The LVMH watch brands descend on Miami to showcase their latest. Here are our picks, from TAG Heuer, Bulgari, Hublot and Zenith
It's been an interesting start to 2024 for LVMH group watch brands, as a long-rumored leadership shuffle saw former TAG Heuer CEO Frédéric Arnault step up as CEO of LVMH Watches, with former Zenith CEO Julien Tornare taking over at TAG Heuer, and Benoit de Clerck taking over at Zenith. Ricardo Guadalupe stays put at Hublot. This reshuffle is mostly good news for LVMH, as Arnault and Tornare are widely regarded as having done great work at TAG Heuer and Zenith, respectively, so this step up should allow them to spread their corporate leadership wings in a big way.
Of course, none of this will have too much of an impact on the watches showcased at LVMH Watch Week — the group's traveling roadshow that allows them to get the jump on the Watches & Wonders release rush. This year, Miami is playing host, and all the brands have brought something special to town
TAG Heuer Brings Back The “Vintage” Dato
TAG Heuer is continuing their hard-earned momentum with additions to the Aquaracer Solargraph, as well as a new green version of their connected watch, and a continued commitment to lab-grown diamonds with a Carrera Date Plasma laden with yellow lab-grown stones. For many, though, the most exciting release is the Carrera Chronograph Dato. Based on last year's new Carrera design, this 39mm model is inspired by the 1968 Carrera 45 Dato, famous for its stark dial, single chronograph register and date-at-nine design. In 2021, Hodinkee teamed up with TAG Heuer to bring the Dato into the modern era, but in a very limited capacity.
Now, though, some 56 years after it was created, the Dato is back as a regular part of the TAG Heuer catalog, and it's a strikingly simple design. Chronographs are characterized by their busy dial designs, so it's counterintuitive to see one with such a sparse — yet stunning — dial. The vibrant teal green color is accentuated by the circular brushed finish, which is dynamic, and goes to show just how versatile the Carrera platform can be.
Bulgari Bulgari Gets Smaller, Sleeker
Meanwhile, at Bulgari, there's a fresh batch of Octo Finissimo automatics, with a yellow gold option that comes with a deep blue dial, as well as a steel version with a 'Tuscan copper' dial. The feminine Lucea line celebrates its 10th birthday in style, with new versions with mother-of-pearl Intarsia dials and a particularly stunning model with a malachite marquetry dial. The big story is the latest Bulgari Bulgari. The clean design, with its branded bezel, is now offered in a 38mm case, powered by the slender BVL 191 movement and cased in either yellow or rose gold. If you're looking for something smaller, there are also some 26mm models. It's no surprise that this iconic watch from the 80s and 90s is starting to gain traction, as they're an undeniable vibe.
Zenith Introduces Two Dashing Editions For Chronomaster
Zenith continues to iterate on the Chronomaster Sport, but the star of their show is, without doubt, the Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar. Offered in not one, not two, but three different dials (silver opaline, slate opaline and olive green sunray), and options on bracelet or leather. Inspired by a small run of prototypes produced in 1970, the new Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar measures 38mm in steel and is powered by a brand new El Primero variant, packed with utility. In addition to the column-wheel chronograph and the date (in a nice touch, the date wheel is color-matched to the dial), there are day and month displays at 10 and two, respectively, as well as a moon phase nested in the register at six. While you might argue that this level of functionality is over the top for a sports chronograph, you can't deny that this new Zenith looks absolutely stunning.
Hublot Heavyweight MP-10 Now With A Roller Display
Finally, Hublot is a brand that feels very at home in colorful Miami, and they've got the watches to prove it. There's a new take on their chemically impressive SAXEM material — now in vivid green. There are also some high jewelry takes on the 32mm Spirit of Big Bang with rainbow settings as well as full pavé. The technical MP-10 is always a highlight, and this year is no different. This limited edition in titanium features a linear winding system, a roller display and a tourbillon inclined at 35 degrees. Finally, Hublot continues its partnership with sculptor Richard Orlinski, showing off two new Classic Fusion Tourbillon Orlinski models in polished yellow or sky blue ceramic. The yellow model looks especially good, thanks to the high contrast afforded by the blacked-out bridges on the open-worked movement.
So there you have it, the first — but certainly not the last — taste of 2024 from the LVMH watch group brands.
