Why the Tank Louis Cartier is the Most Versatile Watch for Fashion Lovers

One of my favorite watch quotes is something I stumbled upon by chance – @misterenthusiast said that there’s “no such thing as a dress watch anymore,” which is a blissfully simple statement, but loaded with such resonance and truth. This line has stuck with me because if there is one way to describe my style preferences, it would be duality. I love the idea of balancing two ideals: old and new, luxury and essentials. To me, the polarity of styling a dress watch with a T-shirt and jeans is peak dualism and honestly, the ultimate representation of a person in the know.

When it comes to bringing this aesthetic to life, there is perhaps no greater specimen than the Tank Louis Cartier. Full disclosure: I am a Cartier stan myself, a passion that has bloomed in recent years thanks to a deep dive into the world of vintage Cartiers. So you might say that I hold a bit of a bias but hey, can you actually rebut the claim that I’m making here? I didn’t think so. Yes, Cartier watches are going through a renaissance of sorts at the moment (I’ll touch more on this later), with collectors and new admirers alike flocking to get their hands on the heritage brand’s horological creations, but there’s a good reason why.

There is a wealth of literature out there that can do a much better job at explaining Cartier’s lush history than I can but for a snapshot, all you need to know is that Cartier is known for its silhouettes (there’s a reason why they’re colloquially referred to as the “King of Shapes”), the Cartier Tank’s versatility is rivaled only by Gary Oldman’s acting prowess, and lastly, if you’re a fashion lover, the enduring Tank Louis Cartier deserves to be a mainstay in your wardrobe.

Versatility

By definition, dress watches are typically paired with formal wear. They are known for their simple, minimalist designs that radiate elegance and timelessness. Although not always the case, they are often expected to be worn with a leather strap and are smaller in terms of both thickness and diameter – they are, after all, intended to fit underneath the cuff of a dress shirt. In recent years, not only are traditional notions of how a dress watch should be worn becoming outdated, but the Tank Louis Cartier is seeping into corners of fashion in an unprecedented way.

Musician Tyler, The Creator is regularly seen pairing his sprawling collection of Cartier “dress watches” with leopard print shirts, vibrant sweater vests, brightly colored cardigans or even just a simple white tee. Saltburn actor Jacob Elordi was lensed late last year in a flamboyant pink blouse, paired with a Cartier Tank for GQ. And yes, I know that Paul Mescal is a Cartier ambassador, but you can’t deny that that man knows how to wear a Cartier on a red carpet. I am still thinking about his Cartier Tank Chinoise moment (not technically a Tank Louis, but definitely adjacent) on the Cannes red carpet back in 2022.

The thing that I love most about these Tank moments is that it turns typical notions of how a dress watch should be worn on its head. The Tank Louis Cartier is no longer just a watch that you wear on special occasions – weddings, black tie evenings, Gossip Girl masquerade balls on the Upper East Side – but is now instead largely considered to be a daily watch that can pair with your favorite pair of chinos, with tennis shoes or loafers, or the black tee you’ve worn three days in a row. A crucial shift in the overall perception of a watch’s “appropriateness” for specific occasions has led to previous assumptions becoming all but moot. Unsurprisingly, classic models of dress watches have in turn essentially become a daily watch and it is truly unnerving, I tell you, how versatile a classic Tank Louis Cartier can be. If you’re still looking to get inspired by style cues, consider Killing Eve’s Jodie Comer wearing hers with an oversized poplin shirt and baggy trousers, or Jake Bongiovi wearing his with a boxy white tee, dark denim and baseball cap – a very ‘90s David Beckham look, indeed.

Although the Tank may have at one point been a watch only recognized by a select few, its recent ubiquity has yielded a reputation much more widespread than even a mere five years ago. In a sense, owning a Tank Louis Cartier is a powerful statement on its own, letting the watch speak for itself and serving as a reflection of the wearer’s status as a purveyor of good taste. If you’ve seen Paul Mescal’s Gucci Horsebit 1953 Loafer campaign, that right there is quintessential styling for the Tank Louis Cartier: fitted white tee, cropped trousers and loafers (worn with or without white socks – honestly, you can’t really go wrong with this). Any variation of this outfit is the pinnacle of casual chic class, an eternal uniform that will never go out of style, which leads to a very important ponder about timelessness. 

Timeless Investment

The Tank Louis Cartier is not only a sound investment piece, but one that will never go out of style. Having worked at a major streetwear media platform for most of my career, I’ve definitely seen my fair share of trends. However, as I’ve progressed through the years (this is a nice way of saying “as I’ve gotten older”), I’ve come to appreciate the lasting impact of purchasing high quality, investment pieces that I can wear for many years rather than trend-based buys that have an expiry date. This, of course, also includes timepieces. The Cartier Tank has a robust track record, making its way onto the wrists of icons that range from Muhammed Ali to Andy Warhol. The Tank Louis Cartier, specifically, ages better than fine wine and is a watch that you can wear for decades or even pass down to future generations.

The sentiment that “Cartier is having a moment right now” is true to a degree but to be accurate, Cartier has been having a moment for decades. The heritage imprint has been producing watches worn by trailblazers and even royalty well beyond any millennial pop culture moments. The legacy of Cartier precedes itself and when you wear a Tank Louis Cartier – whether it be to Fashion Week or on a weekend grocery run to Erewhon – it’s going to prompt nods of approval, no matter what. Seeing the watch paired with casual looks is an even bigger flex because it manifests the dichotomy of a dress watch worn “out of context.” For someone who loves duality, there is no greater homage to the altar of duplexity. 

Now, on the topic of investment: the Tank Louis Cartier is no pocket change purchase. Depending on the size of the model, whether you’re acquiring a quartz or mechanical piece, the price can range from $10,200 USD to upwards of $24,000 USD for a brand new watch. However, if you’re looking to get your first watch and are maybe a bit intimidated by the price of a brand new Tank Louis Cartier, there are many other options for you to consider – the first being: buy vintage or used.

There are so many unique variations of the Cartier Tank that are treasures in themselves and that perhaps hold even greater appeal than brand new models of the timepiece. With a sprawling array of different dial colors and straps, the diversity of Cartier Tanks is virtually endless and can fit to any personality and style. 

The second thing to bear in mind is that there are many other options within the Tank family beyond the Tank Louis that are very similar in aesthetic. One of my own favorite watches is a hand-wound, mechanical vintage Must de Cartier with a gold-plated case and a beautiful blue lacquer dial. My favorite ways to style it are with chunky knitwear, trousers and for the winter season, my UGG Tasman slippers in black (I am well beyond wearing UGGs ironically). The sartorial fluidity of the watch (also seen in this Tank Must 22) makes it one of the favorites in my rotation, worn to impromptu Wednesday night dinner with friends or even to more formal cocktail-attire work events. If you’re more of a risk-taker or prefer to go with a design with a bit more of an edge, Cartier’s Must de Cartier Black Dial is definitely a model on my wishlist as well – literally nothing screams chic more than head-to-toe monochrome Rick Owens, finished off with this tonal black watch.

Now, I can probably keep talking about the merits of Cartier in a perennial rant but I will spare you. The last little tidbit that I want to share in this well-organized stream of consciousness is that when it comes to style, stick with what feels authentic to you. I may be a fan of neutral pieces and uniform capsule wardrobes, but that doesn’t necessarily ring true for everyone. The beauty of the Tank Louis Cartier is that it is mercurial in its sartorial appeal. It can be paired equally well with an extravagant outfit as it can with a minimalist one. You’re about to make your new Cartier Tank your whole personality and there is absolutely no shame in that.