has shown up at auctions and is commonly seen on Instagram. But all the puffery aside, there are some truly iconic timepieces that escape the needless exaggeration and exist as true market titans, and one of those watches is the Patek Phillipe Aquanaut.
Released in 1997, the Aquanaut took the Nautilus’ sporty design and updated it in such a way as to boost its performance and style while continuing to deliver Patek Philippe's feverishly high standards of watchmaking and technical prowess. Sporting a new tropical rubber strap, a softened octagonal bezel and an interestingly textured dial, the Aquanaut’s life as the Nautilus’ 'mini-me' seems somewhat charming as we look back through the lens of hindsight. However, instead of acting like the Nautilus’ little brother, the Aquanaut has proven itself as a dependable watch that's capable of doing anything its wearer wants.
Following a somewhat troubled introduction to the market due to just how much of a maverick it was amongst Patek’s line-up then, the Aquanaut has gone on to win the favour of collectors worldwide. In fact, I would argue that the modern Aquanaut, which was released in 2007 with the launch of the ref. 5167A, has taken the Aquanaut’s role within Patek’s line-up and developed upon it splendidly. The mark of a true icon, the Aquanaut has not succumbed to the pressure of its critics. Instead, it marches on with an unwavering confidence and swagger. As a result, we can now celebrate these two stunning Aquanaut variants, the ref. 5167A and the 5968A.
Design Details
The Aquanaut has always been easily recognisable thanks to its rather unique case, and the References 5167A and 5968A are both splendid examples of its rounded octagonal shape. With the Ref. 5167A standing as the ‘original,’ per se, due to its time-only functionality, it provides the tangible link to the first Aquanaut, the Ref. 5060A. Made of steel like its predecessor, the 5167A features an increased diameter of 40.8mm – a rather notable increase of 5.2mm. In sync with contemporary standards, the Ref. 5167A marked the beginning of the Aquanaut’s journey in modern watchmaking.
The chronograph variant, the Ref. 5968A, features the same 42.2mm case that was introduced in 2017 when Patek debuted the Advanced Research limited edition Aquanaut variant. Building on that new case size, Patek Philippe launched the Ref. 5968A in 2018 and further modernised the collection. With its case slightly restructured to fit in the chronograph pushers at 2 and 4 o’clock, the Ref. 5968A’s case was perhaps the most significant departure from the Ref. 5167A that the Aquanaut collection had seen in a while.
Perhaps the Aquanaut’s most-obvious design element is its rubber strap. The first ever Patek to be offered on a rubber strap, the Aquanaut was initially condemned by purists since rubber was considered an entry-level material at the time. However, thanks to the Aquanaut, today rubber has earned its place amongst the handful of accepted strap materials in high watchmaking. With its ribbed texture matching the Aquanaut’s dial engraving, the rubber strap provides an aesthetic cohesion alongside its integrated curved-end fit, echoing the style of the integrated bracelet found on the Nautilus – a remnant of its design influence, perhaps. While the Ref. 5167A and Ref. 5968A are both primarily offered on a black strap to match their black dial, the Ref. 5968A is also sold with an orange strap which you can see on our example here.
The Dial
As mentioned, both Aquanaut variants that we are discussing today feature black dials but that is a rather obvious description. While the Ref. 5167A has a black embossed dial with applied luminescent Arabic numerals, it also harbours a bit of a secret – Tiffany & Co.’s iconic branding. Retailed by the legendary American jeweller, these co-signed watches are incredibly sought-after for their rarity, status as monuments to Patek's and Tiffany's 170-year old partnership, and visual distinction. While the 6 o’clock inscription might only be small, it packs a very valuable punch for today’s collectors, who desire something very few people will ever see in the flesh.
Likewise, the Ref. 5968A also sports the very same Tiffany & Co. inscription but due to the placement of its 60-minute chronograph subdial at 6 o'clock, it is found directly underneath Patek’s branding at 12 o’clock. Apart from this subtle difference, the Ref. 5968A also features an orange central seconds hand as against the white of the Ref. 5167A, and a matching orange subdial hand that is all tied together via the orange second markings found in the chronograph subdial and along the chapter ring in groups of three seconds.
The Movements
As one would imagine, both the Ref. 5167A and the Ref. 5968A are fitted with entirely different movements in keeping with their different functions. Unchanged since its 2007 introduction, the Ref. 5167A features Patek’s in-house automatic Cal. 324 SC, which is displayed behind an exhibition caseback to showcase the lengths Patek Philippe have gone to ensure their movements look as stunning as the other design essentials. In the same vein, the Ref. 5968A features the beautifully finished automatic flyback chronograph Cal. 28-520 C movement, which is also displayed behind an exhibition caseback. While their 35-45 hour power reserves are kind of average, both movements feature Patek’s splendid Gyromax and Spiromax technologies to ensure their balance and balance spring are, respectively, up to any task you might throw at them.
Final Words
I’m often torn while trying to decide on the watch that I would personally prefer whenever I write a piece for our Side by Side series but I must say, the Ref. 5968A gets my vote quite easily here. I do love the Ref. 5167A, don’t get me wrong – it forged the path for the Aquanaut’s success and without it, the Ref. 5968A would be nothing, but the Ref. 5968A suits my style better and is just more appealing, at least in my opinion.
While it might not be understated, its 11.9 mm case is perfect for me. It is nearly 50 per cent thicker than its counterpart, yet I find it elegant. Combined with its prominent pushers, two-tone dial and the choice of a bold orange strap - the Ref. 5968A enjoys a more vivacious design language as compared to the dulcet aesthetic of its predecessor, and I love it. Combined with Patek’s signature ‘if you know you know’ Tiffany & Co. inscription just underneath the company's own branding, the Tiffany & Co. double-signed Ref. 5968A is easily one of Patek Philippe's finest watches and easily one of my favourites from the Genevan Giants.
Specifications
Patek Philippe Aquanaut
Reference number: 5167A
Case size: 40.8mm
Thickness: 8.1mm
Material: Stainless steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water-resistance: Up to 120m
Movement: Cal. 324 SC
Functions: Hours, minutes, date, sweep seconds
Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 35 hours
Patek Philippe Aquanaut
Reference number: 5968A
Case size: 42.2 mm
Thickness: 11.9 mm
Material: Stainless steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water-resistance: Up to 120m
Movement: Cal. CH28‑520 C
Functions: Hours, minutes, date, flyback chronograph, central chronograph hand, 60-minute counter
Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 45 hours
