Young, dynamic and exceptionally talented, the next-gen leaders of family-owned brands are bringing in a fresh perspective to horology with innovative products and digital marketing
Over the last few years, the Swiss watch industry has seen the rise of young and enterprising watchmakers and marketers, especially within some family-owned independent brands. In tune with the digital age, these change-makers have energized the space with novel ideas and a fresh outlook for the industry, which is gradually moving beyond brick and mortar stores to woo a new audience.
Right From Benjamin Arabov, who’s revolutionizing traditional marketing strategies with digital tools to Danièla Dufour, who rebelled against all odds and found her calling in watchmaking, we spoke to some of the most promising scions of the Swiss watch industry. The future of horology, for these next-gen leaders is not just about sleek, hi-tech watches but also an inclusive universe that allows a variety of talent to thrive.
Benjamin Arabov, CEO, Jacob & Co.
It’s been a year since Benjamin Arabov took over as the CEO of Jacob & Co. and the 29-year-old has already earned a spot in the Forbes ‘30 under 30’ list in 2021 for his work with Grow Enrollments — an education firm that helps connect people with online courses, training, and coding boot camps.
No stranger to the watch industry, Benjamin comes from one of the most well-known watch and jewelry families in the world. His father, Jacob Arabo aka ‘Jacob The Jeweller’ had a massive influence on hip hop culture thanks to patrons like Jay-Z, Pharrell Williams and Paris Hilton. All set to take his dad’s empire to the next level, Benjamin has been expanding the brand in the digital space. “The digital communication strategy I've set up and since executed is now a crucial and efficient driver of our growth, brand equity and desirability of products across the world,” he says. With over three million followers on Instagram, Jacob & Co is already amongst the top 10 brands in the watch industry.
Working alongside his father, Benjamin shares his thoughts on the learnings gained over the years, “it may seem obvious but I have a lot of admiration for my father — for what he has built from scratch, the brand equity he generated, the collections he came up with, the deals he made with Lionel Messi, Paramount Pictures, Bugatti, Cristiano Ronaldo and other celebrities. It's sometimes overlooked but Jacob & Co. is a success story. My father is very determined and creative. Anyone who meets him will tell you he's the warmest person, and very protective of our teams too.”
Benjamin is confident of securing a steady growth for his company with a stream of new products across segments — high complication, high jewelry and also both of those combined. “We are on a growth path that we've worked very hard to set. We've also gained a lot of traction from our partnership timepieces, such as the ones with Batman, Bugatti or The Godfather. The watches that come from these co-branding programs, especially the Bugatti Chiron and the Opera Godfather, are selling way beyond our initial expectations and our partners. We also are a very digital and agile company. We're light, we're relatively quick to react and we rely on our knowledge of digital communities to keep building and serving our own,” he says.
The watchmaking industry, being traditional in its nature, has only emerged from its shell in recent years and now that everyone is exposed to the existence of YouTube, Instagram and TikTok for business, there’s a dire need for brands to participate at all levels. According to Benjamin, his brand is not just restricted to the watchmaking industry as a benchmark. “We are looking at the entire global digital conversation, best practices and latest tools. That's helping us navigate beyond the confines of our sector. That being said, there's no denying that watchmaking has approached these tools with too much caution and even reluctance. But since we're a relatively young company and even more so for our high complication watchmaking collections, we don't have these doubts. We're completely free to operate and tap into this massive potential.”
Danièla Dufour, Watchmaker, Philippe Dufour
Danièla Dufour, daughter of Swiss watchmaker Philippe Dufour, has a passion for horology that stems from within. “When I was a little girl, I didn't even know watchmaking existed. As far as I can remember, I always wanted to be a ballet dancer, a singer, a teacher (would have been a terrible decision for me), an astronaut, a police officer or a doctor because my mother was a nurse.”
Everything changed for Danièla when she moved from Paris to Vallée de Joux. “I was curious while watching my father, as he spent a lot of time at his workshop. He transmitted the virus of watchmaking to me.” When Philippe Dufour found out that his daughter wanted to be a watchmaker, he dissuaded her and said “it was an old and lost job.”
Her journey into watchmaking didn't have a pleasant start. As an apprentice, she was disgusted by some people who judged her for being Dufour’s daughter and also with some comments around “racism, jealousy, male chauvinism”. “If I knew everything and was born with knowledge, I wouldn’t be going to a school! I was told I was clearly not meant to be a watchmaker, but rather to work in marketing. That I would have done better to be a model for bras because my chest was too big and that it was leaning against my establishment,” she says.
Determined and motivated to pursue watchmaking, Danièla struggled to convince her dad over two years and finally got herself a place at Audemars Piguet. “I plan to continue making watches with my father and if it’s possible forever, it will be the best. As long as my dad is around, he’ll pass on his knowledge to me.”
‘Philippe Dufour’ is a family business — while Danièla and Philippe work at the bench, Élisabeth, Danièla’s mother, handles the front lines of communication. “I like it because we trust each other easily and we know where we're going, together.”
Proud of her very first Simplicity, she says “I manufactured her during my watchmaking apprenticeship. Besides his values on hard work, strength and confidence, my dad also shared a bit of his vast knowledge with me while I was working on this piece. He said that the first watch I work on will be for him, so that pushed me a lot. My Simplicity is priceless to me because I learned from her — I was connected to my father and I understood a lot of things through her. I use “SHE” and not “IT” because this watch has a part of me and it's one of the reasons why I love watchmaking.”
For Danièla, every aspect of watchmaking is interesting. Without the different scopes, a watch would not be fully functional. “The beauty of it [watchmaking] is having a job where the days and the operations are always unique — we are constantly learning. Currently, I’m passionate about the art of watchmaking. There are artisans who sublimate every watch — enamellers, diamond dealers, guillocheurs, artisans, boîtiers, master upholsterers, engineers for new technologies and material. They showcase it all. We owe them a lot,” she says.
Frédéric Arnault, CEO, TAG Heuer
One of the most dynamic, young CEOs in the watch industry, Frédéric Arnault was introduced to TAG Heuer at the age of 12. His first-ever watch was an Aquaracer chronograph presented to him by his parents and that kind of got him hooked to the brand, which he is now heading. “I don't have 20 years of experience like other CEOs in the watch industry, even though I'm passionate about the industry and particularly about this brand. I don't have the burden of experience, which allows me to look at things with a fresh eye,” he said in an interview with Wristcheck's Founder & CEO, Austen Chu during Watches and Wonders 2022.
The son of one of the world’s richest men Bernard Arnault, Frédéric was only 25 years old when he took up the position, and since has taken the TAG brand to new heights. From the brand’s collaboration with 14-year-old British-Japanese professional skateboarder and surfer, Sky Brown and Nintendo’s Mario with Mario Kart limited edition chronographs, to entering the metaverse by accepting crypto as payments and the watch’s ability to display NFTs, Frédéric has been making big moves. “I remember we came up with the Mario (collaboration) idea during Baselworld. We needed to do something that leveraged the icons in the digital space with a digital watch, and Mario resonated well. It was a huge success. Of course, the TAG Heuer brand is very rich and diverse. We can have a vintage inspired icon that's been around for 50 years, such as the Monaco, and also something disruptive and animated like Super Mario exist together. This probably would not work with another brand in the watch industry,” he said.
Frédéric is not the only young Arnault heading an LVMH brand. His other siblings are also at prominent positions within the LVMH empire. While Antoine Arnault is the CEO of Berluti, Alexandre Arnault is the EVP of Tiffany & Co., Jean Arnault, the CEO of Louis Vuitton watches and Delphine Arnault, director and executive vice president of Louis Vuitton. Together they are leading one of the most successful luxury conglomerates into the digital space with new communication channels and marketing initiatives. “I want to talk to the younger generation. Many people tell me TAG Heuer got them into watches. It was the first step and we need to keep the brand relevant in the years to come,” he said.
Pierre Biver, Co-founder, JC Biver
Industry veteran, Jean-Claude Biver, stepped down from his role as the head of the LVMH Watch Division in September 2018, and launched JC Biver watches along with his youngest son, Pierre Biver, earlier this year.
Having made his way into the world of horology at a young age, Pierre Biver is definitely one to keep an eye out for. Brimming with ideas, he is currently working on a minute repeater for the brand. “I would say all areas of watchmaking are of interest to me, especially because we are launching a new brand. Nevertheless, if I had to stress on a particular area, I would say manufacturing and conception. The industry can count on amazing people, with huge experience and knowledge. If only we could shine the light on the craftsmanship we have here in Switzerland, you would be surprised how much more there is to discover,” he says.
According to Pierre, the industry has seen a plethora of milestones in the last five years. “We now have that catalyst of attention, clients and recognition. It’s pretty hard to say what will happen, but if the big actors of this sector play the right cards, we are set for a growing industry which will lead to many innovations and novelties in all price segments. The only downside is that we, as an industry, have to manage the turbulence that occurs with such expansive growth and not fear too much. It is a whole ecosystem and we have to protect it, from suppliers to retailers.”
Pierre attended a university in Lausanne but didn’t complete his graduation. He started working for Phillips in London and got hooked on watches. “ Suddenly, I remembered many things from my upbringing and it helped me a lot. It was not too difficult, as the company and team were amazing, but I have to admit, it took some time to adapt to another sector of this industry that I knew very little about. It was also a learning curve to understand how I should handle the family name and everything that comes with it.”
Working with his legendary father is truly a privilege, he says. “I have a lot to learn from him, so does the whole team, to whom he is always there to help. He has always been on the forefront of innovation and I understand why, despite his experience and knowledge, he always listens and takes opinions into consideration.”
Venla Voutilainen, After Sales Service, Urban Jürgensen
Anyone who’s into watches ought to know Kari Voutilainen, and his daughter, Venla, is no exception. Her passion for watchmaking began at the tender age of 15. After attending a career exhibition called “Capacité,” and trying her hand at watchmaking, she was adamant about beginning her career in the watch industry.
“I did an apprenticeship at Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier for four years. I had to learn theory once or twice a week and then I would go to the workshop to practice. My passion for watchmaking was a choice of mine because when I was young, for me, my dad went to work. I was not thinking of being a watchmaker until I experienced it during the exhibition. I think it’s best to not have any pressure because then I can work passionately and it’s a pleasure to do my work.”
Fast forward to Only Watch 2019, Kari Voutilainen and Venla Voutilainen created quite a buzz amongst the Indies, as they unveiled the 42mm Voutilainen TP1 Only Watch 2019. “This was our first collaboration together, I was and still am proud that I was able to work on the TP1 while also studying for my final exams.”
Venla also spent around two years in Singapore working with The Hour Glass. Currently leading the After Sales for Urban Jürgensen, she works very closely with father, who’s the brand’s CEO. “I'm hoping Urban Jürgensen will return to his rightful place. It has a rich history and people have forgotten about it.” The brand’s origins date all the way back to 1773. For the time being, Venla is overseeing Urban Jürgensen's after-sales and the brand is not working on any new pieces. “Next year, we will launch new models to commemorate the 250th anniversary. For now, we just service and take care of previous models after they have been sold.”
Victoire Halter, Jeweler, Finisseur & Atelier Manager, Vianney Halter
Crazy about stones and the jewelry aspect of watchmaking, as a child, Victoire Halter would spend a lot of her time hanging around at the THA workshop (Techniques Horlogères Appliquées). Her mother was a gemologist, while Vianney and Denis Flageollet were watchmakers working together at THA, developing jewelry clocks for brands such as Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels.
“My favorite place there was the safe, which was as big as a room! I could spend hours there, watching the pieces they were working on. THA workshop is also the place where I got familiar with my first tools. At that time, models/first drafts used to be larger scales (5-20) times bigger than the final pieces) in Plexiglas, and I was spending my spare time filing down the gears of the mechanisms.”
In order to understand and to live it in her flesh, she decided to make her own experiences in Paris, far from her father’s universe and from her hometown. “Thanks to these professional experiences, I realized I need diversity in my work. I also understood that I need my life and my work to be intertwined, as my work is my passion. That’s the reason why working with Vianney is so easy,” she says.
While Vianney is dedicated to the technical and mechanical aspects of the brand, Victoire’s focus is set on the aesthetics. “As I am not a watchmaker, I mostly take part in the aesthetic aspects — from sharing my point of view during product development, to the finishing steps for spare parts, I oversee things corresponding to my skills. I also support Vianney with various tasks, in order to make his work more fluid within the different layers of an independent watchmaker’s daily work,” she says. Her favorite piece from her father’s work has always been the “Contemporaine Moon Phase."
